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Dumas Spad XIII

Old 08-25-2008, 03:51 AM
  #26  
barmonkey
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Looking kind of Spaddish!

I will let the fuse rest for a while...I hope to get the wings laid out tonight...
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Old 08-25-2008, 04:24 AM
  #27  
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Looks like the wings will have to wait...my building board is a bit too small. I checked the garage and found nothing suitable to use as a building board. Of all that junk in there...nothing!

J...I answered your questions on the previous page BTW.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:34 AM
  #28  
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If anyone is interested in a 1/4 scale Spad...check this out! http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...345&PN=1&TPN=1

You will need to register to view the thread...which is at rcscalebuilder.com
The site is a bit slow, but worth checking out.

All I have to say is HOOLY WOWZA!

I'd like to add a bit of detail...mainly the reason this plane was built...a platform for the twin Vickers! ...and maybe some louvers...
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:37 AM
  #29  
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Barmonkey ,

I had the same thoughts about the Aeronca and Waco . I think if you select some "hard grain " balsa you will be fine . I used it in my Waco and it weighs 14oz. with no trouble . Or some basswood of those dimensions ...

J ,

As far as connectors I agree with Barmonkey that JSTs can be iffy . They will work till they become worn . The best thing you can do is "standardize" your connctors . I use only Deans micro connectors . Typicaly I solder my ESC wires to the motors . And for battery connections I use the Deans micro polarized . If I am pushing more than 10 amps I switch the battery connector to a Deans Ultra ( but this is rare for me ) Hope this helps . It saves a lot of guess work to have all the same connectors .

-John
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Old 08-27-2008, 05:36 PM
  #30  
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Looks like I will be stalled until at least Friday. I decided to pony up and order a Great Planes Building board...with any luck it should be here by Friday.

I have added the top stringers...I can break those 1/16 x 1/16 stringers just by looking at them. I will wait to add the bottom stringers until I get the bottom wing and landing gear finished. That way I will be sure where and how...or if...I want to beef up the landing gear mounts.

Also, from looking at other drawings it looks as though the Spad XIII had only 5 stringers on the bottom. I may just add 4 more 1/8 x 1/16 stringers to the bottom. I don't see any weight gain by doing this as I will be replacing 8 1/16 x 1/16 stringers with the 4 1/8 x 1/16 stringers.

In the meantime I will try to bend the Cabanes and the landing gear. Anyone have helpful hints on soldering the landing gear?
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:27 PM
  #31  
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When I did mine... I made sure to use plenty of soldering paste, and plenty of heat.

The less solder the better. The paste will suck it in, if it's showing, then you're using too much solder, or not enough paste.


that's all I have to say about that


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Old 08-27-2008, 07:35 PM
  #32  
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Thanks Other Monkey

I was wondering if my soldering iron would generate enough heat. I think it is 35 Watts? The wire isn't that heavy of a guage, but I may beef them up. Wondering if one of those small butane torches would work better than a soldering iron.

I didn't think about using soldering paste. What kind of paste and solder did you use?
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Old 08-27-2008, 07:55 PM
  #33  
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I forget, for this I probably used plumbing, not electrical.

I had some flexible wire, wrapped it around the two pieces of gear wire, and then smooshed in the paste. I heated it with the torch, and touched the solder to it. It sucked it right in.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:51 PM
  #34  
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Aha! you did use a torch....and you said "smooshed"...guess there really isn't a more descriptive word.
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by barmonkey View Post
Aha! you did use a torch....

burned myself with it too....

also, try to do it outside, so there's less chance of burning your house down.
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Old 08-27-2008, 11:03 PM
  #36  
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That'd be really bad considering I'm a Fireman!

Good news...just got back from my Local Hobby shop...and my building board was in! She's SWEEET! Also, Scott (LHS owner) told me I could solder them up at his shop.
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Old 08-31-2008, 08:31 PM
  #37  
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With any luck I'll have my wings started tonight...maybe finished by tomorrow night. For now I have some books laying over the plans to flatten them out a bit...they were folded not rolled.

At this stage, I plan to add Ailerons actuated by a single servo mounted in the center of the top wing. The servo will be accessible through a top hatch cleverly disguised as the wing reserve tank. I also plan to incorporate mechanical differential into the Ailerons by top hinging them. There are other means of achieving this: Using computer radio functions, but I will use only one servo to save weight...so that is out; and positioning the aileron's control horn in such a manner that will achieve differential...although I am not certain how...angling the control horn so it is in front of the rotating axis? I will keep with the plan's dihedral, which is only 3 degrees.
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Old 08-31-2008, 08:40 PM
  #38  
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Barmonkey ,

OOOh ...Aelerons !!! Sounds like it should be nice . I kick myself for not hacking them into my Waco YMF-5 .

I hate the way they fold the plans too ...

Wish I had the extra $$$ right now . Just got a coupon for $10 off a $50 order from Tower . that Spad and DeHavilland Rapide is looking really nice !

-John
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Old 08-31-2008, 08:42 PM
  #39  
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Please post pictures of this aileron setup. I'm building without them, but would love to see how you do it! I've got my wings covered, and will be staring on the fuselage next. The power system is installed (with some engineering to make it work, as the gearbox was not made for a stick mount...) Are all gearboxes noisy? I've only used outrunners to date...

I'm watching this thread closely - I appreciate you posting your work.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:12 PM
  #40  
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John, I was trying to keep myself from adding Ailerons...got to keep it simple...but I prefer Ailerons to Rudder/Elevator only. I'm not too worried about the weight gain...most of the weight will be at or in front of the C/G. Also, look at Horizon Hobby, I think the kit is $7 cheaper there.

jszeitzer, All gearboxes will be somewhat noisy compared to an outrunner. I don't recall the gearbox that I have (which is like yours) being all that noisy. Maybe a bit quieter than the GWS gearboxes (which I plan to use). I still may go brushless, but I will not make that decision for a while yet.

Feel free to post some pics of your own especially your gearbox mount. That may prove useful to someone else that Follows Towers recommendation.

Did you encounter any issues while building the wings?
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Old 09-01-2008, 12:16 AM
  #41  
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Barmonkey ,

That is good to know . I watch Tower quite often . I got my two Waco kits for $28 . They go down pretty low , then bump them back up !

-John
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:39 AM
  #42  
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My gearbox kind of growls... not squeals or whines like my outrunner. Does this seem correct?

I'll post a picture soon
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:37 AM
  #43  
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I'll say a growl is OK. Did you get the same Great Planes Gearbox as jofrost? ...The one Tower suggested? I think that I may have confused you guys earlier.
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:06 PM
  #44  
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Made a little progress last night. The instructions require you to make bowing formers out of foam board using the supplied templates. I photo copied the patterns, laid them on the foam and cut directly through the copied pattern and the foam at one time. I made 2 formers for each wing...the instructions have you make just one.

Two lengths of 1/16 x 3/16 Balsa are then soaked in water to soften them up. A bead of glue is applied between the two pieces and then wrapped and taped to the former. The instructions have you glue the tips of the two strips together before soaking/forming. I'm not certain it is really necessary. If you do, and they don't become unglued while soaking, start the forming with the glued tip at the straightest part of the former. Hopefully the pics while clear this up...
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:10 PM
  #45  
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I forgot to mention...this is where I made my first mistake....that I know of! I mistakenly tried to use 1/16 x 1/4 Balsa for the wing tips. This is for the trailing edge of the bottom wing. Fortunately, I realized this before I glued and formed them together. I did, however, cut them...requiring me to splice them back together.
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Old 09-01-2008, 04:38 PM
  #46  
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I managed to get most of the top wing finished, with the exception of attaching the leading edge, fixing the dihedral and adding the wingtips. I couldn't get the little pieces of the center section trailing edge (A9,A10) to line up just right with the plan. Also, the trailing edge (A1,A12) ended up 1/16 short on the ends. Not really a mistake, it should work out OK. The larger of the most inner ribs (the first R3 from the center) needed to be trimmed a bit at the trailing edge. Likewise, the most outer rib (R5) on both sides needed to be trimmed a bit at the trailing edge. Clarification: I am referring to the notch at the rear of the rib which lies on top of the trailing edge.

Attaching the wing tips looks like it could be a bit tricky. The formed wing tips will need to be angled up from the Leading Edge Spar to the Center Spar (A2) and back down to the Trailing Edge (A13/A12). Furthermore, this will make adding Ailerons more difficult than I first imagined.

The only part of the bottom wing that has been glued is the center section...the other parts have just been laid out on the plan.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:31 AM
  #47  
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Got two wings done...OK...mostly. I still need to glue the LE spar and add dihedral, but first I need to figure out the Aileron situation. The formed wing tips haven't been added either. The glue held on only one out of the four, so I had to re-glue. At first, I was a bit concerned that the way they are affixed to the wing would complicate things. That really shouldn't be an issue.
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Old 09-02-2008, 08:55 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by barmonkey View Post
At this stage, I plan to add Ailerons actuated by a single servo mounted in the center of the top wing. The servo will be accessible through a top hatch cleverly disguised as the wing reserve tank. I also plan to incorporate mechanical differential into the Ailerons by top hinging them.
Plane is looking great!
You can check out what I did for aileron differential with a single servo - not sure if it would work for your situation, but something to consider.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...d=1#post467648
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Old 09-02-2008, 11:20 PM
  #49  
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Nice! I'll study your set-up...All options are open still. Even having the servo in the fuse connected to a bell crank on the lower wing just like the real one.
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:09 PM
  #50  
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I decided to go ahead and glue the wing tips on as they were intended, rather than build them flat to the plan. After looking at Pat's pictures, I decided that I liked the illusion of a thinner wing. Also, the creation of the Ailerons didn't seem like such a daunting task after I studied it for a while.

I got both Ailerons cut out...I only broke one spar loose in the process! With the use of a razor saw, the side of my square to hold the spar steady and an Exacto the process was pretty easy. I did consider cutting the spars before assembly, but decided that it would be easier to get the spars and trailing edge lined up correctly.

I decided to use 1/8 Balsa to fill the gaps at the TE between the newly freed spars (is there a name for this?) The 1/8 Balsa will be cut/sanded to shape at the tips when I clean up the rest of the wing. After looking at my work, I am am beginning to think that 1/8 is a bit thick...but after some sanding to gain some clearance it probably wont be so bad.
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