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Old 08-19-2013, 06:36 PM   #1
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Default Battery boxes - design or retail ?

I'm a great one for making what I need ... but somethings are better left to the 'factories' and this is one.

Skyartec produce a battery box that is sold as a spare part if needed ... plastic vented frame with hinged door and also reasonable push in undercarraige slot if wanted ...

Cost ? Under $3 + shipping. Available direct from Skyartec outlets or good ol' Hobby King.

The box will take any size up to 2200 3S standard packs and is secure.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...rSearch=deluxe 182#relprodspan_focus

Nigel

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Old 08-20-2013, 12:22 AM   #2
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at that price, buy a dozen of them Take care, Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 08-20-2013, 03:14 AM   #3
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All of my batteries get a strip of velcro (the scratchy part) and the planes get a strip of the wooly part in the "battery compartment" area. We don't need no stinkin' box .

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Old 08-20-2013, 03:26 AM   #4
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Default Battery Boxes

My son came to me with an idea for some battery boxes that he wanted me to 3D print for his slowstick. It took a long time for me to understand what he wanted me to build but when I fianally understood what he wanted, It was so simple, and yet so brilliant. I wondered why no one had thought of them before? They would be hard to make unless you had a 3D printer or an injection molding machine. When the owner of our lacol hobby shop saw them he asked me to make some for his hobby shop. We no longer use velcro and only one elastic. We can change out batterys in a fraction of the time it used to take and it is very secure. It is also very light. I will post pictures of them when I get home. They work like this. Picture the square slowstick front end. Take every thing off forward of the wing. Slide the on battery boxes with the cups facing each other. Now position the battery by putting the wires through the holes and position the battery in the cup. Now slide the other cup over the other end of the battery/cup. Now just put an elastic band over the two battery cups squeezing the battery inbetween the cups so the elastic band is at the top of the cups nearest the stick. Now connect up the wires and go fly. You wont even have to replace the elastic from this point on unless it gets damaged or worn. It is simple, lightweight, and quick and can be used on other airplanes too, just mount a stick where you want your battery to be. If anyone is interested I will make some available here.
I will put photos and an ad later.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:55 AM   #5
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only picture I have at the moment.
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:27 AM   #6
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My point in showing it ... many of our models have cut-outs into t5he foam or in scratchbuilds - we have an area that is basically bounded by the depron or floor foam we use. I'm talking full fuselage now - not profiles or sticks.

My SE5 has a habit of breaking the wall that keeps the LiPo in place .. then balance goes to cock. I am going to fit one of the boxes and that will cure not only my wayward hatch door but also the lipo will be secure without need for velcro / cups / bands etc. Simply drop in ... close door ... bingo.

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Old 08-21-2013, 02:16 AM   #7
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we have a version that mounts permently inside of the plane once you get your cg where you like it. we can also build replacement parts (including your hatch, canopys, fuse joiners, motor mounts, firewall act. anything you can make out of plastic)and upgrade/modify existing ones, like building a thicker "wall".
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:21 AM   #8
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Whichever is better for the model...

There are many possible answers to keeping the battery where you want it. No single answer is best for all models, even if you are limiting the models to those just using one size pack.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:30 AM   #9
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exactly. it is the differences between us that make this hobby so diverse. I might be the only one in the world that needs a 19x25mm bolt pattern for a motor mount, but it sure is nice to be able to build one.



I don't like the trap doors, delt with several. there's too many moving parts, and things to break. my battery box has no moving part, and using a rubber band is optional. the permently mounted set up was designed for people like me that have large hands and have a very hard time using velcro in such small battery boxes.
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Old 08-21-2013, 09:54 AM   #10
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I too have trouble with the Velcro inside battery boxes ... and often revert to padding out with sponge foam ...
What I hate is that many kits have the ventilated battery floor and they expect you to wrap the Velcro round / through that ... and as I've found - the slats then break when you have that crash that gets us all ...

What I like about this box - is it's simplicity, it's able to carry the LiPo's that are possibly the most common used - the 1000 -> 2100 3S without need for Velcro, bands, anything else. Basically drop it in place .. glue up and it's done.

It's durability has been proven to me by my use in the Cessna for 3 years and only days ago did the hinge break after a serious crash ... it's survived many before this. Repair - simple ... decent tape both sides to form a new hinge - back in biz !

All I'm doing is bringing to attention the box .. use or not - no problem - we all have our ideas and preferences.

For me ... $2 is less hassle than messing around rebuilding my formers in the SE5 !!

Nigel

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Old 08-21-2013, 05:34 PM   #11
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Default Battery Boxes (Options)

The thread is " Battery boxes - design or retail?"

I see the battery box that got this thread started and it looks good and at a very good price. I am not taking anything away from what others are doing or like. The more options we have available the better for everyone.

If you want a "retail solution" that looks like a very good way to go.

Here is a disign solution that we came up with

One thing that I always hated was changing my batterys. On a stick I was always afraid of the battery coming loose or falling off or just simply moving. While velcro and rubber bands worked it was a hassle. Remember if the battery is going to move it will move in a crash.

When putting batterys inside a plane it was hard to get the velcro straps tight enough with so little room. I mean we all want our planes to be as airodynamic as possible so we build things as small as we can right?

We want as long a fight times as possible so we tend to put as big a battery as is practical.

The end result is we have a big battery in a small place and we want the battery to be secure and that can make it hard to change out.

Well I have not seen very much inavation on battery boxes. I had been using the same battery boxes everyone else was. With velcro staps or pads or hinged compartments with latches and spounges. I am not suggesting that there is one battery box for every situation just that there are other ways of doing things. My son just happen to think of one that I think is good.

Not everyone has a 3D printer and it would be hard if not impossible to build these out of wood or foam. That is why I am making them available.
I am sure that this design will be improved upon. Isn't that what this hobby is all about? Just flying and having fun?

Here are some photos of our solution





This picture shows the battery and the cups but not the airplane. It shows the wires and the balance connecter after it goes through the cups.

To change a battery you simply slide the movable cup open take out the battery and put the new battery in place threading the wires through the holes and slide the movable cup back into position. The rubber band keeps everything in place and by only moving one side your center of balance always stays the same.




The rubber band has been moved up so you can see it. It would normaly be around the neck of the battery cups. One cup is hot glued in place while the other one slides. To put a new battery in you just slide the movible cup out and take the battery out. Then put the new battery in. Thread the wires through the holes and slide the cup over the fresh battery and your done. You dont have to mess with the rubber band at all.



Here are just a few battery boxes I have made. It takes me about 5 minutes to design a new box. While 3D printing is slow I can still print a new box in about the time it takes to charge a battery. New battery? New size? No problem. That is what rapid prototyping is all about. Having made many boxes now for many people and that now includes a local hobby shop the one thing I need to know is dimensions of the battery AND where the wires come off the battery.
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:59 PM   #12
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The more designs the better !!

I have a JR factory Rx box in front of me ... it is basically two halves of a plastic case that closes over 4 NiCD's with lead out one end. I'm sure that case can be used to set up a lipo (the NiCD's are long dead in it).

Initially I posted to show the box I like ... but lets move on and see how many designs / solutions to this we can come up with ...

Nigel

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Old 08-21-2013, 06:45 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
My point in showing it ... many of our models have cut-outs into t5he foam or in scratchbuilds - we have an area that is basically bounded by the depron or floor foam we use. I'm talking full fuselage now - not profiles or sticks.

My SE5 has a habit of breaking the wall that keeps the LiPo in place .. then balance goes to cock. I am going to fit one of the boxes and that will cure not only my wayward hatch door but also the lipo will be secure without need for velcro / cups / bands etc. Simply drop in ... close door ... bingo.

Nigel
I like it. On a lot of small foamies where you're using 1000-1300mah lipo, all you have is some velco , which is okay but with a lot of these planes the lipo is stuffed up front in the nose with no protection from the protruding motor shaft. On even a not so hard landing, sometimes the forward momentum will force the shaft into the lipo creating unwanted puncture damage. Would be nice to have a small version of this box.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:12 PM   #14
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I like the Idea of an enclosed compartment as well....better protection and less apt to shifting. There are several battery end clip mounts on the market for stick adaption, even light weight enclosed modules for the purpose of external mounting....seems the other custom plastic clips being presented here are specific to stick mount and becoming more of sales pitch rather than a "unique" method for external battery mounting........just an observation!

http://blueskyrc.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546532

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Old 08-21-2013, 07:48 PM   #15
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Pal of mine ... he has a habit of donating models after crashes to me ... I got so fed up watching him with Duct tape closing his lipo into his FMS Cessna ... he'd long lost the door to the battery compartment ... I presented him with one of the SkyArtec boxes ... He cut and fitted it ... viola - no more duct tape, no more LiPo's hanging out the model on hard landings etc.

Dahawk - knows I'm one for improvsing and using strange parts for our models !! So isn't it strange that I choose a factory item ...

I'm currently turning over in mind a box fuselage ... flat wing form ... 70mm scratchbuild EDF .... just to give an idea :

500mm span
800mm LOA
100mm square fuselage box UNDER wing / tail flat sheet to carry the 70mm EDF
20- 40mm square fuselage box ABOVE wing / tail flat sheet

Now the box above could be suited to carry the LiPo for this if I can keep the amps and lipo size down. The EDF model is to see how far I can push a 70mm.

mmmmmmm

Nigel

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Old 08-21-2013, 08:40 PM   #16
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You can push a 70 mm to the point of destruction...
Seen it done. 1 cell too many and the rotor shed its blades, shattering the EDF shroud and blowing out the center of the EPO foam model's fuselage.
The only time I have seen a foam "snowstorm" out of an EPO model.
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
You can push a 70 mm to the point of destruction...
Seen it done. 1 cell too many and the rotor shed its blades, shattering the EDF shroud and blowing out the center of the EPO foam model's fuselage.
The only time I have seen a foam "snowstorm" out of an EPO model.
The 70mm pushed more in terms of lightest / smallest airframe and get max performance. I have the Twister which to be honest is crap. So idea is to rip out the gear...
Try to create a light small frame round it....

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Old 08-22-2013, 04:57 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by pizzano View Post
I like the Idea of an enclosed compartment as well....better protection and less apt to shifting. There are several battery end clip mounts on the market for stick adaption, even light weight enclosed modules for the purpose of external mounting....seems the other custom plastic clips being presented here are specific to stick mount and becoming more of sales pitch rather than a "unique" method for external battery mounting........just an observation!

http://blueskyrc.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546532
are you interested in one? this will fit any battery 2-3 cells 1000-2200 mah, I have these on hand now. they will not break or slide in a crash, unless you want them too. the way I set mine up, I glue the rear mount in place and then use the rubber band as a shock obsorber for a crash. it won't slide without destroying your airframe.

how about this, ill send you the stl file for free, and you can get your reprap buddy to print one off for you.

we also have a version that mounts on a popsicle stick (or carbon fiber rod, or we have a hinged version that you simply glue or bolt inside of the model)that mounts inside the airframe.

it is not only for slow sticks. we also have a laser cutter if you want to build a large heavy plywood mount for a slow stick like the first link,.that you also have to use velcro or several rubber bands anyways. this is not unique, its a plywood version of what the plane came with, but larger and much heavier. my mount takes up about 2 mm over the size of your battery.

I have one setup for either a 3000mah 4 cell or a 4000 mah 3 cell that I will soon be using in my 25 sized and larger models. I'm also working on designing one to hold 2-4 smaller 3 cells for use in .40 size and larger models.
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:26 AM   #19
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I'm interested in learning how to set up one of these 3D printers...
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Old 08-22-2013, 06:45 AM   #20
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http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_Project

read away. if your familiar with cad designs, it makes things much easier. check out thingyverse, thousands of free cad checkdesigned projects with free downloads.plan on $200-500 for a working and finely tuned system.
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:44 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by pizzano View Post
I like the Idea of an enclosed compartment as well....better protection and less apt to shifting. There are several battery end clip mounts on the market for stick adaption, even light weight enclosed modules for the purpose of external mounting....seems the other custom plastic clips being presented here are specific to stick mount and becoming more of sales pitch rather than a "unique" method for external battery mounting........just an observation!

http://blueskyrc.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=546532
After looking at these two links I see a laser cut stick mount, and a balsa box mount. Having a laser cutter myself I really don't think either of these are the way to go.

The plastic ones are easyer to use, lighter, and stronger. And you can mount a stick anywhere even inside and the battery can't move. As far as protection I can stand on my battery boxes and they wont break. Try that with the ones in the links.
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Old 09-06-2013, 05:54 PM   #22
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"As far as protection I can stand on my battery boxes and they wont break. Try that with the ones in the links."

That's fantastic RepRapper (or is it hayofstacks).....can't seem to seperate the two anymore since both IP's seem to be on-line at the same time and coincidenlty share the same point of view and common grammatic errors 99.99% of the time........

Good luck with your aspiring business venture!

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Old 09-06-2013, 08:10 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by pizzano View Post
"As far as protection I can stand on my battery boxes and they wont break. Try that with the ones in the links."

That's fantastic RepRapper (or is it hayofstacks).....can't seem to seperate the two anymore since both IP's seem to be on-line at the same time and coincidenlty share the same point of view and common grammatic errors 99.99% of the time........

Good luck with your aspiring business venture!
On the subject of grammer It seems you can't read either or be bothered to even look at the name you are replying too. That just goes to show how much time you take on your posts. It seems you are more interested in the number of posts you can get in then what the content is. And as usual resort to personal attacks. Anyone can do a google search and post the first thing that pops up. Pizzano have you ever done anything original for this hobby? Made a new product? Pushed the technology forward?
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Old 09-06-2013, 09:01 PM   #24
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There Cool ! thanks for sharing, Bubsteve

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Old 09-07-2013, 07:27 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by pizzano View Post
"As far as protection I can stand on my battery boxes and they wont break. Try that with the ones in the links."

That's fantastic RepRapper (or is it hayofstacks).....can't seem to seperate the two anymore since both IP's seem to be on-line at the same time and coincidenlty share the same point of view and common grammatic errors 99.99% of the time........

Good luck with your aspiring business venture!
pretty freaking funny considering my last few posts on this forum have come from coos bay Oregon. I flew out here for work before my dad had even posted that video for me on YouTube.

my dad, reprapper also works a rotating shift, it changes every week, and he does most of his posts during the day, when I work, generally 8am-4pm or later.

any other mis-information you'd like to crap out?

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
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