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Old 02-08-2013, 03:22 AM   #1
CrimzonRider
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Default Dumas(P.Tritle's) TaylorCraft 40" Balsa Kit Build- "Jeannie"

First Kit and I'm glad I didn't get anything "bigger" hardly enough space left in my computer room. Made photocopies of plans at Staples, and enjoyed burning an hour talking to couple ol' boys that been flying rc and interested in quad-copters. Anyways, Instructions are seemingly well written, but no pics(no problem!) All pieces seemed to be accounted for and only one 1/16x1/16 is broken/slivered at one end. Took just a bit, to organize the different sizes into piles.

Cut a 24"x 48" piece of 28ga sheet metal with grinder(less heat than oxy/actylene, no warping), had to shim underneath a little to get metal base dead level.
Just waiting on magnets now.
Waiting on glue to dry right now on rudder and wing tip laminates.
Forgot to get a little bit of foam board to form them.
Waiting on better half to get home and quit shopping all evening and bring foam.
Seems to be a pattern devoloping! It's all good! I'm pretty pysched and ready to get started.

Not a whole lot of info or links to actual identical builds, but I did find a couple including one from the Designer, Pat Tritle. Looks like, by his posts, it only took a few hours for him to build it 90%! Pretty Amazing

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=484917

Not too worried, but I think it's going to take a little longer than that for me. 2weeks, 2 months, 2 yea......wait, hopefully not that long!

This kit might not be the best kit for a beginner like me, but the reason for picking this one is that my mother in September 9th 1969, won a 1946 creme/blue BC-12D TaylorCraft in Watonga, OK. I am assuming that was very similar to this kit. Also, I have a quirk about naming things, heck I even name butcher calves so I am naming her "Jeannie" (not to be confused with Barbara Eden). post pics soon....

Also, it came with blue/yellow tissue for doping, so I am going to need to get a different light covering???

....less talking & more pics to follow....

have a good one
CR


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Old 02-08-2013, 04:55 PM   #2
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Instruction manual with no pictures??? You have the link to the build the DESIGNER did, with pictures. AND he is still answering questions 6 years later. That is the greatest instruction manual EVER! I will be following this build.
Also you may want, if you havn't already, want to pick up a 4X36" sheet of 1/16, and any other thicknesses the kit has and a "Balsa stripper" (Keep it clean) in order to have the ability to make some of the little parts that may be bad, have issues, or you screw up.

I'm either going to get good at flying em, or get good at fixin em!
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:17 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by BroncoSquid View Post
Instruction manual with no pictures??? You have the link to the build the DESIGNER did, with pictures. AND he is still answering questions 6 years later. That is the greatest instruction manual EVER! I will be following this build.
Also you may want, if you havn't already, want to pick up a 4X36" sheet of 1/16, and any other thicknesses the kit has and a "Balsa stripper" (Keep it clean) in order to have the ability to make some of the little parts that may be bad, have issues, or you screw up.
Broncosq,I agree totally, I was just talking about the little booklet that came with the kit. But, I did think that the step by step instructions were very well written! I have read quite of few of his posts, and he really seems like he is just another guy on the block, even seen one guy call him up with a problem one evening, and Pat talked to him for about 30mins to answer all his questions! Pretty Rare in this day and age.

Thanks for the extra tip!

have a good one flying
cr
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:09 AM   #4
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Default Links

http://www.patscustom-models.com/Bowed%20Outlines.htm

http://www.patscustom-models.com/bui...nding_gear.htm
"stole" this link from Turner, thanks.

in general pats build links
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606076
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:00 AM   #5
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Default Mistakes/Fixes

Wingtip bowing (25min soak)=good, Rudder radi (35min soak)=interior kinks. 35min for WT, 55min for small Rudder radi = perfect

Cowl construction didn't go so good, motor stick mount was set 2deg. right thrust as per Pats thread and instructions, but the front cowl plate was slighty angled off to the left about 1/8", but very visible. Cutting the cowls ribs and realigning, guess I was going too fast!!

Fuse looks very square and straight, though upper aft (2") section has a very slight bend in it, going to cut a two 1/16x1/8 braces and refit.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:40 PM   #6
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little bit done....


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Old 02-17-2013, 12:47 AM   #7
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Looking Good CR! The rudder looks realy nice. How are you liking the magnet building board? I've been using a ceiling tile and pins for my builds.

Steve

Growing the fleet!
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:20 AM   #8
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Thanks Steve. I'm kinda liking the magnets, IMHO the mini(low strength) are perfect, the mega (high) have to be placed very carefully.. they start pulling 1.5-2" apart. Thinking about ordering some more minis.

BTW that was 2nd try @ rudder bow, that lower radius still has one little kink in it, but kinda getting a feel for it, might do over later.

christopher

the "next one" I might use T-Pins, just for the experience!
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:25 AM   #9
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Both fuse sides look identical. But when the instructions call for a "crack" at wing saddle longeron to start the "slimmer" part of the fuse.
Whats a good technique to do this??
...maybe scoring slightly with knife behind or at former placement then bend & crack for a exact crack placement? (im laughing too at my last few words ) Should I wet the balsa at the location of the crack? (im dying now.. ) Seriously though.....probably sillyest question ever!! just don't want to break/crack it too much??

cr


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Old 02-18-2013, 08:06 AM   #10
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Yes, CR, your s.w.a.g. is how its done; a very shallow score with a very sharp fresh blade at the point of the bend, both top and bottom stringers, then gently bend till the fibers start to pull apart at the score. Once both sides are done, square up the formers ahead of the crack and glue in place, before attempting to pull the tail sides together. Glue the tail edges only when you are completely sure that they are exactly centered on the fuse. after that is done, you finally reinforce the cracked area with a drop of thin CA at each stressed point. There, all done! :-)
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:05 PM   #11
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Thanks for the technique explanation, Brad. Just sanding now before assembly.

cr
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:06 AM   #12
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Got a little more done, but made a big mistake on the cowl ribs and the no.1 cowl face plate, so beginning process of cutting ribs and refitting.
Guess I was going too fast. Not sure if just cutting will make it look better, might just have to rip it all out and start from scratch!! Pretty big mistake.
Denny explained about how you can carefully heat up glue joints with heat gun, but I have been able to "break and saw" the joints with a new no.9 blade fairly easily.

Made the wingtip washout jigs, got the wings joined and fitted to wing saddle, had to sand down the wing dowels quite alot for them to fit into the holes(extremely tight fit).
Also I might have sanded down the LE too much, the curved pieces that come off of Header 4(in-line with LE) on the fuse are bigger than the LE wing cross-section. (though on second thought, they were quite a bit bigger than the original stock piece).
Definitely gonna be my "special version" TaylorCraft! Probably just sand down flush to match, but that might change the way windshield acetate fits. Maybe it won't be too bad, but still double ugh

Dry fitted the tail feathers, kinda "scared" to glue anything together, figuring better to cover first, then assemble. I knew there was going to be a lot of sanding, but......sanding has created a small mole hill of shavings in trashcan. lol

Kinda of a side note, I am pleasantly suprised how "quick" the yellow wood glue sets up when mixed with just a drop or two of water. Wood just soaks it up. I have only used med. CA just a couple times and I still covered it with just a little dab of yellow glue. IMVVHO I'm not going to use it (unless instructions call for it)other than to lash the struts, jury struts to the wing per instructions.

I do plan to use TOW and epoxy on LG. Also I might add one 1/16"sq. inside the wing close to the end of the ribs.

Of course, first time doing this, but I am really amazed how "strong" the fuse is, haven't weighed it yet but its extremely light.

As per all the electronics, just gonna follow what Pat and others have done, simple for me.
No Vrrrooommmm yet.

cr


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Old 03-10-2013, 06:21 PM   #13
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Finished Skylight, Cowl, Battery Hatch, LG and Nose & motor-mount re-done and fitted.
Elevator needed just a bit of shim to be straight-n-level.

included pic of the original full scale and article....


date given was wrong , 9/9/69 is correct.


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Old 04-05-2013, 06:25 PM   #14
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Tritle kits are not designed as beginner's kits. There is usually no instruction booklet, and little how-to info on the plans. The balsa sticks and laser cut balsa part sheets are sometimes very soft and flimsy. For kits like this I often replace balsa stringers with same size bass wood stringers. This makes model less subject to damage from handling. Using basswood stringers on rear fuselage makes tail heavier and you may need to compensate with locating battery pack more foreward or adding nose ballast.
Thicker landing gear wire and some beefing up of landing gear mounting may be a good idea. Try to keep all-up weight down. You may need to raise trailing edge of wing tips about 1/8" to prevent "tip stalls" When built light and straight, Tritle designs fly slowly and scale-like, with little landing damage.
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Old 04-05-2013, 07:24 PM   #15
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E-Challenged, Thank you sir for the tips. On the wing tips, TE did warp up just a bit during H9 parklite covering. Both TE tips did this, but very close in symmetry.
With about 70% of covering done and minus the motor,esc and battery, Im at 4.2oz. I'm shooting for 12oz.
IMO instructions were good,(7 pgs.). Yeah I did make a few mistakes during interpretation, and I was told to do a "Tele" first, but this kit really isn't that bad IMVHO.
I messed up on the cowl, but happy with it on second go around. Been learning as I go, but gardening and honey-do's have slowed my progress a bit!

With the help of my local hobby guy, I bought some better balsa, better looking grain and seems to be stiffer in his opinion. I'll upload some pics later. Servos installed and the pull-pull system was fairly straight forward in its explaination. Vertical stab strength scares me a bit, thought I seen somewhere, strings being used for stability. Not sure on the process.

I was kinda wondering about LG, but its soldered and in place. Wouldn't be too much trouble to cut covering a bit and beef that part of the fuse up a bit. What do you recommend?

cr

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Old 04-06-2013, 05:06 AM   #16
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Hopefully, my next one will look better, couple LE air bubbles still need popped.
The slight reverse curve on fuse behind skylight was a sob, still looks bad on one side and the aft fuse is not too good.
Started underneath, then sides, then top. Covered the fuse in 4 pieces of H9 parklite, next time might make it 8.

Probably the worst warp is at the 4th rib from tip and TE. I read on a old thread where gramps posted to heat opposite side to "pull" warp out, it helped but still not straight, maybe little more heat?? I'm at 258deg with no sock.

After about 5min or so, my "nervousness" about covering let up a bit and I took off the "sock". I read somewhere that some don't even use socks??? It seems to fit me for now as long as I keep iron moving.

still going......

cr


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