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Old 12-09-2013, 09:32 AM   #1
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Default Accipiter Badius Pattern plane

OK -- so I've bought a plain white kit version of the Accipiter Badius (Formosa clone) ....

It's basically an EPS machine as I gather and therefore I will be looking at covering the vulnerable packing case foam with Heat Shrink Film.

This will do various things in one go :

a) Clean up all edges and any dings, dents that EPS is liable to.
b) Provide a nice smooth glossy finish to aid her being slippery in the air.
c) Provide an excellent base for any decals / decoration I decide to add.
d) Provide some protection against the dings and dents flying will do ..

I'm still trying to decide what overall colour scheme ... but most likely is a sunburst scheme on top, plain underside, to provide maximum orientation view.

The model is intended for sunday aerobatics with a view to some of the F3A routines ... so needs a good contrast top to bottom.

There are other considerations in mind ...

a) do I stay with ailerons only or convert to inboard flaps / outboard ailerons by modifying from single central torque rod servo ...
b) change control runs to have Link Stoppers instead of V bends
c) Retracts instead of fixed U/C
d) Canopy change to transparent plastic with a pilot !

I would like this to be a little more personal than the standard scheme ... to be honest this is one area that annoys me with todays models ... they all have same cosmetics ! Not many people seem to have desire to personalise anymore ... especially when the lacquer paint used .. even decals ... rub of so easily !!

This thread will be added to as I progress with the cosmetics ... as well as doing a step by step of how to cover foam with Heat Shrink film ...

Nigel

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Old 12-09-2013, 04:18 PM   #2
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Here's the motor I intend to shove up front ... (I was sure it was about 200W ... but here it says 275W ... )

http://www.rctimer.com/index.php?gOo...20&productname=

On an 8x6 - I know these go exceptionally well.

Nigel

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Old 12-09-2013, 04:44 PM   #3
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A lot of guys here using RC Timer motors in their profile pushers. They really like them. Out runs the Grayson V2

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Old 12-09-2013, 05:18 PM   #4
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I have various RCTimer and Turnigy motors and to be honest - they look same apart from labels and colour. They have same slanted fins at front to capture airflow etc. - I've even swapped a stator between a couple .. works.

But I do like RCTimer ... shafts, C-Clips, Motors, Mounts etc. - never had a bad deal with them. Always email when things move etc.

I reckon 275W up front of a model designed for 370 brushed and NiMH should give her some pep !! Might go for a 9x5 or less pitch - give her some real vertical !!

Nigel

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Old 12-09-2013, 08:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
I have various RCTimer and Turnigy motors and to be honest - they look same apart from labels and colour. They have same slanted fins at front to capture airflow etc. - I've even swapped a stator between a couple .. works.

But I do like RCTimer ... shafts, C-Clips, Motors, Mounts etc. - never had a bad deal with them. Always email when things move etc.

I reckon 275W up front of a model designed for 370 brushed and NiMH should give her some pep !! Might go for a 9x5 or less pitch - give her some real vertical !!

Nigel
I Have had great Luck with RCTimer motors and esc, they are inexpensive but last, i still have some original RCTimer motors and esc, you cant beat the price too some paint pattern below







I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 12-09-2013, 08:41 PM   #6
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If it were me I'd probably put a lot of effort into keeping it as light as humanly possible, so light power-system, no retracts or flaps, minimum of trim.

I'm thinking that a model this small is likely to be quite tricky/twitchy for precision F3A flying so the slower flying you can make it the better your chances.
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
If it were me I'd probably put a lot of effort into keeping it as light as humanly possible, so light power-system, no retracts or flaps, minimum of trim.

I'm thinking that a model this small is likely to be quite tricky/twitchy for precision F3A flying so the slower flying you can make it the better your chances.
Agreed .... but most reviews show that she is light on the nose and many added weight.

The motor I'm going to use is rated at 80gr ... which has about the extra over the 2204 motor PnF has to balance. So hopefully I will need no nose weight added.

The Flaps can be done with 4gr servos ... and flaps can be 6.5gr ... so the weight there is minimal compared to torque rods and 9gr.

I'm not silly enough to expect precision with such a model anyway ... as I say - more for Sunday sport with F3A style in mind.

It's all just pie in sky at moment anyway ... thoughts thrown out to see reaction ... so I appreciate this and any other posts.

In Latvia - its still early days for populace to see and experience RC ... so I want a model that I can give a reasonable account in front of a crowd who don't care for precision - but want to see a 'show' ... similar to my days when I had a grossly overpowered WOT4 ... the crowd have a 5 minute attention span and always looking for the crash ............ So something to let them 'think' it will crash ... but will perform what THEY consider aerobatics.

I have to admit that I prefer a bit of weight though ... I'm not really one for lightweight models that get bucked around. I suppose all those years with WOT4 's and Magics, Skymasters, Pitts etc. - heavy models with plenty of power on tap to pull through the schedules ...

Nigel

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Old 01-13-2014, 03:16 PM   #8
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Box arrived ....

Contents opened out :





First thing noted is that aileron torque rods are a touch short ... I may replace ... but will try and stay with stock gear - so anyone else who follows this with a kit - will have direct gear reference.

Second is that wing is not deep enough for my retracts.

I need a new stock of 5 min Epoxy to start !

Nigel

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Old 01-13-2014, 07:12 PM   #9
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Decided to go with the PU glue ...

First bits into slots of fuselage half ... motor beam, wing bolt holder etc. Then mate other side up and tape up after glueing.



Put aside to dry.

Wing ... cut through aileron mould lines at ends and flex them to free up. Checking plastic parts - reason for short aileron rods becomes apparent. Ailerons have plastic end caps with slots for torque rod ends ..



So all fitted, glued up and spacers inserted / tape applied to cover and smooth..



Carbon rod was fitted to wing underside along with U/C blocks ... taped up to keep smooth as well.

I swapped out the control horns to my preferred clip together variety ... instead of screws for elevator and rudder.
The stock machine shows V's in elevator / rudder control rods for adjustment - I shall use link-stoppers instead.

That's all for today ...

Nigel

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Old 01-14-2014, 08:55 PM   #10
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Difficult day today .... new builder started on house - so that's running round getting gear and materials ... getting him started.

But decided that with limited time to myself - I covered the Badius model in film .. even though it's foam.







Not completely finished - still some decorations to do ... but not too bad.

Found I had to clip and solder screw ends to torque rods on ailerons - the threads were odd and didn't fit the control links properly.

Nigel

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Old 01-15-2014, 07:19 PM   #11
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Here she is ready to go ... all servos, Rx etc in :







Modifications needed :

a) Aileron torque rods threads are not same diameter ! So cut of and soldered on cable threaded ends.
b) Wing seat depth in fuselage not enough for standard 9g servo and arm ... had to hollow out.
c) Servo position not enough clearance for arms in width and height - hollowed out to clear.
d) Battery hole far too small and needs to feed more forward - cut away top of fuselage - hollowed out and now I can get 1750 3S in there.
e) Tail-heavy even with larger battery pushed forward - added 40gr to firewall. May add more.
f) Fitted 3 magnets to canopy as this is front magnet instead of preferred rear. Any air under it will lift it easy.

I've been comparing my model to the Hobby King one .. mine is all foam with no wood inserts as shown in HK fuselage.
No control rod tubes at all ... unsupported wire rods - seem to be ok - will fly and see ..

Tail wheel absent ... added my own.

CoG is still a touch back from ideal - I reckon it's now at point for aerobatics ... but not maiden. Will think about more lead !!

Looks purposeful though !

Nigel

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Old 01-16-2014, 11:39 AM   #12
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Just an FYI. Chellie makes a nice set of sturdy aluminum LG for this plane. Worked out perfectly for the Mosa II

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Old 01-16-2014, 05:25 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by dahawk View Post
Just an FYI. Chellie makes a nice set of sturdy aluminum LG for this plane. Worked out perfectly for the Mosa II
I know she does and if I lived over your way - I'm certain I would be using on more than one model.

This one WILL get retracts - just need to get smaller set...

Nigel

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Old 01-16-2014, 05:30 PM   #14
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That's a really nice sport job Nigel....even with skinny legs.....looking forward to your maiden tests.......!

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Old 01-16-2014, 05:56 PM   #15
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Unfortunately photos hide the film problem ... I'm having large temp changes where the model stores and the film is slacking in places.

The other complaint I have with todays film - why does it creep when shrinking and leave a clear white line !! Solarfilm doesn't do that.

Nigel

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Old 01-16-2014, 06:49 PM   #16
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So are the RCTimer motors the same as the Turnigy ones. Their shipping costs seem very good, better than from Hobbyking. Nice plane btw, although a clear canopy would look great. There are a few wrinkles near the canopy in the picture, but I hope I can cover my new plane half as good as this.
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Old 01-16-2014, 08:39 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
So are the RCTimer motors the same as the Turnigy ones. Their shipping costs seem very good, better than from Hobbyking..................
I use both and not noted any difference ... such that I sometimes wonder if they might be from same factory.

Nigel

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Old 01-23-2014, 09:25 PM   #18
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23 Jan 2014 ..... maiden flight ....

http://youtu.be/r9IHFcGwduI

General impression :

My CoG is a bit back from ideal but is flyable ...

This model is extremely neutral - it stays where you put it.

If anyone wants a machine to practice manoeuvres - this does it.

Power level ? I have a RC Timer 2830/8 1300kv ... which is measured on the 8x6 prop at 220W ... Level of power is enough for reasonable antics, but would be minimum I suggest.

Nigel

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Old 02-05-2014, 06:33 PM   #19
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Took her to airport today for a real session ... stall turns, Cubans, Split-s's ... went into knife edge and BHAM ! wrong way with rudder !!

She's now on repair bench ... luckily clean breaks.

Video to be uploaded when sorted.

Nigel

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Old 02-05-2014, 06:47 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
... went into knife edge and BHAM ! wrong way with rudder !!
Simple rule that helped me move the rudder the correct way in knife edge (until it became automatic) was:

If the canopy faces you move the rudder stick toward the tail. If the belly faces you move the rudder stick toward the nose.

Works every time and easy to remember. A slow flying plane helps too, it gives more time to think.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:36 PM   #21
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I know the Idioms.... I practice on sims......

It happens!

Model is already near finished repairs....

Nigel

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Old 02-06-2014, 12:09 AM   #22
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Sims are ok for certain things, but don't replicate the pucker factor that causes brain freeze.

I find point rolls to be good practice for proper use of rudder in KE because it forces you into KE flight in both 'canopy in' and 'canopy out' orientation.
Also setting up KE mixes in the Tx so that you don't need to trim out coupling effects makes it a lot easier to progress.

Some think KE mixed are 'cheating', I disagree. All the world's top aerobatic flyers use KE mixes, so if they think it's required at their 'god like' skill level, who am I to argue
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:52 AM   #23
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I've done KE for years - but sometimes brain fade and age gets me !! This time I was enjoying myself ... relaxed a bit ... Airport Director watching and BHAM ! He helped me pick up the bits !

Model is 90% repaired already ... just need to cut and scarf in a new piece to front fuselage where battery pack ripped out.
I will remove the iron-on flim covering and put her back to plain foam ... not that it doesn't work - it's just if any further repairs - would prefer to be able to work without creating 'film panels' to hide work. Cosmetics will be stick-on vinyl.

Biggest pain I find is piecing together cowls and getting back to shape ... one day I will do the heat-plastic trick and make own cowls like baz.

Competition ..... mmmmmm I remember days when 'programmed mixes' were banned and radios checked to ensure 'pure flight' was used. But times change and to be honest - its all about enjoying it ... I don't do competition anymore - the lay-off from RC for a few years took away my top-end ability so now I'm just a flyer !!

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Old 02-06-2014, 07:24 PM   #24
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Decided to leave the film and patch up after repairs ...



She looks OK - just need to sort a new cowl from somewhere ...

Nigel

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
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Old 02-06-2014, 07:46 PM   #25
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Looks great ! Where's the vid ? LOL

Wounded Warrior Fun Fly - Aug 16th ,2014 - Grapevine TX - Info link: https://support.woundedwarriorprojec...ising/RCPilots
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