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Old 06-03-2011, 03:32 AM   #1
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Cool Cut off switch help

I have been building and flying foamys for about a year. I think it would be great to have a cut off switch to the lipo battery. So when i install the lipo i can switch the plane on. And then switch it off. instead of taking the wing off before i turn the TX off. I am thinking an inline switch to cut off one side of the lipo. The switches i use in my nitro rc have thin wires. What switch can i use. And whats a good way to set it up.
Thanks Tom
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:31 AM   #2
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Tom
it is a nice idea but the problem is that most switches will not handle the current load of putting them in the path of the battery to the ESC. One thing you might consider is an arming plug. It is referenced among other places in this thread:

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62311

see post # 20
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:33 AM   #3
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here you go Tom And Welcome to Wattflyers, I read your profile, Favorite pet : Wife Thats a good one, I Love a sence of Humor in a person, Take care and have fun, Chellie

http://www.rctoys.com/rc-toys-and-pa...RS-WIRING.html


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Old 06-04-2011, 03:43 AM   #4
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I like the idea of an arming switch. However could you put one between the ESC and the motor (you only have to disconnect one wire to disable a brushless, right)? In theory this would let you power up the ESC and the reciever, then check all the servos without having to worry about your plane going Veg-A Matic on you? Obviously you wouldn't get a beep, because the motor does that and it would be disconnected.

Would this work or am I just whistling the Confederate national anthem?

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Teach a man to build a plane and he'll fly for a lifetime"
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Old 06-04-2011, 03:50 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
I like the idea of an arming switch. However could you put one between the ESC and the motor (you only have to disconnect one wire to disable a brushless, right)? In theory this would let you power up the ESC and the reciever, then check all the servos without having to worry about your plane going Veg-A Matic on you? Obviously you wouldn't get a beep, because the motor does that and it would be disconnected.

Would this work or am I just whistling the Confederate national anthem?
the outie would still "phase" and bump around and jerk some,,,
best to made a deans switch from a male and female deans connectors, to switch + lipo lead. I use this set-up on a few planes, bubsteve

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Old 06-04-2011, 03:53 AM   #6
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way down South ,,
in Dixieland!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!your bub,steve

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Old 06-04-2011, 10:27 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by stevecooper View Post
the outie would still "phase" and bump around and jerk some,,,
best to made a deans switch from a male and female deans connectors, to switch + lipo lead. I use this set-up on a few planes, bubsteve
Great Idea Steve Take care and have fun, Chellie

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Old 06-04-2011, 04:32 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
I like the idea of an arming switch. However could you put one between the ESC and the motor (you only have to disconnect one wire to disable a brushless, right)? In theory this would let you power up the ESC and the reciever, then check all the servos without having to worry about your plane going Veg-A Matic on you? Obviously you wouldn't get a beep, because the motor does that and it would be disconnected.

Would this work or am I just whistling the Confederate national anthem?
I'd be a little careful on just disconnecting one wire of a brushless motor to disable power to the motor. Could be some of those many many ESC's on the market won't like it. And maybe fail in the process.

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Old 06-04-2011, 04:34 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mckibben View Post
I have been building and flying foamys for about a year. I think it would be great to have a cut off switch to the lipo battery. So when i install the lipo i can switch the plane on. And then switch it off. instead of taking the wing off before i turn the TX off. I am thinking an inline switch to cut off one side of the lipo. The switches i use in my nitro rc have thin wires. What switch can i use. And whats a good way to set it up.
Thanks Tom
You can find switches that can handle the current pulled by the ESC of a foamy model airplane. Problem is, that switch might be a fair percentage of the total weight of the foamy model airplane.

Most toggle switches don't go much over 10 Amps or so.

DennyV
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
here you go Tom And Welcome to Wattflyers, I read your profile, Favorite pet : Wife Thats a good one, I Love a sence of Humor in a person, Take care and have fun, Chellie

http://www.rctoys.com/rc-toys-and-pa...RS-WIRING.html

Wow, not rated for amperage. I'd have to get rid of those icky Deans Plugs too! EC3 FTW! Looks like trial and terror time though, with no amp rating.....
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Old 06-04-2011, 09:33 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Rockin Robbins View Post
Wow, not rated for amperage. I'd have to get rid of those icky Deans Plugs too! EC3 FTW! Looks like trial and terror time though, with no amp rating.....
I make my own putting the female right on the hot leg and wire and solder the back of the male,, cover with heatshrink or tape,,Only one pair needed not three and no added wire either,,MUCH LIGHTER!! this will handle my power 10 pulling a butt-load of Amps with no probs or heat,,bubsteve

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Old 06-04-2011, 11:40 PM   #12
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Then there are some ESC's available that have an on/off 'arming switch'... such as the Air Boss ESCs by Extreme Flight.

I have one of these fitted to my Yak 54. While the switch does not physically disconnect the battery it does isolate the RC gear and turn off the ESC so the motor cant start.

I cant understand why these switches aren't used more commonly, seems like such an obvious good idea

Steve
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Old 06-04-2011, 11:46 PM   #13
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Thanks,, your right,, it ain't right that they don't do that,,most my old brushed ESC did and do, bubsteve

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Old 06-05-2011, 05:42 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by stevecooper View Post
I make my own putting the female right on the hot leg and wire and solder the back of the male,, cover with heatshrink or tape,,Only one pair needed not three and no added wire either,,MUCH LIGHTER!! this will handle my power 10 pulling a butt-load of Amps with no probs or heat,,bubsteve
A brilliant idea! Just like a bind plug on steroids and you KNOW it will handle the amperage you'll be using.
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Old 06-05-2011, 06:55 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
While the switch does not physically disconnect the battery it does isolate the RC gear and turn off the ESC so the motor cant start.

I cant understand why these switches aren't used more commonly, seems like such an obvious good idea
They're probably not used precisely because they don't isolate the battery so it's still taking current. So unless you unplug the lipo it will still die.

Also they do not necessarily prevent the motor from starting up. An old clubmate of mine still has the scars to prove this after his motor kicked into life despite the ESC switch being off. An ESC usually won't arm with the switch off but if at the end of a flight you just switch off when the ESC is already live....it's still armed.

If I get an ESC with one fitted I remove it immediately...I don't like that false sense of security.

Steve
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:30 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Rockin Robbins View Post
Wow, not rated for amperage. I'd have to get rid of those icky Deans Plugs too! EC3 FTW! Looks like trial and terror time though, with no amp rating.....
Hi RR that disconnect has a 14 gauge wire on it, if your lipos have a 14 gauge wire on them or smaller, you can use it, most lipos have 14 gauge wire on them. Hope that helps, Chellie

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Old 06-06-2011, 01:42 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by slipstick View Post
They're probably not used precisely because they don't isolate the battery so it's still taking current. So unless you unplug the lipo it will still die.
Yup, the brushless ESC's are orders of magnitude more complex than the old brush type ESC. The brush type ESC basically had one Fet (or a number of Fet's in parallel). If you turned off the driver circuitry, that Fet just sat there, turned off, taking the load off of the battery supplying it.

But these brushless ESC's have a three phase driver with six Fets (or again parallel connected Fets). Turning off the driver AND the 6 Fets, with a little switch, is a problem not easily solved.

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Old 10-26-2011, 01:59 AM   #18
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Default arming plug switch from www.sharpRC.com is a winner

Here is a winner! See these "ArmSafe" arming plug switch systems from www.sharpRC.com . Super small, even on the inside of the plane, and the actual plug is not all gangley like others. I use these on all my electric planes over 15amps. The pylon racing guys are running these at 80+ amps with 10AWG wire!! But when you get to these levels you need to be able to solder good, they have a video on sharpRC for how to solder deans plugs.


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Old 05-26-2014, 11:50 PM   #19
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Default Cut off switch Idea from NewBe

Why can't a switch be put between the BEC Futaba connector = ( Blk/Red/Wht ) which is the Throttle control, and after output of switch plug into the receiver

Picture Ex.
= (BEC) {Futaba Connector} --> [switch]--> Receiver
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:58 AM   #20
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You can... but you have to make sure its a switch harness with all 3 wires active.

JR/Spektrum make a harness that would work and you can bind through it when its plugged into the batt/bind slot.

However your plan does NOT guarantee that the motor won't start with the switch off (RX turned off but ESC armed) That is why no one does it.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:31 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
You can... but you have to make sure its a switch harness with all 3 wires active.

JR/Spektrum make a harness that would work and you can bind through it when its plugged into the batt/bind slot.

However your plan does NOT guarantee that the motor won't start with the switch off (RX turned off but ESC armed) That is why no one does it.
Agreed: Check posting #15 in this thread. Someone got hurt doing exactly that with an ESC, when the motor powered up. It all depends on how good of a job the ESC Engineering team did while designing their ESC's. My various Castle Creations ESC's won't power up without a valid servo signal. That said, with several thousand watts up front, as fhhuber points out, it's just not safe. No matter what brand ESC is being used.

Add to that, the risk of accidentally leaving the ESC plugged in for a long while, and ruining a perfectly good LiPo battery.

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Old 05-27-2014, 11:34 AM   #22
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In Europe "Arming plugs" have been mandatory for rc boat racing for a number of years.
Must be between the esc and battery, must also be mounted outside the boat so it can be pulled if/when the boat needs retrieval.
Couple years ago I was on retrieval duty, picked up a number of boats, the last one I had to set in the bottom of an aluminum boat, failsafe wasn't set properly, thing went to full throttle in the bottom of the boat as soon as it lost bind.
Threw it back in the water and let the guy drive it back it!
I think they are a great idea, to be honest I never really though of adding one to my planes though.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:25 AM   #23
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Heck yeah on any of my birds that require removal of a wing to access the packs get what my buds call a "butt plug" Simple self built Dean's plug on the hot wire to the esc. I hide mine under the pilot bust.


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Old 05-29-2014, 01:59 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Glacier Girl View Post
Heck yeah on any of my birds that require removal of a wing to access the packs get what my buds call a "butt plug" Simple self built Dean's plug on the hot wire to the esc. I hide mine under the pilot bust.
One of my club members went to a large RC fly-in a few weeks ago, and brought back photos of someone who got hit by a mid sized electric model. He plugged in the battery, and the motor fired up. Right now.

It took some 30 stitches to fix the damage to the guys arm. Those safety plugs are worth their weight in gold.

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