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Old 05-11-2014, 02:37 PM   #1
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Default Mounting brushless motor to motor mount

What type of fastener do I use? I have a Firepower 400 from HURC. It has the metal cross gizmo that connects the motor to the wood motor box on my EVA sport. I'm not sure if I use wood screws or something like 4/40 nuts and bolts to attach it to the motor mount. The motor came with screws to attach the metal cross to the back of the motor and to connect the prop adapter to the front of the motor. Nothing to connect the motor to the motor mount.

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:04 PM   #2
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Home depot is your friend.....................
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:13 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by RobinA View Post
Home depot is your friend.....................
HD or Lowes but that doesn't answer my question. What would be the best thing to use? Nuts and bolts or are wood screws an option?

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:18 PM   #4
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Usually 4x40 bind nuts in the motor mount with 4x40 screws. The EVA mount is really tight for this. I had to cut one side of the bind nuts to get them to fit. If you have not built the motor mount yet you maybe able to mount the bind nuts first then assemble the mount.

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Old 05-11-2014, 03:24 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Usually 4x40 bind nuts in the motor mount with 4x40 screws. The EVA mount is really tight for this. I had to cut one side of the bind nuts to get them to fit. If you have not built the motor mount yet you maybe able to mount the bind nuts first then assemble the mount.

Steve
Thanks Steve. I didn't want to bug you again with questions, and then BOOM!! you come to the rescue!! I saw in one of your pics somewhere you had drilled the holes in your motor mount and how close they were to the edges of the mount. I figured from that pic that I was going to possibly have some trouble if I used nuts and bolts. I have already built the mount and have it screwed to the front bulkhead.

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:45 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by time bandit View Post
What type of fastener do I use? I have a Firepower 400 from HURC. It has the metal cross gizmo that connects the motor to the wood motor box on my EVA sport. I'm not sure if I use wood screws or something like 4/40 nuts and bolts to attach it to the motor mount. The motor came with screws to attach the metal cross to the back of the motor and to connect the prop adapter to the front of the motor. Nothing to connect the motor to the motor mount.
Some great info here on mounting a brushless motor.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39483

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:01 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Some great info here on mounting a brushless motor.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39483
What's up Chellie? Thanks for the info.

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:04 PM   #8
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I use self-tappers for all my X mount motors. But I haven't anything with more than 500W mounted that way.

Never had any pull out. Easy to fit .. easy to remove. If the firewall loses bite in the threads .. rotate the mount slightly to have new clean face to drill and screw into.

You probably know this already - but one of the biggest mistakes when putting screws into ply or wood ... is not pre-drilling pilot hole. A proper pilot hole drilled makes sure that the thread cut by the screw is not overstressed by compressing too much material and also allows you to turn the screw without risking breakages / chewed heads etc.

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Old 05-11-2014, 09:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by time bandit View Post
What's up Chellie? Thanks for the info.
Hi Just kicking back and getting ready to make a BBQ for a Mothers day Meal Glad to help with Info if I can Take care and have fun, Chellie

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Old 05-11-2014, 09:37 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
I use self-tappers for all my X mount motors. But I haven't anything with more than 500W mounted that way.

Never had any pull out. Easy to fit .. easy to remove. If the firewall loses bite in the threads .. rotate the mount slightly to have new clean face to drill and screw into.

You probably know this already - but one of the biggest mistakes when putting screws into ply or wood ... is not pre-drilling pilot hole. A proper pilot hole drilled makes sure that the thread cut by the screw is not overstressed by compressing too much material and also allows you to turn the screw without risking breakages / chewed heads etc.

Nigel
You mean self-tapping wood screws?

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:49 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by time bandit View Post
You mean self-tapping wood screws?
No not common wood screws ... not the type that have plain shank and then threaded ...

I use plain silver steel self tappers ... available at local DIY store ...

like these ...

[img]
[/img]

OK - these are Hobby King .. but gives good idea.

Think about it ... You have short countersunk machine screws into the motor to fix the X mount ... and then you are going to make such fixing to firewall that will pull a house down ? Self tappers as above are more than enough when done well for small to medium motors ... ie for me up to say 11" prop jobs ... ie 500W ...

Nigel

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Old 05-12-2014, 01:49 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
No not common wood screws ... not the type that have plain shank and then threaded ...

I use plain silver steel self tappers ... available at local DIY store ...

....
Nigel
Ahh, I think those would be perfect in this application. The motor he's using is the same as one of mine, it shouldn't pull more than 180 watts or so.

Steve

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Old 05-12-2014, 06:59 PM   #13
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HK 540 Edge racer :



My MIni4




Cartoon FW190 .. that motor was replaced with 2x the power later .. same fixing.



Just a few examples from the 'hangar' ......

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Old 05-12-2014, 07:45 PM   #14
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I use socket drive washer head self tappers AKA sheet metal screws. A ball driver makes it easy to drive them home when working around a motor.
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Old 05-12-2014, 11:48 PM   #15
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Yes sometimes the X can be a bit short on the legs and makes the driver sit at an angle.

I have been known to swap X's between motors to get around that !

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Old 05-13-2014, 01:04 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
No not common wood screws ... not the type that have plain shank and then threaded ...

I use plain silver steel self tappers ... available at local DIY store ...

like these ...

[img]
[/img]

OK - these are Hobby King .. but gives good idea.

Think about it ... You have short countersunk machine screws into the motor to fix the X mount ... and then you are going to make such fixing to firewall that will pull a house down ? Self tappers as above are more than enough when done well for small to medium motors ... ie for me up to say 11" prop jobs ... ie 500W ...

Nigel
What size are those screws? I was in Lowe's today and saw some of those type screws. I didn't know what size you used. That is #4,5,6 etc.

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-13-2014, 05:15 AM   #17
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Bring your x-mount or whatever in with you. between all the allthread, giant carriage bolts and tiny wood and metal screws i buy at my local hardware store between household projects, car stuff, and model airplanes, the guys there know me well and have learned not to ask too many questions due to over complicated and long winded answers.

i even brought a pressure plate and flywheel in with me one day to make sure i got the right bolts.

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
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Old 05-13-2014, 06:47 AM   #18
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What Nigel suggests will work perfectly. That was what I used on my Tuff Trainer, which had a balsa motor mount. It would rip out and snap easily, but the motor remained secured to what wood was left around the screws. I found myself making countless new mounts, but one thing for certain, those screws never backed out. I also used those screws on the retracts on my P47, and one retract ripped out on the crash, and it wasn't the screws that ripped out.
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Old 05-13-2014, 07:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by time bandit View Post
What size are those screws? I was in Lowe's today and saw some of those type screws. I didn't know what size you used. That is #4,5,6 etc.
Have you any little packets with your servos ? In those packets are often mounting screws .. those are about the smallest .. and then just have a few sizes various up from that. The length needs to be not too long so as not to go through into batterys etc.

Most I use are about 10 - 12mm long .. and suitable size to pass through the X mount holes ... so take the X mount into the shop and try them.

There is no need to drill out the X mount holes at all. Just get screws to fit..

I have boxes that hold different sizes and lengths screws ... from 2mm x 4mm up to 4mm x 20mm ... all in this self-tapper style.

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Old 05-13-2014, 08:03 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
..............the guys there know me well and have learned not to ask too many questions due to over complicated and long winded answers..................
Aint that the truth !!

Trying to explain to Car accessory shop guys why you want xx item ... blows some away !!

At least you are conversing in same language ( well having been down south - that's debatable sometimes !!) ... how do you get on where I am .. when most do not speak English ... many don't speak Russian now ... !!

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Old 05-13-2014, 11:47 AM   #21
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this is where I get small screws and nylon bolts . . .

http://www.jrhobbyhardware.com/shop/
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:47 PM   #22
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When I make orders to Hobby King .. I usually have a few grams spare in the shipping weight ....... so I find useful items like screws, bolts, even cheap budget servos etc. to fill that spare.

You soon build up a collection ... plus all those unused bits and pieces that come with servos / motors ... they go into boxes for later use.

I use the divider boxes found in hardware stores .. flip lid plastic cheapies .. I can see content through lid.

Nigel

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Old 05-13-2014, 06:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
Aint that the truth !!

Trying to explain to Car accessory shop guys why you want xx item ... blows some away !!

At least you are conversing in same language ( well having been down south - that's debatable sometimes !!) ... how do you get on where I am .. when most do not speak English ... many don't speak Russian now ... !!

Nigel
Oh I get that often. I work at a truck stop, and many of the truckers are from the Middle East, many cannot speak English...not quite sure how they are let into Canada as there is a minimum level they must speak to get in, but I guess they will learn over time. It takes me time to get used to accents, and that is fine, but when they can't get through a sentence, or understand simple questions like odometer of the truck, it isn't easy one bit. The company itself is run from the US, and occasionally you have to phone to get an issue with the tills fixed, and then I am faced with a southern accent, at least the accents usually aren't too extreme.
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:01 PM   #24
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Okay now that I have several good ideas on what fastener to use, here's my next question. What's a good way to make sure that I have my cross or "X" bracket for the motor centered up correctly on the motor mount? I want to be sure that the shaft for the prop exits the cowling correctly. The EVA Sport is the first airplane I've ever built that had a cowling to deal with. My first inclination would be to simply measure and make sure the bolt circle of the cross is equal distance from the top and sides of the motor mount or the center hole of the motor mount. Yes or no?

What was I thinking?
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Old 05-13-2014, 11:53 PM   #25
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Stick adapter on end of motor, with x mount,and hold it through the cowl hole, and put cowl on plane, so the motor will hit the back. Push back on motor a bit and it will ident wood a tad. Now take the x mount and line it up with impression and you can mark the middle so you can mount the x mount 360 degrees, in case a few holes strip.
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