Ok I know this has been done before but I thought I would post my build log for a GWS DHC-2 Beaver Kit I just built. I took pictures along the way and tried some of the tricks I have picked up over the years.
This is a all stock kit using all GWS gear except where noted!
GWS parts used in this build are:
1. GWS DHC-2 Beaver kit with GW350c Stock motor and ep1047 prop
2. Pico+/F/BB/J servos
1. ICS300li speed control ( For Lipo battery packs)
1. GW/R4PII receiver
2. deans ez conectors ( for the servos )
2. gws lite foam 1 1/2" wheels
1. gws lite foam 1" wheels
new pack #11 xacto blades
rool of strapping tap ( the kind with fiber strands in it)
mini hot glue gun with (low temp glue sticks)
gws contact cement
pair of metal cutters
clear scotch tape 3/4" type
Step 1. I cut the battery area to fit a 2 cell 1200 style 7.4 volt lipo pack
Step 2. & 3. I cut the slots in the left and right side of the fusalage for the Elevator and Rudder control rods!
Step 4. I glued the motor mount in place using low temp hot glue gun ( this works great and dry time is real fast)
Step 5. I also used the glue gun to glue the rear wheel wire in place
So far, so good! What battery is that in the fuse side? I am going to build a beaver myself, and it looks like a nice fit. I was wondering for a ballpark on what size Lipo to get for it before I need it. Although it looks like that compartment has a lot of room in it..
Thank you kindly,
There are two dogs inside of me. One is good, one is evil.
These two dogs are always fighting a constant battle.
Which dog wins? The one I feed the most...
Step 6 I glued the 2 fusalage halfs together using the Supplied GWS glue (GWS Glue is Contact cement to use spread a thin layer on both sides of the fusalage press parts together and then pull them apart, let the 2 halfs dry for about 10 minutes and then being real carefil press the halfs together go slow and get it right)
Plane is looking like a plane.
Step 7. glue the wing mounts to both side of the fusalage ( I also at this time glued the crowl mounts in place since I had the glue gun out)
Step 8. glue the Battery hatch in place then cut the tabs on the inside and make sure your battery is a good fit!
Step 9. GWS now offers a extra bambo rod to brace the foam elevator piece follow instruction and instll the rod ( I made it a litte shorter then the mfr sugested saving a little weight)
step 10. install the elevator and then tape the control surface to the font piece of the elevator using scotch tape.
Looking good TallFlyer, You'll love this airplane. I have had mine now for about a year and other than the plastic nose pice being somewhat beat up it still looks great. I am running a 400xt in mine now but the original power plant was sufficient enough to have a great time with it.
step 11. hinge the rudder and glue the rudder assembly tot eh fusalage
step 12. mount the motor ( make sure you put a little screw threw the motor mount and into the wood mount to keep teh motor in place)
step 13. cut the plastic crowl out and install it with the 4 little screws
step 14. glue the babmbo wing mounts in place
( Last picture shows the motor wire coming threw the fusalage)
step 15. put the prop and rubber nose piece on
step 16 install all your radio gear ( will show linkage hookup in later pictures)
step 17-18 install lite foam scale tires from GWS
step 19. tape in pace the foam wheel struts.
Step 20 & 21. install plastic control horns ( I prebent my control rods so they would move more freely) a good trick is to put dubro ez-conectors on both ends of the wires to make adusting your surfaces fast and clean!
step 22-23 shows the dubro ez-conectors!
step 23 I removed the gws decal tape on the foam wheel struts and replaced it with 3/4" strapping tape holds alot better and is stronger.
I have been doing it this way since about my 2nd tigermoth and it works great
Step 1. line up both halfs of the wings and make sure they fit together real clean, trim if needed for a good fit!
Step 2. put a piece of wax papaer on your building surface ( you can thank me later)
Step 3. put a box or a book under one half of the wing to get the correct angle.
Step 4. apply a good amount of hot glue to one side of the wing and press the 2 half together as shown in the photo.
step 5. trim and apply the top wing brace using hot glue also instead of the double stick tape.
Step 6. apply strut brace to wing turn it 90 dergrees so that the hole in the brace faces forward and back!
step 7. install plastic mounts and bambo rods apply a little glue to hold them in place.
Step 8. The GWS dhc-2 Beaver has a piece of paper showing how to brace the wing with strapping tape to remove wing flutter this is a good idea if you want to do loops and stuff and it does make the wing alot stronger.
( you can see some of the tape in the pictures) it goes on the trailing edge top and bottom-and then you make a X on the bottom of the wing with tape)
I also like to put a piece of tape on the front of the top wing brace for a little extra strength!
The best feature of this plane its the thick foam fuse, with considerable material in the front end, around the stick mount. Other GWS planes have thin areas that explode on impact. The large cross-section foamies do well.
I did a few mods to this plane:
GWS has a leaflet on strengthening the wings. I din't like the idea of cobbling up the wings with off-scale rigged sub-brace additions. Simply placing 1/32 music wire along the trailing edge, and then clear taping over it, with 1" wide tape, will keep the wing from tearing at the fuse, where stress is concentrated, and minimizes wing "flutter".
The floats are nice, but rip out. I ran CF spar from about an inch or so forward of the front mount, to an inch or so behind the rear mount, CA gluing it to the fuse bottom and the outside of the float/landing gear mounts. This "rail" reinforcement is light and distributes the load to a large portion of the fuse bottom.
Its a little work, but I cut the battery door hinges, and glued in real DuBro pin hinges. The original flex-point hinges eventually snap.
The cowl is paper thin. I glassed the inside of it, now about pop bottle strong.
Ok here is a file of the Bp21 motor test using a GWS esc15A Brushless esc and a ep9070 prop.
I shot this video to show people the quality of the bp21 type motors!
this motor when used with a standard 2cell 7.4 volt lipo and the gws 15amp esc is great for teh DHC2-Beaver if you go up to a 3 cell 11.1 you will want to move up to a 18-25amp esc because this combo will pull a crazy 22oz of thurst and you need the extra amps to do it!
Im working on a combo for my website so stay tunned!
I have a Himax 2015-4100 with GWS "C" gearbox on mine. More power than useable, or at least without flutter. The GWS 9070 3-blade looks more scale on it, and seems to be well matched with the setup. The extra power is nice to take off from a 12 foot runway, on snow with the skis.
Ok I know tha the GWS Beaver is not what I would call a rocket or a 3D plane or even a patern plane but I got a brushless combo for abot $40.00 and I figured out what the hay! www.foamfighters.com/brushless.html And now the parkflyer has a little punch. at half throttel she zooms alone with a good clip move her to full 3/4 throttle or full and straightup she ges great for getting her up in a hurry from a tight short runway! and once up drop throttle and just cruz around she is a real floater the BP21 motor and esc using a 2 cell 1200-1300 7.4 volt pack makes flying fun and when its time to land chop all power she is a real floater.
Elegant simplicity Robert V. Clean and unclutered. Very, very nice.
What flight times are you getting with your BP-21 on a 1200 7.4V pack?
TallFlyer, I'm getting ready to build my third Beaver and just love this airplane. Where did you get the motor mount for the BP 21?
I'll be using a BP-12 on mine, I put one in my other Beaver and get great performance with a 10X4.7 prop. I also use a 2S 2100 battery which makes the airplane a little heavier but flight time is amazing. If there's no wind I put a 1200 battery in it and slow fly by's are a blast.
Is the non-powered version of this plane exactly the same, minus motor & hardware? In other words if I wanted to go brushless could I buy the non-powered one and save a few bucks to put toward the brushless setup?