Now when I plug in the battery, everything seems normal. I take off and fly for a bit, then when I land, the motor continues to spin. It's almost like an idle type spinning of a glow engine, when the transmitter throttle lever is fully down. It's not enough thrust to move the plane and the throttle won't advance the speed of the motor.
Is this a sign of an overheating ESC?
I did attempt to fly with all 6 servos, before installing the ParkBEC. I quickly realized the error of my ways when the servos weren't happy. They were jumpy and had bad delays, but I managed to get back on the ground safely. Could that have damaged the ESC?
Do some careful ground testing after you remove prop.
You are right, even if the trim was bumped up a little during flight, which would seem right when the prop did not stop. It does not explain why the throttle stick did not speed up the motor. (assuming Tx was on)
I had a smaller plane than yours, jump to life in the middle of a test. These electric props are just a little duller than a good knife, and they are sharper than some of my knives.
Be careful, always remove prop when something doesn't act correctly.
Well mclarkson, You seem to have been correct. I moved the throttle trim down a bit and the problem of the propeller turning at low speed has been solved. Thank you!
I am still having issues with some servo delays. But, I've narrowed it down to when I mix the flaps & ailerons to operate together. This mix moves all 4 wings servos at one time, essentially making the ailerons full length. Could this just be overloading the external ParkBEC?
Thanks fhhuber! You prompted me to do a little more learning about BEC options and I think I'mm just gonna upgrade to a Castle Creations Talon 35. It has a much larger capacity switching BEC built in and I won't need a separate BEC. Hopefully that will do the trick & eliminate the brown outs.
I did get a watt meter and check things out. It seems that when I move all 4 wing servos at the same time I'm right up at the 1.25 amp capacity of the ParkBEC.
here is a switchmode esc heads up sells for $25. it has a 6 amp bec and is the same switchmode style of most higher end esc's. a similar esc will cost you $50-100 for a castle one.I very rarely recommend a part I haven't purchased, but heads up has great customer service and I believe Jeff actually uses his products and knows what works and what doesn't.
you could probably get away with the 30 amp esc, but I pull 26 amps out of my mini ultra stick and I like a bit more wiggle room for my margin of safety.
slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
Thanks haystacks! For my interest, how do you have the power train of your MUS setup? I started with the recommended setup from Eflite, but I'm also looking for a little more performance. I'm now thinking bigger motor, bigger battery, etc... I'll give the ESC you recommend a try.
So, I just picked up a Castle Creations Talon 35. Thanks for the heads up about Heads Up Hooby, hayofstacks, I'll give them a try on my next model. My LHS had the Castle in stock so, instant gratification & supporting the local guy won.
It's all soldered up and installed. On initial tests, on the bench, it seems that my MUS issues may be solved. I checked the current going to the servos and I was just peaking over the 1.25Amp capacity of the ParkBEC, when I moved all 6 servos at the same time and quickly. The 5amp capacity in the Castle more than covers the servo draw when all 6 digital servos are moving fast.
And simply moving the trim on the throttle has solved the slow rotation of the motor.
Thanks for all the help!
Now to wrap up my Precision Aerobatics Mini Katana build...