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Old 11-16-2015, 06:32 PM   #1
dereckbc
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Default Precision Aerobatics / VOX Propeller Hole Size.

Having a terrible time with VOX propellers supplied by Precision Aerobatics. The prop adapter is for a 5 mm motor shaft. I have a few different VOX props for the plane, all of them 14 inches.

Problem is none of the props will slide onto the prop adapter and must be enlarged. The damn things will slide over the threaded part of the prop adapter but not the shaft below the threaded portion without using excessive force. Just to dang tight.

I destroyed my first prop adapter using the nut to force the prop down. The damn adapter is made out of aluminum and ended up stripping the threads.

Since the prop and prop adapter are made in Germany I assume a metric sized hole but what size. Anyone know?

I assume 7 mm
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:36 PM   #2
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Get yourself a tapered reamer and you can then enlarge prop shaft holes to fit ... NEVER force a prop on as you are never sure that prop is properly held against the thrust washer face.

Here's my reamer ... hardened tool-steel :



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tapered-Ha...oAAOSwd0BVqDCh

The beauty of the tapered reamer is that it is not a fixed diameter as the stepped are. Not all adaptors are exactly the size they say ... the tapered reamer caters for all.
The reamers on Hobby King and similar are too soft in the metal and soon lose their 'edge' ... but the Carpenter / Engineer as above are Hard Carbon steel that really are tough and just about sort anything we have ACCURATELY.

APC props actually advise tapered reamers .. and give instructions how to do the job.

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Old 11-16-2015, 09:36 PM   #3
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I use a step drill.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html
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Old 11-16-2015, 09:41 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
Step drills are ok in right hands and equipment ... but where people try to use standard twist drills even in Pillar Drill stands ... they can end up with off-centred holes that are impossible to correct. YES Pillar stands can still go off-centre when the drill itself 'bends' ... they DO bend and it only needs a tiny deflection to ruin a prop.

APC as example are explicit in their description of enlarging prop shaft holes. That's good enough for me !!



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Old 11-16-2015, 10:18 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Get yourself a tapered reamer and you can then enlarge prop shaft holes to fit ... NEVER force a prop on as you are never sure that prop is properly held against the thrust washer face.

Here's my reamer ... hardened tool-steel :
Thank you.

I have seen something similar. But I see a potential problem. The VOX wooden props are roughly 1-inch thick. Not sure a tapered hole is the answer as it would be too large on the back or front depending on which direction you ream it.

Looked at Tower Hobbies and they have a few Stepped Reamers which brings me back to my original question of what size. Since the Prop Adapter is made for a 5 mm motor shaft I am assuming the metric 7-8-9 mm reamer is the ticket?

Either that or a metric drill bit. I do not need much as I can force it on using soap. I might just try rolling up some sand paper.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:33 PM   #6
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8 mm leaves 1.5mm wall thickness on your adapter. Get the metric step reamer. Works very well.

Terry

Flying is like ... ah well ... I can not think of anything it is like...
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Old 11-17-2015, 12:14 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Flubber View Post
8 mm leaves 1.5mm wall thickness on your adapter. Get the metric step reamer. Works very well.
Yep will drive into DFW tomorrow and pick one up.

I did pull out my micrometer and measured the shaft diameter and hole diameter. The shaft is dead on at 7 mm, but like everything PA does all the holes are just a bit under sized forcing you to ream every hole out so there is NO SLOP Fit. Personally I think just a 7 mm drill bit would work just as well. Hell would not even need the drill motor and could be done by hand it so close.

The real PIA with the Addiction and I assume all of PA planes is getting the SPAR Tube through the fuselage. I had to get a 3/4" piece of plywood, drill a hole the size of the Spar Tube, lay the plane on its side, and drove the Spar Tube in with a Rubber Mallet.

Putting the wings on was no piece of cake either. No need for the Wing Nuts to keep the wings attached. No way possible to ever get them off without destroying the wings.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:37 AM   #8
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OK ... lets disperse this myth about the enlarged tapered hole ...

The prop only requires centering on the shaft and the nut forces the prop against the thrust washer ... THAT is the driving force NOT the shaft ...

Stepped reamers are fine BUT they do a fixed diameter and do not cater for those slight out of dimension shafts. To cure that means reaming out to next size up and inserting a prop adaptor ring.

WHY do that when a tapered reamer does the job without need for corrective ring ... can produce a hole perfect for whatever shaft ...

Finally ... DO NOT USE A STANDARD TWIST DRILL !! Even in a Pillar Drill stand ... I have props in the bin from trying this ... completely unuseable with ruined shaft holes. They cannot be re-centred because drill bit / reamer just follows the new hole and makes it worse.

I'm not trying to force anyone to do as I say ... just pointing out why I believe the tapered reamer to be a far better answer for props. If APC recommends ... that is good enough for me ... they make props and ought to know ? Well worth reading through this : http://www.apcprop.com/Articles.asp?ID=259



Nigel

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Old 11-19-2015, 02:03 PM   #9
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A small round file with some finese.
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Old 11-19-2015, 03:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by stemo99 View Post
A small round file with some finese.
Sorry but why ??

A tapered reamer in hardened steel will last a lifetime and does the job in seconds with perfect results. Cost ? 3 or 4$ ...

I'm sure Harbour Freight or similar has something.

Nigel

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Old 11-19-2015, 03:33 PM   #11
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Guys time to wrap this up. I stuck with my gut feelings on this. What I did is real simple. I took a strip of sandpaper, rolled it like a cigar to make an axle, threaded it through the hole, and twirled the prop around a few times with my finger for a perfect fit.
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:19 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by dereckbc View Post
Guys time to wrap this up. I stuck with my gut feelings on this. What I did is real simple. I took a strip of sandpaper, rolled it like a cigar to make an axle, threaded it through the hole, and twirled the prop around a few times with my finger for a perfect fit.
Theres more than one way to skin a cat ....

But may I suggest you invest a few $ in a tapered reamer ... that way if you need to open out a prop more than a slight touch - you have a serious accurate easy way to do it.

$3 - $4 is a good investment ... cheaper than ruining a prop by a non-centering method.

Nigel

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Old 11-20-2015, 12:58 AM   #13
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Solentlife, you must own many shares of tapered reamer stock. I use a small round file and with my manual dexterity am able to remove the material evenly for a perfect fit every time. Your tapered reamer first removes material at the top of the hole and as you insert it deeper to remove material in the center of the prop hole, your again enlarging the top of the hole (probably too large) as you get the center the correct size. Flip the prop and repeat, you now have a prop hole too large on both outside ends and maybe the correct size in the very center. A step reamer the correct size, I agree with. Your tapered reamer, sorry, wrong tool.
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Old 11-20-2015, 01:12 AM   #14
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The tapered or dual tapered hole won't be a problem as long as the hole centers the prop.

The advantages of a step drill or stepped reamer are:
You know where to stop.
They self-center using the previous steps as a guide.
They are extremely resistant to the bending you might get from pushing too hard on a standard twist drill bit.

Disadvantages are:
It needs the original hole to match a step.
The final hole size needs to match a step.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:41 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by stemo99 View Post
Solentlife, you must own many shares of tapered reamer stock. I use a small round file and with my manual dexterity am able to remove the material evenly for a perfect fit every time. Your tapered reamer first removes material at the top of the hole and as you insert it deeper to remove material in the center of the prop hole, your again enlarging the top of the hole (probably too large) as you get the center the correct size. Flip the prop and repeat, you now have a prop hole too large on both outside ends and maybe the correct size in the very center. A step reamer the correct size, I agree with. Your tapered reamer, sorry, wrong tool.
Wrong.

APC as a reputable prop manufacturer who state tapered reamer and give specific instructions on how to use it. Please scroll back up the thread and you will see links to it and another has actually taken pictures from their site.

You do not ream from both sides ... you ream from one side only. Check out APC ....

The tapered hole is not a problem in any form. It is purely to Centre a prop. The force and drive is transmitted to the prop by the rear face against the thrust face of the motor / adaptor.
Don't forget that prop ring inserts only provide a small surface area contact to shaft ...

Not only can you buy a tapered reamer at a DIY shop but also most RC Hobby shops as well.

My reason for using rather than a stepped, is that adaptors are not always exact diameter and the tapered allows me to match without over sizing which a stepped would have to do and then have a prop ring inserted.

So ... sorry .... "wrong tool" ..... you are completely mistaken and APC themselves prove that.

To give an example how good it is ... I use it not only on electric props but also on props on my gasoline / glow jobs without any problem.

Nigel

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