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Old 10-27-2013, 10:49 PM   #1
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Default Question re HobbyKing Bixler 2 purchase

I wanted to purchase a RTF Bixler 2 from HobbyKing and found the plane and various extras that I wanted. The initial price was okay, but once shipping was added, it pushed the final price to almost $200.00. Shipping was about $60 bucks on this order. I noticed they had a US warehouse, so why the expensive shipping charges? Any rate, my basic question is can this plane and accessories be purchased stateside at any hobby shops or is HobbyKing the only vendor to deal with in buying one? I have searched at several on-line rc shops, but I have not found anything, so far. I'd like to pick up one to go with my HobbyZone Super Cub, but the high shipping cost is not something I want to be nailed with.

For those who have a Bixler 2, where did you purchase it and can it be bought from here in the states?

Thanks

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Old 10-27-2013, 11:10 PM   #2
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The Bixler is a HK brand - with significant copying from the wonderful Hitec Easy Star.

They have a US warehouse but you have to order from it - to get the shipping from the US. It will still be pretty high - that is just one of the realities of ordering from HK.

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Old 10-28-2013, 12:39 AM   #3
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That's weird I added one to my cart and it was 167 dollars total for a RTF and shipping. By the way I place the order from the USA warehouse.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:02 AM   #4
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I just tried using the warehouse, but the paypal went to some other payment system and it kept saying there was an error and to try again. The model at the warehouse is the Bixler 2, but it is the 1400mm and not the latest 1500mm model. Not sure that makes any difference in the least though. Any rate, no response from the contact us section of the web site, as it is apparently shut down. I'll try again tomorrow, but they are not the easiest people to get hold of. The shipping was not bad stateside and nowhere near close to the UK cost.

Unfortunately, the stateside warehouse does not seem to have all the extras I wanted to pick up, but it has enough to satisfy me with what I tried to order there.

Thanks for the info.

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Old 10-28-2013, 01:16 AM   #5
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Read up on it a lot of folks are buying the bare bones arf and doing their on servos and power system. I have the Bixler 1.1 and I upgraded the motor and esc with a UBEC.
To bad your not in Texas a guy on RCG has one new never flown for 75 bucks he won't ship it.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:21 AM   #6
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If it's going to be that much I suggest you look at the Easy Star. It's better foam and better built. Jeff at Heads Up will actually give you service. HK has a skewed and limited concept of customer service. Their shipping has become a bit of a racket.
http://www.headsuphobby.com/MULTIPLE...I-ARF-M104.htm

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Old 10-29-2013, 04:00 AM   #7
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The "not in Texas" comment stumped me a bit, as I am in the very heart of Texas, but I searched the sale area and found the person you spoke of. Today I got hold of the stateside warehouse and finally got the PayPal stuff corrected. Although an ARF would be fine for some, I really didn't want one and wanted only an RTF unit, instead. If I like this well enough for what I want, then I can always pick up an additional kit or ARF in the future. The shipping was about $14 bucks stateside for all that I ordered this time around. We shall see what all transpires once the plane arrives. Thanks for the suggestions and advise.

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Old 10-29-2013, 07:56 AM   #8
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Default I filled my cart at HK but went to HeadsUp

Originally Posted by flydiver View Post
If it's going to be that much I suggest you look at the Easy Star. It's better foam and better built. Jeff at Heads Up will actually give you service. HK has a skewed and limited concept of customer service. Their shipping has become a bit of a racket.
http://www.headsuphobby.com/MULTIPLE...I-ARF-M104.htm
I had a Park 450 motor, Turnigy 25A ESC, and four Turnigy 9g servos. $38

Total weight of 253g. Intl Airmail up to 300g for $6.99 was shown as an option. But when I go to checkout the shipping 'choice' was UPS at over $29 PLUS a $5.79 S&H fee. So total shipping and handling was going to be almost the cost of the items.

So I go over to HeadsUpRC, load up an Emax BL2215/20 motor, 30A ESC, four 9g servos, three replacement shafts for my existing 2215 motor and and a spiffy custom motor mount for my Super Cub.

Total shipping cost: $9.95.

(For any Canadians reading this, NEVER use UPS to ship anything from from US to Canada as you will pay outrageous customs brokerage fees. I paid $38 in fees for a used $100 motorcycle part bought privately from a contact on a forum)

Enough said...

Flying more, crashing less. Feels great!

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Old 11-01-2013, 10:24 PM   #9
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The Easy Star is out of stock, as to availability. At least that is what the web site link indicated. Instead of the Bix 2, I went with the RTF v1.1 1400 mm model and a back up ARF v1.1 model for modifications beyond the stock stuff. Waiting on shipment, but all was ordered through the USA warehouse for HobbyKing. We shall see how things transpire as to shipping and the quality afterwards. Site says first order has shipped, but did not list a delivery date. Shipping in the states for both items was still cheaper than paying the freight from the UK. The biggest problem I see so far is that replacement parts of wings or tail pieces of the v1.1 Bix are not in the USA warehouse stock, but they do have the Bix 2 parts as this. Hopefully that will change in the future though.

Thanks for the input and suggestions. I appreciate them.

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Old 11-02-2013, 01:11 AM   #10
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coupe sorry for the confusion. I meant to bad he is in California that is a great price for the Bixler.
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:05 PM   #11
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No problem. I searched everything for sale and came across his stuff and one other while checking things out. Thanks for the tip info.

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Old 11-08-2013, 12:25 AM   #12
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Default Questions on Bixler build

Okay, I started comparing the two different Bixlers I had ordered. The RTF comes pre-glued on the fuselage and no glue included. The ARF is not pre-glued at the fuselage, but comes with no glue either. Absolutely no instruction at all on hooking up the Y-splitter or binding the Bixler. In the silly manual, there were more photos regarding the gluing of the pilot into the cockpit than almost anything else. Please look at the attached photos and tell me if I am correct or not, as I do not want to burn anything up right out of the box.

1. On the (digital receiver) shown in the attached photo #1, there are currently three unused plugs; CH5, CH6 and Bat. Where does the Y-Splitter hook in on this receiver piece? My guess is CH5, but only a guess.

2. On the servos shown in photo 2, should they be centered with the arms pointing directly at each other or are the adjustments only necessary at the clevis end? I don't want to pull the servo and remove the arms if possible, so is this something to fiddle with or not at the servo ends?

3. Since the battery hooks up to the speed controller inside the plane, just what is the purpose of the Bat plug on the digital receiver? Is it for running other accessories as a camera or such?

4. My throttle control is on the left on this TX. Can you please share the correct method or steps for binding this plane if it is indeed not pre-bound at the factory?

5. My plane came with the two screws that thread down the top of the fuselage. So far, I have had zero luck in getting the screws to actually screw in place, despite a multitude of different alignment approaches to pushing in the two wings. It is frustrating enough that I was considering just gluing in the wings and being done with that process, but I don't want to regret having done that later. Any tips on this process? I found that one of the two screws was bent, but not sure if that happened in shipping or by me forcing it into place during this frustration involved.

I am keeping the ARF Bixler v1.1 model to build later with upgrades added to it, but for the most part, I hope to keep the RTF v1.1 model stock. These questions are likely simplistic, but the manual has to be the very worse I have seen in explaining much about this plane. I'm trying to build it and not ruin it in the process by assuming anything.

The cheesy 2S/3S LiPo balance charger was a hoot to see and find out it only had alligator clips to be hooked onto a car battery. I have my battery charged, but don't want to install it until I find out the answers above.


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Old 11-08-2013, 06:07 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by coupe1942 View Post
Okay, I started comparing the two different Bixlers I had ordered. The RTF comes pre-glued on the fuselage and no glue included. The ARF is not pre-glued at the fuselage, but comes with no glue either. Absolutely no instruction at all on hooking up the Y-splitter or binding the Bixler. In the silly manual, there were more photos regarding the gluing of the pilot into the cockpit than almost anything else. Please look at the attached photos and tell me if I am correct or not, as I do not want to burn anything up right out of the box.

1. On the (digital receiver) shown in the attached photo #1, there are currently three unused plugs; CH5, CH6 and Bat. Where does the Y-Splitter hook in on this receiver piece? My guess is CH5, but only a guess.

2. On the servos shown in photo 2, should they be centered with the arms pointing directly at each other or are the adjustments only necessary at the clevis end? I don't want to pull the servo and remove the arms if possible, so is this something to fiddle with or not at the servo ends?

3. Since the battery hooks up to the speed controller inside the plane, just what is the purpose of the Bat plug on the digital receiver? Is it for running other accessories as a camera or such?

4. My throttle control is on the left on this TX. Can you please share the correct method or steps for binding this plane if it is indeed not pre-bound at the factory?

5. My plane came with the two screws that thread down the top of the fuselage. So far, I have had zero luck in getting the screws to actually screw in place, despite a multitude of different alignment approaches to pushing in the two wings. It is frustrating enough that I was considering just gluing in the wings and being done with that process, but I don't want to regret having done that later. Any tips on this process? I found that one of the two screws was bent, but not sure if that happened in shipping or by me forcing it into place during this frustration involved.

I am keeping the ARF Bixler v1.1 model to build later with upgrades added to it, but for the most part, I hope to keep the RTF v1.1 model stock. These questions are likely simplistic, but the manual has to be the very worse I have seen in explaining much about this plane. I'm trying to build it and not ruin it in the process by assuming anything.

The cheesy 2S/3S LiPo balance charger was a hoot to see and find out it only had alligator clips to be hooked onto a car battery. I have my battery charged, but don't want to install it until I find out the answers above.

Number ONE.Little confusing as the thread is about buying a Bixler 2 yet you say you have the V1.1. Two different animals.
#6 is the channel used for flaps. That's where your Y lead should go for the flaps.
#5 is normally the gear channel.
If this is the V1.1 the Y harness is used for the ailerons.


Number TWO. Yes they should be centered. Just make sure they don't touch. The way they are in the photo you would have uneven throws.
And yep adjustments are done at the clevis ends.

Number THREE. It's there in case you use a stand alone bec or receiver pack. In this case you would disconnect the center wire (usually red) from the esc lead going to the receiver. It's also used for the bind feature when a bind plug is used.

Number FOUR.
Number FIVE. Common problem. First the wood washers are too high for the length of the screws. Honestly most of us toss the screws as if you do get them in and have a less then perfect landing you'll shred the foam at the wings. Look up the BIX 2 threads, Velcro or magnets are the preferred methods of retaining the wings.

The charger is what it is.

Here is the bible on every version of the Bixler, and all the others.
First page has every mod/tip/fix found. I suggest you read it.

When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, in his sleep...... Not screaming like the passengers in his plane.
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Old 11-08-2013, 11:53 PM   #14
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Thanks for the advise and response:

Explaining #1: Originally, I had decided to purchase a Bixler 2, but after reading so much about the two different models, the Bixler v1.1 came across as a better start for my individual needs. Unfortunately, this was all done after I had already started this particular thread though. Sorry for the confusion.

#6: If I read your response correctly, then #6 is the plug in for the Y-splitter for the ailerons. My question regarding that is, how is this plug for the splitter oriented when it is installed into the #6 plug? I don't want to push on it and have it upside down or something and ruin any pins there. I don't want to force it an ruin anything in the process. (Photo attached).

#5: Remember, I am an essential newb with this plane, so what exactly do you mean by the term gear? Camera equipment or other gyro or such? Hate to be an idiot in not knowing, but I don't want to assume anything either.

* After two days of trying to align the wings to insert those damn screws with no absolutely success, I had to put the plane away and take my mind off the problem by reading through various sites and seeing just what I could pick out from them. Part of the problem with that though is that if the Bixler threads are of any length, they quickly get into a discussion of other models that are not quite the same in how they are constructed or such. It means a lot of hunting to find a particular issue or resolution of a problem specifically to the v1.1, as the search is generally of no real help. My RTF and ARF planes are both indeed Bixler v1.1 models.

#2: Yes, that is what I thought about the uneven throws. I have centered them and will make the proper adjustments when I start back on the plane build.

Well, I have to do some work in deciding just which method I want to employ in hooking the wings together. I may go with a combo of the 3M hooks and rubber bands, plus the Velcro, but not for sure just yet.

One last question before I start playing about with the ailerons. The two servos seem to have the arms at different positions presently. That may change once I hook up the Y-splitter, but for positioning them correctly once the splitter is properly hooked up, should the arms be pointed at the center or full forward or full reverse position? I know I can make adjustments at the clevis on them. Hope that make sense a question.

Thanks...


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Old 11-09-2013, 12:01 AM   #15
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I forgot to mention, but neither of my planes came with any binding plug. I have one form my HK Super Cub. Will it work or not? Am I simply missing something in where they may have hidden a bind plug in the boxing or such? Thanks for posting the video on the TX and receiver.

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Old 11-09-2013, 05:53 AM   #16
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Lets see if I get it all covered.

Okay, if you have a V1.1, it doesn't have flaps. So nope you won't be plugging anything into #6 slot on the rx. Oh and before I forget, "gear" is landing gear, aka retracts. Another thing not on a Bixler, no matter which one.

The Y harness is used to connect the two aileron servos together to plug into the aileron slot on the receiver. Not sure on your system, as it could be a Spektrum clone or one of the others like Futaba or Hitec. Only difference in them is the line up of the channels.
Spektrum type (which yours appears to be )normally goes first set of pins (battery) are for secondary connection of a bec, and also for binding purposes.
Next set of pins (normally marked #1) is throttle.
Next set (#2) is ailerons
Next set (#3) is elevator
Next set (#4) is rudder
#5 would be "gear"
#6 flaps
Easy to check once you have the receiver binded. You power up the receiver, and plug a servo into the various slots of the receiver to confirm what control it is.

Okay, binding. At least from the video, you use a bind plug. Yep the one you have will work just fine. If I remember correctly none came with either of the V1.1's I bought. On it, like stated earlier it plugs into the "battery" slot when you're ready to bind. Once bound, you pull the bind plug out.

As for the proper orientation of the servo plugs, your signal wire (can be white or yellow or orange) faces towards the label. The ground wire (can be black or dark brown) faces away from the label, towards the outside of the receiver.

You can't hurt anything if you plug one in backwards, the servo just won't work.

Back to your ailerons, connect the servos to the Y harness, and that should plug into slot #2 on the receiver. The right stick on the transmitter if moved left and right should then operate them. Remember the up aileron is the side that's your plane is going to turn towards. So if you want a left turn, when you move the stick to the left, the left aileron should go up, and the right one down. If they work backwards, just reverse that channel on your transmitter.

Ditto the servo arms, when your stick on the transmitter is centered, so too should the servo arms. Or as close as possible. If they aren't then you'll have to remove the screw and arm and reinstall it in the correct position.

Lastly,I forgot in my last message to give you a link to the "bible" on these birds.
No wading through several thousand posts to find info, ajbaker was great enough to list everything about em on the first page, look at post #3 for info on the wing retention systems.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1231310

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Old 11-09-2013, 04:29 PM   #17
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I appreciate the information. Unfortunately, I have to do some other priority tasks over the weekend, so it may be a bit before I actually get to mess with my Bixler to try out any of the suggestions again.

I found one major mistake on my part already and I am working to correct it immediately. The receiver is so very tiny that my old tired eyes didn't see things as clearly as they should have in the beginning. I was looking down at the receiver instead of directly across from the thing. I had thought that all 3 of the plugs at the bottom of the receiver were already plugged with wires. They were not, as CH1 had nothing plugged into it. Stupid mistake on my part, but my big old mitts don't do well in tight spaces and my eyes don't do so well under these stupid curly-Q light bulbs the government has forced onto us. :-(

I have to adjust the rudder and the horizontal stabilizer, as they are not working up to snuff just yet. I'll work on that later though.

I received some other tips at another forum, so I'll be reviewing each and see what transpires when I can get back onto the Bixler v1.1 RTF build. I do need to either replace those control horns or at least glue them down with hot glue, as they just don't seem all that secure at the elevator and rudder areas. Lots to get done, but I generally find it is much easier if I put things away for a bit that I am frustrated with and then pick them up a bit later for a fresh start.

Thanks for the info update. I'll check out the wires to make sure they are in the proper plugs. My question regarding the orientation of the plug was if the tines were to face up or down when the plug is pushed into the receiver or does it matter. I didn't want to ruin a pin in pushing the plug in upside down or incorrectly.

Again, thanks for the help. I do appreciate it. I have already been reading the the link you posted and I suspected that was the one you were addressing in your earlier reply.

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Old 11-12-2013, 01:50 AM   #18
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Default Bixler v1.1 RTF build

I got back to working on the Bixler v1.1 RTF plane today. I got the plugs and such sorted out for myself. Everything seems to be working, except one servo for the rudder seems to bind for some reason. On the RTF, the control arms are inside the fuselage that has been pre-glued. It looks as if the servo arms can only be removed by cutting out a small square in the foam at the door. I can't see how a screwdriver could align for removal in the way the screw is on the servo arm. I get a clicking sound when I use the transmitter and I can feel the control arm trying to move, but no real movement there. I'll have to work on that, but at least i did get the receiver and all put into the plane and working well. More mods to get done, but this is a start. Cold outside this week, so not sure when I'll do a maiden flight with this plane.

My dog, Murphy, is trying to help me with my plane build. He is traveling incognito as Mr. Bixler. :-)


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Old 11-12-2013, 02:19 AM   #19
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From the sounds of it you have a servo with some broken teeth, or as they say DOA. Best bet is dig it out and replace it seems a few folks have had problems with the Bixler servos and had to replace them.

Cute dog, and looks like Mr. Bixler is concentrating on the servo problem.
Glad you some answers and are getting closer to a flight.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:42 AM   #20
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I thought I was going to have to pull out one of my extra servos from my other v1.1 ARF plane to use in replacing this one on the RTF model. However, I removed the servo from the RTF plane and it worked okay. It appeared to have the control rod binding in the clear plastic tubing to the horizontal stabilizer. I removed the servo and pushed the control rod back and forth. Finally that seemed to release the rod and no binding after that. I hot glued the original servo back onto the fuselage and I'll see how things go when I hook all the wiring back up. I suppose some glue must have gotten into the tubing when it was installed at the factory, as I could not see anything else binding the control rod when I slid it back and forth. Hope this works, but I'll find out for sure when I get it all done. It would have been a much easier fix if the RTF was not pre-glued at the fuselage, as the ARF is.

The rudder works fine and so do the ailerons. Just this one last issue to resolve. I added some 3M Extreme tape today. I could only find it at Staples and the price was pretty stiff at $13 bucks. Got my mod for the hook and rubber band setup on both planes and it works just fine.

Have to wait unto tomorrow to get back to doing much more of anything on this plane.

Thanks for the positive support. I am enjoying piddling with this, even though the issues with the manual were frustrating.

On the Bixler v1.1 model, the manual says 71 mm is the CoG. I have seen that some claim the CoG is less. I have not make a serious attempt to finalize my CoG at the moment, but would like to know if everyone agrees that on this model it is indeed 71mm or not?

A bird is just a bird and a cat is just a cat, but a dog is HUMAN...
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