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Old 02-01-2015, 12:38 AM   #1
mclarkson
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Default Tower Hobbies 40" P-51 - Reno Racer rebuild

I've been fairly happy with my Tower Hobbies P-51. It's a nice flying bird, but it doesn't get out of the hanger very much.



I've decided to give it a bit of a rebuild, re-painting it and pumping up the horsepower.

I'm planning on replacing the stock 2.5oz motor 1000kV motor with this GT2815 1500kV motor, and stepping up from 3 cells to 4.

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Old 02-01-2015, 12:41 AM   #2
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Step one is removing the existing paint. I'm using paper towels soaked in acetone. The silver paint is a little work but the black paint is extremely stubborn.






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Old 02-04-2015, 05:30 AM   #3
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*crickets*

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Old 02-04-2015, 05:32 AM   #4
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Once I had the old paint (mostly) off, I sprayed everything silver as a base, then went over it with 'Carnation Red.'









I didn't use enough silver to completely cover the black wing stipes, and they show through the red a bit but, that's okay, the graphics will cover all that up.

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Old 02-04-2015, 09:24 PM   #5
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How many horsies are going to be galloping in this Reno racer?
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:54 PM   #6
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Well, the guys at HeadsUp have recommended this motor - the Emax GT2815/05 1500kv - with a 60A ESC on a 4-cell with an 8x8 prop.

The pitch speed is somewhere north of 100MPH. I don't know that I'll make that, but assuming it doesn't catch fire and explode, it oughta be pretty darn quick.


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Old 02-05-2015, 06:03 AM   #7
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The first graphics - a red checkerboard pattern - applied as wide stripes to the top of the wings.




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Old 02-05-2015, 06:17 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Step one is removing the existing paint. The silver paint is a little work.
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Once I had the old paint (mostly) off, I sprayed everything silver as a base. I didn't use enough silver.



I'm either going to get good at flying em, or get good at fixin em!
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:01 AM   #9
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I'm going to try using the stock mount. I've hogged it out in front, reinforced it with some (sloppy) fiberglass work, and bolted the new X-mount in place.





The engine mounts behind the X-mount, thus:






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Old 02-09-2015, 02:02 AM   #10
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Unfortunately, the cowling is now about an inch too long. I'm still puzzling over how best to proceed with its modification.


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Old 02-09-2015, 02:44 AM   #11
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Mark that's a easy fix. It looks like the motor can will go through the fire wall. If I am correct in assuming this Ace hardware sells nylon stand offs, or if you can wait for shipping HURC sells them to. Cut them to 1" and put them between the firewall and the motor mount. You will just need to get some longer screws. That will give you the extra 1" and problem solved.
http://www.headsuphobby.com/Spacers-Stand-Offs_c150.htm
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:03 AM   #12
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Interesting thought. I actually have some from HURC from a previous project, but they expect a bigger machine screw/bolt than will fit through the x-mount. I don't know if it'd be a bit jiggly using the smaller screws...

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Old 02-09-2015, 07:46 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Interesting thought. I actually have some from HURC from a previous project, but they expect a bigger machine screw/bolt than will fit through the x-mount. I don't know if it'd be a bit jiggly using the smaller screws...
Not a problem but if you are worried about it slip some heat shrink or fuel tubing over the bolts to fill the space and make the fit tighter. You're main issues will be keeping the bolts tight and having the ends of the stand-offs held firmly against the X and the plywood.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:35 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Interesting thought. I actually have some from HURC from a previous project, but they expect a bigger machine screw/bolt than will fit through the x-mount. I don't know if it'd be a bit jiggly using the smaller screws...

The ones from Ace hardware have a small diameter hole. I normally have to drill them to the size I need.
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:27 AM   #15
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Went by Ace today, but the only ones they had actually have a larger inner hole than the ones I already have.

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Old 02-10-2015, 05:32 AM   #16
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Won't hurt anything being slightly too large. The tension is what holds the motor in place, not the size of the hole.

If you linked to the correct motor, ill think you'll burn it up on 4 cells. Its rated for 48 amps, or 530 amps. It pulls 46 amps on 3 cells with a 8x6. A 4 cell with an 8x8, ill bet you'll end up north of 1000 watts.

Case in point, my ultra stick 25 has a monster 32 with a 12x8 prop, 770kv. On 3 cells it pulls 350ish watts. On 4 cells it pulls 810

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:04 AM   #17
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Thanks for the input guys. I went ahead and ran longer machine screws through the stand-offs I had on hand (1") and it fits pretty well and seems pretty stable.

hayofstacks, I totally hear what you're saying. I'm giving this a try based on the recommendation of Jesse from Headsup RC. I talked to him (via email) about recommended setups, and he said:

As far as the Tower Hobbies P-51, that I can help with better:
  • Emax GT2815/05 1500kv Outrunner Brushless Motor
  • HURC 60 Amp Brushless Motor ESC
  • APC 8 x 8E Thin Electric Composite Propeller
  • 14.8v 1300mah 50C to 14.8v 2200mah 50C lipo battery

Please note that the above recommendation is inconsistent with the prop data in our web listing for the motor. That does not mean that it cannot be done; these Emax GT motors are a lot more capable than even we give them credit for, and the above set-up has been used by a lot of our customers on warbirds and pylon racers with great success. The key is to make sure you get good ventilation over the motor and ESC (the HURC 60 amp ESC is good for this because it has a big ribbed metal heat sink).


So - I'ma give it a shot. We'll see.

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Old 02-10-2015, 06:05 AM   #18
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Here's where the motor's at now:



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Old 02-10-2015, 06:27 AM   #19
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Im interested to see where this goes. Prop data would be most interesting.

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:21 AM   #20
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The mounting looks great.

To deal with supplying adequate cooling air... open the scale air inlet under the spinner and install a baffle to direct the incomming air up at the motor. Then ensure good air passage out.

Not sure how the interior of your foam airframe is. The Dynam P-51 I found air could pass right on through if i just opened up a SCALE air outlet on the rear of the belly scoop. (full scale the bottom of the scoop hinges down to open up the air outlet for better cooling while taxiing or idling)
Some WWII pilots found that opening that outlet suddenly at high speed could allow some interesting maneuvers... and used that to avoid getting shot down.
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Old 02-10-2015, 07:56 AM   #21
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The Tower P-51 has an open inlet under the spinner, and a decent-sized outlet behind the belly scoop. I think airflow will be pretty decent.




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Old 02-10-2015, 08:18 AM   #22
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The exit is in the scale location :p
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Old 02-11-2015, 02:14 AM   #23
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Mark glad the stand offs worked for you. I have used them on many planes. If you find you need any down and right washers work great to achieve this. Have fun with your speedy Stang looking forward to your flight report.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:35 AM   #24
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I was stumped on how best to paint the cockpit canopy, so I went to my local hobby store and talked to the guy there who seems to know about painting models and such. He recommended against using a brush, saying it would probably come out streaky. We talked about masking the canopy off but the problem is the foam. If I put masking tape on the painted foam, it’ll almost certainly pull the paint off when I remove the tape. He had no ideas.

Then, as I was leaving, he said, “Well, you know, you could try cling wrap. I’ve heard of some guys using that, if you think it will cling well enough.”

I decided to give it a try, at the risk of having to strip all the paint and start over again on that piece.

What I had on hand was Glad Press'n Seal. I cut it into strips an inch or two wide and pressed it in place.

Here I encountered the biggest problem: since the film is more-or-less transparent, it’s darned hard to see where you have and haven’t applied it.

However, when I peeled everything off I was delighted at how well it had worked. The Press'n Seal didn’t harm the paint at all, and yet masked off the foam really well. There were no leaks or runs.

There are a couple of spots that will require touch-up, due to the aforementioned difficulty of telling exactly where the transparent film was but, overall, I’m really happy with how this came out. I’ll definitely be adding it to my toolkit.










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Old 02-11-2015, 02:46 PM   #25
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Man that is one awesome looking plane!
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