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-   -   Motor will not turn - just stutters (https://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73847)

Davethebluessinger 06-06-2014 10:44 PM

Motor will not turn - just stutters
Hi can anyone help me here please?

Turnigy 2836/8 1100KV (new)


HK AE-20A 30amp ESC (new)


I've read the Chinese manual and the manual under the ESC product description in the "Files" tab.
I understand the beep codes and the throttle stick position to set the functions but no matter what I do the motor will not turn - it just stutters even when the prop is attached.
Tried rebinding, switching wires over etc but still no joy!:confused:
ALSO, The ESC works OK with an Emax 1200KV motor! which points to the Turnigy motor.....

Any thoughts folks?

dahawk 06-06-2014 11:10 PM

Mmmm. I recall something similar. Have you looked at your throttle idle?

Have you tried an esc reset ? Sometimes the throttle range gets out of whack.

fhhuber 06-06-2014 11:27 PM

most likely a bad connect between ESC and motor or something preventing the motor from turning freely.

Bad connect includes arcing between the gaps in the connectors .... cover the connections with heat shrink tube.

Davethebluessinger 06-06-2014 11:27 PM

Thanks or responding guys.

All connections are freshly soldered and heat shrink wrapped.

How do I carry out a reset?
Throttle idle? TX is DX7 (old model)

dahawk 06-06-2014 11:41 PM

Turn on TX and set throttle to high. I do this with the prop off but just e cautious. Then plug in battery and wait for the beeps. as soon as they stop, move throttle to off position. See if that works.

One more thing. You might try reversing your your throttle on your TX and see what happens.


JetPlaneFlyer 06-06-2014 11:42 PM

I've seen the same thing a few times, usually it's caused by a bad solder joint on one of the ESC to motor bullets, or a bad connection between bullets. It could also be a broken or burned out wire in the motor (though if the motor is new that's not so likely). Or it could be a faulty ESC, or occasionally it's just a incompatibility between ESC and motor.

Double check the bullets, you didn't by any chance cut the motor wires before soldering on the bullets did you? If the bullets check out then to narrow it down the easiest way is to try another ESC or another motor and see where the fault is. Playing with the ESC programming is unlikely to help and if the motor stutters when you apply throttle then that proves that the Rx is receiving signal and the ESC is armed, so re-setting throttle calibration or re-binding wont help.

Davethebluessinger 06-06-2014 11:48 PM

I haven't shortened any wires.
I only fitted the Turnigy motor (70g) to add a little more nose weight as I could not achieve correct CG with the (54g) emax i had fitted previously, the emax worked perfectly with the same ESC. I'll refit that and see if it's OK, if it works alright I'll check the soldering on the motor bullets on the Turnigy motor (these were already soldered at factory)

gramps2361 06-07-2014 01:49 AM

I had a eMAX motor do the same thing found out it was the factory solder that was the problem. Cold solder joint redid it and the problem went away. Good luck with the fix.

solentlife 06-07-2014 07:40 AM


Originally Posted by dahawk (Post 949925)
Mmmm. I recall something similar. Have you looked at your throttle idle?

Have you tried an esc reset ? Sometimes the throttle range gets out of whack.

It's not throttle range as he tried esc with another motor and was fine.

My thoughts are break in wire ... hidden by insulation ... bad contact in a soldered bullet joint ......

Now as he has already tested the ESC with another motor and works fine - that indicates ESC and it's own leads are fine. It all points to the Turnigy Motor. I have had stuttering - and that's been due to lack of 3 wire contact .. so the required 3 pulse format is not received by motor ... if one wire is bad - then the motor can pulse or stutter .. it's happened to me ..

So to OP ... check those motor leads carefully ... metering is no good as usually a bad joint will still show OK on Ohms on a domestic DMM ... it needs a much more sensitive instrument. Pull the bullets ... even reheat with soldering iron and set the joint again ... make sure no insulation has got into the solder joint ...

Finally .. do a resistance check of each coil set on the motor .. pair up motor leads so that you confirm no broken stator wires ...

Does the motor spin freely by hand without power ? OK you may feel some cogging as magnets have their effect when soft iron passes ... but does the motor turn OK ..


Davethebluessinger 06-07-2014 11:12 AM

Many thanks for all of the responses I received.:D
Replaced the Turnigy motor with the emax that had previously worked ok with the ESC and now that stuttered too!
So now it had to be the ESC. Trimmed back the shrink wrap and reheated the solder joints where the wires connect to the ESC circuit board and hey presto! Bad solder on the ESC that got disturbed I guess!:roll:

gramps2361 06-07-2014 01:35 PM

Glad you found the problem and you have it fixed.
It must of been a Monday morning when the worker did the solder job.:)

Davethebluessinger 06-08-2014 05:11 PM

Or a Friday afternoon at 5 minutes to 5!!!:Q

frankmo 06-30-2014 05:20 PM

Similar problem
I had the same motor problem. Sometimes it would seem to be ok. On each flight I tried it shut down, and my spinner came down broken.

After those flights it just stuttered. I double checked everything and tried a different speed control. I decided the motor must be broken.

My motor is connected with Castle 3.5 bullet connectors. I tape these connectors. As I was untaping one of them the male connector just fell out.

I respreads the prongs on the male, and then the motor worked fine. I replaced all those connectors and all is good now.

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