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Old 02-27-2013, 01:15 PM   #1
flyer103
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Default New scratchbuilder here

Hi folks,
I'm new to wattflyer and thought I'd introduce myself. I started flying back in the late 80s and have been easing back into the hobby for some time. I'm from the old days of brushed motors and nicads . But I'm learning a lot about the new technologies available. I think my first major project will be to retrofit my scratchbuilt 1/4 scale Andreason BA4-B with a brushless system. I'm looking forward to enjoying this site.
Thanks!
Gene


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Old 02-27-2013, 02:51 PM   #2
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Welcome! Nice looking plane you got there

Dave
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:08 PM   #3
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Nice Model Gene. If she flew on NiCad/NiMh, she'll be way better on brushless.

Idle thought - if you had a NiMh pack in there that you charged in the model, you might want to research A123 cells. LiPo packs are great, but you really want to be able to get them out easily for re-charging. Sure you've heard the horror stories about LiPos getting upset and doing a good impersonation of blowing up?

Noticed the KRC 97 sticker on your Andreason. Surprised I missed her, I was at that event. Back then, I was only flying ten cell/AF035G powered models but saw Keith Shaw fly his MaxCim powered Heinkel 35 low wing aerobatic scale model. KRC 98, I was there with my Maxcim powered 20 cell Four Star 40 conversion. Great event, was sad to see it go.

Good luck with the upgrade

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Old 02-27-2013, 08:50 PM   #4
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Thanks for the kind words from both of you (dgjessing and dereck).

The model originally flew on Sanyo 1700SCRCs with the black label. By today's standards that's pretty primitive. One thing that is not readily apparent from the photo is that the model is built like a giant free flight model. It's ridiculously light. Can't remember the figures off hand, but wingloading was akin to what you see with sailplanes.

Battery insertion/removal is via the cockpit. It's a snap and I don't think LiPos would pose any problem. That being said I'm somewhat torn between updating the Andy or just starting a brand new project. You know how it is, so many cool projects out there waiting to be done.

For the next several months though my modeling will be limited to free flight, as I will be traveling extensively with my job. But hey, gotta pay the bills ya know.

Thanks again

Gene
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:47 AM   #5
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Great to have more scratch builders here. That's also one of the best looking Andreason's I've ever seen. The scheme really makes a model, and that scheme compliments the model well.
I started right at the tail end of the old heavy nicads and brushed motors. Wish I could have all the $$ back that I spent on that gear, but there is definitely a value in learning how to make the planes fly with the heavier gear. I'm sure you're really enjoying the light lipos and bl motors, after doing it the old way.
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Old 02-28-2013, 09:47 AM   #6
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My word... Quite the beautiful bird you've got there!

And yes, welcome, velcome to our humble abode! Not too many of us out there, so we must stick together!

The world could certainly do with more pictures of that lovely bipe too...

Whaaa?
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:57 PM   #7
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Welcome. Cool plane.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:48 PM   #8
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Thanks guys,

The covering is white micafilm and the blue trim is metallic blue chevron perfect paint. I built it back in about 1995 and the covering looks just like it did when I first tightened it. I LOVE micafilm but now it seems very hard to get and quite expensive when you do find it. But I hear that a product called Fibafilm is very similar if not the same stuff. I may have to try it out.

Thinking about tackling a 1/5 scale Ganagobie for electric R/C. That's another one that I always thought was a really neat plane.

Best
Gene
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:04 AM   #9
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Welcome Gene ,like Bill said it's nice to see another builder on the site . I like building weird stuff so this is my build for this summer i think. joe


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Old 03-03-2013, 03:00 AM   #10
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welcome. i am also new to the site and hobby. would love to build one day when i can land with out breaking stuff. until then epoxy and foamies are my way of flying with no real instruction or guidence haha just throw it up and learn from my mistakes has actually worked very well for me!! nice lookkng plane you have also ! cheers!
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:14 AM   #11
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Have you heard of Doculam? Not sure how it compares to Micafilm but it seems to be gaining popularity with builders and I've heard much more good than bad.

http://www.laminatorwarehouse.com/la...oss_PET_100681

I've never used it but I plan to on my Astro Hog. It apparently covers clear and takes paint extraordinarily well; Which makes it great for models with more complex schemes. Other things I've heard (though I can't personally confirm) is that it's really tough, doesn't sag, and it does your taxes while cooking you breakfast!

And you certainly can't beat the price. Though I'll gladly eat those words if I'm wrong...

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Old 03-03-2013, 02:37 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by spitfire View Post
Have you heard of Doculam? Not sure how it compares to Micafilm but it seems to be gaining popularity with builders and I've heard much more good than bad.

http://www.laminatorwarehouse.com/la...oss_PET_100681

I've never used it but I plan to on my Astro Hog. It apparently covers clear and takes paint extraordinarily well; Which makes it great for models with more complex schemes. Other things I've heard (though I can't personally confirm) is that it's really tough, doesn't sag, and it does your taxes while cooking you breakfast!

And you certainly can't beat the price. Though I'll gladly eat those words if I'm wrong...
I was going to use Doculam on my big seaplane but chickened out at the last minute and paid big for 8 rolls of regular covering. joe
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:54 PM   #13
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Gene, I noticed you're from GA. If you can find the time, please try to make it to SEFF in Americus, GA in late April. There will be many scratch builders there and the largest gathering of electric planes you'll probably ever see in one place. It's an annual pilgrimage for many of us from across the country.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:58 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Murman View Post
Gene, I noticed you're from GA. If you can find the time, please try to make it to SEFF in Americus, GA in late April. There will be many scratch builders there and the largest gathering of electric planes you'll probably ever see in one place. It's an annual pilgrimage for many of us from across the country.
Murman,

Thanks, but I'm currently on tour with the Collings Foundation - a non-profit that travels the country in WWII aircraft. I'll be gone most of the year.

SEFF sounds like a neat event and I hope to attend sometime in the future. Years ago I did make it to two of the KRC events which was similar in size and scope of SEFF.

Gene
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:22 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I was going to use Doculam on my big seaplane but chickened out at the last minute and paid big for 8 rolls of regular covering. joe
You should always be careful with water-touching machines

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=28

That's something to note about the stuff. Like he said, it works in your favor for getting air pockets out, but you have to make sure the paint seals off the covering, I.E. No cheating and flying your pseudo-invisible plane on the water.

Sorry for the threadjack...

Whaaa?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by spitfire View Post
You should always be careful with water-touching machines

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...1&postcount=28

That's something to note about the stuff. Like he said, it works in your favor for getting air pockets out, but you have to make sure the paint seals off the covering, I.E. No cheating and flying your pseudo-invisible plane on the water.

Sorry for the threadjack...
I fiberglass the bottom and up the sides about 3 inches higher than the water line on my seaplanes and then water proof paint.The red white and blue one is 15 years old and the red and white one is 16 years old with now water yet. Thanks for the warning tho. joe


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Old 03-04-2013, 12:58 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I fiberglass the bottom and up the sides about 3 inches higher than the water line on my seaplanes and then water proof paint.The red white and blue one is 15 years old and the red and white one is 16 years old with now water yet. Thanks for the warning tho. joe
Hmm... In the first revision of that post I said glassing would be a good idea... I guess brevity won over informative.

Oh well, I won't pretend to know anything about those water-floaty things anymore.

So you really where just chicken!

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Old 03-04-2013, 02:14 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by spitfire View Post
Hmm... In the first revision of that post I said glassing would be a good idea... I guess brevity won over informative.

Oh well, I won't pretend to know anything about those water-floaty things anymore.

So you really where just chicken!
If you want to learn about RC seaplanes go to the master himself.
http://www.ivansplans.com/ check out this site also http://www.seawings.co.uk/
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:35 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by flyer103 View Post
Hi folks,
I'm new to wattflyer and thought I'd introduce myself. I started flying back in the late 80s and have been easing back into the hobby for some time. I'm from the old days of brushed motors and nicads . But I'm learning a lot about the new technologies available. I think my first major project will be to retrofit my scratchbuilt 1/4 scale Andreason BA4-B with a brushless system. I'm looking forward to enjoying this site.
Thanks!
Gene
Hey, beautiful model !!!!

If this is your first electric conversion, rest assured that a quality electric power system can easily equal the performance of an appropriate glow engine power system. Only difference is the glow engine can fly for twice the time of the electric systems, like 6-8 minutes versus 10 or 12 for glow.

Just my opinion, but models of this type deserve a quality motor and ESC system, not some bottom of the barrel cheap import. (I'm known for being a Hacker fan, with 8 of them in my collection from the A30's to a pair of A60's)

Here are a few threads on this type of subject.
Thread on 70 size glow engine conversion to electric
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45222

Hacker 6S2P A123 powered Models
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44686

Hangar 9 Kantana Model
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68844

AEAJR's Site on Electric Power
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18521

DennyV
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:37 AM   #20
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Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the info. I'll have a look.
Gene
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:39 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by flyer103 View Post
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the info. I'll have a look.
Gene
Hi Gene
Let us know if you've got questions, we're all here to help!

DennyV

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Old 03-04-2013, 11:49 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
Hi Gene
Let us know if you've got questions, we're all here to help!

DennyV
Thanks! The help is very much appreciated. And your point about motors is well taken. I can't believe how many choices there are out there. And I definitely want to find a quality one. I spent way too much time building the Andreason to put something cheap in there.

Sadly, it will be a little while before I can do any of this because of work. But it's at the top of my "fun" list.

Best regards
Gene
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:57 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by flyer103 View Post
Thanks! The help is very much appreciated. And your point about motors is well taken. I can't believe how many choices there are out there. And I definitely want to find a quality one. I spent way too much time building the Andreason to put something cheap in there.

Sadly, it will be a little while before I can do any of this because of work. But it's at the top of my "fun" list.

Best regards
Gene
Work (I forgot about what work is, been retired for five years now!)

What is the wingspan, wing area, and weight of your model with the receiver/servos, but without the motor/ESC/Battery?

For the most part, these models like a minimum of 100 watts per pound of model weight, including the motor/ESC/Battery. IMHO, 130 or 150 watts per pound is even better.

Those Hacker motors are quality items, and not much more expensive than the higher quality off brand names. I've got 8 Hackers, one A30, two A40's, three A50's, and two A60's. Nice thing about the Hackers, their specifications are accurate, and they will perform per their specs while running at reasonable temperatures. The larger Hackers such as the A50 series are near 90% efficient. https://www.aero-model.com/8_69/Moto...50-Series.html

The A50's are good for about 1200 watts or so, the A60's are good for about 2500 watts or so. I've got a Hacker A60-16M motor in a Giant Big Stick with a 19X12 APC-E (Electric) prop. This works out to 80 inch wingspan, 1500 square inches, 150 Watts per pound of airplane at 16 pounds. The motor is pulling 2500 watts, turning that 19 inch propeller at 6700 RPM on the ground, and 7200 RPM in the air. That power system will haul that 16 pound model straight up out of sight.

The battery pack is an A123 system, with 12S2P (12 series, 2 parallel) 2300 Milliampere hour cells. A123's are heavier than LiPos, but they can be recharged in 15 minutes with a high power charger, and they last a LONG LONG time. I've got 5 year old battery packs with over 300 flights that perform exactly as when they were brand new. Problem is you pretty much have to build up your battery pack yourself. Buying one ready to go is expensive. The A123 cells are $9.99 each from a USA supplier.

Also check out one of those computer programs for electric powered model airplanes such as www.motocalc.com, free for 30 days, then $39, IMHO will worth it on a project such as yours.

DennyV
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