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Old 04-19-2013, 06:54 PM   #1
jollycub01
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Default Conversion of Kadet Senior to electric What motor mount

I am converting a Kadet Senior to electric and would like to know what kind of motor mount to use. Should I use aluminum standoffs, or should I use a motor box style mount? I have a lot of dead weight behind the firewall to balance it and would like to use the motor, batteries and speed controller for balance. Right now, the center of the engine sits at about 2.5 inches in front of the firewall. Can I use standoffs that are 3 or 4 inches without a problem with twisting or vibration? This would give me additional leveraged weight as well as actual weight. I could also mount the speed control on the standoffs for weight. I plan to cut a slot in the top of the firewall for the batteries. Overall I am hoping to take the lead out and use existing parts for balance.

The engine on it now is an OS .46 and I am converting it to the following:

Turnigy G46 Brushless Outrunner 550kv (.46 Glow)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23321


Turnigy dlux 55A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18921

Turnigy 3600mAh 5S 30C lipos
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14968

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:40 AM   #2
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Depends on how far you need to space the motor from the firewall.

up to 1 inch use standoffs every time

If the spacing needed is over 2X the distance between the bolts that will be used you really need a box or a solid block.

For balsa blocks... look for the balsa block scrap bags. Each bag has different blocks. I've gotten pieces up to 4 X 4 X 8 inch from these bags.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTNB0&P=0
Cap with 1/8 to 1/4 ply depending on the motor (and your level of paranoia)
If you want to work that hard you can hollow the block to save weight or make room for lead in the nose.

In between its debatable, but I will go to the box or the block if there's any doubt about the motor mount being stable.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:40 AM   #3
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Esprit Model has a nice system of motor mounts with customizable configuration.

http://www.espritmodel.com/universal...num-mount.aspx
http://www.espritmodel.com/hd-univer...num-mount.aspx
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:11 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by jollycub01 View Post
I am converting a Kadet Senior to electric and would like to know what kind of motor mount to use. Should I use aluminum standoffs, or should I use a motor box style mount? I have a lot of dead weight behind the firewall to balance it and would like to use the motor, batteries and speed controller for balance. Right now, the center of the engine sits at about 2.5 inches in front of the firewall. Can I use standoffs that are 3 or 4 inches without a problem with twisting or vibration? This would give me additional leveraged weight as well as actual weight. I could also mount the speed control on the standoffs for weight. I plan to cut a slot in the top of the firewall for the batteries. Overall I am hoping to take the lead out and use existing parts for balance.

The engine on it now is an OS .46 and I am converting it to the following:

Turnigy G46 Brushless Outrunner 550kv (.46 Glow)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23321


Turnigy dlux 55A SBEC Brushless Speed Controller
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18921

Turnigy 3600mAh 5S 30C lipos
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14968

Thanks

Some of my models with Hacker A50 series motors have an extension of two inches using eight 1/2 inch OD by 1 inch long nylon spacers with #10 holes through the middle. Use flat washers on both sides of the #10-32 fine thread screws in front and back of the original firewall mount. And use locktite on the threads.

Or, build up a box using 3/16 ply on the left and right sides, and 1/16 top and bottom. This box can be bolted to the original firewall with long 8-32 screws. The box can be drilled out with a bunch of holes to save weight.

Those aluminum stand-offs look very nice, and the price is reasonable to.

If you need dead weight, you might consider building up a 6S2P A123 pack. This pack will weigh in at about 30 ounces without wiring. Nice thing about the A123 cells, they can be built into your model and left there. They have zero fire hazard. And, they can be charged at very high rates. I'm charging my many 6S2P packs at 19 Amps with a Cellpro Powerlab 8 charger. That results in a recharge time of 12-15 minutes.

If you're interested, these cells are available for $9.99 per cell from a USA supplier, I've got wiring info on how to wire one up. These cells last a long long time.

DennyV
Retired and the days are just too short, busier than ever!
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:45 PM   #5
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I had to extend one a bit further than I was comfy with on just a long standoff, and I wanted to shift the bolt pattern around a bit to raise the motor, so I ran standoffs out to an aluminum plate, then standoffs from that out to the motor mount.

You could do the same thing with 2 1-inch standoffs with a 2 inch bolt, with the plate in between the 2 standoffs.

Ask me why your DX5e is doomed... and how to fix it.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:37 PM   #6
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Just so you know that I am not a hit and run poster, I am currently working on my Senior and will let you know what I did. I am moving the landing gear foreward to make it a tail dragger,
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:27 PM   #7
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http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/pro...roducts_id=411 joe
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:17 AM   #8
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goood ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:17 PM   #9
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The innovative looks nice except I believe there could be some left/right movement without a diagonal from side to side (front to back).
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:40 PM   #10
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Yeah, I can't say what brand it was but I have seen pictures of these adjustable sheet metal motor mounts that have suffered fatigue cracks with high output systems.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:45 PM   #11
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I would buy one and put a couple extra braces on it so it did not move . The round stand offs will do the same thing from tork after a while. A couple pieces of flat stock bolted to the sides should do it. joe
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:49 PM   #12
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Lots of good ideas here on how to mount your motor

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39483

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 04-29-2013, 02:56 AM   #13
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Simple, reasonably light and cheap = Balsa block capped with ply (maybe hollowed out)

And it works every time it is tried...

As for the aluminum commercial mount... depending on the aluminum used it may be quite stable. Or it could be like the similar mount in Dynam's 1250mm P-51 and allow lots of movement when the prop is out of balance. (getting out a balsa block and some ply to fix that...)
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