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pz t-28 trojan

Old 08-03-2008, 09:26 PM
  #626  
notfamous
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My wing keeps detaching from the fuse. I've tried jb weld but I had a rough landing again so that broke. I'm thinking maybe I should place 2 10inch CF slabs into the foam and wing on the bottom side. That way it'll be more secure.
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Old 08-03-2008, 10:13 PM
  #627  
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I'm still new to using my dx6 but does anyone know how to program flaperons real quick?
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Old 08-07-2008, 09:29 AM
  #628  
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Originally Posted by notfamous View Post
I'm still new to using my dx6 but does anyone know how to program flaperons real quick?
one alieron servo lead goes into aux slot other goes into alieron slot,
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:29 PM
  #629  
zaphod98620
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Default Flaperons

Tip stall looks like increased risk w/ flaperons to me.
I have not tried it myself for that reason, but I think there is discussion of that earlier in thread.
Any other opinions?
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Old 08-09-2008, 12:17 AM
  #630  
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Originally Posted by zaphod98620 View Post
Tip stall looks like increased risk w/ flaperons to me.
I have not tried it myself for that reason, but I think there is discussion of that earlier in thread.
Any other opinions?
I use spoilerons to decrease lift so the T-28 descends in a steeper glide slope. Works ok and haven't had tip stall problems yet.
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:51 AM
  #631  
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Default Nose gear control horn

Originally Posted by Yaniel View Post
has anybody had collar that the front gear goes into break? mine split where the screw goes, now i cant tighten the wheel down. it was actually like that since the first flight even without a hard landing.
I found a fix for this. I ordered a DU-BRO 5/32" Steering arm. It is basically the same piece we are breaking but a bit over-sized. First pop the old horn out of there. Careful not to crack the firwall as the horn has a captive feature that retains the piece. Cut the length of the control horn down to fit the opening. I had to cut most of it away but was able to leave the control link hole closest to the axis of rotation intact. Next, I bought some 5/32" Aluminum tube at the LHS. I cut a piece just a little longer than the steering arm is thick so that there would be something for the firewall to retain the assembly. I then inserted the aluminum tubing into the steering arm, connected the control link and slid the whole assembly into place. At this point all you need is to install the nose gear. Being careful to line the detent up with the set screw torque the set screw down just as you would the stock setup. Now be sure to connect your linkage to the rudder servo and presto back in action with an improved NYLON steering arm.

I found that the the mod works fine without the trouble of the aluminum tube addition but it tightens the whole thing up nicely. Plus, if you cut the tube the right length, it adds a captive feature to the control arm similar to the original piece. That way you can remove your nose gear without chasing the control arm that goes tumbling out...
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Old 08-22-2008, 10:12 AM
  #632  
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Originally Posted by zaphod98620 View Post
Tip stall looks like increased risk w/ flaperons to me.
I have not tried it myself for that reason, but I think there is discussion of that earlier in thread.
Any other opinions?
I have flaperons configured, it definitely slows the plane down and I've had no tip stall problems. I have programmed some down elevator in the flaperon mix. Of course there is less aileron control, but I've experimented and found a nice balance that lets the plane float in really slow and stable while still retaining sufficient aileron control. I don't usually use it if there's significant headwind, but in calm air it shortens the approach significantly. .002$ (I hate that they don't even bother putting a cent symbol on keyboards).
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:50 AM
  #633  
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You can always configure spoilers, where the ailerons point upwards instead of down, this is supposed to negate the possibility of a tip stall. I use it on mine ok.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:49 PM
  #634  
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Default What plane were you referring to?

TSky28,

What plane were you referring to for the steering arm mod? I'm hoping its the PZ Trogan T-28 as the part is back ordered with no date in sight.

Thx,

Buck1401

Originally Posted by TSky28 View Post
I found a fix for this. I ordered a DU-BRO 5/32" Steering arm. It is basically the same piece we are breaking but a bit over-sized. First pop the old horn out of there. Careful not to crack the firwall as the horn has a captive feature that retains the piece. Cut the length of the control horn down to fit the opening. I had to cut most of it away but was able to leave the control link hole closest to the axis of rotation intact. Next, I bought some 5/32" Aluminum tube at the LHS. I cut a piece just a little longer than the steering arm is thick so that there would be something for the firewall to retain the assembly. I then inserted the aluminum tubing into the steering arm, connected the control link and slid the whole assembly into place. At this point all you need is to install the nose gear. Being careful to line the detent up with the set screw torque the set screw down just as you would the stock setup. Now be sure to connect your linkage to the rudder servo and presto back in action with an improved NYLON steering arm.

I found that the the mod works fine without the trouble of the aluminum tube addition but it tightens the whole thing up nicely. Plus, if you cut the tube the right length, it adds a captive feature to the control arm similar to the original piece. That way you can remove your nose gear without chasing the control arm that goes tumbling out...
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:18 PM
  #635  
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Originally Posted by Buck1401 View Post
TSky28,

What plane were you referring to for the steering arm mod? I'm hoping its the PZ Trogan T-28 as the part is back ordered with no date in sight.

Thx,

Buck1401
Welcome to WattFlyer Buck. This thread is devoted to the Parkzone T-28, so I think it is safe to assume that the steering arm mod referred to is for the PZ T-28. That's not to say things don't get a little off-topic sometimes, but it is usually pretty obvious when they do.
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:30 PM
  #636  
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got it... Thx!
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:40 PM
  #637  
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Funny story that IS related to the topic of this thread...

I was at my flying field (a public, soccer complex), when a car pulled up, and three people got out... They waited for me to approach them (they parked right behind my car), and asked me if I would help them...

I had no idea what they meant, I thought they were looking for directions, or something. I asked them to wait a moment, as I got my Stryker out of the rain...

When I got back, I saw a brand new, shiny, ParkZone Trojan. I learned these nice people had just come from the hobby store, and this was their first RC airplane...

I tried to talk them into returning the Trojan for a high wing trainer (like the Super Cub), but they didn't want to hear it. The rain stopped, so they decided to go for it...

I took off, trimmed her out, took her to "three mistakes" of altitude, and handed the controls to each of them, in turn. Each one of them needed a "rescue", very quickly. We continued the training session, and I landed her (I actually somehow parked her at my feet!)...

With the one flight I had, I have to say that I was VERY impressed with the ParkZone Trojan...

...Since then, two of the three guys have come back with a Super Cub. We went through the same training session, and they did MUCH better with the Super Cub. I found out the Trojan is "on consignment" at the local hobby shop -- I'm tempted to go purchase it!

(For what it's worth, the Super Cub is grossly underpowered, when compared to the Trojan!)
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Old 08-25-2008, 08:56 PM
  #638  
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Originally Posted by Lieutenant Loughead View Post
(For what it's worth, the Super Cub is grossly underpowered, when compared to the Trojan!)
Great story Guy!

Your final observation is something that I think is a plus for the Super Cub as well as the Trojan. A good trainer should teach you to fly a plane with the wing, not the prop. Gobs of power is fun, but learn to fly with finesse first. Then take a plane like the Trojan and have some real fun!
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Old 08-27-2008, 12:17 PM
  #639  
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I think this is good advice, I've been flying since Christmas and everything I have is powered. Well I just decided to take up slope soaring and wow what a difference this is. No power to get you out of trouble, you have to think ahead of where your going and what your going to do when you get there lol. It's really difficult but i'm hoping it will refine my flying skills. Flights in excess of 20-30 mins are fun but tiring though. I hope this will improve my powered flight skills.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:00 PM
  #640  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
I think this is good advice, I've been flying since Christmas and everything I have is powered. Well I just decided to take up slope soaring and wow what a difference this is. No power to get you out of trouble, you have to think ahead of where your going and what your going to do when you get there lol. It's really difficult but i'm hoping it will refine my flying skills. Flights in excess of 20-30 mins are fun but tiring though. I hope this will improve my powered flight skills.
If you are interested, I can hook you up with a power system that can stay in the air in excess of 20-30 minutes...

This morning, I flew my BRUSHLESS POWERED GWS P-51 for 18.7 minutes. My endurance record for this same power system is on a GWS Zero -- 52 minutes, on September 20, 2005. It's the same motor and gearbox, and it's still going strong!
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Old 08-27-2008, 10:57 PM
  #641  
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lol 30 mins flight time is enough for me. Thanks though
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Old 08-28-2008, 04:33 AM
  #642  
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Originally Posted by humboldt guy View Post
I have flaperons configured, it definitely slows the plane down and I've had no tip stall problems. I have programmed some down elevator in the flaperon mix. Of course there is less aileron control, but I've experimented and found a nice balance that lets the plane float in really slow and stable while still retaining sufficient aileron control. I don't usually use it if there's significant headwind, but in calm air it shortens the approach significantly. .002$ (I hate that they don't even bother putting a cent symbol on keyboards).
Hey Humboldt Guy, I just added flaperons to my T-28 with a DX7, I have a couple of questions/observations.

First, can you let me know what you mix is on the "nice balance" you found? I'm new to the Spektrum world, so you can be as specific with the menu as you can, I would appreciate that.

Second, I use the three position switch, 0 of course is no flaperon, 1 I think is at 50%, and the 2 postion is more, but I can't remember. I found in the first position that the plane slows decently, with so far no tip stall. The 2nd postion is so great that I lose almost all control of the alerons so I assume I've gone to far. Anyway, any reports on your mixes would be a big help.
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Old 08-28-2008, 06:39 PM
  #643  
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hi all ive got the t28 and think its great .but the body flexes wen pulling in inverted loop and i lost my canopy shame.the plane is a buzz wen you set all the horns on max .and ive also reinforsed the wing mounts as the wing moves and is slopey .and it mite pay off to bend your nose wheel forword to stop noseing in wen taxiing one last thing its a good idear to reenforce the sides of the body in the canopy bay to reduse flex. hope this helps others dan .
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:14 AM
  #644  
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Originally Posted by daniel View Post
hi all ive got the t28 and think its great .but the body flexes wen pulling in inverted loop and i lost my canopy shame.the plane is a buzz wen you set all the horns on max .and ive also reinforsed the wing mounts as the wing moves and is slopey .and it mite pay off to bend your nose wheel forword to stop noseing in wen taxiing one last thing its a good idear to reenforce the sides of the body in the canopy bay to reduse flex. hope this helps others dan .
First I've heard of canopy coming off in inverted loop. What motor are you using - is it higher powered?
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:19 AM
  #645  
daniel
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Cool t28

hi cjg ive got the one it comes with i was thinking about upgradein the moter but want to kill this one first. have you got any movement between the wings and body.and dose any one know if i can get flaprons with the rodio gear that comes with the t28

Last edited by daniel; 08-29-2008 at 12:48 AM. Reason: to add more tex
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:26 AM
  #646  
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I cut about 1/8 inch of the wing mounting post and the wing cinches up tight to the body.
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:33 AM
  #647  
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Originally Posted by daniel View Post
hi cjg ive got the one it comes with i was thinking about upgradein the moter but want to kill this one first. have you got any movement between the wings and body.and dose any one know if i can get flaprons with the rodio gear that comes with the t28
You don't want to use flaperons on this model, the only time I crashed mine when when I was experimenting with them. The tip stall will bite you and when it goes in nose first, it does a lot of damage. You can configure spoilerons but you need after market radio gear as the aileron servos need to be on different channels.
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Old 08-29-2008, 12:51 AM
  #648  
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nice one so id need a dx6 or eq.has any one had a go of the nemo ?wot a giggle iv got one see my pics ive done a few mods

Last edited by daniel; 08-29-2008 at 12:56 AM. Reason: t28/skymaster/easyglider/330l/nemo/spreesports/hawk/bypyak
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Old 08-29-2008, 01:00 AM
  #649  
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nice cjg i just used heat glue on it just 4 dabs to the joints it peels of so il have a go of that
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Old 08-29-2008, 02:15 AM
  #650  
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I've been flying the T-28 for several months now. I've never had any problem with the canopy coming off. I pull inside loops, outside loops, fly inverted, etc. I fly it fast, I fly it slow. Never had a problem with it coming off. Make sure the little plastic nubs fit into the holes before you press it into the magnet.

I'm on my second fuselage, let's say I learned a lot with the first one. I repaired it so many times it got too heavy!

Great plane indeed!
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