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-   -   Build Thread for Rhythm 3D Bipe (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34772)

pstrdenver 05-20-2008 09:03 PM

Build Thread for Rhythm 3D Bipe
 
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Okay here's my first attempt at a "Build Thread".

I got my brown box today, happy me! It came double boxed and unharmed through Fed Ex. (5 day delivery as stated upon purchase.)

Opened the box to find things loosely packaged but not damaged at all.

Unpacked everything to do a quick inventory.

pstrdenver 05-20-2008 09:13 PM

First things first
 
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Step one: mount motor.

This was a little labor intensive due to the fact that I am using a off brand bell motor.

I first had to elongate the holes on the provided motor mount to line up with the holes on my motor.

Next I used some foam safe CA to harden the balsa firewall in the fuse.

And then using spacers to allow some room for the nuts on the bolts I attached the motor/motor mount to the firewall with some wood screws of my own. (the ones provided were not long enough since I added spacers to clear the nuts)

Note: The instruction book will later tell you to add washers to the mount to give right thrust and down thrust if needed. I went ahead and did this in anticipation of needing it later.

pstrdenver 05-20-2008 09:21 PM

Next...
 
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Well with the motor mounted, onto other things; the stab and elevator.

The kit comes with some this carbon fiber strips that have to be cut to length and epoxied onto the beveled edge of the elevator and onto the trailing edge of the horizontal stab.

Note: Instead of sanding the bevel into the elevator I chose to use an exacto knife and just cut the edge at an angle.

After gluing in the carbon strips I inserted the elevator and then the stab in order to glue the stab in place with CA.

Note: I used a quilters square to ensure that the stab was square with the fuse.

pstrdenver 05-20-2008 09:23 PM

thats all I have time for now...I have to go to the office to offer marital counseling to people twice my age. Being a pastor can be tricky sometimes.:<:

pstrdenver 05-20-2008 10:25 PM

While I wait for my couple to arrive I'll add a bit more.

I have noticed rather quickly that the printed color on the foam is very fragile and peels very easily. It almost seems to be an acrylic ink that has been silk screened on. Not sure what can be done to keep the "decals" in tact other than just using some extreme caution when sliding pieces in and working with them.

Also the fuse, though pre-built, has some joints that need to be re-glued or glued for the first time. Not a big deal but something to look for so that your plane doesn't fall apart on you during your maiden voyage. Mine showed weak spots where the formers tabbed into the fuse walls and where the bottom foam plate curved up to meet the motor.

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 02:11 PM

Can you say RUDDER?
 
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Next in line was to install the rudder. This thing is huge! Again I did not sand the bevel as per the instruction book but instead cut it into the edge with my exacto knife. Once that was finished time to tape it onto the fuse. Remember to deflect the surfaces when taping, don't ask me how I know.

I also wanted to add a photo to show what the paint looks like when "chipped".

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 02:20 PM

More Carbon Fiber Strips
 
3 Attachment(s)
To prepare the wings you must first cut the ailerons off of them. They come tabbed in three places. Be sure to make flush the edge on the wing and the aileron, removing all signs of the tabs.

Once they are cut off cut the Carbon fiber strips to length and epoxy the strips onto the trailing edge of each wing.

Note: You can tell which ailerons go with which wing by noticing that the bottom wing has the sgaure hole in the center for the servo and the bottom ailerons have the notch pre-cut in them for the control horns.

Once the epoxy has dried, tape the ailerons onto their corresponding wing, again making sure to deflect the surfaces when taping them to ensure "room to move".

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 02:31 PM

Buffalo Wild Wings...
 
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With the ailerons on time to assemble the wings to the fuse. This is where I'm getting nervous, gotta get these buggers square and flat. I dry fitted the bottom wing, wing struts, and top wing checking to see if they naturally fitted square and to my surprise they did. Whew! was that a load off.

Put the bottom wing on the work surface face up, add some CA around the tab holes where the fuse will sit and seat the fuse onto the wing. Once seated add a bead of CA around the tabs that enter into the wing making a good bond. Use a triangle or in my case a square to kanke sure the wing is perpendicular to the fuse at all times.

Once this step is complete it will be time to add the doublers. The instructions call for two small doublers on each half of the bottom wing. Just CA these on.

Note: Pay attention to the direction of the elongated holes when gluing. The wing doublers are parallel to the leading edge while the large doublers for the vertical struts are parallel to the leading vertical edge.

Both sides of the wing has doublers? Good. Now add the large ones to the struts, one on each side of the two struts.

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 02:49 PM

Strutting my stuff.
 
2 Attachment(s)
When I glued my struts on, remembering that my dry fit was a natural square I chose to dry fit the top wing on to hold the struts in place while the CA cured. (I don't use kicker) When they dried I flipped the whole thing over, (Top wing down, bottom wing up) and glued the top wing onto the fuse and the struts onto the top wing. Again making sure to keep everything square.

Now looking at the top wing I can see the same holes that need the doublers like the bottom wing. I CA'd these on and let dry. My fingers at this point are covered in glue. Fat fingers and small doublers don't mix!

After the top and bottom wings and struts were all dry and secure, doublers were in place It was time to add the carbon fiber support rods. This was a little tricky. You have to really line up the doublers in the previous steps to make this step easy but of course that just isn't my style. After some prodding and poking they fianally go through and I CA'd them in.

Note: After the support rods are in then add the doublers on top of the top wing and on the bottom of the bottom wing. The extreme angle of the rod dictates where these last doublers go.

Here's the pic of one side done.

I used side cutters to remove the extra carbon rod.

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 02:57 PM

Feel free to join in and add comments. I feel all alone!:sad::silly:

Mike Parsons 05-21-2008 04:47 PM

Sorry..I have been sitting back reading.


Looks great. Did I miss who makes the kit?

aviatordave 05-21-2008 06:29 PM

Looks good. Are you planning on outdoor and/or indoor flying?

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 07:23 PM


Originally Posted by Mike Parsons (Post 410656)
Sorry..I have been sitting back reading.


Looks great. Did I miss who makes the kit?

Sports Flyer makes the kit but I bought it off of Hobby People's site.

pstrdenver 05-21-2008 07:25 PM


Originally Posted by aviatordave (Post 410691)
Looks good. Are you planning on outdoor and/or indoor flying?

Outdoor. I have no indoor venue available to me here in Granger/South Bend area.

When I finish the buil I'll post my electronics used and readouts from my Wattmeter.

Stay tuned, more to come!

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 04:52 PM

Servos too big or hole too small?
 
5 Attachment(s)
Next thing to do was install rudder and elevator servos. I decided on HS-55 all around. The hole for the two servos was too small so after measuring twice I cut once.

CA'd the servos in and onto the next step...control horns. I had to cut the control horn bases to clear the hinge point on the rudder and on the elevator. Exacto knife or hedge trimmers will do this easily. Installed them and CA's the back plate on.

Using the left over pieces of Carbon rod I made the control rods for the two controls I just put the horns on. Two lengths of piano wire is included in the kit to complete this as well as some shrink wrap. The Z bends I did with needle nose pliers.

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 05:01 PM

Ailerons and Landing Gear
 
4 Attachment(s)
After getting all the arms in and the servos centered I skipped ahead and installed the aileron servo and aileron horns. I used some control rods I already had instead of making some as the instructions call for.

On to the landing gear. Using the large doublers I CA'd them onto the corresponding holes on the fuse and bottom of the bottom wing.

Note:I did not glue the doublers onto the top of the bottom wing yet. I slid them onto the landing gear arms after I slid them through the wing so that I can glue them down after the gear is secured in the fuse and the wing. I learned this lesson from the cross braces in the wings.

The gear axle clears the bottom wing by 1 3/4 inch. Making sure the wheels were straight I glued everything in.

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 05:05 PM

Hardest step so far...
 
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CA on both sides of the lite ply base of the tail wheel, push into foam slot and the hardest step is over. Whew!

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 05:19 PM

Seriously, I really dread the next step.
 
3 Attachment(s)
I put off the aileron linkage until the very end. After building a previous bipe I found this step to be nerve racking especially since there is no adjustment after the glue dries. Oh well, it has to be done.

Using two 2 inch or so pieces of the carbon rod supplied I measured and glued them onto the bottom of the top wing ailerons with CA. (plane is upside down on the table) Measured and glued two more pices on the bottom of the bottom wings.

Note: leave 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch overhang on the aileron linkage rods.

After gule dried i added two inch piece of heat shrink onto the overhang of each rod that I just glued on. Heat shrink to rod and add drop of CA for extra security and hold.

Note: Be extremely careful when heat the heatshrink. Cover the aileron with something so that the faom does not melt.

When all was dry again using measured lengths of carbon rod I linked top wing and bottom wing together making sure that both ailerons were still in the nuetral position. The link rod slides into the heatshrink tubing on the top aileron abd the bottom. Heatshrink and glue and repeat for the other side. DONE!

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 05:22 PM

Power up!
 
1 Attachment(s)
I'll soon add the last post with all the motor, esc, and RX specs and readings. It was about 1:30 am last night when the prop went on, signaling the last step for my Rhythm Bipe build.

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 05:29 PM

Wheel stops...on a dime.
 
Oh yeah...I took the wheel covers off. They were not perfectly straight and I was afraid they would hinder straight tracking. These were the wheel stops but since they are not going to on the axle does anyone have a suggestion what I could use as new wheel stops?

aviatordave 05-22-2008 06:08 PM

ahh man. That LG looks similiar to the flat outs. How does it feel (strong?) My RCU bipe had similiar LG and was plagued with problems.

What is your opinion on the stock linkages and hardware?

shotgunsmitty 05-22-2008 07:34 PM

Dave, if the Pastor doesn't mind, I'll throw in my opinion. I, too had problems with the LG on my RCU Bipe. Here's what I did...after the first landing (which subsequently ripped holes into the wing because the gear folded back) I took some black thread and secured the carbon landing gear strut to the carbon wing leading edge reinforcement bar. A drop of CA later, concrete...never had another problem.

Now to stay on topic, I found the gear to be much better on this bipe. The gear is lower to the ground, and the center of gravity while on the ground is a bit further back from the main landing gear wheels, which help this one taxi without those lovely nose-overs that the rcu bipe did all the time, even while taxiing on ice! The gear on the Rhythm is much more stout (although I did break the carbon fiber rod....slammed it in a door!), too.

It feels very strong. It's a good stable plane in my opinion, and flies well. It's nowhere near as insane in the air as the RCU Bipe, but it's a nice gentle flyer that will do the moves you give it.

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 07:56 PM

the gear feels strong, my fear is that all the force of a hard landing will rip the wing or the fuse. The doublers will probably relieve some of that though.

Linkages seem to be pretty good. The two eyelets that keep the rods straight will definately help. I think the hardware is pretty good for the price. (I expected complete junk to be honest with you when I say the price was $14.99)

The only real complaint I have so far (prior to flying) is the fuse was not glued on all joints very well. a little TLC on my part fixed that.

Hope everyone enjoyed my feeble attempt at a build thread.

pstrdenver 05-22-2008 07:58 PM


Originally Posted by shotgunsmitty (Post 411185)
Dave, if the Pastor doesn't mind, I'll throw in my opinion. I, too had problems with the LG on my RCU Bipe. Here's what I did...after the first landing (which subsequently ripped holes into the wing because the gear folded back) I took some black thread and secured the carbon landing gear strut to the carbon wing leading edge reinforcement bar. A drop of CA later, concrete...never had another problem.


Do you have any pics to illustrate your modification? I can't see it in my head.

shotgunsmitty 05-22-2008 09:17 PM

Sure do, but this was on the RCU Bipe. Not sure you'd want me to post a pic of my ex-RCU Bipe in the Rhythm build thread. :)


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