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Old 02-26-2015, 07:54 PM   #1
Toddah
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Default Building a new Telemaster Senior

So last night I ordered my Telemaster Senior and a new Spektrum DX7S radio and in preparation for their arrival I constructed a build bench so I had a flat smooth place to do the actual construction.
I used the rails on my tablesaw as a flat surface and constructed a 3/4" MDF table edged with 3/4" ply to keep it flat. I can pick up the entire table with content if I need the saw or I decide to move to another area.
I was able to get a 2' X 4" ceiling tile from Home Depot to lay on the table and accept push pins for the construction.
The table is flat to within about .050 corner to corner.
Is this flat enough to build a good straight airframe and wing spar assembly on or do I need to do some tweaking?


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Old 02-27-2015, 09:17 AM   #2
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Welcome to Wattflyer Toddah! It's always great to see new faces, especially builders.

I've only built 2 kits. Each one was built on a table that I never measured for flatness. Both turned out fine and flew well. So yours is probably G to G. Maybe some of the gurus will jump in and give better advice.

I like the ceiling tile idea. I just used a large piece of cardboard.

I'm looking forward to following your build.

John

Please call me John. I came up w/ Max2112 when I thought you were all internet predators after me Lucky Charms!!
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Old 02-27-2015, 12:34 PM   #3
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Can't say if that building surface is really flat or not without checking it 6 ways with a straight edge.

If its straight it should stay straight the way you have it.

I use a solid core door with masonite skins and spray-glue pink foam on top so it will accept pins.
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Old 02-27-2015, 01:39 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Toddah View Post
...
The table is flat to within about .050 corner to corner.
Is this flat enough to build a good straight airframe and wing spar assembly on or do I need to do some tweaking?
Wecome to Wattflyer!

.050 in? That is plenty straight. I wish my building table was anywhere near that flat. Right now I'm just using a plastic folding table with a ceiling tile on the top. It's as flat and straight as I can get, but I've only checked with my metal yardstick... Probably +- 1/8 in or so. Flatter and straighter will always be better.

Please post your progress as you are building!

Steve

Growing the fleet!
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:41 PM   #5
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Man that is a great flying plane. Can't wait for some telemaster photos start showing up. It will look like you have purchased a lumberyard!
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:19 PM   #6
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Default Build so far

I have been busy the last few days and I am making pretty good progress.
First off let me say the laser cut kit is fantastic everything fits very well.
I was missing a few sheets of flat 3" balsa and one Fuse section was damaged by the landing gear strut in the box. I called Hobby Express and they said they would have the supplier ship out a new part ASAP.
The balsa is actually pretty good quality.
THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE HORRIBLE!!! They must be from a previous generation of telemaster design! The plans are not to scale they are distorted in all directions, Very good quality printing and line work but simply out of scale and distorted. Use them as a general guideline only.
The plans call out parts not included in the kit (or used in this design) or part names are wrong on the assembly instructions When I spoke to H.E. I told them I was impressed with the build and cut quality but they really needed to do something with the instructions he said he had been told there were a few mistakes in the set!
Now that I have that off my chest here is my progress so far.



First lets lay a square and parallel foundation

Yikes! the leading edge is not straight! out by about 1/8"








Pulled everything back and pinned it down to set a straight line leading edge.


Lets make sure the trailing edge is following the leading edge (since the plans are distorted)



Begin dry fit assembly



Everything seems to fit well so lets start glued assembly




Mount for the aluminum bar wing spine



Wingtip assembly


Wing skinning begins
















2 wings, flaps and ailerons done

Beginning the tail section


progressing



Things are progressing well I hope to be on the main fuselage by tonight.

WOW I cannot believe the top skins shown in the above picture are only 1/64" Balsa! Like Paper. I may need to modify and replace those with fabbed parts a little thicker. I am afraid I could put my finger through those skins!

Thanks for following along!!
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Old 03-08-2015, 05:00 PM   #7
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Balsa, like all woods, can warp. Just cutting a part out of a straight sheet can relieve tension and have the part warp.

You can spray with a mild ammonia solution and pull the parts straight .
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:04 PM   #8
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Default Thanks

Fhhuber,
Thanks for the tip about the ammonia, I am more accustomed to working with Maple, Cherry and Oak in my woodshop not Balsa.
The warp did not bother me at all I was just making sure I started straight and flat I figured after everything is glued and set the internal structure will stay flat where I pulled it before pinning it down. besides a little internal counter stressing is going to help make the frame stiffer.
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Old 03-08-2015, 11:26 PM   #9
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I know what you mean, Toddah. I was brought up on mostly walnut and teak myself. I'm glad to hear you're able to deal with the bad plans.

Give a man a plane and he'll fly for a day.

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build a plane and he'll fly for a lifetime.
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Old 03-09-2015, 02:21 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Toddah View Post
I have been busy the last few days and I am making pretty good progress.
First off let me say the laser cut kit is fantastic everything fits very well.
I was missing a few sheets of flat 3" balsa and one Fuse section was damaged by the landing gear strut in the box. I called Hobby Express and they said they would have the supplier ship out a new part ASAP.
The balsa is actually pretty good quality.
Things are progressing well I hope to be on the main fuselage by tonight.

WOW I cannot believe the top skins shown in the above picture are only 1/64" Balsa! Like Paper. I may need to modify and replace those with fabbed parts a little thicker. I am afraid I could put my finger through those skins!

Thanks for following along!!
Hey
I see a bottle of Titebond in your photos. I've got a few bottles of CA, but for any model airplane construction, or repair, for me, Titebond is the adhesive of choice.

Tests I ran long ago showed that Titebond can actually be a little bit lighter than CA after the yellow glue has cured for 24 hours. That surprised me.

Plus, if you ever need to "Unglue" something, application of heat with a heat gun, you can peel off the glue joint with a dull knife.

Do that with CA and debonder, use a lot of ventilation!

DennyV
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Old 03-09-2015, 01:47 PM   #11
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Default titebond

Yup it has been the glue of choice for me for awhile now. I use it exclusively for any woodworking bonding that I do.
CA is great for making something stay in place instantly if I am gluing balsa to balsa but when I am gluing anything that has ply involved or if I think the joint might take an extreme load I will use titebond or if it is in need of instant position lock I will put a ribbon of titebond but leave a spot glueless on each end and after placing the part I will tack it in place with CA.
I think the titebond will flex a little without losing its grip. although I have disassembled a few joints on balsa made with CA and I am impressed with its ability to penetrate the wood and reinforce the wood itself.
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:21 AM   #12
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Default Servo harness routing

Weekend progress. Short weekend went to two RC swap meets and then drove 100 miles to attend my grandsons Pinewood derby race then drove back home to lay in servo wiring and then try my hand at ultracote application. Here are the results



















That was my shop work for the weekend.
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Old 03-24-2015, 05:41 AM   #13
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A bit late this time... future reference.

Make the holes in the ribs for the servo leads SLIGHTLY larger and further forward. Roll printer paper into a tube (you get about 3 or 4 tubes per sheet) and insert in the wing. Glue in place. run your wires through super lightweight conduits. This makes fishing the wires through the wing easier when you have to replace a servo or remove a servo for other maintenance.
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:54 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Toddah View Post
and then try my hand at ultracote application. Here are the results

Seriously??? That came out awesome! Covering still kicks my butt. It is the single most discouraging thing for me when it comes to working on planes. I would be completely stoked to have results like this.
Try my hand at covering....pshaw.

I'm either going to get good at flying em, or get good at fixin em!
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:20 PM   #15
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Default Thanks!!

Actually I had planned on wiring the wires you see in as a permanent electrical bus. They are held in place by a drop of CA on each rib to keep them in place. I also encircled each hole I drilled with CA to strengthen the wood after drilling it.
I will place connectors on each end to attach the servo leads. I left plenty of excess on each end in the event I need to repair or replace an end at some time in the future.
I figure if I need to access the permanent wiring it will be a major project involving re-skinning the wings anyway. I spent many years as a Porsche race tech and a Sr Controls Design Engineer and I simply have to make wiring neat and simple or it would drive me crazy looking at it.
Good idea on the "paper conduit" Thanks!!
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:03 PM   #16
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Generally a bad idea to have the wires glued into the wing.

when something needs repair you need to get the wires out of the way.

And... you have promoted the insulation breaking down faster (still will be years most likely) Its going to develop cracks at every glue spot.

Some of these models have been known to remain airworthy in excess of 30 years.
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:44 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
Generally a bad idea to have the wires glued into the wing.

when something needs repair you need to get the wires out of the way.

And... you have promoted the insulation breaking down faster (still will be years most likely) Its going to develop cracks at every glue spot.

Some of these models have been known to remain airworthy in excess of 30 years.
Ah, another nubee mistake! Seemed like a GREAT idea at the time!
Thanks for the heads up and I will remember those pointers!!!!!!!
I did glue one point and then removed it to see how difficult it would be to remove the wires in the event I needed to (when I needed to)
SOOOO MUCH TO LEARN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the advice I do appreciate the words of an experienced builder/pilot!!!!

T
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:06 PM   #18
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Don't go back and "correct" it now... Wait till you need to re-cover the wing
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:42 AM   #19
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Thats your first covering job?? Dayam, I am SO jealous!

I wish I could cover like that! Transparents, I've almost got it, but opaques still put a boot in my butt!

Give a man a plane and he'll fly for a day.

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Old 03-25-2015, 01:37 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Toddah View Post
Weekend progress. Short weekend went to two RC swap meets and then drove 100 miles to attend my grandsons Pinewood derby race then drove back home to lay in servo wiring and then try my hand at ultracote application. Here are the results

That was my shop work for the weekend.
Good grief.

I've been involved in model flying since the 1960's, and have been using those iron on coverings since the mid 1980's.

And NONE of my covering jobs are anywhere close to how your job looks.

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Old 03-25-2015, 01:46 PM   #21
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Beginners Luck

Thanks!!

T
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Old 03-25-2015, 01:53 PM   #22
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I kind of found the heat gun is my friend when applying the colors. I spent WAY to much time laying out the openings and precutting to try and get the wing covered with 1 sheet of of Ultracote. I was able to cover the whole wing with one piece except for about 2.5" on the bottom trailing edge and the hinge section of the trailing edge.
The first attachment points were quite a wrestling match trying to manage the part that had not been aligned or tacked down yet but once I had a few tacks in place it took about an hour and a half to do the second wing last night.
The second wing I had a much harder time with keeping wrinkles out of the flat sections but I was able to persevere and get them down to very small lines that look like a crack in the covering and then hit them with the heat gun and when it shrinks they almost disappear.
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Old 03-25-2015, 02:07 PM   #23
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Actually the first night I was applying transparent covering I could not get it to stick to the wood hardly at all I was ready to throw the whole pile into the trash and take up knitting or some other hobby then I had an epiphany!!!! and as soon as I REMOVED THE CLEAR BACKING the transparent stuff started working just fine. Everything after that was a breeze!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:47 PM   #24
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LOL!! OK, now I feel a little better!

I'm either going to get good at flying em, or get good at fixin em!
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