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Old 11-02-2013, 02:03 AM   #1
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Default Hooking up batterys from outsid the airplane

A while back I saw a article on a plug mounted on the side of the airplane and they put like a shunt in the to connect the battery's has anybody heard of these plug and where can you buy it
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:07 AM   #2
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http://www.headsuphobby.com/Arming-Switches Here you Go'
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:11 AM   #3
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Does it fly with the plug left in the side of the plane?
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:15 AM   #4
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Yes you leave it in while flying it like a Dean connector
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:46 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by egrave1 View Post
A while back I saw a article on a plug mounted on the side of the airplane and they put like a shunt in the to connect the battery's has anybody heard of these plug and where can you buy it
Yeah, Deans connectors work nicely. I've been using the Anderson Power Pole connectors for the same function. The higher quality APP connectors in use in my models are available only from Allied Electronics.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64539

If you like, I can provide photos on how it was done.

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Old 11-02-2013, 03:54 AM   #6
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I have those APP's and would be interested in seeing a coupe of the photo's. I prefer the app for all my connectors as they are easiest to build. My soldering experiences have sucked. Scott
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:29 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Yakfishingfool View Post
I have those APP's and would be interested in seeing a coupe of the photo's. I prefer the app for all my connectors as they are easiest to build. My soldering experiences have sucked. Scott
Take a look at the attached photos.

The second one shows this installation in a 11 year old model that has over 1000 flights on it. This consists of three APP connectors side by side. The first one to the far left is a dummy, with a pin stuck in it, but no wires connecting to it. (You need to install a pin in the dummy APP connector. If the dummy is not present, the jumper plug will not plug in to it, due to the spring clip inside.)

The second center one leads directly to the battery plus lead of your LiPo battery. The far right pin leads to the ESC red positive wire.

You need the "Jumper" wire shown for this to work. As shown, this jumper connector is plugged in to the far left, and since their is no wire connection on the far left APP connector, this is a "Parking" location for your jumper.

Relocating that jumper to the center and right APP connectors now connects the red wire of your LiPo battery which is wired to the center APP connector, through your plug in jumper, and back to the far right APP connector. And that goes to the positive red wire on your ESC.

The second photo shows a quick shot of a complex setup for my 12S2P APP connector, that allows flying the model as a 12S setup, and charging the model as a pair of 6S2P batteries. These models use the A123 batteries, which can be permanently installed in the models.

Ignore all the 8 APP connections. The important part is how the APP connectors are mounted into your model. Take a standard piece of light 1/4 inch ply, cut it slightly larger than your APP connectors, making sure you have room to install mounting screws and/or blind nuts. Cut a slot into the ply for a tight slip fit on the APP connectors. Then cut a plywood "Plug" to secure the APP connectors from the other side. Be sure to rough up the plastic shell of the APP connector in the gluing area. Use very course sandpaper, like 80 grit or similar. Also, use epoxy, DO NOT USE CA! CA migrates all over the place, and can and will get into your electrical connections.

As for those APP plastic shells on the jumper plug, I've had them come apart after much use. What is a permanent fix, is to take those plastic shells, lay them flat on a paper towel or similar, and put a TINY drop of thin CA between the two APP connector shells. The CA will migrate between the two shells of your jumper plug, and make a very permanent bond.

Now it's just a matter of cutting a small rectangular slot into your fuse for allowing access to these connectors. Or if you have a quickly removable canopy, these APP connectors can be mounted inside the fuse.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you've got questions.


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Old 11-02-2013, 10:18 AM   #8
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Safety loops have been mandatory on electric race boats in Europe for years now. The idea never seemed to catch on in N.A.
Good idea for planes as well, install the battery and wing/hatch walk out to flight line and arm the electronics with the plug.
In boats it's more for retrieval purposes for a flipped boat, not nice having a run away motor in the bottom of the retrieval boat.
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:50 PM   #9
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This wasn't possible to my knowledge the last time I asked, but I've been out of it for a while; has anyone ever came up with a way to isolate just the motor, but leave the rest of the plane 'hot'? That way you could check your controls without having to worry about an accidental startup.

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Old 11-02-2013, 06:17 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
This wasn't possible to my knowledge the last time I asked, but I've been out of it for a while; has anyone ever came up with a way to isolate just the motor, but leave the rest of the plane 'hot'? That way you could check your controls without having to worry about an accidental startup.

Not easily. You'd need a two or three pole switch in the motor leads. Those switches would have to be able to handle the maximum current draw of your motor. Since more than a few motors can hit 60 Amps or more, your standard Radio Shack toggle switch can't be used.

As others will likely indicate, in most cases it is easier to take the prop off. Or, unplug the ESC from the receiver, and plug in a temporary receiver battery.

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Old 11-02-2013, 07:35 PM   #11
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Has anyone had the shunt fall out while in flight then how do you control your plane
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Old 11-02-2013, 07:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by egrave1 View Post
Has anyone had the shunt fall out while in flight then how do you control your plane
Not with the Anderson Power Pole connectors. They have an internal spring that maintains contact pressure.

I have seen one case where the Deans connector had an intermittent connection on a receiver pack. The mfg overheated the Deans connector during the soldering process. This resulted in the plastic housing melting, and little or no contact pressure. The pilot was danged lucky. The battery pack was powering the fuel pump on a $$$$$ wet turbine model. Had the connector failed in flight, it could have cost the model.

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Old 11-02-2013, 08:04 PM   #13
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Got it! Very good idea! Beats wrestling a battery out.
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Old 11-02-2013, 09:08 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by egrave1 View Post
A while back I saw a article on a plug mounted on the side of the airplane and they put like a shunt in the to connect the battery's has anybody heard of these plug and where can you buy it
Look here: http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.h...racle%20Switch

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Old 11-02-2013, 09:23 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by simibill View Post
Ah ha, thought I'd seen that somewhere.

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Old 11-03-2013, 01:33 AM   #16
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I modify all my planes to allow me to reach in & seperate the battery plug & socket.
Had 1 close call with a basement check out going to almost WOT up due to signals from 2 pieces of metal pushrods rubbing during a servo testing...........LUCKY PURE LUCKY
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:13 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by cyclops2 View Post
I modify all my planes to allow me to reach in & seperate the battery plug & socket.
Had 1 close call with a basement check out going to almost WOT up due to signals from 2 pieces of metal pushrods rubbing during a servo testing...........LUCKY PURE LUCKY
Yeah, as has been mentioned many times, when fooling with the servos and so on, it's always a good idea to take the prop off the motor.

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Old 11-03-2013, 03:18 AM   #18
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I never remember that step. Hopefully I will from now on.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
This wasn't possible to my knowledge the last time I asked, but I've been out of it for a while; has anyone ever came up with a way to isolate just the motor, but leave the rest of the plane 'hot'? That way you could check your controls without having to worry about an accidental startup.
Yes! Solder a 2 ohm, 3watt resistor across the two connectors. It will eliminate the spark when you plug in high cell count packs (4s or greater) but you can run the rx and electronics without plugging in the shunt.

Of course the motors can still spin up however the resistor will very quickly burn out severing the connection. If you are particularly paranoid put a fuse in series with the resistor.

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Old 11-06-2013, 02:44 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by dangaras View Post
Yes! Solder a 2 ohm, 3watt resistor across the two connectors. It will eliminate the spark when you plug in high cell count packs (4s or greater) but you can run the rx and electronics without plugging in the shunt.

Of course the motors can still spin up however the resistor will very quickly burn out severing the connection. If you are particularly paranoid put a fuse in series with the resistor.
Yup, that would work, but some ESC mfgrs such as Castle Creations have indicated that powering up their ESC's with a series resistor, then connecting a solid power connector can damage their ESC's.

http://vimeo.com/68551172

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Old 11-06-2013, 02:57 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
Yup, that would work, but some ESC mfgrs such as Castle Creations have indicated that powering up their ESC's with a series resistor, then connecting a solid power connector can damage their ESC's.

I have heard that too. Apparently the circuitry in the ESC can initialize badly because of the reduced ramp up rate of the applied voltage.

Too bad for castle, I don't see any value in their ESCs anyway, all my stuff flies on hobbyking equipment and is doing just great. With really long leads from the battery to the ESCs and anti-spark resistors in every high cell count implementation.

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Old 11-06-2013, 09:34 PM   #22
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And dependent on the plane the plug doesn't have to sit out on the side of it.

Anything I have with a canopy, like my war birds all have what my one flying bud has called the butt plugs.

I use a Deans plug that sits under the pilot.
Pop the canopy open, remove pilot, insert plug. Reinstall pilot and canopy.


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Old 11-15-2013, 03:20 AM   #23
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Default At the risk of appearing stupid...

I'm assuming even with an arming setup, the packs are removed from the plane for charging?

Flying more, crashing less. Feels great!

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Old 11-15-2013, 03:33 AM   #24
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Emcotech makes on that the arming plug comes out to arm.

I have it on my Shoestring and it works really well. Not worries about anything coming out in flight for sure. I run a receiver pack in mine also so I have radio before arming the motor.


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Old 11-15-2013, 06:07 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DavidR8 View Post
I'm assuming even with an arming setup, the packs are removed from the plane for charging?
Yeah for two reasons.
First, it isn't safe to charge a LiPo inside your model, due to the increasingly rare risk of a LiPo fire with the modern chargers.

Second, it takes an hour or so to charge your LiPo, so many people have several LiPo batteries available to swap out for more flights in one day.

As for me, I fly those overweight, oversized, undervoltage A123 cells that have zero fire hazard, and can be repeatedly fully charged in under 15 minutes inside the model,with the proper high powered charger.

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