The New GWS SLOW STICK

[Ribcracker]

Vultch,
I've always kept the tail wheel back as far as I can. When I built the short box kit, I installed the wheel ahead of the joiner, but then my tail sat on the ground and created drag on the grass during take-off. So I undid the joiner and re-installed the wheel back at the stab. Also, my camera was rubbing the ground until I moved the wheel back. This just works much better for me. So far, no issues with stress on the joiner. All seems well.

[VULTCH120]

Thanks Ribcracker!

What Camera are you using? I was thinking of using one of my Blackwidow Video systems on mine. Probably the 50MW with Panasonic camera.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by VOLUNTEER

Frodo
Ater the tail wheel fell off my SS, I just twisted the the wire 90 degrees and it just skids along with no wheel. This works pretty good too. After you get good at landing it you will be able to make it kinda plop down with no roll out so the gear it just there for support. Tape a short piece of CF rod or something lite and strong to the shaft and it will cut out some of the leaning and bending but it really needs heavier wire.

One nice trick I learned here is to get another front wing support and put it with the gear just behind the motor. This will do away with the prop breaking nose over.

Have fun, your LHS is really going to know you better soon!

This will be a perfect idea for when I eventually hook a camera up to this palne. Sounds nice and sturdy.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by Ribcracker

Frodo,
Get the bullet connector to stand up by clipping a cothes pin to it (or some other way), put the tip of your soldering iron on that little hole in the side until things get good and hot, melt some solder into the cup until it's almost full, stick your stripped lead into the molten solder and hold it still until things cool down. Your connectors probably came with shrink tubing. Cut a piece about half to three quarter inch long and shrink it over your connection with a match, lighter, or heat gun. Perfect! Good job!

Now that's a good idea! I will use a clothes pin to hold the connector. I was going to do that today but I have too many other things to do.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by VULTCH120

To hold the tailwheel in place I stripped a small piece of plastic insulation from a electrical wire and pressed it onto the tail wire. I've done this on several planes with good results. Just find the right gauge wire to cut.

I found that the plastic tubing that came with my Hummingbird heli will work perfectly to hold the tail wheel on. I am concerned about the flimsy wire that is used though. It kind of moves side to side with any pressure on it.

[VULTCH120]

After I lost that plastic tubing from my HB, that was when I used the insulation for that tailgear. Sometimes a short cutoff from a flexible pushrod tube fits nicely. Used that on my Minimax gear and Chopper.

I believe the wire is strong enough and will absorb the impact on less than perfect landings.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by VULTCH120

After I lost that plastic tubing from my HB, that was when I used the insulation for that tailgear. Sometimes a short cutoff from a flexible pushrod tube fits nicely. Used that on my Minimax gear and Chopper.

I believe the wire is strong enough and will absorb the impact on less than perfect landings.

I believe you are correct. The tail gear wire should be ok on a stock Slow Stick. I just might have some pushrod tube lying about. That's a great idea too.

[Frodo]

Does anyone know if the GWS ICS-300 ESC uses BEC connectors? If so I might return the one I have for that.

I am totally new to all of this and I kind of figure things out as I go along. Besides my SS all of my planes are RTF.

[tallflyer]

Frodo

The stock GWS Slowstick only requires a

ISC300 (esc)
2 servos
1 4 channel-6 channel rec
1 battery pack
1 basic 4 channel trainsmiter

Servos and the esc plug into the receiver battery plugs right into the esc, motor plugs right into the esc.

no soldering needed no plugs to add (inless you use a battery pack that has a deans connector)

All stock 2 cell lipo packs and some 3 come with a JST Connector Installed.

BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit). Virtually every ESC comes with the BEC built in.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by tallflyer

Frodo

The stock GWS Slowstick only requires a

ISC300 (esc)
2 servos
1 4 channel-6 channel rec
1 battery pack
1 basic 4 channel trainsmiter

Servos and the esc plug into the receiver battery plugs right into the esc, motor plugs right into the esc.

no soldering needed no plugs to add (inless you use a battery pack that has a deans connector)

All stock 2 cell lipo packs and some 3 come with a JST Connector Installed.

BEC (Battery Eliminator Circuit). Virtually every ESC comes with the BEC built in.

Thank you TF!

Oh, I thought a BEC was a type of connector. I'm learning a lot here. Even though I'm slightly confused I'm having fun!

I'm using the stock 300 motor and a 9.6v/750mAh battery which was recommended in the Slow Stick manual. My motor and battey have the same connection except the motor has a male conn. Does the ICS-300 ESC have the same connectors? There's a pic of my battery below.

The ESC I bought uses bullet connectors and a Dean's conn. I want to return it and just buy a simple one. This is my training plane and I will build a better ss with lipos and a brushless motor when I am ready for it.

P.S. Thanx for the pix!

[tallflyer]

frodo

Not a problem!

At times we forget about offering advice to the new pilot!

its brushless this and brushless that!!

Posting helpfull information is all about giving back!

The ICS300 is perfect for the battery you pictured!

[Twmaster]

Roger that TF. Giving a little back is in -my- opinion an important part of this hobby.

[Ribcracker]

Vultch,
I use a Nikon Coolpix 5600. It weighs about 5 ounces and is triggered by a servo connected to channel 4. I just move my left stick to the left to trip the shutter. I usually take 30 or 40 shots up there in the hopes of getting a handfull of good ones. Just delete the blurry or boring ones. That's the beauty of digital. Also, it takes a fairly good 4 min. video.
Lots of fun and the SS doesn't seem to mind the extra weight at all.
I've uploaded some photos of my Stick with a cheaper camera so you can see the set-up.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by tallflyer

frodo

Not a problem!

At times we forget about offering advice to the new pilot!

its brushless this and brushless that!!

Posting helpfull information is all about giving back!

The ICS300 is perfect for the battery you pictured!

I'm all set, I just ordered the ISC-300. I'm also looking for a cheap NI-MH wall charger to use at home. I found one by eflight and emailed my hobby shop to see if it will work on my battery.

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by Twmaster

Roger that TF. Giving a little back is in -my- opinion an important part of this hobby.

And I appreciate every bit of it!

[tallflyer]

Originally Posted by Frodo

I'm all set, I just ordered the ISC-300. I'm also looking for a cheap NI-MH wall charger to use at home. I found one by eflight and emailed my hobby shop to see if it will work on my battery.

What I would do frodo is look for a Charger that will do both ni-mh and lipo 2-3 cell packs!

I have one by:

Dualsky

Only about $35.99

If you cant find one I can get one from my dealer for you!

this way when you upgrade to lipo you wont have to buy another charger.
pay a little more now and when you make the switch you wont pay later.

[tallflyer]

Charger picture

All that is required to us this charger is a 12volt power supply!

(I made one out of a old Computer power supply) do a search on the boards for information on how to build one.

I have been using mine for about 3 years now still puts out a good even 12 volts. takes about (15 minutes to build and you get great results!)

you can also buy a 12 volt rechargable battery (motorcycle type) and there are hobby ones also that come with a wall charger. good for about 20 full charges or so I think!

great if you want to charge at your field while you fly.

(I just charge about 5 packs at home and then go flying. thats just me..)

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by tallflyer

What I would do frodo is look for a Charger that will do both ni-mh and lipo 2-3 cell packs!

I have one by:

Dualsky

Only about $35.99

If you cant find one I can get one from my dealer for you!

this way when you upgrade to lipo you wont have to buy another charger.
pay a little more now and when you make the switch you wont pay later.

I wish I bought that charger, I spent $80.00 on mu Multiplex!:o Thanx for the offer. I just might take you up on it.

[SkyTime]

Let me start by saying I have been flying glow for 10 years and about 1 month ago I bought my first e-power, it's the new Slow Stick. Since then I have built 3, all with the stock 400 motor. They all have been in the 17 ounce range. I use lipos on all the electrics. The first was by the book. My son still has it and it flies great, even after several crashes. Crashes that would have been the end of a glow plane. My second had several mods including ailerons. If you go with ailerons be sure and give them lots of movement. I removed around 5 inches of the fuse, as much as I could off the tail piece and the rest off the front. I think it made a big difference on inverted flight. Where the fuse went together I put a piece of spruce inside and then put on the stock plastic piece. It was put together with epoxy and screws. It flew great until my son mid-aired me with his .40 glow trainer, the plane just came down in pieces. However the fuse was in one piece. One problem I had with my first one was the servo mount would slide a little on the fuse which made it hard to trim, so I epoxied it in place. I also put a small piece of spruce in the fuse where the motor mounts. I have just finished my 3rd one and did not go with the ailerons because I did not think they were any better than rudder only. I plan on getting a cheap small camera from Wal-Mart and mounting it to this one. The only complaint I have with the 3rd kit is they put in the wrong rubber bands. But still I did not care, I just put them in the container on my desk and used the bands I got from the LHS. For the money I think it's a great plane and it's a lot easier for my son to learn how to land becase it don't need to come in so fast. One more thing about ailerons, they did weaken the wing and caused more flutter. I have never put extra tape on the bottom of the wings. And if you put wood inside the fuse DO NOT use the screws that came with it, there is a strong chance they will break as you screw them in. Use a stronger screw. I love the Slow Stick, it's the only plane I will fly by the house. The glows need more room to land.

[firemanbill]

Hey Skytime, welcome to WF. Nice looking fleet you got there!

[SkyTime]

Thank you. I've been flying the Slow Sticks so much that the last time I flew my Uproar it scared me half to death because it is so fast. I also slid the wing back on my Slow Stick to help out the center of gravity. I think at this point in my life I almost enjoy building planes more than I do flying them. It seems like i'm always looking for the next plane to build.

[firemanbill]

sounds like we have a lot in common then. I love the build, nearly as much as flying them anyway...

[tallflyer]

Ok people there here! the new GWS Slowstick kits with the new fiberglass fusalage

The SLope glider version is still priced at just $21.99

[Don Sims]

Robin, is it Carbon or Fiberglass? Your post is cornfusing...

[VOLUNTEER]

Robin is claiming carbon but GWS describes it as fiberglass. Guess who's right.