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Old 10-21-2012, 09:49 AM   #1
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Default Flashing light on receiver.... CRASH!

Morning,
Lost ALL comms to my plane this morning. Nothing would respond. Upon emergency landing / crash, the small red light on the receiver was flashing. The batteries in the transmitter are new (checked with brand new pack when I got home) and the plane battery is fully charged. Still, no response...

Any tips?

cheers

Ian
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:23 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by ianfox View Post
Morning,
Lost ALL comms to my plane this morning. Nothing would respond. Upon emergency landing / crash, the small red light on the receiver was flashing. The batteries in the transmitter are new (checked with brand new pack when I got home) and the plane battery is fully charged. Still, no response...

Any tips?

cheers

Ian
what radio were you using 2.4 or 35 MHz, what receiver were you using,
if you were using a 2.4 radio system with a park flier receiver, you might have gotten out of range or you might of had the radio signal blocked by a tree, building or even your battery in the plane, or you might of had a brown out caused by low voltage under a load, LVC - Low Voltage Cutoff-
list what motor, esc, transmitter, receiver, lipo mah, cells and C rating of the lipo you were using, and one of the Gurus here can point you in the right direction, Take care and have fun, Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:00 PM   #3
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Default Re: Flashing light on receiver.... CRASH!

Flashing light is bad. On the older receivers is means low voltage and a reset. On newer a signal and packet loss.
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:02 PM   #4
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After further investigation, its either the transmitter or the receiver as I have two motor/esc/batteries set ups and the little light on the receiver flashes when it is connected to either set-up. Also, I've noticed the intensity of the LED on the transmitter fluctuate a few times, leading me to believe that its a dodgy transmitter rather than the receiver. I'm new to this game, but it's the standard stock transmitter that I had with my Wing Dragon 4CH.

Any tips?

ta
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:29 PM   #5
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Not familiar with that brand - sorry - the stuff I had above was for Spektrum brand.
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Old 10-21-2012, 03:34 PM   #6
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Try rebinding the receiver to the transmitter? Hard to tell without a known good RX or TX to test the other with.

The light doesn't give you definitive information about which is bad.

It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:24 PM   #7
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Sorry, how do i rebind the Rx and TX?

This is the email I sent to the company I purchased it from, maybe a bit more info...


-------------------------------------------------------


You remember a couple of weeks ago I called you about a faulty rudder servo? Well, it’s still happening. Also, I mentioned a flashing light on the receiver and you thought it could be due to flat batteries in the transmitter. This didn’t solve the problem as even with new batteries I have to disconnect the rudder servo as to prevent this unwanted movement.

Video clip of servo.....
I still have this problem, but things got a lot worse.

A few times I’ve noticed the LED on the transmitter fluctuate in intensity, even with new batteries. Also, I occasionally lose all power and control of my Wing Dragon, even when it is flying very close. This happens with new batteries in the transmitter and a fully charged main battery. This morning, it happened again and now nothing works. The receiver light is again flashing and will not ‘receive ‘ a signal. However, the servos ‘twitched’ when the LED on the transmitter got brighter for a very brief moment. My view is that the transmitter is faulty (LED fluctuation) and is not giving out a signal. The flashing light on the receiver is maybe due to the transmitter not transmitting.

Video clip of flashing LED .....
I think I need a new transmitter and possibly a receiver?

I’ll call you in the morning.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:57 PM   #8
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You have a number of problems which makes sorting it out all the worse.

1. This is low end electronics. Pretty much ALL trainers use similar quality so electronics frustration is a common complaint. Sorting out 'newbie issues' from 'suspect electronics issues' can be problematic.

2. Since it is RTF almost no one will actually KNOW THAT system unless they are in the same boat you are (newbie not knowing WHAT the problem is).

3. Getting support on unknown TX/RX systems is not easy. Even getting information on how they should actually work and act can be near impossible. You asked how to re-bind. That information SHOULD be in your manual. If not.....well, there you go.

4. You are using NiMh batteries. A LOT of them are junk, especially as folks move almost exclusively to lipo. They've set on a shelf, gone dead, and don't work well. You need a special took called a [wattmeter] to sort that out.

4a. 2.4GHz systems do NOT like to be underpowered. People think they are the newest and greatest but they DO have problems, especially the cheap ones. They drop out the signal completely (digital > on or off). A lousy NiMh battery (see #4) may entirely be a cause of this. Any funky battery or over taxed battery can do it on a digitally based system. So can analogue (72MHz) but they tend to fade and glitch, not just disappear completely all of a sudden.

5. Any of the electronic components can be bad (including lousy supressors on the brushed motor. Figuring out WHICH component without extras to swap out can be difficult.

Note-your servo has a bad potentiometer. This is not uncommon. I've seen it in brand new name brand servos. If it's not terrible, ignore it. If it affects the plane > replace.

fly
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:50 PM   #9
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I've recently gone LiPo and brushless. The receiver LED started to flash with the LiPo setup. I tested the receiver and transmitter with the NiCd setup that I took out the plane last week and had exactly the same problem. Therefore, I'm sure it is the receiver or transmitter at fault.
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:54 PM   #10
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Well then, do you want to trust your flying and plane to suspect electronics? Replacements might work but essentially are still low end.

Frustration with low end, dodgy electronics are a major cause of upgrading. To go forward with this sport you'll need at least a 6-ch computer based TX anyway.

fly
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:56 PM   #11
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Well, I've upgraded the rest of the electronics apart from the transmitter / receiver....
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:03 PM   #12
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Yup, always a tough decision. You can easily spend as much or way more than your first entire RTF kit, and probably should.

Do a search on 'which TX to buy' or some variation of that and get an overwhelming amount of opinions. It's a VERY common question.
At least read this as a basic primer-it's a bit dated but the general concept is still valid:
Don't buy a standard radio!

Think long and hard before you get into the dead end of buying RTF planes with their own TX. They are ALL limited and you can end up with a whole collection of worthless TX, like I do and hoards of other folks that put planes first.
A GOOD TX and charger are the basis of a flying fleet. Put you money in those to start, NOT planes.

fly
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:00 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ianfox View Post
I've recently gone LiPo and brushless. The receiver LED started to flash with the LiPo setup. I tested the receiver and transmitter with the NiCd setup that I took out the plane last week and had exactly the same problem. Therefore, I'm sure it is the receiver or transmitter at fault.
It did work for a while with the lipo/brushless setup right?

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Old 10-21-2012, 09:03 PM   #14
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yep, worked like a dream for a fair few flights. Cheap TX I think? The LED flickering on the TX worried me for a while. I think the intermittent fault is permanent...
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:16 PM   #15
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I think you best tell us EXACTLY, what motor, prop (brand, type and size), ESC, and battery you went to-brands and links if possible. Unless you KNOW for certain that they are compatible there are a LOT of ways to mess up that upgrade and it can affect the RX.

Just because some other Wing Dragon newbie upgrader says it will, don't mean it will for you.

fly
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:25 PM   #16
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Thanks for your help. This was my shopping list, from www.giantshark.co.uk

1 x RC Max 30A ESC Speed controller
1 x 7x6E TGS Sport Propeller
1 x 3mm Prop Adapter
1 x Gens Ace 1800mah 3S 20C Lipo Battery
1 x CF2812 1650KV Brushless Outrunner Motor


Thanks again

Ian
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:38 PM   #17
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Good shopping list. Unless something is wrong with one of the components all those should play well together. Sometimes those motors aren't all that accurate on the KV. If it's higher (quite possible), then the 7x6 is a bit over prop but should be within the range of the ESC and battery. Motor would get hot if pushed.
E-max - CF 2212 Same motor I think, different #. I don't know why by E-Max keeps changing the numbering system.

If you suspect that at all try a 6x4 and see what happens.

Otherwise, you are likely back to your original suspicions.

fly
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:45 PM   #18
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Well, I have a full LiPo set up and a full separate NiCd set up. 2 totally separate set ups. The only common components are the TX and RX, yet the fault is the same fault on both set ups, ie the flashing RX LED. For about 5 seconds this evening, the LiPo set up worked wonderfully, before dying again with a flashing RX LED. Intermittent RX or TX fault I think?
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:50 PM   #19
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It's possible you have 2 lame batteries, or a faulty ESC. A wattmeter would help a LOT. Unfortunately you can't cross swap components.
Usually on 2.4GHz a flashing LED means you lost power to the RX...BUT....I don't know THAT system so can't advise accurately.

If that possibly is true, then you need to figure out why it's happening - bad component or bad connection being most likely. Bad connections can be a hassle to find. Tie the plane down, power up part throttle, and wriggle everything.
BEWARE OF THE PROP. THEY CAN CUT LIKE CRAZY.

But, I see your logic in suspecting the TX and/or RX.

fly
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:05 PM   #20
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The fact that you see the same fault on the NiCd/brushed and Lipo/brushless components would seem to indicate a bad RX or TX.

See what your vendor will do in terms of replacing the TX and/or RX. Since you don't know which is bad, I can't see spending more money on a replacement TX/RX of the same RTF brand.

Better to put your money toward a new RX/TX of a better brand. Be prepared to get all kinds of partisan advice. If you think you'll stay in the hobby, by all means get a "name brand" system. 6 channels minimum and a computerized radio.

It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:39 PM   #21
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I'd just like to throw in that on Spektrum gear, for example, a flashing light on the Rx only means that you've changed out batteries (turned Rx off and then on) without turning the transmitter off and on.

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Old 10-21-2012, 11:01 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
I'd just like to throw in that on Spektrum gear, for example, a flashing light on the Rx only means that you've changed out batteries (turned Rx off and then on) without turning the transmitter off and on.
Ummmm nope. It can mean several things including that, but also that you had a low voltage event. It can also mean signal loss. It depends on what "age" the receiver is. The newer stuff has fast connect so they changed the flash to mean signal loss.

Mike
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:03 PM   #23
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My plane, TX and RX is about 3 weeks old.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:15 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ianfox View Post
My plane, TX and RX is about 3 weeks old.
Don't get your TX/RX (essentially no-name) mixed up the the myriad of other 2.4GHz brands. What they are discussing only has certain relevance to Spektrum. It 'may' pertain to yours but without documentation that conclusion is uncertain.

DO you have ANY worthwhile documentation on the TX/RX, or is it just lame drivel newbie instructions?

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Old 10-21-2012, 11:17 PM   #25
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I have all the instructions for the plane, unfortunately there are none for the TX or RX at all.....
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