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Dumas Spad XIII

Old 09-05-2008, 02:04 AM
  #51  
barmonkey
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Note to anyone building the Spad:

I don't believe the instructions mention this...where are they anyway...the center section of the bottom wing will need to be notched in the front and back of both sides for proper fitment. This should be a lot easier without the wings attached.
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:14 AM
  #52  
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Oh yeah, I got these guys finished. Still a bit of sanding to do.
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Old 09-05-2008, 04:39 AM
  #53  
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Couldn't resist a couple of mock up shots...
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Old 09-05-2008, 02:15 PM
  #54  
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Looks good! What are you going to cover it with? I used Coverlite, and it seemed to work fairly well, despite my poor workmanship.
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Old 09-05-2008, 07:52 PM
  #55  
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I plan to use Doculam...which is a document laminating film. I have about 500 feet of this stuff so I can make a lot of mistakes. I have some Coverlite also, but I purchased it for my Albatros and at $5.50 for 36" I figure it will cost me $22 to cover it...I want to keep the cost down.

Have you covered your wing yet? I forgot to weigh mine before I added the Ailerons...If you have a scale, I would appreciate it if you could weigh your top wing for me.

How did you end up mounting that motor?
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:05 PM
  #56  
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I'll try and get that weighed for you this weekend. I mounted the motor to two pieces of 3/16 by 1/4 inch balsa glued to the face of the firewall. I'll try and get a picture posted. I discovered, incidentally, that the motor shaft was too long for the gearbox. I "dremeled" the length down a bit, and applied some lithium grease. It runs a whole lot more quietly now. Thank God I didn't try to fly it the other way... I'm sure it would have failed - every hour I devote to this kit results in more fear about that maiden flight!
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Old 09-05-2008, 11:52 PM
  #57  
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Way to go Tower! First selling the wrong gearbox for the plane...and then selling a motor with a shaft that is too long.

Glad to hear you got your motor situation worked out. How did you end up fixing the motor to the gearbox?

I'd like to see those pictures of your plane. It sounds like you are much farther along than I am...and I thought I was making good progress. I'd like to see how you mount your landing gear. I still haven't bent mine up yet. Perhaps I'll do that this evening. I bought a hobby torch at Harbor Freight for $10, and just bought some Stay-Brite silver solder and Flux today. The Stay-Brite solder is what Pat Trittle (the designer) says he uses, so I'll give it a go.
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Old 09-06-2008, 07:54 AM
  #58  
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Here is my tentative plan for the servo and linkage layout for the Ailerons...

The servo will be mounted in a hole cut low into the center span-wise spar (A1). This will be reinforced with some thin ply on the front of that spar. The reinforcement should place the servo horn just ahead of the hole in the center axis Rib (R1). A scale-like panel will cover this area hopefully giving good clearance for servo/linkage adjustment or replacement.

The servo horn will be the "X" horn with two of the arms cut off to form an upright "V". I assume this will give some differential.

The Aileron control horn will be mounted to the existing A8 already in place on the Aileron itself.

There is a bit of tension in the push rod, causing the wing to flex a bit. This worries me that it may induce an unwanted flex in the wing. I considered using Golden Rod Cable, but am afraid that it may have too much flex on the "push" side...thus negating any benefit of the differential set-up.
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:18 PM
  #59  
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My top wing weights around 1.4 ounces or around 45 grams... I don't have a digital scale (yet), so I'm sure it's a little inexact. (covered)
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Old 09-06-2008, 03:44 PM
  #60  
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Is that with the covering?
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Old 09-06-2008, 04:54 PM
  #61  
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yes
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Old 09-06-2008, 04:57 PM
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and two decals
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Old 09-06-2008, 11:53 PM
  #63  
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Looking Good! I didn't realize the Coverlite would be so shiny.

My wing is 50 grams so far...all parts including servo, control rod etc...and no covering. I am thinking that I should end up adding around an ounce.

Thanks for the pics!
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Old 09-07-2008, 01:15 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by jszeiter View Post
and two decals
What color are you using? It looks like it maybe a good match to use to make repairs on my GP SE5A.
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Old 09-07-2008, 02:57 AM
  #65  
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Looks like Dark Green Coverite Coverlite to me Don...which is the only shade of green in the Coverlite line.
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Old 09-07-2008, 03:55 AM
  #66  
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That's the color! Now if only someone could show me how to lay down a seam perfectly flat I'd be completely set! It was like gift wrapping a bowling ball doing the fuselage... I ended up using a heat gun *very carefully* to get it to shrink up nice and flat... Except for the seams...

Can you guys point me to the best link for covering instructions? And, is it inherently harder to cover using this ultralite stuff as opposed to "normal" coverings?
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Old 09-07-2008, 04:44 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by jszeiter View Post
That's the color! Now if only someone could show me how to lay down a seam perfectly flat I'd be completely set! It was like gift wrapping a bowling ball doing the fuselage... I ended up using a heat gun *very carefully* to get it to shrink up nice and flat... Except for the seams...

Can you guys point me to the best link for covering instructions? And, is it inherently harder to cover using this ultralite stuff as opposed to "normal" coverings?
I wish that I had some good advice to give...but this will be my first covering job! There is a 3 or 4 part series posted on You-Tube. I can't remember the title though...something like "Covering with Monocote"
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Old 09-07-2008, 04:47 AM
  #68  
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I found it...it is five parts...brought to you by RCUniverse...

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N96v_xwi4c&feature=related[/media]
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Old 09-14-2008, 03:55 AM
  #69  
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How's it coming Barmonkey? I've got my covered completely now, with the gear on... Next up the horizontal and vertical stabs. I'll get some more pictures up soon.

A couple issues...

I ran the rigging thread through the hole in the side of the fuse with a sewing needle before I covered the bottom. It would be impossible otherwise...

I am not looking forward to making the top wing fit onto the struts and cabanes... I just refuse to believe that it will all line up... We'll see.

This kit just goes on and on...
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Old 09-17-2008, 04:08 AM
  #70  
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Hello J, glad to hear that you made progress. I hope those struts line up for you..just don't glue anything until you are sure.

As for me, I haven't made any progress...been super busy with work and things on the homefront. I was actually going to respond to your message Sunday morning. But the remnants of the Hurricane came through and knocked the power out...just came back up this afternoon!
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Old 09-18-2008, 02:54 AM
  #71  
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I just fit the top wing onto the interplane struts and the cabane struts... It was not pleasant trying to locate the little pin holes for the cabanes through my opaque green covering! It seems to be aligned properly, however. I'm going to glue the top connections on tomorrow morning, once the bottom connections dry.

Then it's on to the rigging and finishing details! (which is when it starts to get a little more fun for me...) This has been a somewhat over-ambitious second balsa kit build... Once I get things all rigged up, I'll post some pictures.

Any thoughts on how this thing should fly? I'm used to aileron foam models (Parkzone, GWS, etc.) and frankly don't have any real three channel only experience.
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Old 09-19-2008, 01:54 AM
  #72  
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Glad to hear those struts lined up for you. Mine should be pretty easy to locate if I still end up using the Doculam for covering...it's clear!

I may have some time Saturday and Sunday to get something done...I hope. I was really happy with my initial progress. But then there was my bright idea to add Ailerons. I'd probably have this thing covered by now If I hadn't made that fateful decision.

I prefer Aileron control to Rudder/Elevator control...it just never seemed natural to me. I do have three planes without Ailerons: GWS Slow-Stik; Electrifly Jenny; and GWS Pico Tigermoth. All of these planes require a no wind situation to have an enjoyable flight in my opinion...although I have managed to fly the Tigermoth backwards...that was pretty cool.

The plane should fly just fine on Rudder/Elevator control. Just don't expect to do axial rolls and the such. It is designed to be a lazy flier, so just expect gentle cruising and maybe some loops...and watch out for that wind.
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Old 09-21-2008, 04:04 PM
  #73  
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Default Finished!

Well, all the detail was done. I took it to the field. Powered it up, and it couldn't even roll in the grass. It drove lazily around on the jogging path without even a nod in the direction of taking to the air.

So I brought it home and checked everything out. Good 'ole Tower sold me GWS 9X4.7 props - Tritle wants me to use 9X7 - would this make all the difference I need?

I stupidly followed Tower's advice regarding the powerplant- it's a electrifly T-280 coupled to an electrifly s-280 3.5:1 MPI gearbox. Please tell me the prop will make the difference... If not, please let me know what I should buy...

Incidentally, the plane looks great, but as for flying --- not so much...:o
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Old 09-21-2008, 05:04 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by jszeiter View Post
I stupidly followed Tower's advice regarding the powerplant- it's a electrifly T-280 coupled to an electrifly s-280 3.5:1 MPI gearbox. Please tell me the prop will make the difference... If not, please let me know what I should buy...

Incidentally, the plane looks great, but as for flying --- not so much...:o
After I had a brush motor and gear box only last four flights I no longer waste money and time even installing them. I am now flying a Great Planes SE5A on a 2410-09Y outrunner with a 10x8 prop. It will fly slow on 2s lipo and almost go straight up on 3s. You can find this motor with ESC here. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...x6E_Prop_Combo With shipping will probably cost about $20. If your spad is larger than my SE5A you will need a larger motor.
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Old 09-21-2008, 06:11 PM
  #75  
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Glad to hear you finished it...but no flight is better than a crash on a maiden any day in my book! I think that the main reason that it didn't fly is that you didn't post any pictures

Seriously though, before anyone can can help you...we'll need a little more info. If possible, weigh your plane...with and without your battery. Pat's prototype came in at 11.1 ounces. As a novice builder, I immediately figured mine would come in heavier than that. With the addition of Ailerons and a heavier GWS 350 motor/gearbox I hope to come in well under 15 ounces. Don is correct about the wonders of brushless power, but our planes ...even though they are a similar size...shouldn't weigh any where near the GP SE5A's 20+ ounces.

Also, what battery are you using...2S lipo? How old is it? If you have a Wattmeter you can see if your battery is sagging under load. If you don't have a Wattmeter, GET ONE! I firmly believe that anyone flying electric planes must have one of the invaluable tools.

Oh yeah don't forget those pics
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