Capricorn - the ultimate flying boat.
12-28-2010, 11:57 PM
#1851
AMA & MAA Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Richland, WA
Posts: 76
Capricorn - the ultimate flying boat.
Too much motor would be a better way to phrase it. The Rimfire 300 is for 3D planes to 255 grams and it is 7 grams more than the 250. 7 grams doesn't sound like much, but the 250 is essentially 2/3 the mass with still more than adequate power (I think).
I put the 250 on it as soon as I got home. I also put CF along the leading edge. I used a credit card for the firewall. With a 2s 300mah battery onboard it is 147.4 grams.
After I get my transmitter charged well try to video the first flight.
I also am trying yet another hinge material. It's Durapore made my 3M. It's a fabric bandage tape and seems to have a better affinity for the foam than other tapes. I've been experimenting with silicone with my larger foamies, but that's too heavy for this tiny tot. I also didn't use a KF leading edge to save weight - but if I don't like it's glide I'll change that.
- 16" wingspan. 21" nose to TE of rudder. Rudder is 9" tall the vert stab is 5.5" tall.
I put the 250 on it as soon as I got home. I also put CF along the leading edge. I used a credit card for the firewall. With a 2s 300mah battery onboard it is 147.4 grams.
After I get my transmitter charged well try to video the first flight.
I also am trying yet another hinge material. It's Durapore made my 3M. It's a fabric bandage tape and seems to have a better affinity for the foam than other tapes. I've been experimenting with silicone with my larger foamies, but that's too heavy for this tiny tot. I also didn't use a KF leading edge to save weight - but if I don't like it's glide I'll change that.
- 16" wingspan. 21" nose to TE of rudder. Rudder is 9" tall the vert stab is 5.5" tall.
12-30-2010, 08:41 AM
#1852
Look out for that tree!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa USA
Posts: 7,061
Well done Scott!
That doubled leading edge wasnt ever intended to be any kind of KF airfoil.
I have always had my doubts about KF airfoils effectiveness in general. On this plan-form in particular, I cant see it making any real contribution to flight other than a little extra drag.
The doubler was originally done strictly for strength. At the time, I was wanting to avoid having to use any carbon reinforcement anywhere on the model. Not for any good reason other than "because"
As it turned out, the leading edge of the wing, where the bottom brace attaches and at the step location is a weak spot..... so I added the doubler.
Your carbon leading edge tubes will accomplish the same thing and I suspect it will be better aerodynamically than any KF addition.
That doubled leading edge wasnt ever intended to be any kind of KF airfoil.
I have always had my doubts about KF airfoils effectiveness in general. On this plan-form in particular, I cant see it making any real contribution to flight other than a little extra drag.
The doubler was originally done strictly for strength. At the time, I was wanting to avoid having to use any carbon reinforcement anywhere on the model. Not for any good reason other than "because"
As it turned out, the leading edge of the wing, where the bottom brace attaches and at the step location is a weak spot..... so I added the doubler.
Your carbon leading edge tubes will accomplish the same thing and I suspect it will be better aerodynamically than any KF addition.
01-06-2011, 08:22 PM
#1853
learning by doing
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 225
looks good, scott. nice rudder!
one thing to watch for is the distance from the leading sponson angle to the motor - acts as a pivot point when you first crank the motor up until the plane starts moving. Only way to know is to take off and see. To prevent a prop strike if you have one, you can either keep that distance a minimum, or increase the distance from the prop tip to the ground by a higher angled motor mount, or - less desirable due to weight, increase sponson height.
one thing to watch for is the distance from the leading sponson angle to the motor - acts as a pivot point when you first crank the motor up until the plane starts moving. Only way to know is to take off and see. To prevent a prop strike if you have one, you can either keep that distance a minimum, or increase the distance from the prop tip to the ground by a higher angled motor mount, or - less desirable due to weight, increase sponson height.
01-06-2011, 08:52 PM
#1855
Look out for that tree!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa USA
Posts: 7,061
hmmmm. Good eye aeroknot.
I didnt even notice that. Its hard to see for sure without a nice full on side view but now that I look at it closer i think you have a point.
My mini suffers from exactly that problem (nose over on power up) because my motor is also set ahead of where the float starts to curve up in front. Thats because I made those floats a tad too short to begin with and then shortened them further in an inverted nose first landing attempt
It only bothers me on sticky grass though and I have way more power than needed to just bull through it
It also looks like you have the step location way back Scott? Thats going to make it much more dificult or maybe impossible to rog or row.
The step really needs to be at the CG location or just a hair behind it.
Having the step a little forward of the CG wont really hurt this plane that much but it will make a conventional float plane squirley on take off and more likely to nose over. Haveing it too far back makes it very dificult to rotate for a smooth takeoff unless the model is well above flying speed. That makes for jerky and often disastrous takeoffs or it just wont break free of the ground at all.
For some reason the pic up-load is not working so I cant show you what I mean
I didnt even notice that. Its hard to see for sure without a nice full on side view but now that I look at it closer i think you have a point.
My mini suffers from exactly that problem (nose over on power up) because my motor is also set ahead of where the float starts to curve up in front. Thats because I made those floats a tad too short to begin with and then shortened them further in an inverted nose first landing attempt
It only bothers me on sticky grass though and I have way more power than needed to just bull through it
It also looks like you have the step location way back Scott? Thats going to make it much more dificult or maybe impossible to rog or row.
The step really needs to be at the CG location or just a hair behind it.
Having the step a little forward of the CG wont really hurt this plane that much but it will make a conventional float plane squirley on take off and more likely to nose over. Haveing it too far back makes it very dificult to rotate for a smooth takeoff unless the model is well above flying speed. That makes for jerky and often disastrous takeoffs or it just wont break free of the ground at all.
For some reason the pic up-load is not working so I cant show you what I mean
01-06-2011, 09:48 PM
#1856
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shelby Twp, MI USA
Posts: 704
Sounds like the front of the float contact point should be treated where you would put the main wheels on a tail-dragger.
And the rear of the contact point is where you would put the mains on a tricycle gear set-up.
And the rear of the contact point is where you would put the mains on a tricycle gear set-up.
01-06-2011, 10:58 PM
#1857
Look out for that tree!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa USA
Posts: 7,061
I think the step location is more like the mains on a tail-dragger. On tail draggers the mains are located just a smidge ahead of the CG. Never on it or behind it.
At the same time, if the mains are too far forward of the CG, you cant keep a straight line on take-off or landing - its too squirley.
On float planes the ideal step location is right on or just a smidge behind the CG.
Close to but not exactly the same as the mains on a tail-dragger.
The front curve on the floats is more like the nose wheel location on a trike.
At the same time, if the mains are too far forward of the CG, you cant keep a straight line on take-off or landing - its too squirley.
On float planes the ideal step location is right on or just a smidge behind the CG.
Close to but not exactly the same as the mains on a tail-dragger.
The front curve on the floats is more like the nose wheel location on a trike.
01-07-2011, 03:13 PM
#1860
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shelby Twp, MI USA
Posts: 704
Larry,
You have shed light on why my "Little Extra" a 42" span Extra 300 was so unstable when taking off on blacktop. It was only controllable on grass, because the tail wheel needed some drag or it would "ground-loop".
I located the mains forward because the little wheels would grab too much grass and it would nose over. I never realized there was a downside to going too far forward (always keeping the CG in the right spot). Those "Old Timers" had the wheels in front of the prop. I never flew one of those...
Thanks for the whole story.
You have shed light on why my "Little Extra" a 42" span Extra 300 was so unstable when taking off on blacktop. It was only controllable on grass, because the tail wheel needed some drag or it would "ground-loop".
I located the mains forward because the little wheels would grab too much grass and it would nose over. I never realized there was a downside to going too far forward (always keeping the CG in the right spot). Those "Old Timers" had the wheels in front of the prop. I never flew one of those...
Thanks for the whole story.
01-07-2011, 03:34 PM
#1861
Look out for that tree!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa USA
Posts: 7,061
You're exactly right.
The thing with many of the old-timer designs is that the engines they used in those days were very heavy - big old radials etc.
That meant that the engines had to be mounted on relatively short noses - compared to more modern designs with lighter power plants - to get the plane to balance at the proper CG. New design or old design doesnt matter - all planes still have to balance at the proper CG
This was especially noticeable on some of the old bipes. The engine was practically on the leading edge of the wing and the pilots forced to sit behind the wing.
So, by the time you put the main wheels where they needed to go - up near the leading edge of the wing - they would very close to the prop compared to a modern design - but still the same distance forward the CG as a modern design.
Its distances relative to the CG that tend to mater most in landing gear - or float - placement.
The thing with many of the old-timer designs is that the engines they used in those days were very heavy - big old radials etc.
That meant that the engines had to be mounted on relatively short noses - compared to more modern designs with lighter power plants - to get the plane to balance at the proper CG. New design or old design doesnt matter - all planes still have to balance at the proper CG
This was especially noticeable on some of the old bipes. The engine was practically on the leading edge of the wing and the pilots forced to sit behind the wing.
So, by the time you put the main wheels where they needed to go - up near the leading edge of the wing - they would very close to the prop compared to a modern design - but still the same distance forward the CG as a modern design.
Its distances relative to the CG that tend to mater most in landing gear - or float - placement.
01-07-2011, 07:09 PM
#1862
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shelby Twp, MI USA
Posts: 704
Yes, thank you for the interesting discussion. I meant the Old-Timer RC planes though. It sounds as if I could fly the real planes, no way, I don't even know how to turn the lights on... I have enough close calls with RC...
01-29-2011, 09:36 PM
#1863
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shelby Twp, MI USA
Posts: 704
For those who have tried to run FMS on Win7, if it didn't work, like mine, I found a fix:
Link for Win7 version of FMS
Down Load all 6 parts, then unzip, ignore the error note, it will work.
http://cid-b2a7867cce931929.skydrive...08.5.part1.rar
If you were running FMS before you switched to Win7, then it might load over the top of what you already have, adding even more planes to your file.
If you loaded FMS, with all those planes, including my Capricorn file, and it won't run, this will fix it, and the Capricorn will still be there.
The FMS I am referring to is referenced in my signature, below...
Link for Win7 version of FMS
Down Load all 6 parts, then unzip, ignore the error note, it will work.
http://cid-b2a7867cce931929.skydrive...08.5.part1.rar
If you were running FMS before you switched to Win7, then it might load over the top of what you already have, adding even more planes to your file.
If you loaded FMS, with all those planes, including my Capricorn file, and it won't run, this will fix it, and the Capricorn will still be there.
The FMS I am referring to is referenced in my signature, below...
01-30-2011, 05:11 PM
#1864
learning by doing
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 225
Thanks for the note about FMS and Windows7!
The link to the download page, where you can click on each file is (put http:// in front of the following):
cid-b2a7867cce931929.office.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public/FMS%202.0%20Alpha%208.5%20%5E5Additonal%20Landscap es%20And%20Models%5E6
or the same hyperlink
A total of 141 MB.
You can use the awesome freeware 7zip to unrar.
FMS homepage link with faq, fourm.
I haven't use a flight simulator in a long time, and don't have windows 7, but I still downloaded the files from the link you gave - and may use them in the future. I'm running Vista pro, and fms needed some simple change to the scenery files, the last time I checked under vista, but I don't recall the exact details.
I used smartprop, maybe ppjoy with fms, if I recall correctly, with a stereo cord from my transmitter trainer port to my sound card microphone input.
The link to the download page, where you can click on each file is (put http:// in front of the following):
cid-b2a7867cce931929.office.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public/FMS%202.0%20Alpha%208.5%20%5E5Additonal%20Landscap es%20And%20Models%5E6
or the same hyperlink
A total of 141 MB.
You can use the awesome freeware 7zip to unrar.
FMS homepage link with faq, fourm.
I haven't use a flight simulator in a long time, and don't have windows 7, but I still downloaded the files from the link you gave - and may use them in the future. I'm running Vista pro, and fms needed some simple change to the scenery files, the last time I checked under vista, but I don't recall the exact details.
I used smartprop, maybe ppjoy with fms, if I recall correctly, with a stereo cord from my transmitter trainer port to my sound card microphone input.
Originally Posted by DBacon
For those who have tried to run FMS on Win7, if it didn't work, like mine, I found a fix:
Link for Win7 version of FMS
Down Load all 6 parts, then unzip, ignore the error note, it will work.
http://cid-b2a7867cce931929.skydrive...08.5.part1.rar
If you were running FMS before you switched to Win7, then it might load over the top of what you already have, adding even more planes to your file.
If you loaded FMS, with all those planes, including my Capricorn file, and it won't run, this will fix it, and the Capricorn will still be there.
The FMS I am referring to is referenced in my signature, below...
Link for Win7 version of FMS
Down Load all 6 parts, then unzip, ignore the error note, it will work.
http://cid-b2a7867cce931929.skydrive...08.5.part1.rar
If you were running FMS before you switched to Win7, then it might load over the top of what you already have, adding even more planes to your file.
If you loaded FMS, with all those planes, including my Capricorn file, and it won't run, this will fix it, and the Capricorn will still be there.
The FMS I am referring to is referenced in my signature, below...
01-30-2011, 05:48 PM
#1865
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shelby Twp, MI USA
Posts: 704
Sounds like you are right on top of that. Next time you run FMS, you might try the new file anyway, it has a zillion planes in it. For some reason, they all are in separate files, I am putting them all in one common file, so FMS can scroll through the selections easier.
I DL'd the 7-Zip program, I will try it next time for unzipping. I noticed I had an earlier version from 2006, that was unused, now I will be more motivated to try it out, thanks!
I DL'd the 7-Zip program, I will try it next time for unzipping. I noticed I had an earlier version from 2006, that was unused, now I will be more motivated to try it out, thanks!
02-09-2011, 07:25 AM
#1867
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shelby Twp, MI USA
Posts: 704
I also made movies, came out exactly like yours. This spring I will experiment with places to mount the camera that are more firm, as I think that will get the wavy picture to be steadier.
Mine are at www.flynwolverines.com , our club website. Select "Video"
My new laptop only runs Win7 64 bit and it won't show the .avi files from my camera. The old laptop running Win XP did it just fine, so I am discouraged. Anybody have experience with this?
Mine are at www.flynwolverines.com , our club website. Select "Video"
My new laptop only runs Win7 64 bit and it won't show the .avi files from my camera. The old laptop running Win XP did it just fine, so I am discouraged. Anybody have experience with this?
02-09-2011, 07:37 AM
#1868
Look out for that tree!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa USA
Posts: 7,061
Hi hfenn! Thanks for the video!
My attempts to get good video from the smaller Caps was not very successful. Too much vibration and apparently, I fly like a mainiac because the cam never stayed in one place long enough for your eyes to focus
I recognize that motor mount and those pontoons your Capricorn are made from - where do you know Jed from? I havent run into him out at the field in ages.
My attempts to get good video from the smaller Caps was not very successful. Too much vibration and apparently, I fly like a mainiac because the cam never stayed in one place long enough for your eyes to focus
I recognize that motor mount and those pontoons your Capricorn are made from - where do you know Jed from? I havent run into him out at the field in ages.
02-09-2011, 07:51 AM
#1869
Look out for that tree!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Gig Harbor, Wa USA
Posts: 7,061
Originally Posted by DBacon
I also made movies, came out exactly like yours. This spring I will experiment with places to mount the camera that are more firm, as I think that will get the wavy picture to be steadier.
Mine are at www.flynwolverines.com , our club website. Select "Video"
My new laptop only runs Win7 64 bit and it won't show the .avi files from my camera. The old laptop running Win XP did it just fine, so I am discouraged. Anybody have experience with this?
Mine are at www.flynwolverines.com , our club website. Select "Video"
My new laptop only runs Win7 64 bit and it won't show the .avi files from my camera. The old laptop running Win XP did it just fine, so I am discouraged. Anybody have experience with this?
You need to find the correct 'codec'.
I dont remember where I found it but try a search on codecs for windows media player.
Now that I think on it - maybe I just downloaded a newer version - I cant remember.
I also downloaded a free player to play DVD's which also plays all other formats. Its called VLC player.
http://www.videolan.org/vlc/
It seems to work well.
02-09-2011, 11:02 PM
#1870
New Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 11
The motor mount and floats were copied from pictures on this forum. I'm in South Carolina.
I've had trouble with this camera and Win7 also. I found DivX converter (player) helped (google search free trial). I still had trouble uploading to youtube then found www.convertfiles.com that let me convert the vids from this camera to something youtube like better. After a failed upload it gave me some suggested formats and I converted to one of those from the convertfiles website.
I've had trouble with this camera and Win7 also. I found DivX converter (player) helped (google search free trial). I still had trouble uploading to youtube then found www.convertfiles.com that let me convert the vids from this camera to something youtube like better. After a failed upload it gave me some suggested formats and I converted to one of those from the convertfiles website.
02-14-2011, 02:27 PM
#1874
New Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Plymouth, MN
Posts: 18
.avi codec
I had that exact same problem this weekend when I tried opening / editing movies from my mini DVR. Luckily, my camera came with detailed instructions on where to get the codec. Try going to:
http://www.xvidmovies.com/codec
It worked for me.
Now, to plug the video I shot from this weekend:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVs6R...yer_detailpage
http://www.xvidmovies.com/codec
It worked for me.
Now, to plug the video I shot from this weekend:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVs6R...yer_detailpage
Originally Posted by DBacon
I also made movies, came out exactly like yours. This spring I will experiment with places to mount the camera that are more firm, as I think that will get the wavy picture to be steadier.
Mine are at www.flynwolverines.com , our club website. Select "Video"
My new laptop only runs Win7 64 bit and it won't show the .avi files from my camera. The old laptop running Win XP did it just fine, so I am discouraged. Anybody have experience with this?
Mine are at www.flynwolverines.com , our club website. Select "Video"
My new laptop only runs Win7 64 bit and it won't show the .avi files from my camera. The old laptop running Win XP did it just fine, so I am discouraged. Anybody have experience with this?
