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Old 01-09-2013, 02:15 AM   #51
Rockin Robbins
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Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
@Rockin: Thanks for commenting on Paul's suggested Radian mods. It's nice to get another experienced flyer's perspective.

Too late on #4: I bought a spare battery when I bought the plane. I'm sure I'll upgrade down the road when I become a competent pilot and want more power.
No harm done. There's nothing wrong with the Parkzone battery, it's just too expensive and the C rating is abyssmal. But it will work fine and you'll never know the difference until you get a cheaper, better battery. You'll still keep the old ones in rotation, so no harm done!

Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
What is the purpose of #5 (taping over the hatch front)? I assume it is to reduce air turbulence but am not sure.
Exactly right. I'm not sure exactly how much good it will do but it certainly won't do any harm and it marks you as a guy who is willing to pay attention to detail to make the plane fly better. It's easier than painting lightning on the wings.

Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
I did #8 using Scotch Tough transparent duct tape. I also taped along the top and bottom of the fuselage and the leading edge of the vertical tail.
Good! That will stiffen up the airframe and make it more dent resistant where it counts.

Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
I ordered replacement Dubro mini EZ connectors and 2 canopies. Hopefully they are here by the end of the week.
PERFECT! I use Dubro mini EZ connectors on my Slow Stick and they are great. I always took a rubber band and used it around my fuselage as a canopy keeper. If you do it right it looks like window framework from 20' away. You can also double up on the magnets to make it stick tighter.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:43 PM   #52
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My replacement Dubro mini EZ connectors and 2 spare canopies arrived yesterday. I hope the weather/wind permits flying this weekend. One thing I noticed when I removed the old thumbscrews was that the elevator was not perfectly flush with the horizontal stabilizer (it had a slight upturn). This may have contributed to my first 2 flights prematurely ending.

This yields the following question: which side (top or bottom) of the Radian's horizontal stabilizer should the elevator be flush with (which side do I set the ruler on)? I assume the bottom but want to be sure.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:17 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
This yields the following question: which side (top or bottom) of the Radian's horizontal stabilizer should the elevator be flush with (which side do I set the ruler on)? I assume the bottom but want to be sure.
Neither top nor bottom, it should be dead centre so if you put a straight edge on the top of the stab, and another on the bottom, the elevator should dead centre between the two.

This is of course just a starting point, you may need to add trim.
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:41 PM   #54
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One issue I forgot to mention: the connector with the broken thumbscrew is still tightly attached to the control rod. I am trying to figure out how to safely remove it.

p.s. No flying this weekend as it is fairly windy.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:28 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
the connector with the broken thumbscrew is still tightly attached to the control rod.
Not sure what part of the plane you are talking about? Do you mean pushrod?.. If so i'm not sure where the thumbscrew fits in?
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:02 AM   #56
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Yep, the connector on the pushrod to the elevator. The thumbscrew screwed into the connector that slides onto the pushrod, securing it to the elevator. I'm probably using the incorrect lingo.

Anyway, the aluminum thumbscrew broke off as I was tightening it, leaving the base of the screw still inside the connector, tight against the pushrod. Not sure how to get it off without damaging the pushrod.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:45 AM   #57
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That'll be fun to get out. Is any portion of it still sticking out? You might be able to grab it with needle nose pliers. Being that tiny, it's gonna be tough. If it's broken flush or inside, it may have rough enough spots to catch with a small screwdriver. Once it's broken loose, it might back out without any more resistance. Holding the 'thingie' that holds the pushrod and wiggling the pushrod (Both with pliers) may help getting what's left of the screw to loosen that little bit to get started. Good luck!
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:41 AM   #58
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I guess we must be looking at some sort of non-standard connector? The standard pushrod arrangement is for the pushrod to have a male screwed end and the clavis (the bit that connects to the control horn) screws on to the pushrod.

This sounds something quite different. maybe you could swap the whole thing out for a standard pushrod and clevis?
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:33 PM   #59
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It's the standard connector that comes with the plane. The screw that goes into the connector to secure the pushrod is an aluminum thumbscrew that isn't very sturdy.

I think I will apply a drill to it for my first attempt at removing it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:59 PM   #60
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Sorry, when i said 'standard' I meant standard as in the normal type that you find on most RC planes. The one you have is obviously a special design not found on many other models.

Drilling out is good but ideally you would want a left hand drill so that it would extract the male threaded part from the hole rather than just drilling a hole down the middle.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:11 PM   #61
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Or it could be a job for the trusty old Dremel cutoff wheel.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:42 AM   #62
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Excellent idea! Why didn't I think of that?!
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:28 AM   #63
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Default Parkzone Radian RTF CG way out of whack

First time on WattFlyer so be gentle..

I have been flying my radian for over a year now, mainly on slopes but occasional flat fields and have experienced all of the CG issues, battery placement, nose dives etc. Already some really good info (technical
explainations) on WattFlyer so here are a few personal observations based on experience that might help someone with a new radian keep it in one piece:

1. I use an Eflite 3s 11.1V 1350mAh pushed as far back as it can go. Gives a
CG of around 73mm from LE. This combination FOR ME produces no
porpoising, flat stab with few clicks of trim up/down as necessary for the
lift conditions. Lovely flat stable glide as if on rails. This battery with a bit
of thermal or slope lift will last for hours.
2. Take off never more than 50% power, (no power needed on slope with lift).
Still prone to pitch up under power (because of stab angle I assume) so
with my DX6I I use a mix as follows: Thro/Elev ACT Rate D 0% U +30%
SW AIL DR Trim INH. FOR ME this setting will fly the radian as quick as
I want with no pitch up. Lovely seeing the radian fly quickly and not have
to manually feed in down elevator.
3. Radian does not like flare on landing, nose will drop. So allow plenty of
space and let the radian land itself in the final stage.
4. I use max travel of 125% on rudder (as this is the only directional control.
No DR or Expo as not needed. Also use the Aileron stick (Mode 2) for
rudder. So FOR ME the left stick is power only and the right stick is elev
and rudder. That way I cannot get caught out and unintentionally apply
power when all I wanted was rudder control....

This is a great glider and once trimmed to suit YOU on the day DEPENDING ON CONDITIONS ON THE DAY (few clicks of elev either way), it will glider peacefully until you decide to bring it down. Brilliant glider to gain confidence on and just enjoy.
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:07 PM   #64
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Default Fatal crash

Thanks for sharing the valuable advice. I, too, prefer using Mode 2, which I've read is predominant in the USA.

I've had my Radian for a year and was only able to get in a few flights in after replacing the connectors and getting it airworthy after the first crash. With ~40% power it flew around easily in large, lazy circles. Unfortunately, I suffered a fatal crash during the last flight after powering it off to check its glide path. It plunged into the ground and I was too low (~60') to power out of it. Another lesson learned the hard way.

The fuselage snapped at the battery compartment. All else looks good but I haven't yet tested the electronics or engine to see if they really survived. I ordered a new fuselage and several other spare parts and have received them. I haven't yet transferred the guts to the body. I'm hoping 2014 yields a smarter pilot.

Troy
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:17 AM   #65
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Do any of your Radian pilots fly in electric glider contests? The Radian is VERY popular for e-glider contests.

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Old 02-16-2017, 09:50 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by tscheffel View Post
Thanks for sharing the valuable advice. I, too, prefer using Mode 2, which I've read is predominant in the USA.

I've had my Radian for a year and was only able to get in a few flights in after replacing the connectors and getting it airworthy after the first crash. With ~40% power it flew around easily in large, lazy circles. Unfortunately, I suffered a fatal crash during the last flight after powering it off to check its glide path. It plunged into the ground and I was too low (~60') to power out of it. Another lesson learned the hard way.

The fuselage snapped at the battery compartment. All else looks good but I haven't yet tested the electronics or engine to see if they really survived. I ordered a new fuselage and several other spare parts and have received them. I haven't yet transferred the guts to the body. I'm hoping 2014 yields a smarter pilot.

Troy
I know your post is a couple years old. But I must report similar problems. Firstly, a terribly nose heavy plane. Then several broken prop hubs, and propellers, then a burned out esc, that almost set it a-fire. Then finally a reasonable flight with CG tuned in. Although a very touchy throttle control that would cause a loop at 1/4 throttle.

On third flight, elevator lost control for some reason, at three mistake altitude. High speed nose dart into the ground. No way to pull it out. Elevator non responsive. Broken fuse at battery box. The force broke the 3S battery apart. And the elevator servo stripped out. Wing cracked but fixable at mount. All else seems OK. New fuse on the way, and also a new servo. Another $50 in parts to keep this plane going.

This is going to be the last chance for this POS plane. Everyone talks about the great Radian. Not my experience. When it gllides it seems to float forever. But getting it flying under power has been HORRIBLE.
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:19 AM   #67
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Vulcaneer, the Radian is not designed to fly around under power. The motor is a launch device, meant to haul your Radian to soaring altitude as quickly as it can and then be shut off. The Radian is very unhappy flying under power, unless you are climbing at maximum efficiency angle and airspeed. It was designed to soar, and that's what it does excellently.

Do you rate a Pitts biplane by how it soars, writing it off as a dog because it has a lousy glide ratio? Aerodynamics is a zero-sum game. Give one characteristic to get another. There is no one plane that does everything well. For what it is designed to do the Radian does, not fair, not well, not pretty good, but brilliantly! It still has no peers in RTF powered sailplanes.

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Old 02-21-2017, 01:59 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Rockin Robbins View Post
Vulcaneer, the Radian is not designed to fly around under power. The motor is a launch device, meant to haul your Radian to soaring altitude as quickly as it can and then be shut off. The Radian is very unhappy flying under power, unless you are climbing at maximum efficiency angle and airspeed. It was designed to soar, and that's what it does excellently.

Do you rate a Pitts biplane by how it soars, writing it off as a dog because it has a lousy glide ratio? Aerodynamics is a zero-sum game. Give one characteristic to get another. There is no one plane that does everything well. For what it is designed to do the Radian does, not fair, not well, not pretty good, but brilliantly! It still has no peers in RTF powered sailplanes.
+100 RR....
The Radian is the easiest & gentlest glider one can have. I've had mine up in the thermals for almost 2hrs continually. I did do quite a bit of reinforcing to the fuse & H/V Stabs that eliminated any/all tail flutter w/carbon fiber reinforcements that added a bit of tail weight so I can have a bit of maneuvering room for the (2) sizes of batts.(1800 & 2200mah) I use for correct CG. I was able to add an Aeronaut CAM 11x8 prop & alum. spinner that compensated for the xtra tail weight & it now has an unlimited vertical climb. I only power for 30sec. to get to gliding altitude & then I glide/thermal power off. I've had it to 1475'(internal altimeter). I have the bottom of the starboard wing & H-STAB painted flat black that makes it so much easier to see & orient. I keep the wings secure with (3) 3/8"sq Neo-Magnets & never had the wings loosen. I have the original Parkzone Radians that I like better than the EFlight Radian. The Radian is second to none. Attached are a couple pics of my reinforcements.

Denny


Attached Images
File Type: jpg Radian12.JPG (210.9 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg Radian4.jpg.JPG (239.2 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg Radian2.jpg.JPG (137.8 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg Radian_spinner1.jpg.JPG (124.8 KB, 49 views)
File Type: jpg Radian10.JPG (253.4 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg Radian3.jpg.JPG (238.5 KB, 47 views)

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Old 02-21-2017, 05:17 AM   #69
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I have to add my agreement, the Radian is a terrible power plane but an excellent glider. 30 seconds is what I usually use for a motor run.

I fly the radian in soaring competitions under AMA ALES rules. Altitude Limited Electric Soaring. We put a device in the glider that shuts the motor off after 30 seconds or when it reaches 200 meters in height. Then it is a soaring contest.

A stock Radian only hits about 170 meters in 30 seconds so I changed the prop to a 10X8. It makes 200 meters in about 26 seconds.

On a very good lift day I can get a couple of hours of flying on a single 1300 mah battery pack. On a poor day, maybe 40 minutes of flying. I typically use 1000 mah or 1300 mah packs though I have flown it on 850 mah packs.

Fun little glider. I fly mine completely stock except for the prop and battery change.

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Old 02-21-2017, 02:45 PM   #70
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No arguement on the gliding capabilities of the Radian. Even though, when gliding it just decided to nose dive vertically into the ground. I believe the elevator went nuts. Tried pulling it up...but no joy. "Spike" into the ground.

The issues I have had was due to what I consider poor quality. Broken prop hub...that sent the prop thru a window, failed esc, bad CG location, this last elevator failure, and some other things. At 1/4 throttle it would loop. Standard glide test it would nose in...no stalling. Just goes out straight for a few feet and noses down sharply. Even in high altitude glide would go into steep dive, until added some tail weight. Getting it to altitude under power was the biggest problem. Still working on it. Hope it does what you all say it will do. Love the way it glides...once it gets up there.
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Old 02-25-2017, 05:18 PM   #71
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Never had an ESC problem in spite of the fact that when my motor was on it was usually full or nearly full throttle. There is NO cooling for ESC or motor, so running longer than 30 seconds or a minute are guaranteed to give you overheating problems. That's just using the equipment for inappropriate tasks, not quality control issues.

Others have had broken props and broken hubs. I never did. Did you balance your prop? Basic stuff is necessary with ANY plane you ever fly. Prop strikes demand a thorough disassembly and possible replacement of parts.

The elevator problem was probably the design of the stock push rod lock screw. I never had any problem with mine but can see how some would. If you overtorque it, you will strip the threads, causing the inability to lock trim position. If you undertorque it you might have the screw back out and you again lose your elevator position. I never used a tool with mine and was very careful about the amount of torque I applied to this tiny screw of questionable material. Many, many owners replace this piece of hardware with one they like better. I understand why but the original is a workable and reliable unit if treated properly EVERY TIME.

Because the motor is set up as a launch device, the plane pitches up markedly under power. You have to compensate with applying down elevator to balance increased power. If you do so it will not loop at full power, much less 1/4 throttle. Any plane will crash without appropriate control input!

Glide tests are for the purpose of approximating trim settings. If your plane dives in a glide test there are two possible reasons: you tossed it too slowly or your trim position is wrong. A little stick deflection will fix that to land it. Then add a little up trim for the next glide test until you're happy. You have to do this with every plane you will ever fly until the end of time. Some planes aren't appropriate for a hand launched power off glide test.

It takes a set of skills to fly a plane. Blaming a plane for doing what planes do is pointless except that in your mind it relieves you of any responsibility to fix the problem. But the fact is, nobody else is going to fix it for you. If you want a great flying plane you have to develop, perfect and use the necessary skills.

Your criticisms of the Radian can be equally applied to any random plane. Some of the most excellent planes have evil characteristics that take skill to defang. Then you typically find that those evil characteristics are what make that plane excellent to begin with.

Don't be afraid of the learning curve! The enjoyment on the down slope is amazing!

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Old 02-26-2017, 03:51 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by Rockin Robbins View Post
Never had an ESC problem in spite of the fact that when my motor was on it was usually full or nearly full throttle. There is NO cooling for ESC or motor, so running longer than 30 seconds or a minute are guaranteed to give you overheating problems. That's just using the equipment for inappropriate tasks, not quality control issues.Actually my plane is the E-Flight version. There is some ESC cooling. And with my Radian, I too only run it at climbing speed to get it up to altitude in much less than 30 seconds. Regardless of that, all the other planes I have run their motors a whole lot longer than 30 seconds at a whack, with no esc problems. My Conscendo sail planes are more than a year old, with their original ESC's. Never a problem with them. I know an esc failure when I see one. This Radian one failed.

Others have had broken props and broken hubs. I never did. Did you balance your prop? Basic stuff is necessary with ANY plane you ever fly. Prop strikes demand a thorough disassembly and possible replacement of parts. The prop hub is very under engineered. The hub broke, on power up...because it is too weak. Plain and simple. It blew up in my living room during a watt test. All parts were recovered for post mortum inspection. Props did not fail. The hub trust face was less than .060" thick polystyrene. The hub failed.

The elevator problem was probably the design of the stock push rod lock screw. I never had any problem with mine but can see how some would. If you overtorque it, you will strip the threads, causing the inability to lock trim position. If you undertorque it you might have the screw back out and you again lose your elevator position. I never used a tool with mine and was very careful about the amount of torque I applied to this tiny screw of questionable material. Many, many owners replace this piece of hardware with one they like better. I understand why but the original is a workable and reliable unit if treated properly EVERY TIME.Your arguement does NOT apply to this model. The E-Flight version uses clevices, instead of the thumb screw attachment method. After the crash, the clevis and horn was intact on the elevator.

Because the motor is set up as a launch device, the plane pitches up markedly under power. You have to compensate with applying down elevator to balance increased power. If you do so it will not loop at full power, much less 1/4 throttle. Any plane will crash without appropriate control input!Interesting that you seem to know what my control inputs were, or where my trims were set, when you weren't there to see it.

Glide tests are for the purpose of approximating trim settings. If your plane dives in a glide test there are two possible reasons: you tossed it too slowly or your trim position is wrong. A little stick deflection will fix that to land it. Then add a little up trim for the next glide test until you're happy. You have to do this with every plane you will ever fly until the end of time. Some planes aren't appropriate for a hand launched power off glide test.So you are saying that the Radian is not appropriate for a hand toss glide test? I must question your logic.

It takes a set of skills to fly a plane. Blaming a plane for doing what planes do is pointless except that in your mind it relieves you of any responsibility to fix the problem. But the fact is, nobody else is going to fix it for you. If you want a great flying plane you have to develop, perfect and use the necessary skills.I haven't developed, perfected, or use the necessary skills to fly a Radian? But you are the one that has confused the elevator connection. The way the prop ASSEMBLY failed, claim the Radian is NOT appropriate for a hand toss glide test. You may be a super contributor. You have no problem shooting from your hip. It's just hitting the target, that may be your problem. Notnsaying you don't know what you're talking about. It's just that you don't in this case.

Your criticisms of the Radian can be equally applied to any random plane. Some of the most excellent planes have evil characteristics that take skill to defang. Then you typically find that those evil characteristics are what make that plane excellent to begin with. I can tell you with autority that out of the box, my Conscendo sailplanes and other Parkzone and Eflight sport planes perform in their purpose far and above this Radian.

Don't be afraid of the learning curve! The enjoyment on the down slope is amazing!
See my response in bold above.
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Old Today, 02:22 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Vulcaneer View Post
See my response in bold above.
I see we can't have a conversation.

You don't agree that some planes are not suitable for hand launch glide tests? Where did I say the Radian is not suitable? Why do you have to make stuff up to generate antipathy? Your responses range from weird to irrelevant. Are you interested in why your experience is so different from ours or are you only interested in controversy?

Have a very nice day. The Radian is just the absolute most fun in a foam sailplane. It's a very old design and still hasn't been equaled. If you wish to give yours away I'll give it a great home!

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Old Today, 04:49 PM   #74
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Hmmm....Lets see. Who was it, referring to esc failure, that posted..."running longer than 30 seconds or a minute is guarranteed to give you over heating problems"?

Who was it that posted..."There is no cooling for esc or motor"? Who was it that suggested, "basic stuff is necessary with ANY plane." And suggested that I didn't follow basic procedures...like prop balancing. That was BLATANTLY incorrect. Just because you never broke a prop (or the assembly) doesn't mean it never happened on the Radian. We both know differently.

Who was it that suggested my elevator problem was probably the design of the pushrod lock screw? My plane uses a clevis.

Who was it that posted while adivising about a Radian glide test, that "some planes aren't appropriate for a hand launched power off glide test." Sure sounded like you were talking about the Radian, there. But of course, I do agree that some plains are not appropriate for power off hand launch glide test. But I cannot think of any SAILPLANE where that might not be appropriate. Who was being irrelavent there?

The E-flight Radian stock prop hub is DANGEROUS. I don't care what anyone says. Entirely under built for a motor this strong and a plane this heavy.

I can go on to dissect a rebuttal. But why? I listed a few instances of my experience with poor quality. And difficulty flying out of the box...with factory specific setup specs. The whole flavor of your post is that there is no problem with the plane. But instead, all issues are due to my fault. And there is no quality problem there. If you read back in this thread, there are plenty of similar examples of quality concerns. So maybe not so wierd.

Am not saying the Radian cannot be made to be a great soaring and thermalling airframe. But MY RADIAN has given me problems that I was not expecting.

Some of your advice is very helpful. I will offer that when climbing out a sailplane to altitude, it is counterintuitive for me to need to apply copius amounts of down elevator for gaining altitude in a more controlled way. I will accept and appreciate your advice there. But will also offer....that down elevator...to go up thing, is kinda wierd...for me.

Your well found constructive contributions and advice are welcomed by me. But your accusatory mis-placed, un-founded criticizm is not wanted. But I see no reason why we cannot have a constructive conversation. YMMV....But I hope not.

No you won't be getting my Radian. I am going to work out the flaws. So I can enjoy it as well as everyone else does.
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