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Old 08-13-2013, 10:03 PM   #26
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Good job Nigel. You almost inspire me to drag out the Sterling J3 I've had sitting in the box for over 40 years, and try to convert it to electric. With foam reinforcements it might work pretty well, except for the 30" wingspan. You definitely haven't inspired me to purchase the HK version. If I'm going to pop for a kit, I'd like something that's well thought out and makes life easier. Doesn't sound like HK qualifies. Might as well build from plans. I do like your approach with keeping the power minimal though. One of my RC pet peeves is the way so many models are over-powered. Why build a scale J3 that flies like a P-51? Illusion totally ruined! Why build a scale ANYTHING that is grossly overpowered? Anyone who has ever flown an airplane like a J3 quickly becomes aware that it is a ballet about power management, with stick-and-rudder skills heading the bill. I realize that with the down-scale factor of our models the realism, and replication of the handling qualities of the real thing, cannot be totally achieved, but being more conservative with weight and power choices can go a long way towards getting there. I watch a lot of videos where pilots with big beautiful (and expensive) models botch landings and incur damage, and most often I would have to say it's because they don't understand how important a controlled and consistent approach is to getting a good landing. They are too used to having gobs of power to haul themselves out of trouble. Can't wait to hear how she flies
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:45 PM   #27
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The HK J3 in fact is a nice looking model - its just the build of it needs thought to sort the areas that kit factory forgot about !

OK ...



Ailerons cut out ... again another area that needs sorting. They give you excellent hard stock to face them with - but that adds 6mm to the width ... so I cut of that amount from the TE of them .... then glued the facing on.



Here's where I sorted my interpretation of braces ...



Wing tips ... they do not line up if you use the gussets as supplied ... so I tacked the curved tip sections in place ... then trimmed the outer of the gussets ... glued in place ...







So other ends with braces about to be joined ...



Wings joined and glue setting ... gap in centre due to slightly out of line ribs ... typical of me !! Will be infilled ...



Leading Edge sanded ...



Quick look at cosmetics I started ...



The problem is how to fix the glazing in place as the sides and formers are not all same level etc. They will have to be surface mounted on outside ... not my favourite way.

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Old 08-14-2013, 03:15 PM   #28
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So Nigel, at this point are you still convinced this kit is worth the cost, considering it's faults, and the fact that you also have to supply your own covering, hardware, AND UNDERCARRIAGE?
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:35 PM   #29
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Most kits have faults in the eye of the builder buts thats part of the fun making it yours by fixing them . Given the problems of building any kit verses buying a piece of from china i will buy the kit or balsa to build my own always. Since i have had or built most of all the reg cubs i have been thinking of buying the cub tri pacer short kit from Pat Trittle .Its a 50 inch wingspan and a great looking bird plus there is no arf of it that i know of.lol Here is his FUN build thread. I rarely buy any kit but pats are very light and fly very well . joe http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1129562
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:55 PM   #30
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I think about Pat's kits myself, when I see them in Flying Models. Maybe when I get a bit more flying experience under my belt. He and his cronies fly from the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta park, a great flying venue. I'm too busy (and too lazy) to drive the 75 miles to join them.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:19 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by maxflyer View Post
I think about Pat's kits myself, when I see them in Flying Models. Maybe when I get a bit more flying experience under my belt. He and his cronies fly from the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta park, a great flying venue. I'm too busy (and too lazy) to drive the 75 miles to join them.
He does not sound like he is clicky in his posts and i would like to meet him or fly there with them but since i live far away its probly never going to happen and i can enjoy building one of his desighns. There are only a hand full of kit or plan desighners i would build from and they know how to build very light, Ivans plans and Pats models are at the top of the list. joe
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:53 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by maxflyer View Post
So Nigel, at this point are you still convinced this kit is worth the cost, considering it's faults, and the fact that you also have to supply your own covering, hardware, AND UNDERCARRIAGE?
For a builder like myself who has most of the other items spare in box / on bench ... why not ? It's only a little over $20 for the kit ... and in my kit -the wood selection is as good as any other kit I see today.

Covering - never had a kit that supplies that.
Hardware - many kits hardware is scrap end-of line junk anyway.

My usual kits would cost over $150 for a box of die-cut / laser-cut wood without covering anyway ... OK yes - you would usually get the wire parts and wheels ... but how much is that anyway ?

Given kit cost, incl. shipping and other parts I ordered with it, (motor, ESC etc.) ... + my bench spare bits ... I reckon overall is about $60 or so ... for a reasonable scale'ish J3 of 1180mm span, 780mm LOA.

I look on this kit as a replacement for a ARF / RTF / Foamie that has come to its end ... rip out the 9gr servos, Rx, LiPo, motor etc. and stick it in this.
Given that undercarriage is easily made from bicycle spokes that cost about 5 cents .... ?? Couple of wheels ?

Yes - it's a very poor instructions ... but the laser cutting is good for 95% of the kit ...

There's ample spare wood in the kit to make up slack areas ...

I am really looking forward to this going in the air ... and I think she will fly well.

I think the difference comes down to my willingness and hobby of BUILDING my models ... OK I accept that this one is frustrating at times .... but I reckon I can solve those and get her in the air.

Imagine the satisfaction I will feel when she lifts of for that first time ...

My thread here is to help anyone else looking at building this model ...

Nigel

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Old 08-14-2013, 11:21 PM   #33
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No attempt here to dis your build. You're covering it well. Just trying to get a sense of whether or not you might have had regrets after starting this one. I hadn't noticed until just now, how inexpensive it is. That certainly excuses it's faults to a large degree. I suppose the laser cut parts and quality wood alone make it worthwhile. Being new to RC-sized models and their current kit prices, I think I was expecting fewer faults and a higher price. It was only after following the link and seeing the price that I really understood why one would accept it's shortcomings. Actually...it's more in the price range of past and present free-flight rubber models!
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:19 AM   #34
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Max..... no problem and you make valid point. This kit us definitely not for the new guy.... it needs someone who has built before to be able to sort the deficiencies.

I believe the kit is actually a hand-over from another brand name - so has a history. For $20 odd you certainly get a good rendition of the J3 and leaving out the metal and hardware keeps weight / price down.just a shame that instructions which initially appear good are in reality poor.

Today I am hoping to finish construction and get her covered. I will also visit my fav decal shop to get the decals for her printed up.

Radio installation is the job I hate! But has to be done! I'm managing thus while minding the 4 dogs, 3 cats and 2 rabbits while wife away on holiday! The youngest dog - 3 months - insists on destroying everything when left alone! Already lost 2 mobile phone charger leads as well as loads of other stuff!

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Old 08-15-2013, 04:39 PM   #35
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Moving on .... here we see the too large a gap in front of wing ..



So scrap infill ..



Sand it back ..



Rails fitted to carry servo plates .. scrap ply with scrap balsa under.



Check fit



Now we are covering wing and we must remember to sort servo leads through ribs before final !



Standard 9gr jobs



View from top ... I chose to lengthen the leads instead of plugging ext's..



Top now covered as well ..



Servos ready for plate fitting





Servos fitted (servo taped to plates) ..



Ailerons hinged with my preferred mylar strip and then covering film closes the gap top and bottom ..





Check fit and time to see model coming alive ... (still to sort control rods and internal servos etc. and those ******** windows !!



She has a little more dihedral than I would have designed in ... but at least this will make her a sweet flyer I hope. The real J3 is no aerobat - so this one will not be out of form.

Tomorrow I collect the vinyls to apply to her for cosmetics ...

Feeling quite pleased with results so far ...

Nigel

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Old 08-15-2013, 05:08 PM   #36
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Looking good Nigel! And don't worry about the aerobatics. I have 40 hours of J4 time (the Cub Coupe), running both the 65 hp and 75 hp engines. Most of the time it was a struggle just to make enough altitude to clear the terrain, much less do aerobatics!
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:18 PM   #37
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I think you covered your use of the Mylar hinges in another post somewhere. Could you reiterate how you use them? Assuming you cement them to the surfaces? I would have guessed that Mylar would be subject to cracking after a time.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #38
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Mylar hinges ..... I buy flat sheet of Ebay ... each sheet about 5" x 3" .... 5 sheets in a pack. Enough to last me a year or so !

I just cut strips of about 1/4" up to 1/3" depending on model size and length about 1/2" to 3/4".

With todays models being light - I just slot with model knife and epoxy the strips half into the surface ... let cure ... then slot and epoxy to other part. Before epoxy has fully set - I run a blade across the hinges both sides to stop any excess glue forming a bridge. Once set - I flex the surfaces to get them working.
I have never had a strip crack or fail yet other than pull out of foam.

It used to be normal before to pin the strip as well ...

Nigel

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Old 08-16-2013, 11:15 AM   #39
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Wing fixing .... I have elected to have two bolts at rear and two pegs at front ...

I use metal captive nuts ... the metal bolts are purely used to pull the captive nuts into place ... in actual use - I use nylon bolts so they shear of before wing destroys !











Wings a snug secure fit ...

Onto radio gear .. servos.

I broke a push rod trying to negotiate the fuselage, so in the end changed to nyrod snakes ...



With covering fairing in the tail exits ... (bit rougher than I like - but will do for temp till I sort out later ...)



Wings with conventional rods ..



I will have to salvage a Rx from somewhere ... while I wait for HK to send on my latest order ... and once in - see what size LiPo needed to balance her. The ESC will be a HK 25A basic job with BEC.

I left the window problem till last - it also allows me to get my hands in to install the gear ...

Still haven't figured out how I will fix the glazing yet.

Nigel

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Old 08-16-2013, 05:38 PM   #40
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Here she is in temp RTG form while I wait for my wing struts and landing gear cross wire material .....

I used a temp fix for the windows at present while I figure it out !! Combination of contact glue and clear tape ...













Now have to find that perfect day to give her a maiden !

Nigel

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Old 08-17-2013, 11:23 AM   #41
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They say Necessity is the Mother of Invention.

So fed up looking at the wing as is ... I decided to make my struts out of alternative material ...

BBQ skewers
Electrical connection crimps
Heat shrink




Crimp on terminals for screws to secure to wing spars.



Cut and CA small triangles at fuselage end... attach terminal hook, buind with thread, smear epoxy over all ends to harden up.



Heat shrink tube over skewers ..



Test fit ... then remove once screw holes made ... drop in CA to harden threads cut into spars ....







Nigel

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Old 08-17-2013, 01:37 PM   #42
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Very Nice!
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Old 08-17-2013, 03:20 PM   #43
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Tks riverrat .... was beginning to think I was alone !!

I just hope she flies as well as she looks.

CoG ... she balances with 1300 up to incl. 2200 3S ... even an 800 is still within acceptable range.

Nigel

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Old 08-18-2013, 10:12 AM   #44
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Hopefully today she gets her maiden - IF the wind holds of ... we have a couple hours window according to Windguru ...

Video if she does ..

Nigel

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Old 08-18-2013, 01:31 PM   #45
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No such luck .... wind was picking up on way to site ... by time I unloaded car it was too much for the Cub.

Nigel

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Old 08-18-2013, 05:45 PM   #46
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Sorry Nigel, even though its sport/scale I can't let you rest until you get some covers on those gear legs and some bungees underneath. It's too "un-Cubbish" without them. Good luck on the maiden.
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:08 PM   #47
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Maxflyer ....... no need to apologise ! It is planned to do this.

I am waiting for the trace wire to arrive so I can do the U/C cross wires. The 'bulges' on the wires ... needs thought.

Any suggestions ?

Local fishing shops do not have trace wire reels and crimps as I want ... and I also cannot get music wire ...

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Old 08-18-2013, 10:11 PM   #48
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Geeze...that's harder than it looks. Was hoping you would tell me. Obviously you want to keep some flex in the gear legs. I think you would have to go for illusion, not function. I might wrap and glue a CF rod to each of the gear legs at the axle end. The top of each rod would ride in a slot or hole on the opposite fuselage underside, allowing it to move in and out of the fuselage as the legs flexed. Obviously, you can't actually tie them together where they cross. They would just rub against each other. The black bags covering the two bungees could simply be a couple of pieces of foam...or a couple of unused cigarette filters, slid over the rods, glued in place, and painted black. The real things are only roughly symmetrical - almost just black masses really. Then again, maybe the whole thing would turn out to be too delicate, and you will be right back where you are now!
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:52 AM   #49
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Nigel,she's looking real nice and I'm sure she'll fly the same.

i built the Sig/Herr 48"ws cub as my 2nd kit build but never put the struts on it. clearly they make the cub look better and the way you did it was great. i have skews,elec eyelet connector sitting in a drawer. the cubs been a wall hanging for years now but with a new tx coming and more model memory...you motivated me to get her going to the field again. it needs wheels and a rx.other wise she is ready....but must put struts on.

wait for a nice day to maiden her,better safe than sorry for the first flight,after that throw caution to the wind and just have fun!

narrow is the place to land...wide is the space to crash....choose the narrow way!
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Old 08-19-2013, 06:55 AM   #50
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For the U/C cross pieces - I will use wire trace going from each rod joint near the wheels... across and up to post front leg. the bungee part is the one I haven't decided yet. I don't want it too bulky as drag is a killer. I thought about foam then black heat shrink over.... the heat shrink tightening the foam onto the wire trace. Another way would be thick short pieces of drinking straw fixed and then painted.
I am not a CF rod person and for this job really cannot see its needed. Wire trace is far more forgiving and easier to fit. The cross can be a 'squeeze' of tape across the two.

Stuart - wall hanger planes! Tut tut! C'mon get it down and sort it out!

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Nigel

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