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Old 06-04-2013, 02:40 AM   #1
drummaker
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Default sig four star 20

Just some pics of my third build. I love this plane. I went with a 500 watt 1450 kv motor but proped it down to about 420. Haven,t flown it yet. Tomorrow probably


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Old 06-04-2013, 09:59 AM   #2
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Sounds like almost .40 class power on a .20 size plane. Should be fun.
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:39 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
Sounds like almost .40 class power on a .20 size plane. Should be fun.
sig calls for 350 so it is not that overpowered..

Though this is 3d level power.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:14 PM   #4
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It is an awesome airplane for sure.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
It is an awesome airplane for sure.
I have high hopes

I always get so nervous when I maiden. it looks so pretty to me. It would be gross to crash it right away
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Old 06-04-2013, 03:19 PM   #6
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They are very tame and predictable.

Here is mine...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1315989

Still flies regularly ...
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #7
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Maiden'd my 4*20 a few weeks back. A tad too windy really, but that's all you get around Chicago. Set up as per kit, it took off and flew. Flight one, I did a couple of loops and rolls, stall and spin checks and a knife edge pass - not what I normally do on a test flight, but it just felt like I was right at home with this model.

I made a top battery access hatch, so I can use some 2600 packs I have that are too long for the kit's battery bay, plus I didn't care to have to invert the model to swap packs. I also put the aileron servos inside the wings, vice the kit's air-conditioned aileron servo setup.

Motor is an E Flite Power 15 on an 11 x 7 APC-E. Was a little worried about ground clearance with an 11" and the kit UC, but it handled our grass patch well enough.

You'll be fine on your test flights.
D


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Old 06-04-2013, 08:12 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
Maiden'd my 4*20 a few weeks back. A tad too windy really, but that's all you get around Chicago. Set up as per kit, it took off and flew. Flight one, I did a couple of loops and rolls, stall and spin checks and a knife edge pass - not what I normally do on a test flight, but it just felt like I was right at home with this model.

I made a top battery access hatch, so I can use some 2600 packs I have that are too long for the kit's battery bay, plus I didn't care to have to invert the model to swap packs. I also put the aileron servos inside the wings, vice the kit's air-conditioned aileron servo setup.

Motor is an E Flite Power 15 on an 11 x 7 APC-E. Was a little worried about ground clearance with an 11" and the kit UC, but it handled our grass patch well enough.

You'll be fine on your test flights.
D
I didn't make a top hatch, I opted for building a box which is accessed from the normal hatch which goes at an angle over the wing from there. It balanced out with a 2200 right on the spar with just a little down angle.

I have 2 main concerns. 1 I lost my aileron guage and have had to guess as too neutral. My experience with scratch built foamies tells me to make sure if I am wrong to have them angled up too much. so this doesn't scare me too much.
what scares me the most is that I have waited over a week and a half to maiden this and the wind still is averaging over 10. I fly in this all the time but I really really don't want to crash this plane right away. I am having a friend who is a great pilot maiden it for me.

anyway thanks for the comments.

Cole
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:15 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
They are very tame and predictable.

Here is mine...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1315989

Still flies regularly ...
I loved your review.. Still read it once in a while
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:45 PM   #10
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Don't be too afraid of the wind - it handles it well and does not "float" as much on landing with a nice headwind.

Mike
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:07 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
Don't be too afraid of the wind - it handles it well and does not "float" as much on landing with a nice headwind.

Mike

Home from the field. It flew really well. 2 clicks of aileron was all it took. Pierced the wind well, glided beautifly, landed lightly. And it will go fast. Unlimited verticle. I am going to dial up the throws to 100% for high rate next time... i am thrilled
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:25 AM   #12
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Congrats.
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:10 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by drummaker View Post
Home from the field. It flew really well. 2 clicks of aileron was all it took. Pierced the wind well, glided beautifly, landed lightly. And it will go fast. Unlimited verticle. I am going to dial up the throws to 100% for high rate next time... i am thrilled
Yup
The old days of "Underpowered Electric Models" are LONG GONE! Nowdays, it's easy to match or exceed the power of a glow engine with quality electric components. Only advantage glow has is longer flight duration.

Recently I was quite surprised to find that my Hacker A40-10L motor has about 30% more horses up front than a average 40 sized glow engine. This Hacker motor easily hauls my 5 pound Hanger 9 Twist model straight up, out of sight. And the Hacker motor isn't even running at its maximum rating.

Hanger 9 Twist 40 Model
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70548

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Old 06-05-2013, 04:10 AM   #14
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Good one Cole, congratulations on the test flight.

Aileron neutral without the kit trimming widget. Hold a ruler on the wingtip, from the centre of the LE to the centre of the TE. Line up the middle of the aileron end with the ruler.

Based on eleven years flying my now historical Four Star 40E, the layout leans to big props. My best prop on my FS40 was a 15 x 10. At 6000RPM and 600W, the 5.75lb model could do a knife edged loop pretty well.

Have the odd thought that the Four Star 20E tailplane is a little on the light side for manuevres involving high speed and snap roll type rotation.

Also, have never met or heard of anyone who didn't like their Four Star - that says volumes!

D
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Dereck View Post

Also, have never met or heard of anyone who didn't like their Four Star - that says volumes!
Agreed:
I had a 4*40 some years ago that was powered by an overweight Astroflight geared 40 motor and a 22 Cell Nicad battery pack. Even with that power system, it flew very well.

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Old 06-05-2013, 03:09 PM   #16
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I am, of course thinking about my next build. I have done a MM cub, a HOB t6 texan, and this 4* Oh and a bunch of dollar tree foamies

I would like to build a war bird and am getting really frustrated by the lack of balsa kits out there.

It seems like Mountain models and HOB might be done since no one who carries their products seem to be able to get them.

Anyone know of any electric war bird kits I should be looking at
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:05 AM   #17
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http://manzanolaser.com/html/warbirdkits.html War bird short kits . joe
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:07 AM   #18
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http://www.aerodromerc.com/ WW-1 birds
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:23 PM   #19
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Flys so well a monkey can do it!


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Old 06-10-2013, 01:17 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by stemo99 View Post
Flys so well a monkey can do it!
Very cool. I was actually looking for a little Chewbaka image and couldn't find the appropriate one.
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:19 PM   #21
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Does anyone know if spoilerons will help get this model down?
I love everything about this model except for how long an approach I need
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:55 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by drummaker View Post
Very cool. I was actually looking for a little Chewbaka image and couldn't find the appropriate one.
Check Pez
I use a lot of Pez heads in models about this scale.

Originally Posted by drummaker View Post
Does anyone know if spoilerons will help get this model down?
I love everything about this model except for how long an approach I need
Yes, spoilerons work to kill lift. This is not recommended for beginners to try. You can get in trouble quick.

Test the effects of your spoilerons with plenty of altitude and be ready to flip them back to normal flight setting. Get used to the differences in how it handles.

You can bring it in with a little power and keep the nose high to make it "parachute" down... no spoilerons needed.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:31 PM   #23
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I built mine with spoilers just in case. Sometimes they are used.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:14 PM   #24
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A Four Star floating on landing? Haven't heard of that much in the last four years...

My electrocuted 4*40 would amble down our entire field if I came in but a tad too fast. That was even when it weighed over six pounds on the standard wing. Clipping the wing and dropping to a mere 16 NiMh cells (only some 34oz of battery!) improved matters, but what really helped was defining the slowest idle setting that would just rotate the prop.

That caused the prop to create little thrust and a hefty amount of drag. The other trick is to slow down at a reasonable height, add a little up elevator trim and let the speed settle down in a slightly nose high attitude. With its fairly low AR and thick section, the Four Star can do this without getting too close to stalling. Descend to land by lowering power, then to that slow RPM setting when pointing at the runway.

Pushing the nose down causes the speed to rise and there she floats on past you!

I defer on 'spoilerons' though it strikes me that by the time you get the ailerons far enough down to cause enough drag to steepen the descent, they might not be working all that well for roll control. Spoilers, like wot glider guys use, or a short centre flap that goes down to close to 90 degrees - like the Top Flite Contender uses - strike me as a better idea.

D
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Old 06-11-2013, 02:08 AM   #25
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Spoilerons = pushing both ailerons up, forcing you to pitch the nose up and presenting the belly of the plane as one big airbrake.

I've done this with some Pattern designs. Since the ailerons were only about 50% to 60% span it was like putting in significant washout. It was almost impossible to make these planes drop a wing on landing approach.

Works fine with some models. I have never tried it with a FourStar (any size).
The negative issue I expect is the taper of the aileron changing the effective AOA of the tip less than at the root.
So, if it stalls with spoilerons up, I think it would drop a wing rather than mush straight ahead. Paying attention an experienced pilot should be able to handle this, but it can get a novice in trouble quickly.

roll control with the ailerons at full flap or full spoileron is not an issue. Just one aileron moves since the other will already be at end of travel range. You do have to beware of adverse yaw when using flaperons. When using large deflection spoilerons you get yaw in the direction you want to turn.
A local club member put a combo of spoilerons (upper) and flaperons) lower) on a giant "Beast" and had no issues with getting roll control while using this as an airbrake. (very effective at slowing the plane in vertical down lines)

The mixing possibilities of some modern radios are seemingly endless...
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