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Scale E-Powered Aircraft Discuss electric powered scale models here.

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Old 06-13-2015, 08:02 PM   #1
hbgandy
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Default Balsa USA and Proctor kits- electric conversions?

I wish to convert to electric either the Balsa USA Eindecker 40 kit or the Proctor Mini Antic. Any build threads out there? Thanks.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:37 PM   #2
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I can suggest to take a few steps back and assess the entire build. Top hatches are all the rage when it comes to electrics and are actually pretty easy to accommodate with proper foresight. Have a few kit builds under your belt certainly help as well though.
Here's a House of Balsa Spacewalker I decided to make into a bolt on wing (vs. rubber bands) and fashioned a good sized top hatch. It was open motor bay and worked great until I realised my Sig Piper Cub cowl fit like a glove. Anyhow. Interlocking studs to the firewall and magnets in the rear can greatly increase the enjoyment of a conversion. Nobody really "likes" having to turn a plane over to access the battery.





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Old 06-14-2015, 05:13 AM   #3
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Usually not a big problem altering for e-power if you plan it early.

Move firewall forward because the electric outrunner will be shorter than the glow you are replacing.

Make plans for the battery compartment and hatch... generally using the area originally intended for fuel tank + the space created by moving the firewall.

Your biggest problem will be CG. Plan to relocate the servos to aid in getting the plane to balance without adding lead.
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Old 06-14-2015, 05:39 AM   #4
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Default CG issues

What I've done on my scratch built electric conversions of glow type models, is before covering the model, temporarily install the radio system, run a dowel through the fuse sticking out through the nose of the model. Then put it on a balance jig.
Then place the ESC, motor and battery pack on that dowel, and move it forward or backward until it balances. Once that's established, then move the motor an inch or two forward to allow for the covering weight and so on. Now, just build up the fuselage nose to the required length. Crude, but it works.

Much better to have the nose slightly longer than needed, than to have to put lead shot in the nose to balance.
FYI, just about every glow conversion to electric I've done wound up tail heavy. And I use those overweight A123 cells.

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Old 06-14-2015, 06:06 AM   #5
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Somehow I almost always figure out how to not need any lead or stretch the nose to get correct CG...

for a scale model stretching the nose would just look wrong.
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