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Old 10-12-2014, 09:13 PM   #1
Turbojoe
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Default Mountain Models Tom-E-Boy 150 build thread!

I've built a ton of Mountain Models kits including alpha and beta kits and while I've made contributions to the build threads I've never done a build thread start to finish so hang in there as this could get weird....

Ladies and gentlemen I present the Mountain Models Tom-E-Boy 150!

I hope I don't bore you to death with posts of the minute details of the build. I started off covering most every aspect of the build then quickly tired of all the work and tapered off toward the end as the manual covers every aspect of the build. I did make a few minor deviations and I cover them in the posts.

I shot video of the maiden using one of the $8.00 keychain cameras from Hobby King. #1 mistake was making a mount for my glasses that held the camera at 90 degrees to the field of view. #2 mistake was not making sure I had the camera pointed at the subject. #3 mistake was buying this camera in the first place. What I did see of the flight was poor quality at its finest. You truly do get what you pay for........

Lets get started on the build!

Joe


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:15 PM   #2
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What's in the bag.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:17 PM   #3
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Parts inventory!


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:19 PM   #4
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Step 11 is where we build the motor mount and firewall. Gather parts F2, MM1, MM2, MM3 and MM4.During assembly the firewall sits with F2 lettering face up. Assemble all the pieces for the motor mount to the firewall DO NOT GLUE YET with the lettering facing out on all parts. The parts are cut to provide the necessary down and right thrust. Once you are sure everything fits right and the lettering is facing out on all parts you can glue them all together. I used thick CA.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:20 PM   #5
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Steps 12 - 14 Starts the fuselage assembly. You need to gather left fuse side F8, your assembled and glued F2 firewall/motor mount you just built. Balsa parts F1, F3, F10, F11 and F30. From the plywood sheet also grab F4 and F5. Assemble all those parts to the fuselage side F8. DO NOT USE ANY GLUE!


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:22 PM   #6
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Step 15 Once all the tabs are nested in place on fuse side F8 install right fuse side F16 and nest it completely. To hold it all together I used one of the rubber bands that came in the kit to hold the nose together and at the tail a piece of the blue painters tape that held the kit sheets together. NOW you can get out the thin CA (I'm still using Super Phatic glue) and stick that sucker together. Use the glue sparingly on all joints. Make sure you keep the fuse straight and flat on the building surface with no twists while you are gluing.

Step 16 Install both wing support plates F23 and glue in place. It's beginning to look like a fuselage now. Still a few steps left though.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:24 PM   #7
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Step 17 and 18 are performed together as they provide alignment for each other. Gather pre-bent landing gear and plywood parts F6 and LG. Also get two balsa parts F31. Landing gear plywood part F6 gets slid into slots in the fuselage just behind bulkhead F5. Use the pre-bent landing gear wire to push plywood part LG all the way into and seated fully between F6 and F5 we installed earlier.

Step 18 involves installing battery hatch rails/fuse doublers F31 between bulkheads F6 and F30. Remove landing gear wire, make sure everything is seated well and glue it all into place.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:27 PM   #8
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Steps 19 - 21. Gather parts F14, F15, F17 and F19. Install fuse bottom F14. Keep the fuselage flat and square while you glue F14 in place.

Step 20. Install fuse top F15. Make certain it is oriented properly with part number outside and the pushrod exit is on the right side. Again, while keeping the fuse flat glue F15 into place.

Step 21. Glue F17 firewall doubler into place BEHIND the firewall F2. Glue F19 cowl plate into place.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:30 PM   #9
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Part 22. Gather parts F20,F21, F22 and F23. Stack and glue F20, F21 and F22 together on the fuse at F19 cowl top making sure the large hole stays clear all the way down. Glue the cheek doublers on the inside of the motor area.

Part 23. This calls for gluing F13 to the fuse in the motor area. Now is the time to check motor/ESC fit BEFORE gluing F13 into place! In my case I used a HK Turnigy Plush 6A ESC that I got from a buddy. The ESC to motor wires were only 1.5 inches long. It was in a sealed package so that's the way it comes, he didn't cut them. That doesn't provide enough length to fish the wires through and be able to connect to the motor if F13 is installed. I added 2 inches to each wire and now everything fits. No clue why they made the wires so blasted short but make sure the ESC you use has at least 3" long motor wires.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:33 PM   #10
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Step 24 28. In these steps we build the battery hatch and its magnet mount. You really need to pay attention during these steps or you could end up with a hatch that won't close!

Step 24 - 25. You need one of the small magnets from the hardware bag, plywood parts F32 and F33. Work the magnet into F33 before gluing anything together. Mine was a very tight fit. If yours is loose add some CA before you slide the magnet in. Glue F32 and F32 together then glue to bulkhead F30 making sure the mount is level with the bottom of the fuselage.

Step 26 - 27. Glue battery hatch halves HA1 and HA1a together. Glue support rails HA1 and HA2 to the assembled hatch halves. Glue in both plywood HA4 "latches". Now glue magnet holder HA3 to the rear inside of the hatch making sure it is flush to the rear edge of the battery hatch. Take the remaining magnet and put it on the magnet you mounted in the fuselage. Now mark the end of the magnet facing you. Take the magnet and glue it into the magnet holder H3 with the MARKED side going inside the hole.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:34 PM   #11
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Step 29 - 31. Gather balsa parts F24, F25 and plywood part F1R.

Step 29. Fit the balsa "eyebrows" F24 in place on bulkhead F4 and make sure they're level with the wing saddle. Lightly glue them in place. Next take the four very small F25 pieces and glue and stack them under each F24. They're tiny and can be a pain in the ass to maneuver and hold in place while gluing. Just stab those suckers with your Xacto and use it to put them into position. I let these pieces protrude just slightly past the fuselage side. They will be sanded to shape later and I wanted to make sure they could be blended in with no low spots.

Step 31. Glue F1R servo reinforcement plate to the bottom of F1 crutch in the battery bay. Make sure it is lined up and square with the hole in F1.

That's it. We're done with the fuselage BASIC build. For now.......


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:36 PM   #12
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Step 32. There are no build instructions in the manual for the tail feathers. They really aren't needed. The plans show everything you'll need. I have taken pictures of the needed parts as well as before and after assembly. No tips to give here other than take it easy with the glue if you're using CA. Cured CA is super hard to sand and you could end up with very thin areas on these already thin parts. Another reason I like the Super Phatic glue so much.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:37 PM   #13
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Step 33 - 36. For step 33 we install the pushrod housings. I find it easier to work the pushrod wires through the guide holes in the formers then slip the housings into place with them protruding about 1/8" on the inside the servo area. Hold the housings as flat into the exit slots as possible and glue them in place. Using a sharp Xacto or single edge razor blade trim the housings flush with the fuselage.

Step 34 we finally start to sand things. Sand the nose/cowl to a nice rounded shape. Sand the entire fuselage and the top cabin front to match the curve in the F24 "eyebrows". Sand the tail feathers nice and flat and smooth. Round the leading edges while you're at it. Sand the wing as needed.

Step 35. Sand a bevel in the elevator and rudder. I tried but couldn't take a decent picture of this. It's covered quite well in the manual though.

Step 36. Cover everything! Many of us have a love/hate relationship with Solite and it's many clones out there but for this bird it's the only covering to use. Anything else will be entirely too heavy and will most likely crush parts when being shrunk. The best tip I can give when working with Solite is to sprinkle a little baby powder on the adhesive side after removing the clear protector. Smear it around then wipe off the excess with a soft towel. That will kill the static cling and keep it from sticking to itself with disastrous results. The baby powder doesn't affect adhesion at all. I've been doing this for many years and have never had to re-stick a seam.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:39 PM   #14
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Steps 37-50

Step 37. Step 37-40 involve beveling, hinging the rudder and elevator and gluing the horizontal and vertical stabs in place. The manual covers this very well. I deviated here by having everything prepped, covered and hinged before gluing to the fuselage.


*Steps 41-42*. This is another area I deviated from the instructions. Instead of gluing in the 1/16" plywood gear retainer plate permanently I just put three drops of medium CA on the plate and hit it with CA accelerator to harden the "bumps". Now the plate slides in nice and tight to hold the gear in place but a firm tug will pull the gear out for flying from grass when the winds are light and you want to fly outdoors.

Steps 43-50 are going to be dependent on the motor/ESC and radio gear you will be using and how much you need to modify to make it fit. These steps are covered quite well in the build manual and to be quite honest I'm just plain burned out from taking pictures and writing build info. I want to get this bird in the air! Having it ready to cover shouldn't take more than two hours even for a novice. I probably have 20 hours involved in this build log. Dang, no wonder I haven't done any full on build logs before....... ; )


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:42 PM   #15
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Steps one and two involve gluing the wing spars and wing tips together. I used "Super-Phatic" glue here and will use it for most of the entire build.


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:48 PM   #16
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Here we start the wing build by assembling the left side spars, ribs and trailing edge. Very simple assembly here. Ribs W7 and W10 can be slid into place on the spar now too.
DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET!


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:49 PM   #17
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Step 4 involves adding the leading edge. This is a 2 piece affair and because this is a smaller bird some parts are thin and fragile until assembled and glued. Be VERY careful here. I slid W3 into W14 and tack glued them together to make them stronger and easier to install. Work the edge onto the ribs very carefully.
DON'T GLUE ANYTHING YET!


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Old 10-12-2014, 09:51 PM   #18
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In step 5 the left wing is held flat on the building surface and glue all the joints.

Steps 6,7 and 8 are built exactly the same as the left side. Make sure you have the leading and trailing edges pulled tightly together and are well aligned before gluing.


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Old 10-12-2014, 10:07 PM   #19
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Guess what? You're pretty much done with the build. Now it's on to covering and installing whatever electronic gear you choose. I used pretty much what Brian suggests. I did have some trouble getting her to balance and had to add 1/4 oz of lead weight to the nose and the maiden was flown with a heavier than suggested 2S 460mah Li-Po to help with balance. She came out balanced right on the spar and was perfect for me even in the 2-5mph winds that kicked up when I got to the field. She required no trim changes whatsoever and was flown at or below 1/2 throttle. I even did a few loops. Very well behaved and much smoother flying than I expected when the wind picked up. My AUW with the 460mah pack was 5.9 oz and honestly I think she'd fly better with an 800mah pack outside. Indoor flying would really shine with the lighter recommended 350mah pack. The maiden was flown for 6:04 minutes throttle on time and the battery took only 120mah to top off. 20 minute flight times are realistic with the 460mah pack and would be even higher indoors.

The Tom-E-Boy would be an amazing indoor flyer with a lighter battery than I flew but if the winds are relatively light she's just as well suited to flying in a park or even your front yard. That's why I posted the build thread in parkflyers rather than the micro/indoor forum.

Make sure you click on the links in the first post and give this kit a look see. I'm sure you'll be glad you did.

Joe

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Old 10-12-2014, 10:49 PM   #20
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Fastest build thread ever! Looks like yet another great MM kit.. So many kits, so little time...

Steve

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Old 10-12-2014, 11:18 PM   #21
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Steve,

Yeah, it has been finished, ready to fly and the build thread saved and ready for post for an embarrassingly long time. I had to wait for the temp to drop a bit before I wanted to go out and fly again. Hard to believe it's been close to a year since I've flown last. Thankfully the Tom-E-Boy flew hands off needing no trim changes so the rust on my fingers didn't come into play. I have a deep dislike for R/E airplanes and I'm really surprised at how well this one flew. This puppy flew smooth and predictable even in the wind. As soon as I get my hands on a cheap AC power source for one of my DC chargers this bird will live out its life at work as a lunch/after work flyer. I have a nice 100x200 grass lot right out in front of the office. I also have a 4 acre manicured playing field 300 yards away. I'll have to see if I can get away with flying in the gym as well. This plane is going to be the best of both worlds for me at work.

Joe

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Old 10-18-2014, 04:21 PM   #22
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Good looking airplane Turbo.

What was I thinking?
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Old 10-18-2014, 05:52 PM   #23
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Joe - awesome work man!

Love these small balsa builds. Nothing wrong with foam but something special about balsa too!

I am working on an old My-O-My that will be larger but the same idea! I need to get back at it.

How did this one fly?

Mike
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Old 10-18-2014, 05:57 PM   #24
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Mike,

See post #19 above for the flight report. She flew great even in some wind!

Too many other things to do today but I'm hoping to take it out again tomorrow if the wind stays light. Gotta take my over powered EVA Sport too. The weather here is too nice right now not to be flying! Mid to high 80's and light winds.

I'm going to try to work out a camera mount for my glasses that #1 has the right orientation (instead of 90 degrees) and #2 is actually pointed in the direction of the plane. I blew it badly on the first attempt.

Joe

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Old 10-19-2014, 06:35 PM   #25
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I'm about to give up on trying to fly. Got a total of six batteries charged up last night. 3 for each plane. Charged the 9C TX battery too. Tested everything before bed and all was ready to go. As I'm loading the TX in the car I turn it on again just to check. Dead! OK, so I grab a spare battery. Still dead so I do what we always do to electronics that stop working. I smacked it on the side. It lit up. Shook it a bit and it died again. Dammit! Can't fly with that. I've had this TX for 12 years and it's got a right to finally die but I'll open it up to see whats loose in there. Won't get to fly though even if I do fix it. As I looked over at the motorcycle I noticed the rear tire was flat. I just had the tube replaced at the shop yesterday for a nail puncture! I ride the motorcycle to work everyday so I'll have to tear the wheel off AGAIN and see if I can patch where the idiots pinched it. Unfortunately they're closed today. I just can't seem to have any luck when I finally get a chance to fly.

I did get a better mount made for the camera so if I ever get the second flight hopefully I can get it on video.

Joe

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