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Old 07-19-2013, 10:42 PM   #1
Bill G
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Default Guillows Stearman

Guess I better start a build thread, so this build may have a chance of progressing, given the rate it's been going at. The build is going pretty much like the Guillows kits in general, which sell pretty well but are almost all stashed and rarely built. The Stearman is near the top of the list of those kits. I got this kit as a steal on Ebay, since the box was completely shot, but everything was shown to be there in the photos, which is what really matters. Bought and stashed a few more old balsa kits from Ebay for the first time ever, figuring they might motivate me to build, since a die-cut kit is like an ARF from what I'm used to.

Figured I'd start with the engine and pilot, since they are made from vacuum molded parts that require trimming, gluing, and then sanding the seams. The pilots are excellent for reducing weight and tail weight, but are a bit testy to put together. The engine requires that all 7 cylinders be assembled, versus two halves for the entire engine, which again is probably one of the reasons this kit isn't built much. Like the Guillows DR1 and Camel builds, this build will have all gear/batt/motor mounted as far forward as possible to reduce or eliminate nose ballast.


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ID:	169917 This was a good piece to to start with and get out of the way.
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ID:	169919 The 370 size outrunner will fit in the forward area of the dummy radial, to use effectively as nose ballast.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:49 AM   #2
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Nice start, Bill. I always enjoy following your builds, even from back in the day, on the "other" forum.
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Old 07-22-2013, 04:25 AM   #3
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Thanks Brad.
Made a bit more progress, and pretty much have a complete fuse, with inset planking to be finished in the front. It's nice to have a reasonably scale scheme of sheeted and fabric covered areas, resembling the full scale plane. With that in mind, the formers were scalloped between the stringers so that the fuse formers don't show through the covering job.


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ID:	169953 The receiver is planned to mount between the battery which will sit directly behind the firewall, and the tail servos. With all the gear forward, the plane should balance with a small 3s-900 and little or no added ballast.
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:30 AM   #4
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I love to see a Bill G build. I will follow this one with intrest.

I did see the build on the Guillows site but I STILL can't figure out why i don't have permission to see the photos.

I'm either going to get good at flying em, or get good at fixin em!
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Old 07-23-2013, 01:37 AM   #5
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Watching...
It's fun to watch someone build something with those little tiny stringers.
Must be something wrong with mine, they keep breaking.....
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:43 PM   #6
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looks like another sweet plane.I was up your neck of the woods last month for the mercer grange fair. PM me lets fly some weekend I'll come up
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:07 AM   #7
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Thanks for the comments all.
Bronco for some reason I've heard others say that my camera software makes jpegs that aren't viewable. I've had issues with it also, and learned not to delete photos from my camera until saving them into another format, since every once in a while it corrupts the photos and you lose them.

Pd1 my solution to not breaking stringers is to use heavy stringers. My hands are far to heavy to build with contest stringers. That's part of the reason for pushing all the gear as far forward as possible, to account for the added tail weight. After enough Guillows builds you get a really nice collection of strong stringers since they give you a more than ample supply. Some of the stringers are off-grain cut, which get thrown out, but many of them are properly cut from strong wood. I've haven't had good success with contest, or even relatively light weight stringers that are ran across spans longer than 2 inches. Worse than breaking them while building, is breaking them after covering, such as when hand launching the plane. Another reason for heavy stringers is that even light weight coverings will pull them in when shrunk, and ruin the fuse curves. Had that happen to a FW56 that was perfectly shaped before covering. This plane will have Microlite blue covering on the fuse with a light painting of blue paint, necessary to match the lg, cowl and other parts that require painting. The painting will require some reshinking, since it relaxes the covering.

Zoltron a flying meeting would be good. I need to get my out there and fly more as of lately. The large local park is a perfect place for park flying.


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ID:	169980 Used heavier LG wire of around .080" that fits the wheels perfectly, since the lighter stock wire seems to flex enough to damage the strut farings with added rc gear weight. Nose area sheeted for scale appearance.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:51 AM   #8
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The only answer to the fragile contest balsa stringers is to be careful to only handle the model at the formers and the heavier longerons.

Lots of experience working with hand split stringers as small as 1/64" square.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:33 AM   #9
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1/64" square?I can't even see that,never mind building with it.
I have a Pilatus pc9 kit that is similar to guillows kits.I keep looking at it,then I put it back in the box.One day i will get up the courage to actually start building it.
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Old 07-26-2013, 03:37 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by DHC Beaver View Post
1/64" square?I can't even see that,never mind building with it.
I have a Pilatus pc9 kit that is similar to guillows kits.I keep looking at it,then I put it back in the box.One day i will get up the courage to actually start building it.
I've never seen it either, in all my years searching the utopian internet world where most all have the Midas touch. I've even managed to build a Guillows 500 series kit using light weight 1/32" formers, but I would definitely break 1/64" stringers, if I could of course see them in the first place.
Hope you get around to the Pilatus build. I built their Beaver, and would like to build the Pilatus also. After gluing the floats back on after an incident, hopefully I'll get around to flying it again one of these years.


Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
The only answer to the fragile contest balsa stringers is to be careful to only handle the model at the formers and the heavier longerons.

Lots of experience working with hand split stringers as small as 1/64" square.
That's the obvious textbook answer. There is a real world benefit to building reasonably robust however, while of course not trying to "build to crash". I've had several models where no matter how many times you slap yourself across the face saying, "Darn it, hold it only on the former, or this area", reality is that it's not that easy. The CG happens to sit far ahead of where we commonly hold the model for a hand launch, which makes it difficult to very gently hold and balance a model the size and weight of this subject, during a launch. Factor in the thrust, which makes it even more difficult to hold and release the model while never letting your grip move from the former and fuse keels, and it's even more difficult.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:04 PM   #11
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Years ago before I was a teenager I built indoor microfilm models.
My dexterity was better then and rolling 1/64 sheet for fuselage tubes was common. I remember 1/32 square strips but I don't recall 1/64th.
Now I couldn't even hold one without breaking it.

http://www.indoorduration.com/buildingf1d.htm

I solved that problem, I just got a Sterling PT-17 Stearman kit.
60 inch wings and the smallest stringers are 1/8x1/4.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:59 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Years ago before I was a teenager I built indoor microfilm models.
My dexterity was better then and rolling 1/64 sheet for fuselage tubes was common. I remember 1/32 square strips but I don't recall 1/64th.
Now I couldn't even hold one without breaking it.

http://www.indoorduration.com/buildingf1d.htm

I solved that problem, I just got a Sterling PT-17 Stearman kit.
60 inch wings and the smallest stringers are 1/8x1/4.
That's a really nice Stearman kit. I've wanted one from Ebay if they were cheaper, but then again they really are worth what they generally sell for.

Finished some small details on the Stearman, and need to start on the wings now, after shaping the LEs.


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ID:	170038 Short stringer sections laminated to the fuse stringers for reinforcement, so the main stringers could then be drilled to mount the scale foot pegs.
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ID:	170039 Maxx wheels selected to match the Guillows wheel diameter and fit the Guillows plastic molded center cap.
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ID:	170040 Pilot says, "Shaping all these LEs is too much like work!"
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:19 PM   #13
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Bill did you make the interior sheets, or were they part of the kit?
You will have more detail on this plane than I will have in the large one.
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:21 PM   #14
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Another great build! Though, I haven't built a Guillows kit in years, it's still fun to watch them come together.

It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:27 PM   #15
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Thanks Pat. PD1 the interior is Guillows supplied on printed cardstock. I've always used them, since they make it a "Guillows" build, although the printed details aren't exactly 3D scale. Slowly getting somewhere on the build with the bottom wing completed, which by far requires the most build effort of the two wings.


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ID:	170145 The airfoiled stab surfaces weigh, which is part of the reason for mounting gear as far forward as possible. CG still looks good, factoring in weight to be added later.
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ID:	170146 Wing TE and LE preglued with dihedral set. Addional dihedral across the TE encourages a bit or washout in the completed wing.
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ID:	170147 This is the first Guillows kit I've built that had pre-fabbed aileron parts. The parts fit well, saving the effort of having to fabricate the ailerons. I'll probably use individual aileron servos for this build.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:46 PM   #16
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Hey Bill

What engine and servos did you use on this model?
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:08 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MarceloMichelazzo View Post
Hey Bill

What engine and servos did you use on this model?
I believe this is the motor and kv:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/86ma01-2205-1400kv.html
For this plane, the 33gm weight is useful in balancing the plane, although a slightly smaller motor could probably have adequate power. The plane will be using a 7" prop, which is the reason for the kv rating. If it were any larger, I probably would have gone with the lower 1200kv version.

The servos are HS55, I believe around 9 grams. When possible I use even lighter servos in planes this size, but in this case the tail servos are actually used to contribute to needed forward weight, putting their weight to practical use. For the ailerons, the HS55 servos are just small enough to fit into the wing. I had thought about using something more along the 5gm range, such as my favorite GWS Pico. The aileron servos can add undesirable aft weight to the plane, even though they are close to the CG, which is one of the reasons I try to mount them as far forward in the wing as possible. One of my major goals is to use the gear and battery to balance the plane, without needing any added ballast in the nose.

I'll have to put some more photos up soon, as the top wing is now finished with aileron servos mounted, and it's time for me to start finishing this build up already.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:22 AM   #18
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Getting close to completing this build now. Maybe I'll have to start another one, so I can put off that lovely covering task for a while.
I ended up adding the cardstock sheet behind the rear cocpit to create the correct scale sized sheeted area, versus my slightly smaller balsa inset sheeted area, as the CG still looks good.


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Old 08-14-2013, 04:42 PM   #19
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Very...very nice Bill....!

Out of curiosity....what will be the final ready to fly weight of this awesome Stearman...?

AMA 928214
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:22 PM   #20
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Those Guillows kits sure are cute at this stage. The last Guillows kit I did was a Bearcat I think, and I never did cover it; just assembled it and hung from the ceiling.

It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:04 PM   #21
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Looks so great!
Can't wait to see it finished
Amazing job. I hope I can manage to do something like that on my model soon.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:39 AM   #22
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Thanks for the comments all.
The weight with everything framed, batt and all gear on the scale is now approximately 14.5oz. My main concern with radial engined biplanes is avoiding added ballast, as the remainder of the building techniques pretty much set the weight where it will end up. The plane will use Coverite Microlite blue and yellow, but with an added coat of paint to match all the non covered parts, as well as making the covering opaque. I started this build knowing it wouldn't be a feather light, given the interior/pilot, airfoiled tail surfaces, and cardstock, but the final AUW should still be fine given the wing loading.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:26 AM   #23
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Slowly covering parts. Getting tired of using all my micro screws for securing rigging fittings, this plane will use rigging eyelets formed from .025" music wire. The wire is bent so that it has a 90 degree bend that can be glued flat against the inside of a thin ply or hard balsa mounting plate, after slipping it through a hole. After catching onto the task of forming the small end loops with needle nose and other pliers, they move along pretty quickly. I've been cutting the wire in short lengths, forming the eyelets on both ends, next creating the other bends which create 2 individual eyelets (see photo below) and then cutting the 2 parts apart.


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ID:	170493 Rigging eyelets made from .025" music wire, and also cut lengths of the metal strapping that comes with JST pins and other small connector pins. The strapping fittings simply glue into slots cut into hard balsa.
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ID:	170494 Rigging eyelets glued in on back side of 1/32" ply plate. Short lenght of 1/16" stringer glued over wire for more solid attachment.
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Old 09-22-2013, 03:49 PM   #24
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One of these days this project will be finished. Not much to go, other than assembly, rigging, and some details. The yellow Coverite Microlite covered parts have been painted with a light coat of TopFlite yellow spray, to reduce transparency and gloss a bit. The fuse and other blue parts will get a coat of Model Masters Blue Angel Blue, to match all the parts as well as reducing the gloss appearance a bit.


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ID:	171078 Template shown for single sheet fuse covering, which eliminates an ugly seam along the rear fuse top, which is covererd first. This works well for planes with large cocpit openings, as covering slop can be taken up there, after cutting a seam.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:25 PM   #25
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Those last bits can seem daunting. I'll usually a little sick of looking at a model when I get close to the end but persevere! It's going to look great.

It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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