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Hi-Performance and Sailplanes RC hotliners, electric pylon racers, F5B, F5D, sailplanes and gliders

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Old 02-13-2007, 04:11 PM   #1
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Default What is your preferred Color scheme for Sailplanes?

I am building a Bird of Time from kit and am ready to think about color scheme. Up to now, I have preferred transparent orange Monocote for wings and some solid color for fuse. Now, I am thinking of solid orange for fuse with solid yellow for inner wing panels and transparent orange for outer wing panels. Also, I might try to put solid white on the leading edges to cover the leading edge sheeting if I were confident that I could do that.
Any suggestions/advice?
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Old 02-13-2007, 05:53 PM   #2
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My suggestion would be to keep it dark on the underside. If you want too, use two contrasting colors on the underside. I think yellow and white probably don't contrast enough. Be aware that the white will disappear with some cloud cover, yellow tends to disappear pretty easily as well. I have a gentle Lady Wing that is red, white and blue underneath. The contrast helps me to see it. Of course the new glasses that I got help even more
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Old 02-13-2007, 06:34 PM   #3
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Ohiopete,

Welcome to Wattflyer!

Bird,

I like to use a combination of high contrast colors like red/white, red/yellow and blue/white. Typically I will use a darker color on bottom with lighter color strips. On the top I will typically have a lighter color with high contrasting wingtip colors. Also, on my gliders I will use a reflective tape on the leading edges to help with orientation at altitude.
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Old 02-14-2007, 12:45 AM   #4
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NO YELLOW!! Especially if you live where the grass is predominately brown most of the summer.

Dark on bottom, light on top, stripe on one wing works and simple to do.

Too many colors make the plane hard to see if you need to land a long ways away or like to thermal in the clouds.

Andrew
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Old 02-15-2007, 03:06 AM   #5
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Red face Color Scheme Puzzle

I am glad to get your views but I am confused. I have thought and, I think, seen that solid colors all look black much above 500ft. It has appeared to me that orange and yellow do best when the sun is reflected off them and transparent orange best when the sun is shining through the wing. Of course, I may be all wet on this. I often am.
I would appreciate your opinions.
Thanks
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Old 02-15-2007, 04:39 AM   #6
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I have had good success with something like orange on top and chrome silver monokote (or similar) on the bottom. BLack on the bottom of the wing has worked well for me too. Unless you fly in snow or sand covered areas, the silver tends to reflect the darker ground below (usually green or brown here)or glint in the sun and has been relatively easy to spot at altitude. The orange &/or silver also provides high contrast when
looking for a lost aircraft in the weeds or trees. I'm sure mosts folks have their favorite combinations.
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:00 AM   #7
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No yellow?? Okay, I've been doing it wrong for 35 years now without ANY problems. Previous satements about any colour is black over 500' is right, translucents disappear at relatively short ranges, and any colour seems to work on fuselages, the darker the better.

I used to spend a lot of time at the field, and I would like $5 for every airplane that I finally spotted way downwind and brought back, and I found out what works and what doesn't. Good eyesight helps, but a yellow wing flashing in a tight turn can't be missed!
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Old 02-25-2007, 05:12 PM   #8
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Take an ophthalmologist's word for what are the most visible color combinations: http://www.ultimatecharger.com/color.html

I use lots of day-glow colors on low flying fast planes, and high contrast combinations with neon colored rudders on sailplanes.

FC


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Old 03-18-2007, 01:12 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bird View Post
I am building a Bird of Time from kit and am ready to think about color scheme. Up to now, I have preferred transparent orange Monocote for wings and some solid color for fuse.Bird
Hi Bird

Unfortunately one of the things one gets from this type of forum is advice from other disciplines where the visual requirements are not the same. The need for quick differentiation/recognition from a [low] couloured background like trees; hills, cars, and buildings on a short wingspan, hot aerobatic model are a lot different to the requirements of picking up a high aspect ratio; thin winged, glider at the limits of vision. Trying to pick up 'your' model out of a group of 6-10 at 1,000 -2,000 feet plus and also trying to tell which way the thing is going is a lot different visual task compared to other forms of the sport.

There is a rider on what colour combinations are suitable, ie., what type of sky do you generally fly in, light white puffy clouds and clear skies or predominantly overcast?

I generally subscribe to the need to have dark undersides and my moulded models follow that trend. It is true once above 1,000 feet everything looks black, so the logic is to colour it black to differentiate from white cloud/blue. I have found the black not to be so good in dark grey skies where I have noticed that the guys with combinations of [solid] red/yellow in large panels or stripes show up first when eveyone is descending for landings at the end of F3J tasks. Multiple colours/bomb bursts/chevrons tend to break your colours into too small a 'blob' to have any dominant effect at extreme altitude, so you get a camouflage effect. Large contrasting panels or stripes for the underside are best in light/dark colour combinations. I have started using this scheme on my moulded planes as in the photo.

For the top surface you need a contrast and I have found that a largely light coloured top with a dark contrasting tip helps in long distance orientation. When you are a long way away horizontally the alternate effect of dark bottom/light top circling in a thermal helps orientation.

For clear skies and built/up structures there is a better solution altogether. You are right the CORRECT transparent colour fluoresces with the sun above/behind it. The plane literally 'lights up' like a coal in a fire and glows against the blue and is much easier to see than solid colours. I had a BOT which was coloured in orange Coverite and it just glowed like a neon sign every time the sun shone and it helped me win many, many contests. I also had a maroon Super Monocote on an RO8 which glowed as well.

This does not apply to all transparent colours and there are some to definitely avoid. Dark green and Purple transparent work but do not 'fluoresce' like the maroon/orange. I recently tried transparent yellow Oracover [Profilm] on my 2M Chrysalis and it just disappeared over 500' and especially low down on landing approach against a background of trees/buildings. To improve things I put fluro red/orange signwriters film tips on the underside and these fluoresce perfectly [the transparent yellow lets the light through from the top] and it has fixed the orientation problems.

As a help I also wear 'Drive Wear' tinted lenses in my prescription glasses which are designed to empasize the red/green colours of traffic lights. These work amazingly well for picking out reds at high altitudes.

Cheers
Dave


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Old 03-18-2007, 02:05 AM   #10
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Dave,

Welcome to Wattflyer!
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Old 03-18-2007, 06:15 AM   #11
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What's your typical sky?
Out here it's usually blue.
White planes show up well...
but when there's broken clouds, they merge into the cloud.
An electric.. yellow top works in all skies..
A couple of Easy Gliders.
Mine is the pretty one...


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Old 03-18-2007, 12:24 PM   #12
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Default Colour scheme

So that's where all the blue sky went..
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Old 03-18-2007, 12:39 PM   #13
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Default Colours

I have a Filip 600 which is partial red under the wings and most of the rest is yellow. The yellow disappears against cloud so banking towards me the model vanishes at around 800ft.
My Swift had yellow - transparent centre panels and blue transparent tips. In cloud the yellow fades but is surprisingly visible. In sun, the yellow glows and the blue turns black against the sky - good visibility.
My 700 version of the Filip has purple see-through wings, carbon/kevlar D-box and remains visible at any distance

See-through white is a definite no! - it's like flying a jellyfish at anything other than close-in.


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Old 03-19-2007, 02:47 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Tony Oliver View Post
So that's where all the blue sky went..
.
Yup.. we gots it, and we ain't gonna share it!
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Old 03-19-2007, 06:21 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Ohiopete View Post
My suggestion would be to keep it dark on the underside. If you want too, use two contrasting colors on the underside. I think yellow and white probably don't contrast enough. Be aware that the white will disappear with some cloud cover, yellow tends to disappear pretty easily as well. I have a gentle Lady Wing that is red, white and blue underneath. The contrast helps me to see it. Of course the new glasses that I got help even more
Correct. Try flying a plane with a light bottom and a dark top, and you'll know why. With the shadow underneath, the top and bottom look the same. With a Hellcat, where the wing is sort of a mid-wing, it gets real confusing.

I have borderline (barely need glasses) vision, where I see perfectly to about 10 feet, and then it slowly tapers off. Can drive fine without glasses. Just the street signs are a pain to read. I've driven to the park to fly, forgetting my glasses. Makes for more challenging flights.

Bill
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Old 03-19-2007, 06:53 PM   #16
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If you're lucky enough to have a good sky, transparent yellow works best!
It really glows, especially on the outboard panels.
If your sky is generally cloudy, then dark bottoms.. and light tops work best.


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Old 03-20-2007, 11:50 PM   #17
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I try to pick out two different colors on the opposite ends of the grayscale.

For instance I like to use Navy Blue with White or Yellow.

White and Orange with some broad Black lines on the wings and a Black body are also a favorite of mine.

I had one glider with a blue body, yellow nose, partially yellow rudder and wings that were huge yellow and red squares. Ugly as sin on the ground but sure did help in the air.

Dark bottom with light top, adding another contrasting color to the mix on your rudder or nose and using transparent colors on the wings and tail if it's built up are all proven ideas. Yes, stay away from transparent purple unless it's only on the bottom of the wing. It turns black real quick 400 to 700 ft or so depending.

I also like to place a contrasting 5" band or two smaller 2"-3" ones just inwards from my left wingtip and match, in scale, the left elevator and left side of the rudder.

We're born then we die, between that is where life happens.
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:50 PM   #18
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Hi All,

I know this might seem obvious, but I think I get in the most trouble when I look away for a second (to check the status of the field or something stupid catches my eye...) and then try to find my airplane and determine it's current orientation. Sometimes I can just force myself to believe something different than what i perceive because I know that it is impossible based on it's last known trajectory. That is a difficult thing, but a little "up" or "right/left" can confirm this. I think that works for me about 30% of the time... I guess, for me, the best solution is to have someone close enough to ask about the current conditions for landing so I don't have to look away or, even better, another set of eyes on the plane to ask when it gets weird. Sometimes you can't change the color scheme and that is all you are left with...

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Old 06-23-2007, 04:20 AM   #19
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Default Here's my new EGE

Monokote Trim works nice!


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Old 06-23-2007, 10:49 AM   #20
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I totally agree with franny's comments,and appreciate the problems.

The real problem for me is the need to be able to look away occasionally for orientation when the model is higher- over 1000ft - and find it again. In a partly cloudy sky, positioning is reasonable as you retain a 'picture' of the model against a particular area of sky. If the model is hard to see (2 metre model at that height for example) then the top a light colour, bottom dark, means that it can be invisible for near 3/4 of a turn. That gives it plenty of time to move to a different part of the sky from where you expected it to be. I'm sure we've all been there on occasions. Add that to a featureless sky and the fact that your eyes come to rest at a 3ft focus, you really need to keep your wits about you.
It seems clear that we all have different conditions to cope with and there's no definitive answer which fits all situations.
It's very boring, but I have an over all preference for a deep red model which fits the conditions I usually fly in - medium to light grey cloud and pale blue sky. I find that anything which breaks up the colour and shape of the model(ie stripes, colour changes, stickers etc) reduce the distance at which visibility becomes difficult. Splinter camouflage on boats does the same thing deliberately.
The site I fly from is on the top of a mound above the general area with low hills about 20 miles away and the sea on the other. I developed the habit of glancing away often as there is nothing within range, other than the sky, to keep track of where the model is.
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Old 07-01-2007, 09:47 AM   #21
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For me it is black, dark blue or dark red on the bottom of the wings and fuselage.

Tops can be a variety of light colors, including white, bright red, yellow, etc. I have not done much in transparent but I like the idea. YOu cansee damage without cutting the covering off to check.

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Old 08-30-2007, 11:20 PM   #22
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What if you made the port underside of the wing white and the starport underside of the wing red/blue/black/etc do you guys think that would help? It would also give a quick reference for direction if you can remember which side is which color.

Alia Iacta Est...
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Old 08-30-2007, 11:41 PM   #23
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From experience, white does not show up well against the sky. Typically you use a dark color on both wings. What some do is leave a large like or white colored stripe under one wing for contrast so you can tell one from the other. This works better than having one all white.

Personally I don't find it all that helpful, but that is me.

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Old 08-31-2007, 10:15 AM   #24
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Default Contrasting colours

On the face of it, having one wing one colour and the other a contrasting one seems a good idea. However, when at height, you are effectively halving the area to show up. If white contrasts well, the other will disappear and you are effectively flying a model half the size of the full thing. It will disappear quicker than you may need.

I suppose the real answer is to avoid breaking up the outline and keep things as simple as possible. A lot of stripes, chequered patterns, etc make very effective camouflage if we are not careful. Having the top a different colour to the bottom may work - at least you may have a chance to see it half the time. But you still need to be able to pick up that speck in the sky if you lose it when distracted for some reason. It's very boring, but with the sort of conditions I generally fly in, a darkish red all over is the most visible colour as it shows up black against the sky and is visible on the ground and against foliage/scenery in the a background (for example, when slope soaring low down).

It's often complicated when flying with half a dozen others in a competition wherer you need to be able to pick out which model is yours. I would think most of us have 'flown' someone else's model for a short time in those circumstances.

The point is that we have so many different situations to cover - sky make-up, background, identification, size and height, that there is unlikely to be an over-all answer. Horses for courses.
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:18 PM   #25
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I added some chrome stick-on Monocoat to the wingtips and the rudder of my Gentle Lady. It really helps since the chrome will "flash" when the sunlight strikes it just right. There is also a prism type tape you can use as well but my LHS has the chrome and it works well for me.
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