joeted

Ok Ive just binded it which im pretty proud of lol , my motor mount seems to be too small tho which is a complete beatch coz ive cut the box to get it open so dont know if i'll be able to send it back ,i must admit after binding it and getting the ailerons etc moving I really wanna fly it now lol
Working out where all the parts are going to fit is going to be a mission too i think ,feel free to post pics of where u lot placed all your parts

radweld

Joeted, it's your choice if you want to replace the servo. There are no real bad points in changing it as the Hitec one is more powerful and more accurate. However, if you try fly this plane at 80mph+ it will rip it's self apart. It's only designed for 35mph stock. With this in mind, a brush-less livens it up somewhat but if you want a fast plane then your modifying the wrong plane.

DetroitHawk

This plane will be cheap, light weight, and will have tons of power. While you claim it will "rip it's self apart" i have actually flown this plane faster then 90mph and to date it have never "rip it's self apart" there is no reason this plane can't be a fast plane either. While to you it might make sense to spend a lot of money on a huge plane that you have to have a huge field to fly it in, THIS is a parkflyer. while his setup will take this plane to it's limits i can from first hand claim this plane CAN and will travel at these speeds.

i once took this plane in a high climb only to dive it at the ground to TRY to rip the wings off and it still pulled out of it with no problem. My FW190 had the hollow wing with a similar setup and IT had no problem dealing with the speed, infact i flew it several times with it @ 32oz of weight and the plane still sits safely in the hanger. All i can suggest is that radweld grow a pair or sit back and relax. This is a warbird and in the spirit of the people who designed it; if they could of made it go faster back when it was in service they would have. The best part will be when he can tool around in this plane at just about the stock weight and have all that extra power just ready to go.

groundrushesup

Hey just trying to help, and maybe at the same time improve my kit.

groundrushesup

"Grow a pair"? That's a bit unnecessary, especially in this forum where we are trying to help each other.

90 mph? That's Miles Per Hour? Got a reading on that? I could sit here and pull numbers out of my keister all day; it doesn't help much. It is counterproductive to turn this into a pi$$ing contest.

DetroitHawk

Spare me the drama

You use the stock gearbox and wouldn't understand about speed. LOL @ your 10x6 prop BTW

groundrushesup

Boy, aren't you just a peach.

radweld

Stock prop is a 10x8 isnt it. Besides, you don't have to mod the heck out of these planes to have fun and in some ways, the more you mod them the less fun they become. You make them faster, you have to beef them up to cope, this adds weight and ruins the dynamics. I don't like flying mine flat out but I like the power of the Park 480 to climb 500 feet in seconds.

It's up to Joeted on how he wants to fly, it's up to us to tell him how he can do it but if you want flat out speed then this is the wrong model. Over on Squadron Leader there have been plenty of reports of wings folding on totally stock models, never mind ones that have been modified.

joeted

Chill people chill lol.
Youve all been a massive help to me especially DH,Radweld and now Ground.
I am going to continue to convert it and just see what happens.Ive come to far and spent to much to stop now anyway lol.
Today Im going to place all the parts inside the plane and see what happens ,I think the motor/esc leads are too short but I might just get away with it,I hope I do anyway coz I cant see me being any good at extending the leads on these.Im also going to attempt to build a motor mount so wish me big luck.What type of wood should I use and hows the best way to make it ? I'll look at DH's pics too try and work it out,I'll look for more pics too from others just to get different ideas.
I must say also that the front of the plane does seem quite heavy but then again I cant really remember how heavy the stock one was so its probably the same.
Oh and the lipo is alot bigger than the stock batt's and moves about a bit in the battery tray.

radweld

You want some model aircraft plywood, cut this to size, screw this to the firewall and then screw the motor mount to the ply. I used some strips of spruce instead of the ply but I think ply is a better option.

joeted

All done,it took some work mainly by my carpenter friend lol but we got there.Hit 1 problem tho,I lost a couple of washers from the motor mount and luckily saw them stuck to the inside of the motor and I cant get them out due to the magnetic force of it.The motor spins ok as the washers are stuck on the very side of it so its not obstructing anything but do u think this will cause big problems if I cant get it out ?
Any way heres some pics of the mount,When I put the cowl over it the motor doesnt sit smack bang in the middle of the cowl but it still has clearence so it doesnt rub on it or anything like that,hopefully that wont be a problem either ? heres some pics

radweld

your going to have to disassemble the motor to get at them washers, you don't want them loose inside or they will do major damage. Good work on the motor mount but it looks like the motors been mounted too low down, when you fit the cowl, it might look odd but should work ok. You also want to put some holes in the ply to allow for air flow into the fuse.

AETCBoom4

What are the specs of that motor? I can see it's a 1400ish KV motor, What prop do you plan on spinning with that.

joeted

Is it really ? Ive actually put the motor mount above the stock gear box holes so it should be higher than the stock lol.Does it look to low down to effect it ?

radweld

It looks like it, the output shaft of the motor needs to be in line with the top two original gearbox mount screws, this one looks a little too low for that.

joeted

I havnt got a clue what prop to use I was hoping you lads could tell me what would be best ? as Im not clued up on working out what 1 I need.
Heres the spec for the motor http://www.brchobbies.com/?page=shop...ditem&item=962
My set up is courtesy of Detroit Hawk as Ive gone with the set up he recomended for speed really

joeted

Oh dear , back to the drawing board damn

radweld

Actually forget what I said, it looks like it's fine. I just re-checked what I did and it looks to be in the same position.



As for Prop, I think a 10x7 should be ok but BRC always provide a datasheet with the motor to help you decide what prop to use, if you didnt get it give them a call.

joeted

Oh thanks god for that i feel better now lol. Yeah i got the prop sheet from brc i'll give that a look,i forgot about that.
As for dismantling the motor,im toying with the idea of buying a new 1,how hard is it to dismantle and get back together ?

AETCBoom4

With that high of a KV a small one. LOL .. My 3550 KV inrunner is turning 9x9. With the gear reduction it is comparable to a 1200 KV outrunner. I'm pulling 410+ watts at around 38-40 amps. I hope you got a ESC that can handle amp draw and a strong"C" rated batteries.

I would check amp draw with whatever prop you are using to make sure you won't overamp. I would also ensure your ESC has good ventilation.

After taking a closer look, that motor looks like a relabeled Turnigy. See the reviews at the bottom of the page for performance analysis and props used by other customers.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...unner_(Eq:2814

joeted

Cheers buddy. Im using a 40amp esc and a 25c-35c lipo.
Does anyone know how to dismantle the motor so i can get these damn washers out ?
Oh and you lot will laugh your arses off at this but by looking at these pics,have I put the motor the wrong way round ? and what is the bullet shaped screw thingy and where does it go and also the little round bolt thing next to it ? oh and where does the washer go ? Im stupid i know lol but i like to make sure

groundrushesup

Well the thing about the motor leads being short on the Spit is not that big a deal - the firewall structure is spacious enough that you could theoretically mount the ESC close enough to the motor to make it work, which would also place it near the battery tray. Apologies, I was thinking about the P-51 which has a more restrictive setup.

You should be fine.

joeted

Thanks mate , Have u had a chance to look at the above post and pics about my motor maybe being the wrong way lol ?

groundrushesup

No, you have it right. Your particular motor has what might seem like a bizarre shaft orientation, but the radial-mount that you attached to the spinning side (with the large 'screw thingy') is where the prop will go.

I suppose what you can do once you get your prop is to put it on, then ream out the stock spinner base to fit around that shaft, slide that on, then screw down the conehead-shaped spinner nut. Then see if the stock spinner cap will go over the top of it. It should. I actually replaced my stock spinner with a 2.5" Du-Bro spinner that is a lot more sturdy and designed to balance on a larger diameter prop shaft. I use what is called a collet adapter over the threaded shaft from the Gear box. And proud of it lol

groundrushesup

Sorry, about the washers -- if you absolutely CANNOT fish them out with a small piece of music wire bent like a hook, then your only other option is to press out the shaft and remove them from the bell housing.

You can do this if your friend has a drill press, find a bit that is of one-smaller diameter than your motor's shaft (3.2mm is it?).

First step: there may be a c-clip on the side of the shaft that is protruding. carefully remove that, taking pains not to lose it (it will spring and fly away, so be very delicate.

Get a piece of scrap wood and drill a hole in it about oh, say 10mm or whatever it takes to seat the motor to avoid damaging the casing, put the drill bit in the press backward so the cutting end doesn't damage the bearings, and press out the shaft until it is through one of the bearings and releases the housing from the stator (the bit that stays stationary, with the wires coming out).

Once that comes out, remove the washers, and then GENTLY press the shaft back into the bearing in the housing. Replace the c-clip.

You're done. I'd caution you, though, to only do this as a last resort. do your best to fish them out before you disassemble your new motor.

cheers,
gru