Old 08-20-2012, 03:57 AM
  #9  
Bill G
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: West Central PA
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Thanks for the comments all.

Originally Posted by Murocflyer View Post
Very nice Bill! You do great work. What is your secret to cutting your wing spars identically? I can usually get about 75% of them to match and then keep trying and to get the rest to match.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Frank

PS and you are right about not enough build threads on here. But I am trying to fix that in our upcoming build clinic.
Yes we need to do whatever we can to promote building. Seems to be declining everywhere. This is a good place to do that, since that other place has made it clear they are interested in ARF/RTF advertising money. Good to see you here. I think your thread should be here also, since people miss the other forum. One good thing here is that the title actually notes scratch and kit building. At RCU, they have a scratch building forum, but it seems to be used more for technique and general discussion versus building, as it is not as specific a title.

One thing I've been doing recently is to make a light cut first, and then a full cut, so that the blade does not follow grain paths but instead follows the guide. I have issues with patience, so I have to push myself to do that. The quality contest grades of wood obviously are obviously easier to cut. This plane varies however, as at least 30% of the parts are made from glued together scrap wood versus fresh sheet, which allowed me to build the plane from a very small quantity of sheets. As for the spars, I mark the height at a number of places with a very fine pencil, before aligning a metal ruler and cutting. The ribs are cut using a thin ply or hardwood template. The template edges are coated with CA, to further harden and prevent the blade from damaging the template.

The small partial ribs at the LE required a bit of effort. It is nearly impossible to cut the flat such that they align perfectly with the other ribs, when assembling. No matter what you do by hand, one cannot quite replicate the accuracy and consistency of laser cutting. What I ended up doing was to use thick CA to lightly glue about 1/3 of the flat surface of the rib to the spar. The rib would then be checked for alignment with the other ribs. If it was out of alignment, I would literally tear the still soft glue joint and reposition the rib until the alignment was good. Note that these are very minor adjustments. At that point the joint would be glued with thin CA, which runs down the joint while only touching the bottle to one spot and not disturbing the part.

The fuse is now being covered with Microlite, which will be painted in the blue color of VH-AJM. The wings will be covered in Parklite silver.
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