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Hi-Performance and Sailplanes RC hotliners, electric pylon racers, F5B, F5D, sailplanes and gliders

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Old 10-07-2012, 08:08 PM   #76
Frans Bal
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Yes, the kevlar on the horizontal stabilizer has more than one function.
-1- ads strength to the joint of the block and stabilizer
-2- ads strength to the joint boom / block
-3- counteracts splitting of the boom at the control line tube hole

I see now that the woodgrain of the block you have used is running parallel to the boom, the grain should have been perpendicular. With the grain parallel the block isn't as strong as grain perpendicular. The kevlar will eradicate this little error.

For some one who is planning a long build you are going at lightning speed.
Looks good.

Frans
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:07 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Frans Bal View Post
Yes, the kevlar on the horizontal stabilizer has more than one function.
-1- ads strength to the joint of the block and stabilizer
-2- ads strength to the joint boom / block
-3- counteracts splitting of the boom at the control line tube hole

I see now that the woodgrain of the block you have used is running parallel to the boom, the grain should have been perpendicular. With the grain parallel the block isn't as strong as grain perpendicular. The kevlar will eradicate this little error.

For some one who is planning a long build you are going at lightning speed.
Looks good.

Frans
Thanks. Building will slow down again some... Yes, I now see that on the plans which show the horizontal stabilizer wood block grain perpendicular to the CF tube. I'm going to build a little more, post some photos in the next couple of days.
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Old 10-11-2012, 01:02 AM   #78
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Default wing fiberglas panel joints and epoxy the throwing blade

Previously, I used Minwax polycrylic to fiberglas the wing panel joins - I wrapped the fiberglas partly around the ribs as shown. Enclosed circles are where fiberglas was applied.

First, two thin coats of polyurethane were applied, then a thin coat of Minwax which was allow to dry to sticky, then the fiberglas was applied, allowed to dry, touched up, cut and free edges sanded - not shown.

Throwing blade -
wanted
front view 4-5 degrees off vertical, bottom out from vertical by 4-5 degrees but I ended up too far off vertical. Good thing this is my practice wing.

side view - bottom slight forward - looks ok

top view - angled as in plans and ended up ok

Frans files down a thicker CF flat (2mm CF sheet) for a much prettier throwing blade. Mine needed much more work, but is smooth where it counts - functional but not pretty.

Remember - I glued the side wing panels on this wing at double the correct angle - oops. The eagle-eyed will note that the blade photos with a blue background - the last four photos - are post wing covering - I'll post the wing covering photos in a few days.


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Old 10-17-2012, 10:26 AM   #79
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Hey Knot,

Looking good brother. A note about sailplanes (especially DLGs) and weight. To balance, it's FAR better to REMOVE material than to add weight.

You'll do well to remove the wing balance weights and start looking for material to remove from the other tip.

I'll be doing a regular and 120% MiMi soon. Got all the materials just waiting.

P.S. - Also, got this PDF from RCG; it's the complete wing layout (Built-up version) so no need for left-right flipping.


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Old 10-19-2012, 03:35 PM   #80
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Thanks, Chief! If you take any build photos, post them here or please add a link to where-ever your photos are posted. I downloaded your pdf. Great byline!!

Thanks for the guidance on losing weight. I'm using this current wing as a practice build wing, so forward press only, no retreat! Next wing, I'll use a lot less weight attaching the throwing blade.
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:51 PM   #81
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Default Covering the wing with 1.5mil laminate

Wing bottom - convex wing panel joints.
This was my first time covering anything. Using the wasteful method.
Here's how I did it - (link to a pldaniels.com video)

1.5 mil laminate - apply adhesive (matte, cloudy) side down
test with a small piece to be sure the adhesive side is down
pre cut hole for the throwing blade

**If there are any convex wing panel joints, slit the free laminate to the trailing or leading edge - see top covering post.**

tack all the edges down with the monokote iron (I used a setting of 2.5), or your regular iron - Center to outer edge

use the heat gun (or your shirt iron above the laminate) center to outer edge also. Leave the excess on until the top is covered.

Note - the laminate will turn from cloudy to more clear where-ever heat activated. The photos are in order of events, most likely


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Old 10-20-2012, 10:02 AM   #82
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Lightbulb Optima 6 lightweight modification

Originally Posted by aeroknot View Post
Thanks, Chief! If you take any build photos, post them here or please add a link to where-ever your photos are posted. I downloaded your pdf. Great byline!!

Thanks for the guidance on losing weight. I'm using this current wing as a practice build wing, so forward press only, no retreat! Next wing, I'll use a lot less weight attaching the throwing blade.

"No retreat!" ... I like that attitude! I'm gonna be doing the built up wing with carbon spars, because I like doing things the hard way.

As a side note, I fly with Hitec 2.4 gear. Aurora 9 for Tx but want one major feature the 'Minima' receivers lack; Voltage Telemetry (VT).

Honestly, I can't think of a more fitting use for VT than on a DLG with small batteries. It beeps when a cutoff voltage is reached, thus saving one from killing a plane.

However, the smallest Hitec Rx with VT is the Optima 6, which stock, weighs in at a porky 14 grams.

So, I modded one with a *paper/tape cover and made a smaller antenna. Optima 6 now weighs 7 grams, exactly half of stock. Not bad for a full-range Rx with VT capability...

*(The cover is wrapped around the Rx board which is covered in double-sided servo tape.)


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USMC 96-01 - Corporal - 6172
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:05 PM   #83
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Nice weight on the Optima 6 receiver and good photos. I'll probably use a trashy spektrum hk compatible parkflyer receiver until I build a new wing (with the correct angles) and after practicing with the current wing - this'll be the first dlg I've seen or thrown or flown. I have a DX7 spektrum transmitter, and am not sure which receiver I'll eventually buy. Plan on ending up with LiFe A123 2s battery pack, no voltage regulator.

I did spill a "little" epoxy on the fuselage floor when installing the CF fuselage tube, maybe one or two grams and so I'll remove that. That's the only excess weight on the fuselage and tail, I think. Tried to be extra careful further back.

Looking forward to seeing your built up wings!
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:30 PM   #84
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Default Covering the wing top - concave angles

Covering the wing top with the laminate is the same as the wing bottom, except slits need to made through the free laminate to the trailing edge and leading edge at the obtuse angles where the wing panels join (lines on the photo). For confusing terminology, I just learned that an angle greater than 180 is called a reflex angle! (http://www.mathsisfun.com/angles.html) I cut the slits just through the free excess laminate and not the wing proper.

Before starting the wing top, I removed the excess laminate from applying the laminate to the wing bottom and then ran the heating iron over the trimmed edges.

For the top -
First, all the edges were tacked down from center to out.
The troughs where the wing panels join also count as edges for the obtuse angles. If you don't cut the slits, when you apply the heat gun or iron, the free edges will likely pull the laminate cover away from the wing (source: personal experience).

I ran the laminate at the leading edge a little 1mm to the bottom.
On the trailing edge, I covered the trailing edge.
Then apply the heat gun, working from center out.
Run the heat iron over anything that may need it, may be nothing.
Trim the excess.
Run the heat iron over the edges.

The whole covering process is very quick start to finish.
The wing bottom was no problem. The wing top, I removed the first try after applying the heat gun, and no problem when I cut the slits through the free laminate.

edit - I ironed any wrinkles out!


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Old 10-21-2012, 04:23 PM   #85
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Default decorating the wing top

decorating the wing top


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Old 10-21-2012, 06:35 PM   #86
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Default wing bottom decor

wing bottom decor

Extra credit to whomever names the song before the flight video (a while away).


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Old 10-22-2012, 12:20 PM   #87
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Morning has Broken
Cat Stevens
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:24 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by kaindub View Post
Morning has Broken
Cat Stevens
Awesome! Great naming the song!! I'm really happy you named it. (Extra credit was an official 'thanks'! )

I was learning this song and looking up a lead sheet for it - ran across a video of Rick Wakeman telling the story of working on the song with Cat Stevens - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLO-zuV4LrQ - starts at 1:39 in the video.

Here is an awesome live video of Rick Wakeman playing his full piano version -Rick Wakeman piano live - 2011

And here is Cat Stevens 1976 in Germany with Morning Has Broken - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP7Ry9MfkQU&feature=related
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:42 PM   #89
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Default Fuselage - pre fiberglass

Aft - thin kevlar - first photo

Sanded fuselage - yellow = Titebond II


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Old 10-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #90
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Default Fuselage - fiberglassing 1

The first photo is to remind myself that I put about two thin coats of polycrylic everywhere - after spraying a thin solvent based acrylic. The sprayed acrylic was rough to touch, so I sanded it smooth first. A better way would been have to use a solvent based polyurethane and wiping it off with a cloth and applying several thin coats, but the end result was the same.

Fiberglassed same as before - a sticky coat of the polycrylic, then applying fiberglass specified in the bill of materials and applying the water based polycrylic. While applying the fiberglass to the nose, excess was trimmed - all the fiberglass photos posted are while applying the fiberglass. - Painters tape on the CF tube for protection.

Careful of plan details - the fiberglass is applied with the weave at 45 degrees (photo 2).


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Old 10-22-2012, 10:02 PM   #91
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Default Finishing the fiberglass

Cut the fiberglass and then sanded cut to edge, then reapplied the polycrylic to the edges.

edit - homemade sander 'popsicle' sander with the carpet tape.


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Old 10-22-2012, 10:23 PM   #92
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Default control horns

punch the hole for the control line in the control horn before cutting the control horn out - this will prevent the hole from slitting. - the grain direction is indicated on the plans.

temporarily tape the control surfaces - rudder and elevator - and line up the control horn with the tube for the control line (last photo)

epoxy is applied to the top and bottom of the control horn - the control horn sticks out slightly 'proud'


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Old 10-22-2012, 10:30 PM   #93
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Default spring hinges - forming

size 3 piano wire from howardindustries.com - very inexpensive.

bend easily - I used a hard surface and applied pressure to the fulcrum against another hard surface, then touched up.

measurements written by me on printout of a photo from Frans' website.


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Old 10-22-2012, 10:42 PM   #94
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Default placing the spring hinges and tape hinging

placing the spring hinges and tape hinging -

temporarily tape the control surface straight, and use a straight pin for the holes. Don't insert the spring hinge second leg in - remove the spring hinge.

Tape the elevator top full length (elevator in down position)
Tape the elevator bottom partial length (elevator in the up position)

The photographed tape also works quite well and is easy to find in the usa anyway.

I ran the small heat iron over the tape in the 'high' position.

I used two springs on the elevator and one on the rudder since that's what the photos show on Fran's web site.

Place the springs in when finished tape-hinging.

Now I just need some servos.


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Old 10-23-2012, 12:59 AM   #95
aeroknot
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Default Morning Has Broken lead sheet

The lead sheet version I'm using I downloaded from Wikifonia http://www.wikifonia.org/node/10063


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