I was just reading a post in the vintage and oldtimers section, this was a discussion of a motor that out lived its usefil life. one member suggested replaceing the motor and to use the water break in method. I am still pretty new to this electric flight stuff can anybody explane the water break in method and the reason for doing it?
Breaking in the brushes is for brushed motors, not used in brushless because there are no brushes to break in
Why do you break in the brushes? I don't have a drawing so lets visulize the brush and the commutator. The end of the brush is square and the commutator is round. With the motor in this condition, the brush will contact only along a thin line in the center of the brush. As the brushes wear in, the bottom of the brush will take the rounded shape of the commutator. This increases the contact area. A good thing, as it will reduce arching and make the brushes run cooler.
How do you break in a motor. Wet or dry, just like the sand paper. Run the motor without a prop on a low voltage. A long time ago, I just used flashlight batteries. 2 D cells and ran the motor until I killed the batteries. If you do this and dunk the motor while it is running, this is supposed to break it in faster, more completely, and keep the brushes cooler in the process. I used the dry method. Of course, I don't do this any more since I'm 100% brushless now.
Why are most guys running brushless? Brushed motors are limited to the amount of current because the brushes will start to arc at higher currents. You will find that now, must users of brushed motors are limited to very small models. Even these are going brushless because the costs have dropped so much on the brushless motors and speed controls and there are preformance gains from running at higher voltage. You must run a brushless motor with a brushless controler.
I also used two D flashlight batteries. I used the water method and just let it run until the water got dark and cloudy. Usually around 20 mins or so. You should also make sure that the motor is running in the correct direction that your going to be using it.
Its all Brushless for me now a days. Just plug them in and there ready to go.
"When they outlaw RC Planes, only US outlaws will still fly RC Planes..."
Do not use the water break in method on anything but sealed can motors. Motors. Rebuildable motor use softer brush material and the brushes will be ruined if you use water for break in.
Mike N
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Hello, Army Dad, here's a link to several versions of the break-in method. I know it sounds weird but it really does work, extending the useful life of the brushed motors considerably. Reduces "arcing" also, which in turn cuts down on possible radio interference. I just make it a part of the new motor "prep", after I break them in, dry, oil bearings, solder/connectors leads on. Works great!
Ron
Hello, Army Dad, here's a link to several versions of the break-in method. I know it sounds weird but it really does work, extending the useful life of the brushed motors considerably. Reduces "arcing" also, which in turn cuts down on possible radio interference. I just make it a part of the new motor "prep", after I break them in, dry, oil bearings, solder/connectors leads on. Works great!
Ron
Hello, Army Dad, here's a link to several versions of the break-in method. I know it sounds weird but it really does work, extending the useful life of the brushed motors considerably. Reduces "arcing" also, which in turn cuts down on possible radio interference. I just make it a part of the new motor "prep", after I break them in, dry, oil bearings, solder/connectors leads on. Works great!
Ron
The easist way to clean up the motor after running in is to drop it in some alcohol, after a couple of minutes take it and blow it out. Alcohol absorbs water, people up north drop some in their tanks to remove the water from their gasoline. If you can't blow it out for some reason, like no compressor then use your heat gun. Let it dry in the sun if you don't have a heat gun either.
Of course you do oil it also.
The first time I used the alcohol was on my servos after flipping my gas boat. The Hitec people recomemded doing this and it works.
A lot of us slot racers use the water break in method too...
Be very careful how long you run the motor under water...and check the wear pattern after running under water for just half a minute or so. The Mabuchi can type motor brushes are pretty hard, so it might take a little while, but do it in short "bursts" if you will, checking frequently. (I have seen some slot car motor brushes just about disappear in less than a minute , before we discovered we got a bad batch (too soft) of brushes!)
You could also put just a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil in the water...it will help keep the arm and inside of the can from getting rust spots on them.
If you are going to be running brushed motors, it's a good idea to get yourself a can of "Motor Spray" that the R/C car guys use to flush out their motors with. It will help keep the commutator clean, and flush out brush dust after you've been using the motor for a while.
I prefer the "Break Out" method... Break aout a few dollars more and go bushless. The little BP motors or Hobby Lobby Xt400 go for less than $20.00. I remimber a friend paying $29.00 a few months back for a GWS 400 gear drive. On this example he could have bought a better lighter motor for less. Thats the "change in" method... Change in your pocket...
I prefer the "Break Out" method... Break aout a few dollars more and go bushless. The little BP motors or Hobby Lobby Xt400 go for less than $20.00. I remimber a friend paying $29.00 a few months back for a GWS 400 gear drive. On this example he could have bought a better lighter motor for less. Thats the "change in" method... Change in your pocket...
That is my preference also, but others use what they have, hence the way to extend the useful life of the lowly brushed motor.
Water method break in
Linear Mode
