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Old 12-07-2008, 05:12 AM   #1
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Default cowling construction

Have several planes which have been converted to brushless and now the cowlings do not fit. How do I make new ones? Someone suggestioned 2 liter coke bottles. How about a fantastic new procedure I don't know about. Please!!!
Larry
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:09 AM   #2
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Well, you can vaccu-form them if you want. You will have to make a "mold" though to do that. Really not to hard to do though. I have seen a few threads here and on RC Groups that explain how to make a contraption to do it, but I have not done it yet myself.

Good luck man, hope you get it all worked out.

Laine.

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Old 12-07-2008, 07:28 AM   #3
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Maybe this info might help, make a pattern cowel from balsa, then vacuum form, hope that helps, Chellie


http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...hlight=vaccume

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make...-plastic-vacu/

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f

http://www.ffscale.co.uk/page4f.htm

http://www.cstsales.com/tutorials/fiberglass_mold.pdf

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=1379325



http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3209607/tm.htm

http://www.ffscale.co.uk/page4g.htm

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Old 12-07-2008, 02:07 PM   #4
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Default Making Cowling

Wow!!!! Thank you for all of the links.

Lary
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Old 12-07-2008, 02:40 PM   #5
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Nice!! I've add those links to my collection. Thanks

A.M.A Park Pilot Partner / Wattflyer Mentor
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by colvid View Post
Wow!!!! Thank you for all of the links.

Lary
Originally Posted by newjak View Post
Nice!! I've add those links to my collection. Thanks
Your both very welcome, Take care and have fun, Chellie

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Old 01-30-2009, 02:00 AM   #7
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Cool Ready-made cowls from your local supermarket

Here's an idea for radial cowls, Skippy peanut butter (see photos), after you finish eating it of course ! The jars come in 2 sizes and are made of thin flexible plastic so they should handle some fairly hard hits.

Just cut a big round hole in the bottom and cut to the length you need, instant cowl. Then all you need to do is use fine sandpaper to roughen the outside surface for painting.

You could even use 2 jars, one for the cowl and another for the front part of the fuselage. Or how about cutting the top of the cover off and gluing the threads inside the cowl and putting the fuselage jar with the threads forward. You'd have a cowl that unscrews !!

Next time you go shopping, look at all the different plastic container sizes and shapes used for foodstuff, shampoos, spray and squirt bottles, etc. Even large vitamin bottles would be great for a multi-engine warbird. The choice is almost endless. Don't forget to check out the dollar stores.

Building a big radial-engine model like a Yak-54? How about a big Javex bottle.


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Old 01-30-2009, 03:28 AM   #8
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Default Cowling

Those are some great ideas Scorpion; we recycle and have many plastic containers which could have been used.
Larry
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Old 01-30-2009, 03:57 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by colvid View Post
Those are some great ideas Scorpion; we recycle and have many plastic containers which could have been used.
Larry
I've been use'in Yogurt cups for years! there GREAT!!!!!!! bubsteve


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Monkey Minion'air
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Old 01-30-2009, 05:43 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Scorpion View Post
Here's an idea for radial cowls, Skippy peanut butter (see photos), after you finish eating it of course ! The jars come in 2 sizes and are made of thin flexible plastic so they should handle some fairly hard hits.

Just cut a big round hole in the bottom and cut to the length you need, instant cowl. Then all you need to do is use fine sandpaper to roughen the outside surface for painting.

You could even use 2 jars, one for the cowl and another for the front part of the fuselage. Or how about cutting the top of the cover off and gluing the threads inside the cowl and putting the fuselage jar with the threads forward. You'd have a cowl that unscrews !!

Next time you go shopping, look at all the different plastic container sizes and shapes used for foodstuff, shampoos, spray and squirt bottles, etc. Even large vitamin bottles would be great for a multi-engine warbird. The choice is almost endless. Don't forget to check out the dollar stores.

Building a big radial-engine model like a Yak-54? How about a big Javex bottle.
Yes those work Great, and i Love skippy Peanut butter too

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Old 05-24-2010, 03:20 AM   #11
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Balsa radial cowl


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ID:	128518 Wrap sheet balsa around plywood discs. Sure enough, I quickly found a guy who needed the original GWS Zero cowl.
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Old 05-24-2010, 05:14 AM   #12
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Good stuff, Bill, I build my cowls the same way, except that I use 1/32 ply to wrap around the discs. Then I wrap soft balsa around that to come to the necessary thickness; lots of soaking in hot water aids the process. Just as tough as any plastic bottle IMHO, and I test my cowls often!
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Old 05-26-2010, 07:23 PM   #13
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Default Use a 3 Liter soda bottle and heat gun.

I have posted this on a thread about the E-Flite P-47, but didn't notice this thread til today. I am posting some pictures of the final result but I can describe the process and post earlier pictures later (does that make sense?).

1. Take original cowl and dig out a hole in your sandbox (we all have one right?) and dampen the hole with water from cup or glass.

2. Insert cowl into damp hole and fill in the gaps until you have a "negative" sand mold resembling your cowl (you have carefully extracted the cowl from the sandbox by now).

3. Make 4 parts plaster of paris to 1 part water mix to pour into the sand mold.

4. Pour plaster mix into sandbox mold and let set for two hours. It will be a little damp at that point depending on relative humidity but plenty strong for a heat mold.

5. Take your 3 liter (or 2 liter bottle depending on size of your plane) and saw off the bottom of the bottle leaving the cap end in place.

6. You can make a wooden jig (see this thread by Barry [baz49exe]: http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36104) to hold the plaster plug or just melt the overlapping bottom of the bottle over the back end of the plaster plug with your $10 heat gun (do this on LOW). Either way you will be cutting- a dremel plastic cutting wheel is ideal here. I have not used a releasing agent (e.g. vaseline, etc.), but I would recommend it if you want an intact plaster plug for re-use. I cracked mine.

7. Once you are satisfied with the results, use either your Dremel or a razor saw to remove the bottle neck (in front) and overlapping plastic in the rear of the plug to release your plaster mold.


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"Dum spiro spero." (While I breathe, I hope).
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:14 AM   #14
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HI,
I have had good luck making cowls, as well as repairing noses, with epoxy and
Dollar store KNEE HIGH HOSE. They come 10 for a buck and in various colors.
Rough out a cowl shape out of plain ole stirofoam, just get it fairly smooth. smear it with your favorite 15 (or slower) minute epoxy, pull one hose over apply more epoxy and pull over one or two ....about 4 will make a fairly stiff cowl, less works fine for little ones. A bit of fiber glass or Carbon fiber between hose layers could be used to stiffen up the rims on big uns. This comes out flat in finish but final coat of epoxy thinned out a bit will make it shiny. If you want it painted omit the final coat of epoxy and just smear it with spackle ,sand and paint. Hog out the foam after or disolve it out with acetone. I just hog it out and lightly sand the inside as I don't like the mess of disolving it out. Some foam can be left in intentionally for structure too.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:25 AM   #15
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That's interesting. I'll try and keep that in mind. When do you cut the openings for the motor, etc.?

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Old 10-07-2012, 08:43 PM   #16
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Default cutting formed cowls

Trim the piece and cut openings when the epoxy is setting up. That is when its not the least bit sticky but still flexable. Scissor will work just fine at that point. If it does get hard no problem just use you Dremmel tool and a sanding drum.
If you cowl has an irregular shape cover the wet epoxy with bits of plastic wrap (use pieces to avoid wrinkles) then cover with soft foam or rags to fill inside curvs etc.)and wrap with an ace wrap. (This step is BEFORE taking out the foam mold ) Wrap NOT TO TIGHTLY, you don't want to mishapen it. This is harder to do but leaves a glassy surface. Its a similar process to making a one off fuse.

Take a few "minutes" () to puruse hand launch glider building vids on you tube. Lots of building tricks there but the real gold mine of info is in free flight building. The light structure techniques apply well in electric plane construction. Lots of those old school planes showing up as electrics these days and I think that is really cool.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:25 AM   #17
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Default LOVE IT

PLEASE make sure this thread stays up !
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:50 AM   #18
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still here 5 years later....

we ve been building up a 3d printed cowling that is showing some promise.
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:47 AM   #19
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Copy the link and place it in your bookmarks or favorites:

That way you'll always have it as a reference.........

AMA 928214
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:21 PM   #20
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We
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Old 08-03-2013, 09:50 PM   #21
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We have been working on 3D printed model airplane parts. This includes Cowls, Landing gear, Sailplane nose blocks, basically those labor intensive things that can really slow down the construction of an airplane, We have also been expirementing with parts that would really benefit by being made out of plastic. I am sure that many of you have an airplane that has some plastic damage and it is hard to find replacement parts or maybe they are in China? If any of this intrest you check these out.



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Old 08-04-2013, 04:14 AM   #22
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That's pretty cool. What sort of plastic are the printed parts?

Tom
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:35 AM   #23
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pla plastic. you can also print with abs if that's how you setup your printer.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:32 AM   #24
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Default 3D printed parts

Originally Posted by tr4252 View Post
That's pretty cool. What sort of plastic are the printed parts?

Tom
It uses PLA or Poly Lactic Acid. This is a low heat very strong plastic. There have been dozens of plastic used. The most popular are ABS that's plastic Lego's are made of. And PLA which is stronger then ABS. If you have ever stepped on a Lego then you know how tough it is.

PLA smells a lot better then ABS and that is why I use it.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:27 PM   #25
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Thank you.

What sort of programs do you use in translating the concept to finished part? I use Autocad and can write G Code programs for CNC, but do not work much in complex 3D forms.

Tom
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