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Old 06-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #1
drummaker
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Default Dang Props

I have been doing this a couple of years now and have been very active in building, crashing, rebuilding etc.

There is something which disturbs me that maybe you people can help me out with.

I have purchased both Standard, and Metric reamers, and it seems I still Never have the right size for prop adapters. This drives me crazy!

I cannot believe that a man willing to buy tools is STILL stuck reaming electric props with a set of needle nose plyers.

What do I have to get to make this stuff work?

I though it was the props and shafts I am buying but then I still have the issue with props and adapters on high end foamies.


What gives?
is there a tool or reamer that I don't know about?
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:03 PM   #2
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Naw, a lot of non-standard, poorly made props and adapters.
I guess I implied there was a standard......not sure that's even true.

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Old 06-03-2014, 05:22 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by flydiver View Post
Naw, a lot of non-standard, poorly made props and adapters.
I guess I implied there was a standard......not sure that's even true.
AND why can I not find a reamer for 3 and 4 mm holes as well
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:59 PM   #4
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I have the Hobby King tapered reamer ......... it's ok for starting holes for screws - but that's about it's lot - its too soft.

So I bought a tapered reamer of ebay and you have to see the difference - this thing cuts into props like butter ... and the metal is carbon hardened ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tapered-Ha...item1c3a106264


I've cut big glow props and small e-power jobs with this and that reamer is as sharp as day I bought it ...

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Old 06-04-2014, 03:49 AM   #5
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I bought something similar from Sears several years back. It works great.

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Old 06-04-2014, 04:43 AM   #6
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Have one that looks the same from harbor freight for $6.99?

It works well. on 5mm and larger shafts sometimes i have to ream front and back though.

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Old 06-04-2014, 03:37 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
I have the Hobby King tapered reamer ......... it's ok for starting holes for screws - but that's about it's lot - its too soft.

So I bought a tapered reamer of ebay and you have to see the difference - this thing cuts into props like butter ... and the metal is carbon hardened ...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tapered-Ha...item1c3a106264


I've cut big glow props and small e-power jobs with this and that reamer is as sharp as day I bought it ...

Nigel
Brilliant Nigel

For some reason I was thinking about boaring a hole just the right size same diameter all the way through. As long as it is the right diameter somewhere, it aught to keep the prop centered.

Can you tell me your methodology as you ream?
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:45 PM   #8
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The tapered reamer self centres and you don't have to worry ... just keep it straight and I usually attack a prop from the rear.... APC advise that.

I do not like stepped reamers as all the ones I've seen wear out and then you are stuck with inaccurate reamer size. The tapered though - it doesn't matter as you can always insert a prop adaptor ring if necessary where you may have gone too large.

A prop does not need to have entire shaft hole bearing on shaft ... as long as the narrow part of the taper sits on shaft snug - that's all that's needed. The prop nut will cause the prop to sit square to the thrust washer ..... Once tightened up - prop is fine.

When a prop needs quite a lot of reaming - such as large glow jobs .. I ream both sides - front and rear - that way I do not end up with over large entry hole one side.

NEVER bore or drill a prop shaft hole ... even with a Pillar Drill - the drill bit can go off-centre. You only need a tiny deflection or angle to the hole and BHAM - useless vibrating, off-balance prop.


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Old 06-07-2014, 05:43 AM   #9
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I am thrilled that I posted this question. I have just recieved my tapered reamer, and am really excited about doing a little reaming



Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
The tapered reamer self centres and you don't have to worry ... just keep it straight and I usually attack a prop from the rear.... APC advise that.

I do not like stepped reamers as all the ones I've seen wear out and then you are stuck with inaccurate reamer size. The tapered though - it doesn't matter as you can always insert a prop adaptor ring if necessary where you may have gone too large.

A prop does not need to have entire shaft hole bearing on shaft ... as long as the narrow part of the taper sits on shaft snug - that's all that's needed. The prop nut will cause the prop to sit square to the thrust washer ..... Once tightened up - prop is fine.

When a prop needs quite a lot of reaming - such as large glow jobs .. I ream both sides - front and rear - that way I do not end up with over large entry hole one side.

NEVER bore or drill a prop shaft hole ... even with a Pillar Drill - the drill bit can go off-centre. You only need a tiny deflection or angle to the hole and BHAM - useless vibrating, off-balance prop.


Nigel
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Old 06-07-2014, 06:29 AM   #10
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Default

Originally Posted by drummaker View Post
I have been doing this a couple of years now and have been very active in building, crashing, rebuilding etc.

There is something which disturbs me that maybe you people can help me out with.

I have purchased both Standard, and Metric reamers, and it seems I still Never have the right size for prop adapters. This drives me crazy!

I cannot believe that a man willing to buy tools is STILL stuck reaming electric props with a set of needle nose plyers.

What do I have to get to make this stuff work?

I though it was the props and shafts I am buying but then I still have the issue with props and adapters on high end foamies.


What gives?
is there a tool or reamer that I don't know about?
If you're flying with electric power, check out those APC-E Electric props. These propellers come with a standard size hub diameter, and use a drop in ring type adapter that matches the shaft diameter of your motor.

That ring adapter includes five shaft diameters, with the outside diameter of the ring matching the inside diameter of the propeller hub.

Here is a 12X8 prop as an example.
http://www.apcprop.com/ProductDetail...tCode=LP12080E

And, the ring adapter sizes.
http://www.apcprop.com/ProductDetail...ctCode=LPAR06E

FYI, these electric props work better with electric motors, as compared to using a glow engine type prop on an electric motor.

And, while you're in the APC web site, check out this performance data for their props. I've checked them against the real world, their predictions are fairly close.
http://www.apcprop.com/v/downloads/P...B/datalist.asp

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Old 06-07-2014, 08:01 AM   #11
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I have various E props that I still have to ream ... but yes Denny - the rings are a great asset when props have them.
Even better are the ones that have rings for front and back ... so you can accommodate tractor and pusher with same prop. Most props have the rings for the rear of shaft hole ... this is then a problem on a pusher as the ring is not held by the prop saver band. It's ok if you use a washer and nut. So some of the APC style from HK have rings that fit back and also rings that fit front .. took me a while to realise that !! I've shown others who also didn't realise it ...
It was that I couldn't understand why the prop-boss had a recess at back and front .. when other props only have at back.

A reamer is a good tool to have anyway ... it's not only props that need holes enlarging ...

My HK reamer has a sharp point - that pricks through plans into wood / foam ... it opens up servo arm holes ... pricks covering and the 'blade edge' slices plastic / covering nicely ....

The eBay reamer does not have the sharp point but is hardened and able to ream just about anything I put to it.

Nigel

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