Wattflyer RC Network: RC Universe :: RCU Magazine :: RCU Forums :: RCU Classifieds :: RCU User Reviews :: RCU YouTube
Home Who's Online Calendar Today's Posts RealTime Post Spy Mark Forums Read
Go Back   WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight > R/C Electric Power - Batteries, Chargers, ESCs and More > Power Systems
Register Members List Wattflyer Extras Articles Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Social Groups

Power Systems Talk about motors, ESC speed controllers, gear drives, propellers, power system simulators and all power system related topics

Thank you for your support (hide ads)
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-04-2013, 08:53 PM   #1
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default Strong Motor Issue

I just received an order from Strong Motors, but I have an issue with one of them. I have to mount my motor the shaft sticking out the stationary side of the motor, and so the the screws go into the motor on the stationary side from the mount. The screws are supposed to be uneven, and you should be able to make a virtual square through the path of the screws. I hope I am explaining this okay. The issue is one of the motors has this the wrong way, so if I line the motor up, two screws are up from where they screw in and two are down. I can't take apart the whole motor and remove the coils and pivot the back of the motor can I. The windings exit out of the side of the part, and there is plenty of space to pivot the windings and thus allowing the motor to mount, but I don't know how to do it.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2013, 09:38 PM   #2
xmech2k
Ya got any Beeman's?
 
xmech2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,202
View xmech2k's Gallery21
Thanked 214 Times in 212 Posts
Club: CVMRCC, SEFSD
Awards Showcase

1kW  Outstanding Contributor Award 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (7)
Default

Ouch! My head hurts! I know it can be tough to describe things like this. Any possibility you can post a pic? Are you saying 2 of the holes are further from the center than the other 2? I think that's common, and most motor mounts take that into consideration.
xmech2k is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 12:50 AM   #3
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by xmech2k View Post
Ouch! My head hurts! I know it can be tough to describe things like this. Any possibility you can post a pic? Are you saying 2 of the holes are further from the center than the other 2? I think that's common, and most motor mounts take that into consideration.

Haha. Thought it was gonna be confusing. You know the 4 screw holes on the stationary side of the motor, two are closer to the center and two are closer to the edge. If you played connect the dots with the holes
You would get a diamond shape. On the motor mount the holes are the same, but on one of the motors, the way the windings/wires exit causes the holes to line up wrong, so the holes on the motor mount won't line up. I can't pivot the motor as you feed the wires through, mount motor and feed them through again. The wires can't pivot and so I can't pivot the end of the motor to lineup. There is a slot where the winding exit wide enough to pivot the winding so the motor would line up, but the end is attached to the coils, in dont know if I can force the coils to move and cause the winding to move as well. Sorry I have no camera. It was destroyed using it as a cam for an rc car.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 01:40 AM   #4
Wildflyer
2014 President of PSSF
 
Wildflyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lacey WA, 1 mile E of Mushroom Corner
Posts: 1,049
Thanked 123 Times in 120 Posts
Club: Puget Sound Silent Flyers -PSSF & Thurston County Miniature Aircraft Association - TCMAA
iTrader: (3)
Friends: (7)
Default

Almost all of my smaller out runners, have the holes as you describe. I have some that are 16mm one way and 19mm the other. Some others are 19 x 25

If you can match either spacing, the motor should be mounted solidly enough to fly.

Without seeing your motor, I am going to make a guess as follows;
The stationary part of the motor carries the frame that the wires are wound on. I don't think you could change where the wires exit this piece, as that is sort of set when they wound the motor. I don't think they would have looked at the bolt pattern.

Tell us the model number, or the Strong Sku # Then we can look at the motor you have. You can clearly see the bolt patterns in their pictures. but they don;t show where the wires exit.

Dave R, Proud PGR rider.
When you have flying skills like mine,
You become a master at repair.
Wildflyer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 02:02 AM   #5
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
Almost all of my smaller out runners, have the holes as you describe. I have some that are 16mm one way and 19mm the other. Some others are 19 x 25

If you can match either spacing, the motor should be mounted solidly enough to fly.

Without seeing your motor, I am going to make a guess as follows;
The stationary part of the motor carries the frame that the wires are wound on. I don't think you could change where the wires exit this piece, as that is sort of set when they wound the motor. I don't think they would have looked at the bolt pattern.

Tell us the model number, or the Strong Sku # Then we can look at the motor you have. You can clearly see the bolt patterns in their pictures. but they don;t show where the wires exit.
Okay I just wanted to check. I guess the motor is useless for the mini switch. Luckily I bought 2 and the second one has the mounting holes the right orientation. Was just hoping to make the one useable for the plane
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 08:19 AM   #6
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

As other guy says - it's common for 2 hols to be xx mm apart and other 2 to be different mm apart ... the spacings are actually pretty standard for size of motors.

Trick if the motor won't fit in orientation you want - then glue a thin ply or plastic plate to other side of firewall to motor ... then drill through correct holes ... bolt up and Bob's your Aunts Brother ...

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 10:53 AM   #7
Flubber
Member
 
Flubber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 113
View Flubber's Gallery8
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Club: DE R/C, SKSS
iTrader: (2)
Friends: (0)
Default

Would the solution be to make another hole in the motor mount for the wires ? I have to do this all the time.

Terry

Flying is like ... ah well ... I can not think of anything it is like...
Flubber is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 06:43 PM   #8
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by Flubber View Post
Would the solution be to make another hole in the motor mount for the wires ? I have to do this all the time.
I don't have room to make another hole actually. The slots for the wires are incorporated into air inlets just behind the spinner, so where motor mount is installed so there is room between the foam. Its not a big deal anyways, because I had ordered two of the Strong motors and the other one lines up perfectly. I'll just end up using the other one for a future plane maybe, one that has the motor mount on the front with an x bracket.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 07:15 PM   #9
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

One thing I find annoying is that some of these motors come with 3.2mm shafts, and the collet adapter doesn't fit. The strong rc motor comes with a 3.2mm shaft as well. I have extra shafts from strong motors that are 3mm, but I don't understand why there has to be 3mm and 3.2mm, it should be 3mm, 4mm, 5mm...etc.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 07:45 PM   #10
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
One thing I find annoying is that some of these motors come with 3.2mm shafts, and the collet adapter doesn't fit. The strong rc motor comes with a 3.2mm shaft as well. I have extra shafts from strong motors that are 3mm, but I don't understand why there has to be 3mm and 3.2mm, it should be 3mm, 4mm, 5mm...etc.
It's because some shafts are based on Imperial measurements not metric.

You will find in that range - 3.17mm is more common than 3mm in fact.

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 07:51 PM   #11
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
It's because some shafts are based on Imperial measurements not metric.

You will find in that range - 3.17mm is more common than 3mm in fact.

Nigel
That makes sense, but why can't they just stick to one. The stock collet for the Switch is 3mm, and it is difficult getting a larger collet that will work with the Switch and the spinner assembly. I bought some Hyperion ones fit, but the part that pushes down on the collet to tighten it on the shaft isn't serrated and doesn't tighten down against the serrated spinner assembly of the mini switch.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 08:37 PM   #12
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
That makes sense, but why can't they just stick to one. The stock collet for the Switch is 3mm, and it is difficult getting a larger collet that will work with the Switch and the spinner assembly. I bought some Hyperion ones fit, but the part that pushes down on the collet to tighten it on the shaft isn't serrated and doesn't tighten down against the serrated spinner assembly of the mini switch.
Any chance of a photo ? You've lost me with this one now ...

I can say that with standard tapered collets - often you cannot fit spinners as the prop part of the shaft is shorter than required to get spinner back-plate + prop + washer in place for nut.

Here's a solution to a 3.17mm shaft and prop needing to add a spinner ... nice alloy job with centre screw etc.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...haft_1set.html

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2013, 08:49 PM   #13
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Any chance of a photo ? You've lost me with this one now ...

I can say that with standard tapered collets - often you cannot fit spinners as the prop part of the shaft is shorter than required to get spinner back-plate + prop + washer in place for nut.

Here's a solution to a 3.17mm shaft and prop needing to add a spinner ... nice alloy job with centre screw etc.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...haft_1set.html

Nigel
Thanks for the link, I like the looks of that more than the plastic. I used my laptop for taking the pic hope it's okay.


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	snapshot.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	14.2 KB
ID:	172252
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2013, 08:15 AM   #14
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
Thanks for the link, I like the looks of that more than the plastic. I used my laptop for taking the pic hope it's okay.
Many collet thrust washers which also compress the adaptor are not serrated. Also there is often a step in the shaft part that stops props / spinner backplates from sliding all way back ... so you ream out the spinner plate or prop to allow this step to slot in ...

Note I say REAM out ... do not drill.

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2013, 04:42 PM   #15
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Many collet thrust washers which also compress the adaptor are not serrated. Also there is often a step in the shaft part that stops props / spinner backplates from sliding all way back ... so you ream out the spinner plate or prop to allow this step to slot in ...

Note I say REAM out ... do not drill.

Nigel
Everything was fitting well. just when I tightened down with the non-serrated thrust washer, collet and motor shaft itself began to turn with the nut I was tightening, while I was holding the the spinner backplate and prop. With the serrated collet thrust washer, it grips the back plate and I can tighten it down better. For all I know it was tight enough with the non-serrated one, but that something I'd rather not risk.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2013, 09:47 PM   #16
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

NOW we are getting somewhere .. NOW I understand ...

OK - this is not an uncommon thing to happen. It's because the collet is not gripping the shaft hard enough for you to tighten down the nut.

DO NOT fly with it like that ...

I have 2 ways to cure this ...

a) BEFORE putting on prop / spinner .... you tap the collet ring down so that it tightens the adaptor on to the shaft ... THEN put on prop / spinner etc. ...

if that doesn't work .... then you can try :

b) Circle of thin carbo paper - the black type that you 'sand' metal with ... place over shaft and up against the collet ... then spinner / prop. The carborundum gives a bit of 'bite' to the collet.

I do have a way that works whatever but it is messy and marks the collet ... bent nose needle pliers inserted in behind and grip the collet enough to get nut and prop seated enough to hold while tightening the final bit. But it messes up the collet ...

Someone will likely tell you to roughen or sand the shaft ... yeh well Ok it may work - but it is definitely NOT engineering style .. as the collet system relies on full 100% dry contact ..

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 03:12 AM   #17
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Actually it couldn't have been slipping on the motor, as I was not holding the motor, but the spinner backplate and prop. With the switch I can't hold the motor. The collet thrust washer must have been slipping on the backplate, and at a certain point I couldn't tighten anymore before the slipping occurred. If I were able to secure the motor in place I would have been able to tighten more, or at least until when I would find out that the collet would be slipping. Clearly the hyperion collet was designed for a motor that mounts on the frony of the mount. I ordered that spinner you suggested though, definitely will improve the look of the plane. I also received a turnigy 2836 motor 1200kv. Should kick up the rpms a bit and with a larger can, there shouldn't be a heat issue I'm hoping. I also dialed in dual rates so I can test out how the plane handles being tossed around. The full sized switch was reviewed as being decent at doing acrobatics and I want to see this one doing some as well.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 03:49 AM   #18
hayofstacks
Super Contributor
 
hayofstacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,463
Thanked 109 Times in 108 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (4)
Default

the compression of the prop is what tightens the collet to the shaft. its spinning because one of the two surfaces isn't gripping against the propeller

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
hayofstacks is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 04:16 AM   #19
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default I

Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
the compression of the prop is what tightens the collet to the shaft. its spinning because one of the two surfaces isn't gripping against the propeller
Yep. With the mini switch a backplate goes over the colet thrust washer, then the prop, and this requires you to hold onto the backplate to tighten. The backplate as a serrated area and thus requires the collet thrust washer to be serrated as well
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 04:22 AM   #20
hayofstacks
Super Contributor
 
hayofstacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,463
Thanked 109 Times in 108 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (4)
Default

I generally only hold onto the prop and tighten the front part down. I find it generally starts to bite regardless. I've even does this with regular flat washers to space out the hub

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
hayofstacks is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 04:29 AM   #21
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
I generally only hold onto the prop and tighten the front part down. I find it generally starts to bite regardless. I've even does this with regular flat washers to space out the hub
It's probably the material of the backplate, likely not enough friction between the thrust washer without it being serrated. Also there is less flat surface contact because the backplate is serrated
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 06:18 AM   #22
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

Some collets have unclean threads and I have improved matters by running a die down the threads to clean them up.
If you don't have a die to fit - then run the nut up and down the thread repeatedly until you can do it with just fingers ... there's often a spot that has a burr or tight thread that just catches ...

This actually is found with many items we use in models ... helicopter feathering shafts have terrible threads inside for example ...

A set of taps and dies is a good tool to have to clean up and also make your own gear .. I have both Metric and BSW ...

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 07:39 AM   #23
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Some collets have unclean threads and I have improved matters by running a die down the threads to clean them up.
If you don't have a die to fit - then run the nut up and down the thread repeatedly until you can do it with just fingers ... there's often a spot that has a burr or tight thread that just catches ...

This actually is found with many items we use in models ... helicopter feathering shafts have terrible threads inside for example ...

A set of taps and dies is a good tool to have to clean up and also make your own gear .. I have both Metric and BSW ...

Nigel
That is a good idea, do they cost much? I just changed over the motor to the Turnigy 2836. Luckily it still balances well for a bit of a heavier motor than the 2830. The collet that came with it didn't much much of a serrated design on the thrust washer. Until the typical serrated design, it has a light parallel line pattern, and sure enough it didn't tighten down, but then suddenly it gripped somehow and I managed to get to tight. The collet leaves just enough room for the whole assembly to go on with the nut close to the end of the collet.
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 08:25 AM   #24
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,029
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 208 Times in 205 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (8)
Default

Most adaptors do not have enough length to have spinner backplates as well ... something I cannot understand why they don't just add a couple of mm's and then no problem.

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2013, 04:06 PM   #25
thepiper92
Member
 
thepiper92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 605
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (1)
Default

Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Most adaptors do not have enough length to have spinner backplates as well ... something I cannot understand why they don't just add a couple of mm's and then no problem.

Nigel
Yah I noticed that. That is why I bought the Hyperion ones. They were called 'XL'...and when I got them, all XL meant was that extra 3mm or so. This collet with the motor works tho, I shouldn't have to worry that the nut is near the edge should I?
thepiper92 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Reply

  WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight > R/C Electric Power - Batteries, Chargers, ESCs and More > Power Systems

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Super strong corner construction Wildflyer Scratch and Kit Built Aircraft 2 10-19-2011 06:41 PM
Foil tape for MSR repairs - ugly but strong and lightweight Thewyzardofdogz E-Flite Helicopters 1 04-16-2011 02:33 PM
I need strong dbl sided tape to mount servos... tehlump Scratch and Kit Built Aircraft 10 03-03-2011 09:01 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 02:14 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2005 WattfFlyer.com
RCU Eflight HQ

Charities we support Select: Yorkie Rescue  ::  Crohn's & Colitis Foundation



Page generated in 0.36935 seconds with 72 queries