|
Originally Posted by philipa_240sx
(Post 669296)
Lipo chargers follow the same rule as radios, buy the best you can afford. A few things you will want to look for:
- Ability to select the charge rate. Most Lipo batteries are charged at the same rate (or lower) than thier capacity: 1500mAh = 1500mA or 1.5A charge rate. - Built in cell balancer. It will aid in properly charging your batteries and extend thier life. - You will also need a 12VDC power supply for home charging. If you haven't already noticed, most chargers are powered by 12VDC so they are suitable for charging in the field via a car battery. The XCharger B6 and GTPower P4 would meet these criteria. You can purchase the 12VDC power supply from HeadsUPRC as well. The prop saver I mentioned above comes with a rubber O-ring to attach the prop. Nothing else is required:
Originally Posted by mumblinaviator
(Post 669297)
Go with the GT Power, or the X Charger. I haven't tried the GT Power, but if it's listed on HURC, i can only imagine it'll work well.
The Power up balance charger will work, however it'll take many many hours to charge a battery of the capacity you're looking to buy. I own the X Charger, and have Zero complaints. It can do all the things Philipa mentioned. EDIT* It looks like Both chargers have those capabilities And thanks for the answer 'bout the prop. |
Either charger will work. The less expensive one will be easier to learn, ultimately less capable and give less information.
The X-charger comes in a LOT of variations and names. I have one called the Accucel-6. It has a LOT of followers due to the low price and it's options but it's not the easiest charger on the block to learn. So, easy now or more options for more $$ later? |
Originally Posted by PaperAirplane
(Post 669305)
It seems like HURC has everything!
|
Originally Posted by mumblinaviator
(Post 669318)
That's why they're Awesome!
Which reminds me, I need to place an order soon... Indoor 3D foamy time! Re: Chargers I use a Hyperion EOS403i. Very nice charger for the money and simple to use except it only charges & balances Lipo & LiFe(A123) batteries. I don't use Ni-mh anyways. |
Thanks all. This charger is supposed to be easy and has good features. How about it? http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html
And do the T-plugs from HURC work with Deans connectors; this charger comes with Deans? |
If you read the listing on HURC, the T connectors Are compatable with Deans.
|
Originally Posted by mumblinaviator
(Post 669589)
If you read the listing on HURC, the T connectors Are compatable with Deans.
Thanks. I forgot the HURC was so helpful, and didnt consider that the info was ON THE WEB SITE. Sorry bout the dumb question:{ Anyways, that is good news! PA |
My Slow Stick has the following
Motor : AX 2308N 1100kv brushless Micro Motor ESC : TURNIGY Sentry 18amp Speed Controller Servos (you will require 2 of these) : HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Serv Battery:Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack gives me about 25 minutes of flight time. http://blogs.hari.us/archives/12-01-...tml#2009-12-08 |
Originally Posted by rhari
(Post 671171)
My Slow Stick has the following
Motor : AX 2308N 1100kv brushless Micro Motor ESC : TURNIGY Sentry 18amp Speed Controller Servos (you will require 2 of these) : HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Serv Battery:Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack gives me about 25 minutes of flight time. http://blogs.hari.us/archives/12-01-...tml#2009-12-08 Bill |
Anyways, I need a soldering iron. I asked on another thread, but would like to know any opinions here. I want a relatively inexpensive one that will last me. I was recommended this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.d...874~r.83936938 What do you guys think? It wish I could get one for a better price, but I am not sure if there is anything available. PA |
Originally Posted by PaperAirplane
(Post 671188)
Anyways, I need a soldering iron. I asked on another thread, but would like to know any opinions here. I want a relatively inexpensive one that will last me. I was recommended this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1874~r.83936938 What do you guys think? It wish I could get one for a better price, but I am not sure if there is anything available. PA 220 volts AC (though some sort of 115V transformer can be bought for it ????) Incorrect temperature reading (too high, probably heater temp, not tip temp) Wattage equivalent probably closer to 30 watts instead of 60 watts Bill |
Yeah, that's a bit exotic... and overkill for what you need. :roll:
All you need is a simple 25W soldering iron. There are lots out there for less than $15. Just look a bit harder: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25HK...753268&sr=8-13 You should be able to find something similar at any hardware store, etc. And save yourself the shipping costs! |
If you have a local Radio Shack for 12dollars or so you can get a switchable 15 / 30 watt soldering iron they are vewry good dual rates for small and large projects.
|
Originally Posted by Sir Raleigh
(Post 671196)
Did you read the reviews?
220 volts AC (though some sort of 115V transformer can be bought for it ????) Incorrect temperature reading (too high, probably heater temp, not tip temp) Wattage equivalent probably closer to 30 watts instead of 60 watts Bill
Originally Posted by philipa_240sx
(Post 671261)
Yeah, that's a bit exotic... and overkill for what you need. :roll:
All you need is a simple 25W soldering iron. There are lots out there for less than $15. Just look a bit harder: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25HK...753268&sr=8-13 You should be able to find something similar at any hardware store, etc. And save yourself the shipping costs! Hows this: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-7945-/21-7945 or for a bit more: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-21-7950-/21-7950 Thanks to both of you for helping out a newbie like me, PA |
You really don't need a fancy temperature controlled soldering iron. It's like using a surgeon's scalpel to peel potatoes... yes it's accurate, but it's still a potato.
What's more important is producing clean solder joints. This requires practice and proper technique. Something my electronics lab prof used to beat into my head... They would have us unsolder and re-solder hundreds of components from an old circuit board as practice. |
So the first one would be my best bet then? Like with everything else, practice makes perfect!
Thanks for all of the help, PA By the way I love the analogy! |
I would suggest the one I mentioned. Keep the wattage low... 25-35W maximum is plenty for light work without overheating the components.
My personal use soldering iron is a Weller WP25... it's 15+ yrs old now. I also have a soldering iron stand and keep a few spare tips on hand. But with proper care and use, a tip should last a very long time. A few other sundry items you need (I provided examples from amazon.com, but you can purchase these elsewhere) - Stand http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SH1-Sol...ef=pd_sim_hi_5 - Acid free (rosin) flux core electronics solder, lead free http://www.amazon.com/Flo-Temp-Lead-...sr=8-1-catcorr - Vacuum style de-soldering pump in case you have to pull apart/de-solder a connection. http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-DESOLDERING-PUMP/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 |
Originally Posted by philipa_240sx
(Post 671417)
I would suggest the one I mentioned. Keep the wattage low... 25-35W maximum is plenty for light work without overheating the components.
My personal use soldering iron is a Weller WP25... it's 15+ yrs old now. I also have a soldering iron stand and keep a few spare tips on hand. But with proper care and use, a tip should last a very long time. A few other sundry items you need (I provided examples from amazon.com, but you can purchase these elsewhere) - Stand http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SH1-Sol...ef=pd_sim_hi_5 - Acid free (rosin) flux core electronics solder, lead free http://www.amazon.com/Flo-Temp-Lead-...sr=8-1-catcorr - Vacuum style de-soldering pump in case you have to pull apart/de-solder a connection. http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-DESOLDERING-PUMP/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=pd_cp_hi_3 Does it plug directly into the wall? I see that many other irons have a little "box" that go with them, with the temperature control know. Is that a transformer, because the temperature needs to be controlled on those? Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this subject; all this is very interesting and new to me. PA |
Originally Posted by PaperAirplane
(Post 671580)
Does it plug directly into the wall? I see that many other irons have a little "box" that go with them, with the temperature control know. Is that a transformer, because the temperature needs to be controlled on those?
The larger units you mention have a base which houses a thermostat and a power supply (usually 24VAC). |
Hey guys,
St. Nicholas' feast day is today, and being a Ukrainian Catholic it is a tradition to get the presents today. Anyways, I got the Slow Stick kit, but I have to order all of the other parts, like motor, esc, etc. One question, Is the plastic wing reinforcement necessary, or does packing tape do the job? I found a youtube video by mojohobbies about assembling it and I think I will follow that. PA EDIT: Can I use regular scotch tape for the hinges? |
The plastic wing reinforcement is necessary to get the correct dihedral angle (unless you want to change the angle for some reason) and adds strength to the wing without having to add a CF spar.
If you just unfold the wing halves and glue them together you'll end up with WAY too much dihedral. The AUW of my SS including camera is right at 34 oz (964 g) and flies just fine with only the plastic wing reinforcement. Bill |
I epoxy the halves together, blend in the seam with lite weight spackle and put a strip of ½ oz fiberglass cloth and water based clear polyurethane over that. Works out to about 30 degrees dihedral that way, flies very well.
Most any tape will work for hinges. I used self adhesive monokote on my last one. |
Originally Posted by Sir Raleigh
(Post 673343)
The plastic wing reinforcement is necessary to get the correct dihedral angle (unless you want to change the angle for some reason) and adds strength to the wing without having to add a CF spar.
If you just unfold the wing halves and glue them together you'll end up with WAY too much dihedral. The AUW of my SS including camera is right at 34 oz (964 g) and flies just fine with only the plastic wing reinforcement. Bill
Originally Posted by Gohmer
(Post 673351)
Most any tape will work for hinges. I used self adhesive monokote on my last one.
|
Originally Posted by PaperAirplane
(Post 673401)
OK thanks, I will use Scotch Packaging tape;-)
One of the best hinge tapes is 3M Blenderm medical tape. Your LHS will either sell Blenderm by the roll or you can find it re-packaged under the Dubro name. |
23 Attachment(s)
OK, I finished about 2/3 today, in a few hours. Here are the pics.
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:59 AM. |
Powered by: vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 2023 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.