Added the fuselage nose blocks. Took all day I could only do one at a time.
Had to clamp each seam and let the glue dry completely before doing the next block so spaces didn't develop at the joints.
Pictures added in earlier post.
Great build Paul.
This plane was designed when I was 8 years old back in 1957 !!
I'm developing an interest in the planes of my childhood now as well. I'll bet it'll benefit enormously from electric conversion.
Really looking forward to it!!!
Remember I told you about making that extra former?
After I cut out the paper template I looked for a piece of 3/32 scrap to cut the former out of. I found a piece laying on the bench that I had already cut something out of so I cut the former from that sheet.
Guess what? The piece of scrap turned out to be the top sheeting I had cut out using a template, The piece missing was the cockpit cut out. Oops.
Time to make another sheet, this time with only one cut out.
Forward sheets are on and pictures are in post number 3.
Paul the astro hog is coming along great.
Your hiding the servos in the wing shamed me into doing the same. I was going to leave them hanging out you know the easy way.
After seeing what you did with the servos I decided to do the right thing, and make servo pockets in the wing. Little extra work, but It does look a heck of a lot cleaner, and proper.
Have you decided what you are going to use for a power system for this plane?
I have an Exceed Monster 46 that was given to me. I made the mount for that, I also modified a mount for the E Flite power 60 to match up. If the plane is tail heavy, it gets the 60 right off. If the 46 doesn't pull it around like I want it gets the 60.
So in answer to your question, yes and no.
Started the stabilizer and vertical fin.
The fin parts and stab tips were printed on balsa stock, band saw and scroll saw to the rescue.
The kit called for 5/16 square spruce leading edges. I used balsa. I think spruce is way overkill.
This plane is so strong that I could use the wing for a ramp to load my lawnmower and the fuselage for a baseball bat.
Oh well, if I want I can always build a smaller one and reduce the weight a lot.
Way back in the last century, a clubmate of mine electrocuted this kit. The motor was an Astro 40G cobalt fed by 24 nimh cells - a little over three pounds of battery. It flew fine at whatever weight - we didn't get fussy then, as weighing models like that could be depressing.
With a modern motor and battery, you'll be well on the way.
Good one on putting the aileron servos inside where they belong. The last aircraft to look good with its controls on the outside was the DeHavilland Tiger Moth biplane! I went to two aileron servos vice one and torque rods around 1988, for the first time, and never went back, it's way better to do it like you did.
paul,your doing a super job and moving along pretty quick.she's going to be flying in no time.sig really does make for a solid build and i think your tail fins will be plenty strong. just don't use this beauty as a ramp...lol. you might put a ding in the wood.
if the checking incidence for surfaces means lineing them up,i always use a yard stick or the string method. i check the measurement a million times and then glue tail fins or drill wing mounts for mounting bolts. if by incidence we'er talking the degree of built in angle of the wing or stableizer....i trust the lazer or cut fuse pc's designed by sig manufacturers to be right......maybe thats why all my builds fly in circles only[jk],sig kits fly beautifully!
not to hijack your build with pictures,but i used the yard stick on my recent uproar build and the string method in these pictures on an earlyer build of one.
narrow is the place to land...wide is the space to crash....choose the narrow way!
Ya I get all the measurements for the tail feathers and make sure there squared up and the stab is parallel with the wing. Just never did the the incidence with the stab and wing.
Stuart I always just trust the kit myself that the wing and stab will be correctly setup. Wonder if that's why my planes do loops by themselves.
That high down elevator trim for inverted could be more due to the semi-symmetrical wing section. The degree of positive is for normal flight - we tend to a wider speed range than back in the single channel/reeds day, which causes trim change. Flip inverted with a semi-symmetrical section and you've got to first overcome the needed plus setting for right-side-up, then compensate for that the semi-symmetrical section isn't as good at lifting when inverted.
As pointed out by a lot of Four Star 40 hours...
Oddly enough, I have a 'kit' that an old flying buddy made of an electrocution that looks a lot like an Astro Hog. He didn't really sell them - only made a dozen or so and gave me the last one as it was cluttering his workshop up - but to avoid messing with the 'real thing', he called it the 'Pollutionless Pig'. It was a very light structured model, around 60" span and pretty aerobatic on 10 to 14 nicad/nimh cells and a geared Astro cobalt 15 or so. Not sure how 'scale' it is, but you can't mistake its ancestory.
As I once flew a 9/14th scale model of a Smog Hog, I really should do some sort of Astro Hog.
Looking forward to seeing this slice of history in the air
Problem is I really spend most of my time flying inverted, so I would rather the plane was a bit easier to fly inverted.
I've run into the semi symmetrical airfoil before and that's why I want to cheat a bit and get the incidence closer to zero.
Yes, I know I'm strange.
I balanced the wing last night. Cleaned and vacuumed the shop and started covering the trailing edge today, so I can hide the pins for the hinges. Took 7 B B's to balance, about 10 grams not bad for such a large wing. I'll try and get some pictures tonight or tomorrow.
Paul great idea on the covering never thought of doing it that way to hide the pins in the hinges. Hope you post some more pic's as you go about the covering. I am sure this will help folks out who are still learning to cover. One of my least favorite parts of the build is covering.
For me I have had to learn not to fight the covering, but to work with the covering to get good results. I hope that makes sense.