Forge

Guys,

I am working on a kit build P-51 from MM. I am trying to fill and smooth out some transitional surfaces on my build. They will be covered with solite covering after my fixes.

Its it better to use a wood filler or wall spackle to fill, sand and cover? I just want to make sure that it will work well and look good when I cover over it. I don't have very much build experience and want to get it right the first time.

Then again, maybe either will work?

Thanks!

Forge

darylm44

I would use light weight spackle. It sands easily and is really light.

CHELLIE

Hi, get yourself some lite weight Spackel, it works great, and to fill large voids, mix with 5 min epoxy 50/50, hope that helps, Chellie

CHELLIE

Hi Darylm Great Advice Take Care, Chellie

Forge

Chellie,

Thanks once again for the great insight. Of course I have two tubes of wood filler in my tool box and no spackle. Murphy's law prevails again.

I need get some anyway for some walls in the house.

Have a great evening!

Forge

Voyager2lcats

Forge, light weight vinyl spackle is the "bondo" of the electric RC world.

CarpenterDave

Bad for Rc planes---- (Good for walls)


For Rc planes----- these types

groundrushesup

Yeap. And just a heads-up - I saw the smaller size of the lightweight Fast 'n' Final at my local Wal-Mart. Quart tubs at the Home Cheepo.

GRU

CHELLIE

Thank you Voyager See I learn something new every day here, Take care, Chellie

Forge

CarpenterDave,

Thanks for the photos! Not to be ignorant, but besides the packaging what makes one better than the other. Is "vinyl" the operative ingredient?

Thanks for all the great info.

Good flying.

Forge

ps. I was going to go out flying this morning, but we got about 3 inches of snow here in CT last night. I think my next mod or build will be to put skis on one of my planes.

Voyager2lcats

My pleasure Chellie. You help me, I hope I help you. It was very nice of your club to accept me as a "charter" member being as I am in the "other" SC. You've got a great group in the Chino Renegades.

darylm44

I guess I am the chopped liver of these boards compared to Chellie (the "phillip minon" here). I give the first appropriate answer and she gets all the accolades Now why would that be?

I am not as fun to flirt with you think

Have a great day, I am going to sulk my way off to the field where I am going to fly with skis in a freezing rain. Yes, we are having another Alaska Fun Fly

Daryl

CarpenterDave

The sheetrock lightweight joint compound, almost allways called "spackle" is very heavy, loaded with water, and harder to sand when compared to the Dap, Red Devil, etc. brands of lightweight patching spackle.
When you go to your local hardware or home center you will feel a big difference between the two--in the same sized containers.

Darylm44 said what is best to use, I just wanted to show a picture so people are not confused between the types of "lightweight spackle".

starcad

And another follow up on the Light Weight DAP spackle. With that, wire ties, dry wall screws and duct tape you can build a city.

Seriously, I always have a quart in my shop. If it gets a little dry just add a couple of drops of water.

riverrat

I learn something new here every day!!
Dap Lightweight Spackling! Sounds great!!
Is there a limit to the max thickness that can be applied? As in streamlining, maybe scratchbuilt in & out air scoops? And can a lite coat of CA glue be applied over it to seal & harden, after sanding to shape?
Been using Hobbylite on very small & shallow fixes, works good, dries fast, & very easy to sand. But in my opinion, it's a little to soft for any thicker application.

Jimmy

Bub Steve

1/8"-1/4" max without checking,(crack'in) you can do more in layers, bub steve

RickAvery

One bit of caution when using the lite spackle. Because it is VERY light, it can take a bit of finesse to sand without the joint showing. I use it all the time and when possible, especially when filling a wide gap or joint, I use a block to keep from hogging out the fill with uneven pressure from my fingers behind the sand paper. It sands even faster than many foams or balsa. I then seal it with a few coats of minwax polycrylic with a light sanding between coats. Mind you, I'm usually painting it & not covering it. GreaT stuff!! Good luck.

Rick

riverrat

Thanks!!!

Rick & Steve!!

Jimmy

groundrushesup

one more handy dandy tip:

If you are working with raw EPS that has a pronounced bread pattern, you can - rather than sanding away material to smooth some of the more egregious features - mix this lightweight spackle with water into a pancake-batter-ish consistency (I call it a 'slurry') and brush it on. let it dry a few days, and then sand away - you're foam will come out baby's butt smooth. Great step before 'glassing' with YMOC (your material of choice) and Water Based Polyurethane (MinWax Polycrylic is favorite).

I also used this technique to bury rudder and elevator control rod tubes in a foam fuselage, then covered out with spackle and sanded - hard to tell they are there.

Bub Steve

Good one GRU Bub! steve

phupper

"mix this lightweight spackle with water into a pancake-batter-ish consistency (I call it a 'slurry') and brush it on"

I got this tip from GRU a while back and made my own version. I spray the foam with water, wipe off the surface drops, then apply the spackle.

Besides the final smoothness, I think the thinned spackle penetrates deeper into the foam giving it a better grip. It does take a little longer to dry though.

Phil

Prof100

Excellent visual aid!

Prof100

Another filling option is Water based polyurethane (Minwax) mixed with baby powder. Dries well and is very easy to sand.

CHELLIE

Voyager, Your Family here Take care and Stay Sweet, Chellie

Voyager2lcats

Hey Prof100, I follow the Grasshopper/PD1 approach: spackle and WBPU+silk. It's like a slightly spongy armor.