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Converting PZ Spitfire to brushless

Old 09-07-2008, 01:35 AM
  #301  
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Old 09-07-2008, 02:22 AM
  #302  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
The Dihedral is the angle of one wing to the other, as you will have noticed the wings point upwards like a V. This is th dihedral, you need to bend the metal tube so that the two CF rods have an angle that is the same as the wings.
Couldn'ta said it better myself. Here's an aft view of the Spit. What you need to do with the aluminum is to shape it so that it preserves the V shape that Radweld is talking about. If you put one long flat piece of CF in the wing, it would flatten it out, which will screw with the flight characteristics.

You want that V shape to stay, so you use the aluminum as a center spacer, thereby giving it stiffness without messing with the angles of the wing.

pic below.

I used a piece of aluminum as well -- As I recall Radweld used brass. I did something special with mine - In order to preserve the integrity of the tube when bending it to the correct angle, I filled the aluminum tube section with water and froze it. That way when I bent it, it did not kink, which would've introduced a weak spot in the truss.
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:51 AM
  #303  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
The Dihedral is the angle of one wing to the other, as you will have noticed the wings point upwards like a V. This is th dihedral, you need to bend the metal tube so that the two CF rods have an angle that is the same as the wings.
oh right ok cheers radweld , so basically i need to bend the aluminium tube to the same angle as the curve in the wing underneath the fuselage ?
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:00 AM
  #304  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
Couldn'ta said it better myself. Here's an aft view of the Spit. What you need to do with the aluminum is to shape it so that it preserves the V shape that Radweld is talking about. If you put one long flat piece of CF in the wing, it would flatten it out, which will screw with the flight characteristics.

You want that V shape to stay, so you use the aluminum as a center spacer, thereby giving it stiffness without messing with the angles of the wing.

pic below.

I used a piece of aluminum as well -- As I recall Radweld used brass. I did something special with mine - In order to preserve the integrity of the tube when bending it to the correct angle, I filled the aluminum tube section with water and froze it. That way when I bent it, it did not kink, which would've introduced a weak spot in the truss.
Thats brilliant Gru and DH thanks alot i'll get to work on that today, would u recommend peeling the wing cover back then cutting or just cutting and then covering back up with clear tape ? DH done the latter by the looks of it is that right ?
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:24 AM
  #305  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
I did something special with mine - In order to preserve the integrity of the tube when bending it to the correct angle, I filled the aluminum tube section with water and froze it. That way when I bent it, it did not kink, which would've introduced a weak spot in the truss.

Thats a great tip, I didnt think about doing that. But the angle is so slight that there is minimal deformation. However, good tip
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:26 AM
  #306  
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post

You know you still have the weak spot here, when they fold, they always seam to fold under the fuse, because your rods are not connected, this could still cause a collapsed. I would recommend linking the two rods together for extra rigidity.
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:36 AM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
You know you still have the weak spot here, when they fold, they always seam to fold under the fuse, because your rods are not connected, this could still cause a collapsed. I would recommend linking the two rods together for extra rigidity.
when i place the cf tubes into the ends of the aluminium tube how do i make them stick to it ? what glue is best ?
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Old 09-07-2008, 04:05 PM
  #308  
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I haven't put carbon rods in my Spitfire yet. When I put them in my PZ FW-190 I used a 2" piece of 1/8" piano wire bent to the dihedral angle and epoxyed inside the .220" CF rods
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Old 09-08-2008, 12:10 AM
  #309  
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Ok Im almost done, Ive just done my cf tubes as you can see below in the pics, ive bent a bit of aluminium and put it into the curve in the wing and then inserted cf tubes in each end and epoxy'd everything into place.seems to be very solid.
Im a bit concerned tho of my motor because when i look straight down the nose (as im facing the front of plane) at eye level it looks like its going off to the right a bit, i'll post pics tomorrow when ive put the cowl on properly so u can see what i mean.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:27 AM
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looks like that should work fine, i peeled back the skin and reattached it to finish mine off, your looks a little messy but i am sure it will work just the same. LOL make sure you use some clear plastic packing tape to cover where the rods went, this will add alot of support for that area.
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Old 09-08-2008, 01:56 AM
  #311  
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Originally Posted by radweld View Post
You know you still have the weak spot here, when they fold, they always seam to fold under the fuse, because your rods are not connected, this could still cause a collapsed. I would recommend linking the two rods together for extra rigidity.

I have never never had a problem, but my spitfire has never been crashed, i am sure that would have a lot to do with the fact; mine has never failed.


Also the forces exerted pn the wings cause the wings to bend which compounds the stress on the middle where you would think it would fail. Even when they are not connected the fact they keep the wing rigid keeps the middle from failing.

Before the wing fails your controls over the ailerons would give you almost no control over the plane.
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Old 09-10-2008, 06:07 PM
  #312  
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post
looks like that should work fine, i peeled back the skin and reattached it to finish mine off, your looks a little messy but i am sure it will work just the same. LOL make sure you use some clear plastic packing tape to cover where the rods went, this will add alot of support for that area.
Lol yeah it is quite a messy job ive done to be honest plus you'd laugh your socks off at the black tape ive used to cover the rod slits,looks very rough but never mind I just hope it flies.Got my mas props today and wanna fit them but the hole on the prop is not big enough for the prop shaft now i know i have to ream the hole bigger but is a reamer just like a drill bit coz i havnt got 1 , cant i just use the normal drill coz i really wanna fit them and dont wanna wait lol ?
Is this what I need ? http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3869
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:54 PM
  #313  
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right i went out and got that reamer so gonna give it a go in a minute
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:58 PM
  #314  
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am i right in thinking that the motor should be facing ever so slightly downwards ?? because i swear the stock 1 pointed downwards just a touch and also with the way ive got it at the moment theres quite a big gap between the spinner plate and the bottom of the cowl but a really tiny gap between the spinner plate and top of the cowl.
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:15 PM
  #315  
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i made my motor mount to center the motor shaft with the opening in the cowl. Make the motor flush with the firewall and forget about the downward angle.


Get rid of the electric tape covering the CF rods and use the clear packing tape i suggested. Because of the type of adhesive used on the black tape it will do nothing other then cover the hole and weigh twice as much.
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:18 PM
  #316  
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Best to secure the cowl with a velcro strip on each side of the fuse. The four tiny screws are a PITA! Might be good to open up the intake holes in the cowl. Motor straight ahead should work fine.
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:31 PM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by DetroitHawk View Post
i made my motor mount to center the motor shaft with the opening in the cowl. Make the motor flush with the firewall and forget about the downward angle.


Get rid of the electric tape covering the CF rods and use the clear packing tape i suggested. Because of the type of adhesive used on the black tape it will do nothing other then cover the hole and weigh twice as much.
Ok will do i'll get the clear packing tape on it staright away cheers buddy
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:33 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by Gohmer View Post
Best to secure the cowl with a velcro strip on each side of the fuse. The four tiny screws are a PITA! Might be good to open up the intake holes in the cowl. Motor straight ahead should work fine.
Thanks Gohmer i didnt think of the velcro and your right the 4 screws are terrible and never stay fixed tight enough , and ive actually just opened up the intake holes about 2 mins before i read this lol so thats good timing.I'll give the velcro a go now
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Old 09-10-2008, 11:45 PM
  #319  
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Right shes all done and ready to go I think , Heres some pics for you.Take a look coz it might be in bits within the next couple of days lol.Ive used velcro to secure the cowl instead of the screws coz they was a pain in the ass.Im a bit worried the cowl will work its way forward a bit and rub against the spinner plate using velcro instead of screws but its worth a go.And im still a bit uncertain about the motor being dead straight as Im sure its just a touch off the right but i'll see how it flies
P.S dont laugh at my cowboy job on the cf tubes lol
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:23 AM
  #320  
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Looks good to me. Don't worry about the cowl, lots of flights on mine and no forward movement in flight. Did you ever weigh it?
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:33 AM
  #321  
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Originally Posted by Gohmer View Post
Looks good to me. Don't worry about the cowl, lots of flights on mine and no forward movement in flight. Did you ever weigh it?
I didnt get to weigh it mate coz the electric scales dont seem to be working,I placed it on them the other night and was geting no response but i'll grab my mum and dads scales tomorrow and weigh it on them and let ya know.
Cant wait to test it out now , im a bit nervous tho lol as is the first time ive done something like this.Ive flown loads of times but never have i modded a plane and then flown it.fingers crossed
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:55 AM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
Right shes all done and ready to go I think , Heres some pics for you.Take a look coz it might be in bits within the next couple of days lol.Ive used velcro to secure the cowl instead of the screws coz they was a pain in the ass.Im a bit worried the cowl will work its way forward a bit and rub against the spinner plate using velcro instead of screws but its worth a go.And im still a bit uncertain about the motor being dead straight as Im sure its just a touch off the right but i'll see how it flies
P.S dont laugh at my cowboy job on the cf tubes lol

hehehehe looks good man, finally ffs! that spinner is nice and big innit? you should christen this bird "big nose" or "biggles nose" or something like that
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:56 AM
  #323  
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1 more thing , when i turn on the dx6 i it beeps about 5 times, is that a normal amount ?? the manual doesnt say much about this . after the beeps stop everything works fine so im guessing its ok i just dont want anyhting happening mid flight.
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:59 AM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
hehehehe looks good man, finally ffs! that spinner is nice and big innit? you should christen this bird "big nose" or "biggles nose" or something like that
LOL I know about time aint it lol.yeah the spinner is nice , i got 2 of them and that is the smaller one ,the other 1 was a bit bigger but didnt look out of place.
I was thinking of calling it Pinnochio
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:59 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by joeted View Post
1 more thing , when i turn on the dx6 i it beeps about 5 times, is that a normal amount ?? the manual doesnt say much about this . after the beeps stop everything works fine so im guessing its ok i just dont want anyhting happening mid flight.
chances are its the ESC beeping, letting you know "Hey, I'm armed so watch your fingers."
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