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-   -   Polk Hobbies DC3 / C47 anyone flown? (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11838)

RSS Feed 10-27-2006 05:00 AM

Polk Hobbies DC3 / C47 anyone flown?
 
www.polkshobby.com has a C47 and DC3 that is 72" WS adn 4 pounds with two 600 motors for $100. Exact location is http://216.86.38.243/POLKS/index.asp...

More...

pval3 07-28-2009 03:23 AM

cant believe no posts on this one
 
hey guys

I saw a video in rcg under the super sale section that showed the c47 flying nicely . . very scale.

i am thinking a 2s lipo with the polk 100a esc just for good measure.

I also have a big ole astro 217 esc that I can throw in there that will handle more cells.

Phil

skiman762 07-28-2009 03:34 AM

there only 25 bucks now

http://store.polkshobby.com/scripts/...0064&conum=002

pval3 07-28-2009 04:10 AM

just picked one up
 
hey there

picked one up on the sale this am..

I am thinking of trashing the TWeenie livery and doing it in the Flagship version that is in the AA museum in Dallas!

Nitro Blast 08-02-2009 05:34 AM

I bought one... and I'm going brushless.

2 Hyperion Z3006-28's each with a Titan 30 esc.
I'll sport either a pair of the WBC batteries, or I may do the LVX 3300's I have.

I am really looking forward to his build. I'm considering some scale compliments like lights, and maybe a parachute drop, it depends on how creative I feel when I see it. I've always been a real SPOOKY fan too, she's a real beauty:

http://www.gersters.ch/images/c_47_spooky.jpg

http://www.stushepherdart.com/files/AC47Spooky_568.jpg

http://www.richard-seaman.com/Aircra...rom2oClock.jpg

http://xbradtc.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/ac-47.jpg

gramps2361 08-02-2009 01:06 PM

I tried getting one of these from polk and the tigermoth still wouldn't take my card. I still have one in my basket even though there showing out of stock have to follow along see how you folks make out with yours. Figured this would be my first big plane and sounds like they are easy flyers. Oh well positive spin I have 2 planes to finnish and one almost ready to maiden.
Hope some one does a build thread on this bird.

Bub Steve 08-02-2009 02:39 PM

I hope it ain't as Butt ugly as the photo they have,,,,,
A bit of finishing maybe needed ( But They all do I Guess),,,
I want one! bubsteve
http://store.polkshobby.com/producti...g/plk10064.jpg

pval3 08-02-2009 07:27 PM

ordered but not received
 
Went a little nuts . . three airplanes and three esc . .. .got to love a recession!

I posted a building thread over in the other rc thread . . google polk dc3 and it will come up.

Looking foreward to seeing what folks do to bring this into the "next generation".

Phil

Nitro Blast 08-05-2009 05:28 AM

My C-47 arrived today, what a beauty.

I cant believe it was $25 bucks.

Nitro Blast 08-06-2009 03:55 PM

Ok, I'm lost...

Does anyone have a clue as to how the tail wheel works? I dont get how I'm supposed to connect it up at all. No hardware, no instructions..

one_more_flight 08-06-2009 06:43 PM


Originally Posted by Nitro Blast (Post 629444)
My C-47 arrived today, what a beauty.

I cant believe it was $25 bucks.


Originally Posted by Nitro Blast (Post 629849)
Ok, I'm lost...

Does anyone have a clue as to how the tail wheel works? I dont get how I'm supposed to connect it up at all. No hardware, no instructions..

well you did say it was only 25 bucks...:) hope you figure it out i wana see that go and get some pictures of what it actually looks like

Nitro Blast 08-06-2009 07:54 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I think I'll just head to the LHS and see what he has that can solve the tail wheel problem. I will probably add another control rod to the tail wheel from the rudder servo and be done with it.


I can say however that this was the best $25 airplane I've ever bought. I like the simple and durable blow molded fuse. Its not a scale contest winner, but its a C-47 that I wanted.

http://www.Wattflyer.com/forums/atta...8&d=1249584799

http://www.Wattflyer.com/forums/atta...9&d=1249584799

gramps2361 08-06-2009 08:02 PM

That looks nice nitro tried getting one of these but my card wouldn't go through finally talked to someone at polk they apologized for the problem but it was to late the three planes that i wanted where sold out. Oh well have to enjoy what you folks post on these nice planes. That will look awesome done up with some modes like gatteling guns sticking out the side.;)

Nitro Blast 08-08-2009 12:20 AM

4 Attachment(s)
I have it flight ready. Balanced, and static trimmed.

http://www.Wattflyer.com/forums/atta...8&d=1249687057

I'm a little disappointed with the decals, but I'm going to be understanding. They are probably 10+ years old in the box! I just could not get them to stick worth anything so I'll do something else.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/atta...1&d=1249688184

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/atta...1&d=1249688184

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/atta...1&d=1249688184

one_more_flight 08-08-2009 09:46 AM


Originally Posted by Nitro Blast (Post 630372)
I'm a little disappointed with the decals, but I'm going to be understanding. They are probably 10+ years old in the box! I just could not get them to stick worth anything so I'll do something else.

you can say its like a spy plane (the less decals the better) but i would put on some 2 tone paint on the belly for orientation purpouses

pval3 08-08-2009 02:25 PM

arrived!
 
Hey guys

Got mine yesterday when I got home . . .biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig boxes!

This is the best looking arf of this type I have seen. I am completely kicking myself that I did not order an extra one for the ceiling in my office.

Mine arrived with a little shipping rash, the box had a ding in the side, ended up being in a bad spot as I have a crushed front leading edge on the left side . . about 2" worth right at the root rib...:sad:

I called polk and they were very apolgetic but explained that there are no spare parts left and no more models left to replace the one I have. They explained how best to fix the shipping damage in light of the underlying structure and I can work with that.

They also recommended a few cautions and upgrades that would make the experience better as well as the threads as a resource.

The airplane leaves a LOT of room for imagination in so far as set up and config.

It is pretty enough to hang on the ceiling as a static model as it is out of the box, the pictureon the web site is by no means indicative of what is actually in the box. It is a well built and designed model.

The weight is a little heavier than your modern speed 400 electric but in light of "generational" differences in mfg and technology, this thing was spry for its day!

I am not going to use the stock motors, I plan on upgrading to an outrunner, I have not had enought time to really dig into the forums in so far as what exactly I want or need at this point as the weight needs to be a consideration in as much as the power...the speed 600 motors are large by today's stds and their weight is in front of the CG. all / / including the folks at Polk, have said that the plane comes in tail heavy if you are using anything but a large capacity lipo. and the battery needs to be all the way in the front.

Polks said the airplane has been on the marked for 8 years . . If I had seen one of these at the field a long while ago, I would have prefered this far over the GP or esp the royal version long ago.
Phil

pval3 08-08-2009 02:31 PM

decals
 
Hey guys

Dealt with the same issue with the older Kyosho stuff.

Take 90% rubbing alchohol from your local drugstore and apply it with a clean cloth, turning often and keeping it very wet the first time.

Do the same thing again but use a dryer towel and make sure that you do not have any streaking.

Do this all over the fuselage AFTER you have assyembled the model so you get your hand grease off it too.

BEFORE you glue anything to this model . . . . . . . .

take sand paper on a dowel and very carefully stick it throught the slots on the fuselage and roughen up all the connecting surfaces before you slap glue on it! I have had tail feathers just wiggle loose from arf kyosho kits with the same type of fuselage if there is not an adequately rough surface for the glue to bond too.

You also need to remove the covering with an exacto blade under the areas that will be glued. . .glue and monocoat do not bond well as it is non porus and smoother than whale snot!

Gorilla glue will be my glue of choice too . . .. unless you use a slower epoxy, the chances of the glue not really sticking well is pretty high...

Take it from the voice of experience:Q

Bub Steve 08-08-2009 03:55 PM

Good Post'in PVAL!!! Thank's, Sounds like POLK's got good service as well , bubsteve

WWI Ace 08-08-2009 09:22 PM

You gotta post a flying video of these things guys. They look like good planes. Wished I'd have ordered one when I ordered my tripe. My tripe got to Texas with no damage and a surprise. When I got my last one 3yrs. ago it was for .25 size glow only and I coverted it to electric. This one came with a outrunner box mount up front and longer pushrods so you can move the servos farther forward. I had to add lead on the front of the first one. Steve

osprey 08-09-2009 12:35 AM

I'm going glow with my dr1
no lead needed as it has a .35 on the front and balance is good

WWI Ace 08-09-2009 01:37 PM

I hope mine doesn't need any lead either. If needed I'll put a larger battery in this one!! Steve

Nitro Blast 08-09-2009 03:44 PM


Originally Posted by pval3 (Post 630634)
Hey guys

Dealt with the same issue with the older Kyosho stuff.

Take 90% rubbing alchohol from your local drugstore and apply it with a clean cloth, turning often and keeping it very wet the first time.

Do the same thing again but use a dryer towel and make sure that you do not have any streaking.

Do this all over the fuselage AFTER you have assyembled the model so you get your hand grease off it too.

BEFORE you glue anything to this model . . . . . . . .

take sand paper on a dowel and very carefully stick it throught the slots on the fuselage and roughen up all the connecting surfaces before you slap glue on it! I have had tail feathers just wiggle loose from arf kyosho kits with the same type of fuselage if there is not an adequately rough surface for the glue to bond too.

You also need to remove the covering with an exacto blade under the areas that will be glued. . .glue and monocoat do not bond well as it is non porus and smoother than whale snot!

Gorilla glue will be my glue of choice too . . .. unless you use a slower epoxy, the chances of the glue not really sticking well is pretty high...

Take it from the voice of experience:Q

This is all good info, but the Polk C-47 does not use glue. The Rudder and Elevator are screwed in with no glue. The only place I used Epoxy, was at the wing joiners, and the instructions say you can get away with just using the tape provided if you want to take the wings back apart.



And, to get mine to balance, I used 2 each, Hyperion 3s 3300 maH packs in the nose.

pval3 08-11-2009 02:34 AM

here are some pics
 
4 Attachment(s)
WELL, FUN FUN FUN

I got to play a little when I got home from my long long trip . .

I made the mistake of saying . . .man, this is a beautiful model . . I wish I had ordered another as this would look sooo cool on the ceiling of the office!

My wife was amazed that my find was not a waste of cash . . as the pictures on the web site do not do this airplane justice!

Ya know . . she agreed with me . .. it is the perfect display size for a static model . . . 48 long and 72 span . . . the perfect boing nose! Just a great looking bird . .:rolleyes:

I am thinking that I may end up having to hang this for a while once I get it ready as it is just too pretty not too enjoy the lookie time as the reality is that anything you start flying is bound to get dinked up sooner or later . . and I still have the sherri and jenny to mess with!

Here you can see the parts . . spent 15 minutes doing some preliminary assy . . .

The level of assy is top notch and very clean. It is light in the grand scheme of things ,. . although I am not thrilled with the aluminum wing joiners...I have had way too many of these mangle my wings before they give out . .I am thinking of replicating them in 5 ply aircraft ply.

The center section of the wing had some hanger rash from our friends in Brown . . . .they have a really bad tendency here in Raleigh to dink up every airplane box I get . . I try to stay away from them but it is getting more and more difficult!

I talked to the folks over at Polks, they suggested some block material under the crushed area and recover.

It will end up being under the nacelle anyway so it is not as big a deal as I originally though, just frustrating.

There is enough room in the fuse to drive a truck . . . cavernous!

Everything went together very nicely and straight the first time...

pval3 08-11-2009 02:50 AM

moe pics
 
4 Attachment(s)
here you see some just classic angles.

This airplane just brings back some really fond memories . . .

The size is intimidating but . . .the dc3 was a real puppy as long as you respected it . . .not a "yank and bank" airplane but a smooth, very docile transport that could haul a cornucopia of stuff . .filled to the gills . . and still get it from A - B..

very nice!

The wing to fuse fit was perfect and the alignment with the horizontal and vertical stabs was right on the money!

nacels were precut and clean, not further work needed although I think an air hole in the rear or bottom.

Mounts for the motor/gear are brilliantly simple but an outrunner is going to take some work as these are beam mounts and there is not face on the nacelles/ cowls to mount the outrunner to.

The pushrods are just 1/4" sticks with ends . .nice, simple and light, especially over the distance these are pushing.

I highly recommend setting up your servos so that the UP elevator is on the pull side of the servo rather than the push side . . . this makes possibility of flex in a dive a non-issue - these control surfaces are massive in relation to your std park flier which many of you are probably coming from.

I also recommend real servos rather than the 9 gram sub micros . . use a mini at least to make sure you have enough hoomph to move that rudder and elevator . . . 9 grm will work on the ailerons but most definitely not on the rudder and elevator .. this is going to be a 6 -7 lb airplane

pval3 08-11-2009 02:58 AM

a feww more
 
3 Attachment(s)
I mentioned before that the glue joints are important. Make sure you carefully make where the covering meets up with a glue joint and remove the covering from under the joint using a very sharp exacto or razor blade. Make sure you do not press too hard or you will cut the underlying balsa and weaken the joint.

I will be using 80 grit sand paper to roughen the surface under the joints to make sure the stuff sticks! Nothing is worse than watching parts depart your aircraft in flight . . just ask Airbus! http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/im...milies/eek.gif

I think the gorilla glue will offer the best adhesion to the blow molded fuselage.

If you ahve not started with the rudder yet, be careful, the material in the fairing to the vertical stab is very thin and will split if you push too hard trying to get the plug in the slot. Take your time.


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