View Full Version : Maxford Nieuport 28 ARF

11-14-2008, 06:37 AM
Anyone here flying the Maxford USA, Nieuport 28 ARF? If so, how do you like it?

I'm currently working on one.

I'm not allowed to post a picture yet.

Glacier Girl
11-14-2008, 06:10 PM
Got a bud who has one.

MAKE 100% sure it's CG is nose heavy for first flight!!!

You must use rudder and ailerons for turns, to keep the nose from dropping.

Has a nasty snap to it if you let it slow down too much.

And like most you need to fly it all the way to the ground, too slow and it tends to nose over.

11-14-2008, 06:35 PM
Don't have the Nieuport but we do have the 50" Jenny made by them. Very nicely built and covered model. Flies like a champ too.

They seem to put out a really nice product. I got it for my son last Christmas and we have been very pleased with it.

11-14-2008, 06:40 PM
Glacier Girl: Cool, thank you!

I see my picture posted anyway.

11-16-2008, 01:29 AM
A couple of more pictures (if they will post):

11-17-2008, 02:27 AM
I didn't end up liking the way the cowl looked with the first paint job so I just refinished it.

11-17-2008, 08:01 AM
Lookin' good Kmot! I just love the way those machine guns are mounted on the Nieuport 28....are those included in the package?

Did you paint the entire camo yourself?...or did it come painted that way?

I know you placed it on the grass for aesthetic reasons....but if you want to take off or land on grass...those tiny wheels will markedly increase your chances of nosing over.

11-17-2008, 04:53 PM
Thank you barmonkey! :)

Yes, I painted the entire airplane. It comes in the kit already covered in a light cream or tan color. See photo. I also painted the underside as well.

Indeed the Vickers machine guns are included in the kit. I painted them up like a version I saw in a museum photo.

I purchased the William Bros wheels and made an error in my guess of what size to buy. I typically take off and land on a groomed baseball diamond dirt infield so I think it will be okay there.

dai phan
11-17-2008, 09:03 PM
How does it fly? DP

11-17-2008, 11:10 PM
I'll let you know after the maiden flight. :)

11-18-2008, 08:30 PM
I have been posting in a thread over at RCG but only one person has responded and shown any interest. I have received a lot more replies and interest here at WF so I figured I might as well post the build up photos in this thread. :)

When I bought this kit at my LHS I opened the box in the store and gave it a quick glance and it looked good. When I got it home and pulled all the parts out of the box I found a damaged wing, damaged cabane strut in the fuselage, and a cracked cowling. Instead of returning it I just decided to repair it. After all, in real life WWI they would have been making field repairs all the time, right? :p

I had to cut out a broken leading edge, and make a new one to splice back in. Then I covered it with what I had on hand, silver Ultracote.





I clamped the broken cabane and CA'd it back together.


I eventually repaired the crack in the cowl, as well as another crack that happened after mounting the cowl and test fitting a battery. I first tried liquid styrene cement, Didn't work. Then I tried tube styrene cement. Didn't work. Lastly, I used thin CA and kicker. That worked!


11-19-2008, 12:05 AM
This kit comes with almost no instructions but if you have built a plane or two it isn't really needed.

So I built it and put it all together and really hated the way it looked!


That picture was taken Dec 2007. I hung it up in my shop and did other things. I intended to paint the model and only got around to it beginning 10 days ago.


I did the camo all free hand, not actually copying a real plane that ever existed. The stickers I got from Callie Graphics, the same sticker set she made for a review in Fly RC Magazine. It was just easier to order an existing set than spec out a custom set.



I purchased some 9G servos for use in this plane and installed them. It is a very tight squeeze in there. I also had to make my own linkage because the stuff that came in the kit hardware pack got damaged. I used Dubro micro hardware linkage.


The wing uses a servo that came from Tower Hobbies as a freebie.


The AR6100E receiver was a drawing prize at least years club Christmas dinner! :D


I installed a Ripmax XTRA 2829/10 motor from Hobby People and a KMS 18A esc also from HP.



And then I proceeded to smoke the esc by hooking up a battery in reverse using a borrowed jumper. :roll:


11-19-2008, 02:53 AM
I purchased a Williams Bros pilot and wheels. I guess wrong on the size of the wheels and they are a bit to small but I will just live with that. :blah:

The goggles for the pilot were not in the package. An e-mail to WB and they sent me a replacement. I got the replacement, painted them, and then the spring loaded tweezers I was using popped and the goggles flew off somewhere in never-never land... :red:

I painted the pilot and wheels. Then I followed the directions on the WB package on how to make axles and made them and they turned out quite nice. I used twisted copper wire to secure the wheels in place.










11-20-2008, 01:05 AM
Comments at any time are welcomed! :)

I went searching on the internet for color photos of the Vickers machine guns. The ones that come in the kit are painted high gloss black all over. I found a photo of a Vickers that had a green parkerizing on the barrel shroud and charcoal parkerizing on the rest of the assembly. Plus I learned the ammunition feed ramp was brass. So I painted up my Vickers to represent what I found in the photo.



The cabane struts are made from rectangular plywood and were covered with the light tan film. I stripped the covering, sanded the edges fair, and stained them golden mahogany.



I didn't want to have a tailwheel, but instead wanted a tail skid. So I cut off the loop of wire where the wheel would have mounted and made a skid and attached it to the wire.



11-20-2008, 07:49 AM
The windscreen included in the kit is a piece of squared off plexi. I was looking at photos of Rickenbacker in his N28 and the windscreen on his plane. So I tried to make a psuedo close copy of something sorta way standoff looking. :p>

I had just opened a can of coffee and noticed the thick aluminum seal could be useful. I used a piece of that foil to wrap around the tail skid I made. So now I cut out a pattern of foil and tried to make a windscreen from it.


Then I put a layer of 3/4oz fiberglass on it to strengthen it, and eventaully put two more layers of 2oz cloth on it.


I used a can that was the approximate curve of the fuselage to form the windshield against.


Here is the cured and trimmed new windscreen next to the plexi piece.


And then after cutting out the glazing portion.


I then primered it and attached it to the fuselage.


11-20-2008, 10:52 AM
Nice addition of details, Kmot. They definatly have made it look much better. Kudos!

dai phan
11-20-2008, 03:05 PM
Hi Kmot,

On my N-18, I removed the covering and added stringers so I don't end up having the "saddle" look on the upper back deck. I don't know when I can fly it since it is still beyond my skill. I just start moving up to the Parkzone T-28 from flying 3 channel bi planes for years. In real life the N-18 killed lots of pilots due to its violent snap roll and tip stall at turns and at slow speed. I guess you may end up with a fast flying plane. BTW where are those decals coming from? Home made? DP

11-20-2008, 05:38 PM
Thanks rhino! :)

DP: the vinyl stickers came from Callie Graphics. She had already made the stickers for the author who wrote a review in Fly RC Magazine, so to save time and effort and money I just ordered the same set.

11-20-2008, 05:52 PM
I wanted to make the undercarriage look a little better than just plain wire. I initially thought about gluing some wood to the wire and then sanding it fair. But then I remembered that K&S Metals had some "streamline tube" in their product line so I bought a couple pieces of 1/4" wide brass streamline tube. It is the perfect size for this particular model. I cut the pieces to length and then using an Xacto razor saw I slit them lengthwise.


This allowed me to push the piece over the wire.


I then used wood clothes pins, turned around inside the spring, to clamp the tube while I silver soldered it back together.



After all legs were soldered, a little bit of cleanup with a needle file and some sandpaper prepared the new aerodynamic undercarriage struts for painting.

11-21-2008, 03:44 AM
Using some heavy paper I cut out a template for the windscreen glazing. Wondering what to use for the glazing itself, I stared at a water bottle and saw a perfect solution. Pre-curved glass! So I used the template to cut out a piece of the plastic water bottle for the 'window'.



I used some RC-56 glue and then clamped it into place and left it to dry overnight.


11-21-2008, 05:22 AM
After looking at the cowling for a few days I decided I didn't like the red/white/blue paint scheme so I did it over and just camoflauged it to match the fuselage and left a small red cowl ring in the front.




And this brings us up to the photos here, with the cowling refinished and the undercarriage struts painted.




11-21-2008, 06:47 PM
Next up I made some support struts for the horizontal stabiliser. Just some balsa sticks sanded fair and CA'd to the fuse and stab. I then brushed them with some stain.


After posting some inquiries here on Watt Flyer about rigging wire and thread I went on the hunt. I bought some fly tying floss and some actual wire and the wire turned out to be the best looking (of course) and so I have started the rigging process. I first rigged the stab and fin:



And then using a #59 drill bit and pin vise I drilled holes in the undercarriage struts so that I can solder the riggin wires into them.


I now need to figure out how I am going to do the wing rigging, and make the supports at the lower fuselage points.

11-21-2008, 09:44 PM
Beaut job on the 28 Kmot. On my Alb DIII I used wire as well and bought a small length of tiny aluminium tubing to cut up into short lengths and use as crimp lugs. The good thing is you can adjust the tension to where you want it and then squash, they can also be 'unsquashed' to loosen off again.

I also had the problem of securing the rigging to fuselage points and solved it with some nice little eyelets that the hobby shop had for model yachts (I think).

A 1mm drill through the skin and into the frame of the fuselage and a drop of epoxy and the securing point is done, strong too.

Great pictures on your thread, thanks for showing.


11-21-2008, 11:18 PM
Steve, thank you for the fantastic tip! And photos! :ws:

I'm going to copy your technique!

11-22-2008, 12:34 AM
Good work! Thanks for showing your methods...should be able to use some of this down the road.

11-22-2008, 11:56 PM
The tail number decals were missing from my package, but they arrived today. In the meantime, I painted the tail over in flat colors. The blue in particular needed to be darker. With the tail numbers in place it looks better. I posed for a couple of outdoor shots. Still have not worked on the wing rigging. No time.




11-23-2008, 12:09 AM
Previous post should have actually been posted yesterday, Friday.

Here it is Saturday. I went to my club field this morning to participate in a "work party" to pick up rocks from the dirt field surrounding the new park flyer/small aircraft runway. While I was up there and before the work started I wanted to try some taxi tests. I wanted to know if this plane had any nasty gyro habits. Well no it doesn't. It seems to track fairly well straight. I didn't originally plan to, but I couldn't resist and so I gave her the maiden flight this morning. :D

I set the CG per the suggested amount on Maxfords website, and I ended up with an aft CG. So the plane was a bit squirelly at first, and I had to fly with down elevator input. After a while I got it steady enough to move my left hand over to the right trim button and feed in a little down elevator and this made the plane behave better. I flew for about 5 minutes and then tried to land it. I didn't want to snap roll into a stall so I kept my speed up, and that made it hard to land on what seems like a short runway, lol. So I made a couple of attempts, extending my base and final legs and finally got it down on the runway. I did run out of room at the very end and because the concrete runway is brand new there is still a large shoulder, or curb, dropoff, whatever so I ran off it and the plane tipped onto its nose. No damage other than a slight scrape on the chin.

Post maiden flight:




11-24-2008, 11:38 PM
I installed the wire rigging to the undercarriage today. I first silver soldered the wires to the struts at the axle end, and I made each piece long enough so that I could pull it tight through the fuselage end and hold it while soldering. It came out okay. Not as tight as I would like but good enough for guv'mint work. :p>




After the maiden flight last Saturday I needed to adjust the CG forward and so I had to add some dead weight. I tried several sizes of fishing weights and finally found I needed 1.5oz to balance it where I wanted.




11-25-2008, 04:27 AM
Are those wings flat on both sides? It would make building alot simpler and cheaper if I don't need airfoil shape to fly.

11-25-2008, 07:08 AM
The wings on this model are indeed airfoil shape.

12-02-2008, 12:52 AM
I hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving!

I just finished installing the rigging to the wings. It really makes a difference in strength, even on the model. Before, when I was holding the plane up at the wingtips to check the CG the wing would bow quite a bit. Now it does not bow at all. :D

In the meantime I ordered larger wheels from Williams Bros because it just doesn't look right. And another pilot so that I can get the goggles I lost. :rolleyes:

I expect my package from Tower to arrive tomorrow, so I will make new axles and paint the wheels and mount them and then get some new photos.

12-03-2008, 05:19 AM
My package arrived today. I have painted the new wheels. I still need to make the axles. And my pilot finally has his goggles! :ws:

12-03-2008, 07:27 AM
Nice goggles! Is that a custom jobbie?

12-03-2008, 08:16 AM
Thanks. Those are the goggles that come in the Williams Bros pilot kit.

12-03-2008, 11:33 PM
I have installed the new axles and larger wheels. It looks much better now. I also took some pics trying to highlight the flying wires in the sun.

12-04-2008, 06:08 AM
Do you have room to print this engine and mount under the cowl?

12-04-2008, 06:22 AM
Wow! That is a great picture!

What about the air that is normally cooling the brushless motor? I would hate to burn it up by blocking it? :<:

12-04-2008, 07:01 AM
Wow! That is a great picture!

What about the air that is normally cooling the brushless motor? I would hate to burn it up by blocking it? :<:

Thats depends on how much load you have on the motor. The Camel you see here has no cooling holes and the motor runs cool. It has 6 nimh cell and an 11x8 prop. My Albatros has a spinner on the front and no cooling holes. The motor runs cool on 2s with 9x7 prop. Both of these planes fly close to full throtle which means there is very little extra power but just enough to get out of trouble. I only have one WW1 plane that flys on 3s but I have flown it on 2s. On 3s it fly most of the time at half throtle or less. Usally with it I take off full throtle and cut to half as soon as it is above the trees.

12-04-2008, 07:04 AM
Cut the bits out between the cylinders to allow air flow. She looks way better with the new wheels, nice one.


12-04-2008, 07:07 PM
Thanks degreen, makes sense to me.

12-05-2008, 03:39 AM
Yeah, Degreen is right. Put that radial up front and your great looking plane will be even better!!! Steve

12-05-2008, 04:14 AM
If you print the engine with a lazer printer it will be water proof. If you use an inkjet and fly in the morning when the dew is on like I do you will need to water proof the print.

12-05-2008, 05:57 AM
I used an inkjet printer for a cockpit dash, and to waterproof it I used 2" wide clear packing tape to cover it, it also gave it a stiffer finish. -Reuben

12-05-2008, 07:03 AM
I'm gonna check it out and see if it will work. Thanks guys!

12-05-2008, 01:51 PM
I used an inkjet printer for a cockpit dash, and to waterproof it I used 2" wide clear packing tape to cover it, it also gave it a stiffer finish. -Reuben

I haven't had much luck making the inkjet water proof by spraying with clear but I found covering with clear packing tape as you did works. Someone sent me a URL about a spray inkjet water proofing in England. I haven't check to see if it can be bought in the states. My wife has a photo printer that make good water proof prints but it only prints 4x6. I been using it by printing what I want in peices and putting back together on the plane.

12-05-2008, 08:37 PM
Heres one in motion that was going round (if you'll pardon the pun) RC Groups a while back.


12-06-2008, 04:41 AM
GWS orange nylon props do not like to be boiled in water. In fact they don't really like 160F water either.

I tried to dye my orange props black. The first prop I left in the pan of water till it started to boil and then turned the flame down to simmer. The prop tips curled up a bit.

Next prop I submerged into the 160 dye bath and it just barely curled the tips. It's still usable. But it did not take the dye very well. It just looks sooty.

The first prop actually turned a nice mahogany sort of brown. It would have been a real nice prop to use on a WWI plane.

12-06-2008, 06:16 PM
Kmot, try drybrushing flat brown paint over your orange props. The effect is actually pretty convincing!! Just barely have any paint in your brush. I usually brush it on a paper towel till almost all the paint is off the brush. then just start dragging the brush lengthwise down the prop blades till you get the "grain" you want. Steve

12-06-2008, 07:03 PM
Thanks for the tip, Ace. I will try that on my next orange prop. As for the current usable prop I already did a full paint job on it last night.

12-07-2008, 01:28 AM
I use brown and black marking pens to make my props look wood grain and lamanated. I don't try to make them look excate scale but just hide the orange look.

12-07-2008, 02:47 AM
Something like this?

12-07-2008, 03:20 AM
Something like this?

No, like a Sharpie

12-07-2008, 03:37 AM
No, like a Sharpie

Here is a picture of a couple of props and the Sharpies I used. Also neither plane has cooling holes in the nose.

12-07-2008, 06:57 PM
Those props look fantastic!

12-09-2008, 03:34 AM
Gorgeous '28

I have one as well. I didn't get lucky enough to land it gracefully using Maxford's suggest CoG. No huge carnage, a poke through the wing skin and a cracked cowl. A bit of clear tape and some fibreglass inside the cowl and I was back in business.

I still don't have it flying the way I want. It has a tendency to snap very violently. Unlike anything I've ever seen. It's almost as if it's trying to throw the tail in front of itself. This happens with rudder and elevator input during a turn. It really gets your attention.

If you get yours flying well I would be very interested in your throws and CG. I was also considering mixing in some rudder to the aileron inputs. I was going to program it to a switch and bring it up a few dozen mistakes high before trying it out.

Thanks for the great pix and awesome build log.


12-10-2008, 06:16 AM
Thank you for the compliments, sir! :)

12-10-2008, 08:10 PM
I just weighed my airplane, and AUW is 1 lb, 10.7 oz. Or 26.7 ounces. Or 756 grams. According to the FLY RC article this plane has a wing area of 339 sq. in. So my wing loading works out to 11.36 oz sq ft. That seems pretty reasonable to me. :)

06-02-2009, 07:39 PM
Kmot, thanks for your help. I printed many of your pictures
which should help me build the Nieuport 28. On the aileron servo box,
I guess I will just strip back some of the covering and glue the box
to the sheeting.

06-02-2009, 07:50 PM
The rectangular servo plate gets glued to some upright pieces of wood, which are then glued to the wing. Check your bag of wood parts, it should all be in there.

R Reese
06-02-2009, 08:28 PM
I just finished this plane, have not had it up yet. has anyone else had any experience with this plane? all comments are welcome. R Reese

R Reese
06-02-2009, 08:30 PM
K mot i put a eflight 400 in mine 1300 3/s ready to fly 20 oz.

07-05-2009, 02:51 AM
I like this plane and see it is 20% off for holiday weekend. I was also looking at the Albatros which was 10% off. I may have to order one! I have a Hacker A20-20L. Has anyone tried it? Is it too much for this plane?

Thank you for help.


07-05-2009, 04:28 PM
What size prop is on the Albatross?

07-05-2009, 06:20 PM
I would stay away from the Nieuport 28. It is difficult to build with such
poor instructions and is difficult to fly.

R Reese
07-05-2009, 06:55 PM
i have one not to hard to build but it is a bit-- to fly or should i say to fly slow wants to fall out of the sky

07-05-2009, 07:31 PM
I would stay away from the Nieuport 28. It is difficult to build with such
poor instructions and is difficult to fly.
Is the Jenny easier? Do you or anyone know?

07-09-2009, 05:49 PM
Hmmm, I did not think the N28 was all that difficult to fly. ????

07-09-2009, 07:08 PM
If you want a Nieuport, Eflite has one that is similar in build (and flying?) to their Jenny and SE5.

07-18-2009, 05:26 AM
I have the light tan version of the Nieuport 28. 33". So far- lzy me - the only mod has been to add a double sided profile picture of my wife for a pilot figure. She hates my planes. Now she is in the pilot's seat. I tell her she did 'really well' when I get home.
This is a very nice flying plane. If you get the CG right you can really slow it down. Mix some down elevator to high throttle and move the throttle slower to prevent zooming when cutting the throttle.

07-18-2009, 11:26 AM
She hates my planes. Now she is in the pilot's seat. I tell her she did 'really well' when I get home.

Teach her to fly and you can have a dogfight instead of a quarrel.

07-25-2009, 07:05 AM
Someone mentioned this plane having a bad snap. I agree. It will bite you if you let it. A little fiddling with the CG will help you though. I can fly this plane VERY slowly down the field with confidence. I get the snap in heavy elevator deflection. If I pull a loop too tight it will snap out at the top. I have a lot of rudder deflection for ground handling. If I use a lot of rudder in the air it does a strange inverted snap thing and heads down instantly. This plane is meant to fly in a scale-like manner. It does so incredibly well. Using the NON-scale tail wheel the ground handling is superb. Scale slow loops and slow rolls(it only rolls slow!) are really pretty.
ALL the guys at the field love watching this plane. It is THE best flying plane that I own.
For those of you tempted to add noseweight. Don't. Use a larger motor instead and throttle back. Remember 'There is No replacement for Sheer displacement'. My combo came with a Towerpro CD Rom style motor. I repositioned the shaft and mounted the motor backwardsinside the cowl. Towerpro CDRom motors seem fairly heavy but has tons of power. This plane will almost hover!!

Keep up the scale work here guys. I need to steal some ideas to dress up my plane a little before the NEAT Fair.

03-12-2010, 02:31 PM
Has anyone ordered the replacement cowl from Maxford? It if from a different manufacturer and I guess it's a little larger than the stock cowl.

I've enjoyed flying this plane over time.

03-13-2010, 12:50 AM
I got a replacement for mine from Lazertoyz.com early on after I bought it from them. The cowl is easy to fix if you aren't missing pieces. I used metal foil tape, the kind duct workers use. It is fairly heavy and you kind of mold it into the inside of the cowl shape I wicked a little thin CA into the cracks afterwards. It has the benefit of holding the pieces together if you do it again. Squeeze them back into shape again.

04-10-2010, 05:01 AM
Export, Regarding your earlier post on the Nieuport snapping or twisting or doing the crazy twist to inverted outside somethings on just rudder input..... did I get it right?

My Nieuport 28 has some really bad hbits if you give it too much rudder. Use lots of expo. Probably all of it ! That way you get great ground steering and the ability toswing the nose around quick-if you have to in an emergency-. My plane came with a 3S1300 that is really quite heavy for a battery of that size but the plane needs it for nose weight. It is about 2/3 the size of a 3S2100 and just as wide and thick.

One of us should get a video of the plane doing it's signature 'trick' ! maybe one of the aeronautical engineers can tell us what it is doing and one of the crack pilots here can tell us what it is called in 'plane' English !

I kill me.

04-10-2010, 05:53 AM
This pair was at NEAT 2009 last September. I'm not much in the scale detail dept. My only add to the Nieuport was a double-sided profile pic of my wife as pilot. I copied it out an unrelated pic. It was a good jab. She, for the most part, hates my planes!
She liked it a little better when I used the PC to whiten her teeth up .

The Spit(39.5" G.Planes combat model) had a 4S 4900 and still has a Hacker A-30 12XL. The battery has changed to the common 3S 2100 variety that I also had. It flew at NEAT with the 4S monster. It was the only 4S I had. The Spit did about 500 mph scale speed. White knuckle ride. I couldn't fly more than about 3 minutes. It required so much concentration and landings were very fast.

04-10-2010, 07:06 AM
Thanks for the confirmation. I may be able to get some video but it really is kind of scary when it happens.

The plane torques violently and the prop+prop adapter is really stressed.


04-10-2010, 04:05 PM
Yeah it is some wierd and violent outside snap into an inverted spin. Reduce throws or add tons of expo.

11-10-2011, 03:50 AM
I know this is an old thread, but I just ordered this model. Can't wait to do some custom work on it. Great work here!

11-10-2011, 04:15 AM
You'll love it. Mine bit the dust at the NEAT Fair in NY this last Sept. I flew it during the mass warbird launch on Friday. 50 or so warbirds all up at one time. I got cut in half by a fast moving something that I think also made it to the ground in pieces. I have a pair of Williams Bros. wheels with no home now.

If you have enough rough landings then you will be looking for some wheels. I think they are the 2.5 " Williams' Bros. Heavier but so much nicer than the plastic that comes with the arf.

11-10-2011, 04:30 AM
I'm wondering how it flies?

11-10-2011, 04:36 AM
Can't wait to work on this model

11-10-2011, 04:37 AM
Hope to get the CG right.

11-11-2011, 01:22 AM
I found the plane to be fairly forgiving. The wings can eventually warp a little with changes in moisture etc. but it still flew well even then. After 2 years I really had no idea what the wing incidences were supposed to be. I just made everything look symetrical and had washout on the upper wing.
Use low rates on rudder except to taxi. It is EXTREMELY sensitive to large rudder deflection. Take it WAY up high and give it full rudder and you will see what I mean. Be prepared. You will probably be in an inverted spin.....
Balanced properly it will cruise slowly past you and looks so nice.

I programmed in some elevator to throttle compensation. A little down elev.as the throttle advanced. Trimmed to fly level at lower throttle settings.

Great luck !

11-11-2011, 02:16 AM
Thanks Al. Really looking forward to it. I love WWI warbirds. I'm pretty new to RC. I have been mostly doing elec. coversions on Guillows and Dumas kits with some success. My 20" J-3 conversion turned out well. She's flies great on 3ch, but I have to wait for dead calm to get her out. My first plane was a PZ Micro Corsair. Yeah, 30 secs Smash, but eventually did get some time on it before the final smash. It's guts are in the 20" J-3. I recently bought a 28" EPO J-3 from HobbyKing and have been learning on it. A nose rebuild later and I'm getting the hang of it. I also have a 24" Guillows Cessna build going on and a 24" Guillows laser cut Thomas Morse on the shelf. I plan to take my time on the Nieuport 28 and get some more experience before she gets the maiden. Thanks again, Curtis

11-11-2011, 08:27 AM
Hi Curtis,

You are aware, I presume, that the subject model of this thread has been superceded and the small N28 that Maxford now sells is an entirely new and different model? :D

If in fact you have the all creme colored, older version than what has been posted in this thread should be helpful to you. I only flew mine on one day, actually. I posted about the maiden in this thread somewhere. As I recall it flew well enough but I needed to make some adjustments to the CG and control throws. I have never flown it again, it just hangs from the ceiling of my shop, looking good like a static scale model. :p>

11-11-2011, 04:59 PM
The one I ordered is the discontinued 33" model. Which I believe is the one you have here.

05-18-2015, 04:18 PM
Got a bud who has one.

MAKE 100% sure it's CG is nose heavy for first flight!!!

You must use rudder and ailerons for turns, to keep the nose from dropping.

Has a nasty snap to it if you let it slow down too much.

And like most you need to fly it all the way to the ground, too slow and it tends to nose over.

You are so right! Had a Nieuport 28 that crashed after nose weight fell off! I had 5 perfect flights before that. I'm going to use lead shot in the cowl so I don't have that problem on next plane! Also going to epoxy lead weights inside engine box close to the firewall.

05-18-2015, 05:59 PM
You are so right! Had a Nieuport 28 that crashed after nose weight fell off! I had 5 perfect flights before that. I'm going to use lead shot in the cowl so I don't have that problem on next plane! Also going to epoxy lead weights inside engine box close to the firewall.

Its a really old thread ... but no worries ...

Here's my N28 from the 1980's ... I placed 8th in Southern England Scale with her .... from the OK Models, Pilot Model Co kit ...

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/nluther/Models/Old%20models/NIEUPO1-avatar.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/nluther/media/Models/Old%20models/NIEUPO1-avatar.jpg.html)

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/nluther/Models/Old%20models/nieuport28-2.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/nluther/media/Models/Old%20models/nieuport28-2.jpg.html)

Merco 60 Glow motor, JR Propo radio ...

An absolute pig on the ground !! But that's due to the very short nose to wheel distance and long tail arm on her. Ground looping and tip dragging was everytime ! Except the day of competition !!

I have the plans for her ... one day I might build another ... 'sucker for punishment !' ....

But a beautiful looking model ... flies superb ... but oh that ground handling !!