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Old 06-23-2008, 10:55 AM   #1
baz49exe
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Default canopies for free- or nearly

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ID:	70160This is my first thread so please excuse errors. When I scratch built small scale fun fighters sourcing canopies and cowls was always a problem. I came up with this idea its not new, nothing is under the sun but I had not seen any reports of how to do it anywhere so thought I would share- apologies to those who know. The idea is to heat shrink an empty blown plastic pop bottle over a plug to the size required using a standard heat gun. The pics show if I can get them on here A plug ( piece of wood, balsa is easy to shape) mounted on a piece of tongued and grooved wood which has same internal diameter as pop bottle. The plug is covered in a thin layer of rubbed down car body filler paste to get the smooth finish required. A dowel is fixed onto the front to engage in the neck of the pop bottle. This prevents the bottle neck riding up over the mould as it shrinks. Place bottle right over the rig and apply heat as you would with heat shrink covering film. Allow to cool and trim to size. You have a canopy. Hope it works well for someone else I am very pleased with the results. Baz


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Old 06-23-2008, 11:59 AM   #2
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Baz, I have not seen the process with the dowel before. Great idea.
It's been a battle trying to keep the plastic from riding up over the form, I'll try this.

What size P-39 is that?

Paul
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:36 PM   #3
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Default Canopy Shaping

Hello Baz, Welcome to Wattflyer!
Thanks for posting the canopy-shaping process, I'll add it to the "Builders Links".
I have a couple of questions;
How thick does the canopy (wall) material come out? Is it the same as the bottle material, or thinner?
Have you tried any other finishing material besides auto primer?
Thanks again,
Ron
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Old 06-23-2008, 01:23 PM   #4
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Paul, It's a 38inch span all built up balsa. I'm ripping it to bits at the moment to lighten it for possible electric power. When IC I refinished it loads of times because of fuel damage. It's 1990 vintage. Baz
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Old 06-23-2008, 01:26 PM   #5
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Ron, Many thanks and great to hear from you. AS for thickness that's the beauty of it - as the plastic shrinks it actually thickens. When you push a mould through a heated sheet the opposite is true and it thins . Baz Missed the last bit . Yes what I actually use is called Isopon over here its a resin based car filler. Plastic padding is similar.
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:13 PM   #6
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Neat gadget Baz. I've heard about making canopies from soda bottles, this looks like I'm out of excuses for outfitting the next design!

Devon - I did a fair amount of flying next door to you, in Cornwall, when I was flying Nimrods out of RAF St Mawgan, near Newquay around 1990-ish. Recall venturing into Devon, but probably the western end, for a funfly on odd occasions. Sometimes miss it too...

Regards

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Old 06-23-2008, 08:21 PM   #7
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Any pics of a finished canopy?

TX | JR x9303
RW's | Vibe Fitty - Blade mSR
FW's | 64mm EDF Mirage 2000 - 64mm EDF F-5E Swiss Tiger
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:45 PM   #8
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Hi Dereck, Yes it really does work just need to be careful with the application of the heat, glad you enjoyed the old country. Flying Nimrods guess you flew over Plymouth sometimes. The Pilgrim Fathers would be amazed wouldn't they?

Hi Skunky, I knew that question was going to come up and it's on the stripped Airacobra. I'll post it anyway. This is going to be the most digusting plane ever posted. Hey that could be a new thread! Baz

postscript:- I've made a new canopy to post along with the other examples. It's late here now and dark so I'll photograph them tomorrow. Baz
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:29 AM   #9
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Hi Guys,
Here are two views of the canopy I made last night - not bad but not good as it was an old bottle that had been lying around.
Next is the original in place on my 18 year old P39. It's been stripped down to refurbish- could be the ugliest ever seen. I did see a photo of one flying in the Pacific in WW2 and with war time use it didn't look a whole lot better though.
Next two are the same canopy trimmed and fitted to my grandson's wing dragon.
It really alters the look of the plane.
Last is a plug I made from the cowl of my GWS Zero before I cut it. Reckoned I would need a replacement soon after I started flying it. How do you like the finish on the P39 Paul? Cheers Baz


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Old 06-24-2008, 11:03 AM   #10
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Baz, if you look past the multi colored paint, the finish look good.
A little acrylic paints and your in business.
The outline looks more scale than mine.

Paul
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:33 AM   #11
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Hi Paul, Yeah I think the old girl deserves a lick of paint she's given very forgiving service over many difficult years. Can't decide on acrylic which I've always used as car touch up sprays or to go for thinned model enamels. Glad you've got a P 39 I love the shape of a 39 flying past you I think its a great looking ship. Is yours plan, foam scratch built or kit? Baz
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Old 06-24-2008, 11:48 AM   #12
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Baz the acrylic paints I'm now using are from the craft department at are discount stores. They're thinned with water and work great.

My P-39 was scratch built balsa and micro lite covering.
If I remember correctly about a 43 inch wing and 28 ounces ready to fly.
Paul


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Old 06-24-2008, 05:09 PM   #13
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The P-39 looks great Paul. I really like the early colour scheme, it stands out well. I see you used film and the finish looks really tight.I guess that is the only way to really keep the weight down. My balsa and tissue covering came out significantly heavier than that but as we fly over gorse and heather common land and a dead stick landing often means attacks by thorns and branches the sheet covering has kept the wings together over the years. Now with electric power a dead stick should be a thing of the past shouldn't it.? Canopy looks crystal did you mould it? Baz.
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:36 PM   #14
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I built that when the only motor I had was a E-Flite 400 outrunner.
I wanted it large enough so I could see it, but light enough so the 400 could still pull it.

Now I'd make it a little heavier and just drop a larger cheap Asian motor in one.

The canopy is in sections, used flat sheets over a framework.

Remember I said I had problems with the lower edge of the bottle creeping back up onto the mould?
That's why I really appreciate your post.

Paul
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:22 PM   #15
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Yep got it Paul , The P39 canopy is the largest you can make out of a standard pop bottle it just fits. Buuuut as you did you could make it from a split plug in two halves and join or even have it sliding open. Course you could buy one of those big two or three litre bottles of beer or cider And suffer for the hobby. Do they sell the amber nectar like that over there.? Baz I'm not pushing you or anything but have you tried a mould with the dowel retainer yet.... Just joking lol Baz
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Old 06-24-2008, 10:27 PM   #16
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Haven't tried with the dowel yet.
But I have a new plane in development and will try it on that.
3 litre bottles?
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:54 AM   #17
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Over here you can buy larger, beer and cider in extra large blown bottles up to twice possibly three times the size of a standard pop bottle. Would make really large canopies but, and this might not be a bad thing for some applications , the plastic is generally tinted green, brown or a light aviator orange colour. Just had an idea (must keep taking the tablets) have you ever attached copper wire to the surface of the mould in the position of the canopy frame work? I bet this would work to leave an impression in the finished canopy. Have developed a bad habit of going round stores feeling pop bottles. My wife wont take me shopping now! Must explain:- checking to see if there are indented rings craftily moulded under the stick on labels. Tested one of this type bottle yesterday and guess what. When it shrinks on the mould the rings disappear as if by magic. Not a sign of them on the finished canopy. Happy flying Baz
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Old 06-25-2008, 10:22 AM   #18
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The bottles we have over here have a weird shape to the bottom.
On smaller cowls and such the bumps disappear too.

I've never see anything alcoholic in a plastic bottle over here.
My wife won't let me go shopping with her either.

But we do have a lot of 2 litre pop bottles. Lots of canopy's there.

Paul
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Old 06-26-2008, 03:59 AM   #19
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Great Idea on the heat shrink canopys using the dowel as a holder, See , A Person can sure learn a lot here on Wattflyers , Thank You Baz49exe Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 06-26-2008, 06:11 AM   #20
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Hi Chellie, Thank you, I hope its useful to you:- if you do use it I'd really like to see the results. Just thought why I used a resin body filler coat on the plug. When young and poor I used it to patch holes in my car exhaust (muffler) so knew it would stand up to heat. Also it cuts back to a very dry non sticky and very smooth surface so I hoped that it wouldn't mark the inside of the finished canopy. Cheers, Baz
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:33 AM   #21
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Thumbs up Yup...

Work GREAT for canopies and Cowls... You can scuff them lightly with very fine grit sand paper and paint them, OR if you're using a low-temp iron on covering like Solite or Econokote, you can cover them. If you don't want to see through them in the sun, scuff the inside & paint with silver spray paint. If you'd like to see a Piper Pawnee cowl done, here's a link to the thread page: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=246240&page=2
For small cowls, you can also use Dixie drink cups. They come in a variety of sizes & colors (I imagine the UK has similar plastic cups of the same, or different brand-name) If you can find clear ones, you can do small canopies that don't fit the 2 liter bottles. The beauty of the cups , like the plastic soda bottles is, the smaller it gets, the thicker/tougher it gets. The small colored dDxie cups, like yellow & blue, closely match "Cub" yellow when shrunk, and the USArmy Air Corps blue on primary trainers... Bob
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Old 07-10-2008, 03:39 PM   #22
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Hi Bob, it's a great cheap method of making cowls and canopies that are light and tough. I have made a plug cast from my GWS cowl . The GWS cowl has now almost disintegrated through use as the white plastic is brittle and useless. How did you manage to remove the shrunk cowl from the round plug. As it is round it grips like mad and I damaged the last one getting it off! Baz
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Old 07-11-2008, 12:22 AM   #23
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Default I "Feel" my way around...

I use a mechanic's feeler gauge,. the blades are various thicknesses, and tempered "springy" you can slip a small blade in and work it around (carefully) as it will assume the shape of the mold plug. If you're not careful,.. you can still gouge or streach the plastic too much. I work around the cowl,.. then if I have to, use the next size or to up, while pushing from the snout. Eventually.. it will "pop & slide" free... You can use anything that is VERY thin, and tempered..a very thin hack saw blade with the teeth ground off, and wrapped with electrical tape for a handle would possibly suffice, you just have to streach the plastic enough to get air all arond it... Bob


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Old 07-11-2008, 07:18 AM   #24
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Great thanks for the tip Bob- never had this problem with canopies or with shallower cowls but this one is deep. Have you tried coating the plug with talcum powder as a dry release agent? It doesn't matter if if marks the inside of the cowl does it? Barry
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Old 07-11-2008, 04:10 PM   #25
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Default Never thought of that!..

All my plugs aren't sealed.. they're open, porus balsa. I think I'd go with corn starch, as it's water soluble and should be able to be washed off easilly. and naaah, doesnt hurt a thing to mess up the inside..well unless you're painting the inside. I have lexan slot car body paints I sometimes use for coloring cowls. when you paint a clear cowl on the inside, it looks like it has a killer clear coat, and makes the paint look rich & deep. The slot car body paints are latex & flat/satin appearence when they dry.. and actually use the clear plastic as a "top-coat" Here's a photo of My "Square Foot" cowl with FasKolor pearl black on the inside... Bob

PS: The Square Foot is a rediculously easy build, and there is a link in there to show you how to convert a CDROM moter to a blistering small plane brushless, like the one in my "20".. If I can do it.. ANYONE can!(pssssst.. AND.. it's dirt c-h-e-a=p!)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...hmentid=495539


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