One final suggestion, start reading the slow stick threads. There are lots of great tips about construction, reinforcing the wing, setup, etc.

Ok, I will. I noticed on I wrote that I would use the 1170 prop; I meant to say 1147, like you suggested.

Will let you know how it ends up.

The 2410-09Y and 1147 prop is a proven setup. The SS will take off in 5ft or less then climb steeply out. Makes the stock EPS300 look weak by comparison. You will really enjoy it.

One question:

Do you have to cover the bottom of the SS wing?

No, but you can cover it. To do so improves the handling in wind (a bit), BUT you must make the front and back of the wing the same height. If not it balloons (noses up) under power badly.

You give up the extreme floaty feel in light conditions - assuming you haven't already succumbed to grotesque amount of motor and battery.

Thanks, fly. This will be a trainer, so it will fly slowly if I keep the throttle down.

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...o--dsh-/Detail


I noticed that I would need a t-connector for the ESC, and I think that the combo above would be a good idea then. If I were to select a charger from HURC, then which one would be the best?

Would I need anything else to connect the prop to the shaft?

Lipo chargers follow the same rule as radios, buy the best you can afford. A few things you will want to look for:

- Ability to select the charge rate. Most Lipo batteries are charged at the same rate (or lower) than thier capacity: 1500mAh = 1500mA or 1.5A charge rate.
- Built in cell balancer. It will aid in properly charging your batteries and extend thier life.
- You will also need a 12VDC power supply for home charging. If you haven't already noticed, most chargers are powered by 12VDC so they are suitable for charging in the field via a car battery.

The XCharger B6 and GTPower P4 would meet these criteria. You can purchase the 12VDC power supply from HeadsUPRC as well.

The prop saver I mentioned above comes with a rubber O-ring to attach the prop. Nothing else is required:

http://www.headsuprc.com/catalog/568a_1_1278_1.JPG

Go with the GT Power, or the X Charger. I haven't tried the GT Power, but if it's listed on HURC, i can only imagine it'll work well.

The Power up balance charger will work, however it'll take many many hours to charge a battery of the capacity you're looking to buy.

I own the X Charger, and have Zero complaints. It can do all the things Philipa mentioned.

EDIT* It looks like Both chargers have those capabilities

...

Thanks guys! I think I will get the X-Charger. It seems like HURC has everything!

And thanks for the answer 'bout the prop.

Either charger will work. The less expensive one will be easier to learn, ultimately less capable and give less information.
The X-charger comes in a LOT of variations and names. I have one called the Accucel-6. It has a LOT of followers due to the low price and it's options but it's not the easiest charger on the block to learn.
So, easy now or more options for more $$ later?

That's why they're Awesome!

Agreed! I really like how Jeff stands behind his stuff.

Which reminds me, I need to place an order soon... Indoor 3D foamy time!

Re: Chargers

I use a Hyperion EOS403i. Very nice charger for the money and simple to use except it only charges & balances Lipo & LiFe(A123) batteries. I don't use Ni-mh anyways.

Thanks all. This charger is supposed to be easy and has good features. How about it? http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

And do the T-plugs from HURC work with Deans connectors; this charger comes with Deans?

If you read the listing on HURC, the T connectors Are compatable with Deans.

Thanks. I forgot the HURC was so helpful, and didnt consider that the info was ON THE WEB SITE. Sorry bout the dumb question:{

Anyways, that is good news!

PA

My Slow Stick has the following

Motor : AX 2308N 1100kv brushless Micro Motor
ESC : TURNIGY Sentry 18amp Speed Controller
Servos (you will require 2 of these) : HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Serv
Battery:Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack gives me about 25 minutes of flight time.

http://blogs.hari.us/archives/12-01-...tml#2009-12-08

You forgot to list the prop. That will make all the difference in the world on how well and long the plane flies.

Bill

Anyways, I need a soldering iron. I asked on another thread, but would like to know any opinions here. I want a relatively inexpensive one that will last me. I was recommended this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.d...874~r.83936938

What do you guys think? It wish I could get one for a better price, but I am not sure if there is anything available.

PA

Did you read the reviews?

220 volts AC (though some sort of 115V transformer can be bought for it ????)
Incorrect temperature reading (too high, probably heater temp, not tip temp)
Wattage equivalent probably closer to 30 watts instead of 60 watts

Bill

Yeah, that's a bit exotic... and overkill for what you need. :roll:

All you need is a simple 25W soldering iron. There are lots out there for less than $15. Just look a bit harder:

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WSB25HK...753268&sr=8-13

You should be able to find something similar at any hardware store, etc. And save yourself the shipping costs!

If you have a local Radio Shack for 12dollars or so you can get a switchable 15 / 30 watt soldering iron they are vewry good dual rates for small and large projects.

Yeah. I was told by another member that it had worked for them. I guess I should read the reviews more carefully next time:roll:.


That Weller could definitely work, but...

Hows this:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-7945-/21-7945
or for a bit more:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/TENMA-21-7950-/21-7950

Thanks to both of you for helping out a newbie like me,
PA

You really don't need a fancy temperature controlled soldering iron. It's like using a surgeon's scalpel to peel potatoes... yes it's accurate, but it's still a potato.

What's more important is producing clean solder joints. This requires practice and proper technique. Something my electronics lab prof used to beat into my head... They would have us unsolder and re-solder hundreds of components from an old circuit board as practice.

So the first one would be my best bet then? Like with everything else, practice makes perfect!

Thanks for all of the help,
PA

By the way I love the analogy!

I would suggest the one I mentioned. Keep the wattage low... 25-35W maximum is plenty for light work without overheating the components.

My personal use soldering iron is a Weller WP25... it's 15+ yrs old now. I also have a soldering iron stand and keep a few spare tips on hand. But with proper care and use, a tip should last a very long time.

A few other sundry items you need (I provided examples from amazon.com, but you can purchase these elsewhere)

- Stand
http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-SH1-Sol...ef=pd_sim_hi_5

- Acid free (rosin) flux core electronics solder, lead free
http://www.amazon.com/Flo-Temp-Lead-...sr=8-1-catcorr

- Vacuum style de-soldering pump in case you have to pull apart/de-solder a connection.
http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-DESOLDERING-PUMP/dp/B0002KRAAG/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

Again, thank you so much. I guess that will be my shopping list, then.

Does it plug directly into the wall? I see that many other irons have a little "box" that go with them, with the temperature control know. Is that a transformer, because the temperature needs to be controlled on those? Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this subject; all this is very interesting and new to me.

PA

Yup, those smaller irons plug directly into the wall. On cheaper models, there is no temperature control. The Weller WP series (the one I have), has a tiny thermostat built into the iron itself to maintain the tip at 750 degF. This helps extend the life of the tip and prevents the overheating of components when soldering.

The larger units you mention have a base which houses a thermostat and a power supply (usually 24VAC).

Hey guys,

St. Nicholas' feast day is today, and being a Ukrainian Catholic it is a tradition to get the presents today.

Anyways, I got the Slow Stick kit, but I have to order all of the other parts, like motor, esc, etc.

One question,
Is the plastic wing reinforcement necessary, or does packing tape do the job?

I found a youtube video by mojohobbies about assembling it and I think I will follow that.

PA

EDIT:
Can I use regular scotch tape for the hinges?

The plastic wing reinforcement is necessary to get the correct dihedral angle (unless you want to change the angle for some reason) and adds strength to the wing without having to add a CF spar.

If you just unfold the wing halves and glue them together you'll end up with WAY too much dihedral.

The AUW of my SS including camera is right at 34 oz (964 g) and flies just fine with only the plastic wing reinforcement.

Bill

I epoxy the halves together, blend in the seam with lite weight spackle and put a strip of ½ oz fiberglass cloth and water based clear polyurethane over that. Works out to about 30 degrees dihedral that way, flies very well.

Most any tape will work for hinges. I used self adhesive monokote on my last one.

Thanks. I will use the plastic reinforcement, then.


OK thanks, I will use Scotch Packaging tape;-)

If you use tape, inspect it regularly. It will start to crack and fail over time. I barely managed to land my Slo-V after a hinge failed... it had almost completely detached! ::o

One of the best hinge tapes is 3M Blenderm medical tape. Your LHS will either sell Blenderm by the roll or you can find it re-packaged under the Dubro name.

OK, I finished about 2/3 today, in a few hours. Here are the pics.

I did not use the plastic for the wing dihedral by accident did not see it in the instructions untill after epoxy was set on wing and have had no problem with the wings or the flying characteristics. On the SS it seems to not matter much the few degrees that the plastic thing makes. I have had a few really hard crashes and had no wing problems usiong the stock power system when I get the brushless in then that may be a different story!! :D:D

Since I am already ordering from HobbyPartz, I was wondering if it would be worth it to get one of their cheap batteries:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/83p-2200mah-3s1p-111-20c.html

Would it be possible to change the connector to the t-plug?

Although it's true you can do it that way, using the plastic wing brace is quicker, sets the dihedral more accurately, and adds support to the wing without going to all the trouble of setting the dihedral yourself, fiddling around with Epoxy and adding unnecessary weight.

Just cut it out and slap it on with double back tape or a light coating of the GWS glue.

Bill

^ Agreed. Use it for now.

In the future you can get a 2nd wing and leave out all the dihedral, add ailerons, and it'll make for a great aileron trainer.

Ok, I already did, as you can see from the pics. It worked well with the GWS glue.

Any comments on the battery from Hobyparts?

Thanks,
PA