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Old 01-02-2014, 05:11 PM   #1
hkeelljr
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Default Bitty bipe

Haven't really started on my bitty bipe yet, although I've cut out the ribs for both wings. But on the plans it shows the elevator halves controlled by split push rods. Would it be ok just to join them together and use a single push rod? In other news missed the deadline to submit photos of my contester build to MAN, oh well, I did manage to build my first r/c airplane and fly it, and that in itself to me is a highlight of my modeling career. After seeing some of the other entries, maybe its just as well.
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:46 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by hkeelljr View Post
Haven't really started on my bitty bipe yet, although I've cut out the ribs for both wings. But on the plans it shows the elevator halves controlled by split push rods. Would it be ok just to join them together and use a single push rod? In other news missed the deadline to submit photos of my contester build to MAN, oh well, I did manage to build my first r/c airplane and fly it, and that in itself to me is a highlight of my modeling career. After seeing some of the other entries, maybe its just as well.
Sure you can join the 2 elevator halves together, use some bass wood, thats what i use on my planes, or a popsicle stick

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:27 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Sure you can join the 2 elevator halves together, use some bass wood, thats what i use on my planes, or a popsicle stick
Or a U bent wire ...

Whatever you use - make sure the elevators are joined, set flat and weighted down while glue is drying ... the number of slightly out elevators over the years - I've lost count !



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Old 01-05-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
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Thanks for your tips will probably use eight inch dowel and epoxy to join the two halves. Cut out the fuse halves on the bipe and while doing so, I saved the rib area cutouts and trimmed them to match the regular ribs. These will be used at the fuse so they will match the outline perfectly since they came from there.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:58 PM   #5
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Built the rudder on the bitty, will tackle the stab next, also glued the 1/32 ply doubler to both inside places on the fuse using an old favorite sig bond glue. Its so nice having things already cut out. Now I need to get a bigger building board so I can start on the wings. I like to use one inch thick foam board as a building board, so far I've not not had much problems with warps.
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:12 PM   #6
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Default bitty bipe

Got a few photo's to share, the first shows the two fuselage sections with the 1/32 ply doublers in place, next is the stab and finally the rudder. The cold weather has caused havoc as far as doing stuff outdoors and in my workshop which don't have any heat. And if I put enough clothes to be warm, I can't hardly move or work. Bringing everything indoors is a pain, so I'm happy to have done what is shown. I do have a question, though, the plans show fishing line run through 1/16 tubing in the stablizer and rudder;p is this needed or can I leave this off?Click image for larger version

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Old 02-06-2014, 02:59 AM   #7
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Here are a couple of photo's of recent progress on the bitty bipe. the first shows the center section of the bottom wing. Went ahead and cut out for the aileron servo and also the brace for the wing hold down dowel. The second is just a top view of the same thing. After adding the top spar I did the same, mostly, I cut down the spar and glued a piece of 1/32 ply to beef up the spar butt joint.Click image for larger version

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ID:	173295 Hopefully I can get some more done soon, of course, more snow is being predicted for where I live, although not as bad as last week. And since the temp. in my workshop is pretty close to outside, of course I have a small electric heater that helps.


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Old 02-15-2014, 02:36 AM   #8
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Default bitty bipe

Finally got both wings framed up, and then I weighted everything and so far it all totals 6.9 grams if I didn't mix up my weights. Anyway this is the first symmetrical airfoil I've built, so hopefully everything will do well once its finished. Here is a photo of the wings and the fuse just posed together.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-15-2014, 02:40 AM   #9
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Looking Good You still have about 2 weeks of building time left so, you will be ok Take care and have fun, Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:42 AM   #10
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Here is another photo of the bipe with motor, a speed 450, probably a bit much but the all up weight is supposed to be about two and a half pounds. However, as it sits in the picture it only weights 10.5 oz. Apparently I didn't pay too much attention to the plans, cause the rudder is going to present a problem hooking up to the control linkage, but I'm sure I'll come up with something.Click image for larger version

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ID:	173714 Although this picture doesn't show it, I added the wing tips at the leading edge and constructed the aileron linkages this afternoon.


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Old 02-25-2014, 04:28 PM   #11
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Sheeted the leading edges yesterday, just the topside, will have to get some more balsa to finish job. Used 1/32 instead of 1/16 mainly cause I got the wrong thing this should not pose any problems will it?
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:20 PM   #12
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Making slow but steady progress on the Bitty Bipe. I am at the covering stage, though I still lack fitting the elevator and rudder servos and assorted linkages. Started with the ailerons as shown in the photos below. The white blobs is the servo linkages and servo in a small plastic bag so I can keep track of them. Next photo shows the mounting formers for the wings and the shelf for the ESC and battery pack, the holes are for air to pass through. Sorry for the quality of the pictures as usually they come out much better.Click image for larger version

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ID:	174272 I've setteled on an Orange and blue color scheme.


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Old 03-31-2014, 05:01 PM   #13
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Well, started on the covering process the other day, and the stab and elevator looks good. Still have some more nit-pic areas to take care of, and do the landing gear. Would it be better to use a solid type of gear or use wire for the landing gear. Here is the latest progress photo:Click image for larger version

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Old 04-02-2014, 12:41 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by hkeelljr View Post
Well, started on the covering process the other day, and the stab and elevator looks good. Still have some more nit-pic areas to take care of, and do the landing gear. Would it be better to use a solid type of gear or use wire for the landing gear. Here is the latest progress photo:Attachment 174401
use a solid landing gear, wire LG just likes to bend and twist a lot Your plane is looking great, Take care and have fun, Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:56 PM   #15
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Finially got the wings covered and it looks great. As it is shown in the photo w/no eletronics it weights 12.8 oz. I did notice that the control horn for the rudder will have to be repositioned so it won't bind. Anyway, its getting closer to being finished. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-24-2014, 10:06 PM   #16
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Finally started back working on the bitty bile. Set the wing incidence for both wings at 0-0. I realize this bring a few comments but from what I read online that the above should work fine. Still have a ways to go with though, can anyone recommend a preformed landing gear blank. I was going to use the one off the hots but now that it's almost ready to go I'm having to look around. I know about the halco 105 offered on eBay but they want eleven bucks for shipping for a total for over thirty bucks and just a might much.
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Old 07-25-2014, 12:27 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Or a U bent wire ...

Whatever you use - make sure the elevators are joined, set flat and weighted down while glue is drying ... the number of slightly out elevators over the years - I've lost count !

Nigel
Yeah it's like having a v-tail, except you can't control it. I have a little 30mm EDF HE162, where the stabilizer dihedral makes a joiner rod a bit iffy, but works well within the needed range of travel. It actually works, but has a bit of slop due to having an undersized diameter joiner wire, where one half pulls up a hair more than the other. If you pulled up on the elevator, you would get the sharpest left hand turn ever seen.

Originally Posted by hkeelljr View Post
Finally started back working on the bitty bile. Set the wing incidence for both wings at 0-0. I realize this bring a few comments but from what I read online that the above should work fine. Still have a ways to go with though, can anyone recommend a preformed landing gear blank. I was going to use the one off the hots but now that it's almost ready to go I'm having to look around. I know about the halco 105 offered on eBay but they want eleven bucks for shipping for a total for over thirty bucks and just a might much.
I have a stash of the plastic GWS landing gear mounts for wire gear. They work well, since you can remove the gear for grass landings, and also easily replace/straighten the gear wire.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:23 AM   #18
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Default LG for Bitty Bipe

hkeelljr ...

Try Airborne Models, www.airborne-models.com . They have a good selection of gear sizes and types.

Hope the maiden is good, and post some pix.

Sierra Flyer
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Old 10-03-2014, 01:50 PM   #19
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Well, finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on my bitty bile. I wound up using 3/32 wire for the landing gear, thanks Chellie, mainly cause money is kinda tight at home, and I had this on hand. But, it's better that I learn how to make my own, instead of always buying something. So I assembled everything and placed it on my scales and without the battery, esc, and receiver I get right at 20.1 oz. The wingspan is 32", and I'm going to use a power up 450 with a 3 cell Lipo. Will this be too much power, or since its a bipe with it's inherent drag will the 450 be plenty. I also plan on using either a Apc 8x6 or a 9x7 prop.
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