UBEC

[ChuckD]

I read the section on ESCs. Didn't notice any mention of ESC w/ubec. what is the differences between a BEC and UBEC

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by ChuckD

I read the section on ESCs. Didn't notice any mention of ESC w/ubec. what is the differences between a BEC and UBEC

Here is some info from Heads up RC, A BEC is a Battery Elimination Circuit, Its built into most ESC, it regulates the battery voltage to about 5 volts for operating the ESC, receiver, Servos, ETC, A UBEC is a Seperate Universal Battery Elimination Circuit, Some of the Cheaper ESC use a Linear (resistor) type Voltage regulator, and a Better ESC use a Switching BEC, a switching UBEC uses Electronics rather than just a resistor to regulate the voltage with, and a switching UBEC is better to use. Hope that helps, Chellie


http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...t=ubec+chellie

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...Battery/Detail













3 Amp Universal Battery Elimination Circuit (UBEC)

SKU: G-150
Price: $7.95
This item is in stock
Quantity:





















This3 amp Universal Battery Elimination Circuit (UBEC) is a 'switch mode' DC regulator that takes the high voltage (up to 21 volts) of the main battery pack and converts it to a consistant and safe 5 volts for your receiver and servos. A UBEC is needed if the Electronic Speed Control (ESC) being used for the motor does not have a built in Battery Elimination Circuit (BEC), or if the BEC of the ESC is inadequate to power the number and/or size of servos being used. Using this UBEC is a safer way to go on large models for the following reasons:
1. Most built-in BEC circuits are 1 to 2 amp 'linear mode' circuits which are only useful for 2 or possibly 3 standard size servos when using a 3 cell Lipo battery. If you use more servos, or a higher voltage battery pack, you will almost certainly overload the BEC, causing a crashed model.
2. In an ESC with a built-in BEC, excessive heat generated in the ESC by the current draw of the motor and/or BEC can cause total loss of power to the receiver/servos, resulting in a crashed model. The chance of total loss of power is greatly reduced when a separate receiver battery pack or UBEC is used. If the ESC overheats and shuts down (no power to the motor), you will still have power to the receiver/servos, and will be able to maintain control of the model.
Connecting a UBEC:
The red (+) and black (-) power input wires of the UBEC are connected directly to the main battery pack of an electric model, the same as the ESC. In fact, the power input wires of the UBEC are often spliced into the power input wires of the ESC, so that the UBEC and ESC power on at exactly the same moment. The power output wires of the UBEC have a receiver connector on them, and this is usually plugged into any open channel of the receiver.

Special note:
If the ESC being used has a built in BEC, that BEC must be disabled when using a UBEC,as you should have only one power source providing power to the receiver. To disable the BEC of an ESC, simply disconnect or cut the red wire on the receiver plug of the ESC.
If you are certain that your ESC does not have a built in BEC, then do not disconnect the red wire of the receiver plug of the ESC (if it has one). Most ESCs that do not have a built-in BEC say OPTO somewhere on the label.
3A UBEC Specifications:
Input Voltage: 5 to 21 volts (2-5 cell Lipo batteries)
Output Voltage: 5 volts
Output Current: 3 amps. Will power up to 6 standard size, medium torque (60 oz) servos, and up to 8 sub-micro servos.

Interference reduction: Ferrite ring on receiver wire

Regulator type: Switching

Power input connector: Red JST (female housing)

Receiver Connector: Universal 'S' type
Weight: 0.3 oz (9 grams)
Size: 1.4 x 0.63 x 0.4 inches

For use with 2.4 Ghz and 72 Mhz radio systems

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by ChuckD

I read the section on ESCs. Didn't notice any mention of ESC w/ubec. what is the differences between a BEC and UBEC

The standard linear voltage regulator type of BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit) used on many low cost ESC's might be responsible for more than a few crashes. IMHO, these cheap BEC's should never be used on any model with more than two LiPo cells in the motor battery pack. It's just not safe.

If your ESC does not specify a switching type of BEC, it's likely the cheap linear BEC. The Castle Creations ICE series of ESCs (along with several other brands of ESC's) have built in uBEC's for receiver power. The Castle Creations ICE uBEC is rated for something like 5-6 Amps. A bit low for a model with a motor pulling over 1000 watts. This can call for a separate high power uBEC for those larger models.

One very good separate uBEC is the Castle Creations 10 Amp uBEC. I've got them on all of my models, they've been trouble free. Also on my giant scale models I've got both the CC uBEC AND a separate 2 cell A123 battery pack as a backup supply. Let me know if you'd like to know how this was done. I've got two giant scale models that use seven Hitec 645MG servos. I've measured the peak current pulled by those seven servos at 14 Amps, just moving the transmitter sticks round and round.

Take a look:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63779

[slipstick]

Generally BEC means a circuit built into the ESC which might be a standard linear BEC or a switching BEC (often called an SBEC).

A UBEC a normally a separate standalone BEC not built into the ESC.

But the terms sometimes get confused. So there's really no easy way to tell exactly what any particular vendor might mean by "ESC w/UBEC" .

Steve

[ChuckD]

Thanks for the help. Trying to get my mind wrapped around all this E stuff. Seems the more I learn the dumber I am. thanks for your answers without further confusing me.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by ChuckD

Thanks for the help. Trying to get my mind wrapped around all this E stuff. Seems the more I learn the dumber I am. thanks for your answers without further confusing me.

Naw
As I've indicated before, the "dumb ones" are the guys who ask questions AFTER they burn something up

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by ChuckD

Thanks for the help. Trying to get my mind wrapped around all this E stuff. Seems the more I learn the dumber I am. thanks for your answers without further confusing me.

Dont feel like the Lone Ranger Chuck It took me about 1 year to get a good working knowlage of E Power, The Folks here at Wattflyer have been very very helpful in teaching me the in and outs of E Power, In Fact, They Even put Up With Me I dont know how they do it Take care and have fun, Chellie

[firemanbill]

Originally Posted by kyleservicetech

Naw
As I've indicated before, the "dumb ones" are the guys who ask questions AFTER they burn something up

So very very true!