helipilot2

I Just finished mt large 70" revolver in an electric config. It weights about 9lbs. I am looking for 100 watt/lbs. It's powered as follows:

Motor: TURNIGY 50-65D 270kv Outrunner (eq: 4030AXi)
Esc: TURNIGY Sentilon100A HV 5-12S BESC (Ver4)
Batt: 5sx2 (10s) 3300mah 30c
Prop 16x10e APC

Before I try this thing and burn something, does anyone out there disagree with this set up or have a better sugestion?

Any comments will be appreciated!

flying-barely

It is my understanding that these motors like med or high timing. Only thought other than that comes to mind is 3300mah/10S will give you pretty short flights times! just something to watch for IMO. I'd do 4 minutes, then check the batteries! FWIW flying-barely

tobydogs

i used the high setting for the 50-55-580kv with the sentilon. thats also a good suggestion about flight time by flying barely,and a watt meter to check the 16x10 prop is a must as most of the applications written up are for 6cell/8cell,with a couple of 10 cell using smaller prop pitch than your choice.

i like the sentilon a lot for my easy flying but another pilot who flys hard aerobatics burned his up.....thats not a concern for the planes I'm using them in. they are nicely built. heres a pic of my setup in the extra,the motor mount let me mount the esc right behind the motor and has spacers to get air flow behind the esc.

helipilot2

Thanks!! You the think the prop is the right one..or shoud i go with like 15x7...or something like that a bit smaler?

Thanks!!!

tobydogs

i know this will sound familiar,but a watt meter will tell you what prop to use. for a few dollars the props cost its worth experimenting.the 100amp esc is a good choice for that motor ,so i'd worry about burning the motor up.......then the esc gets burned during the dreaded white smoke. remember...as you pull power out of the 3300mah packs they to will get hot if you push them to hard....its a fine line we fly if we don't match everything up to how we expect to fly.

i use throttle management on all my flying and burnt out a motor during a airport club fun fly at Warwick ny....i figure due to the crowd i was flying way to much wot,dooohhhh,that will teach me to loose concentration on the bird I'm flying.

just got the new motor yesterday[motors,1 extra]and can't wait to install it. i know others here at watflyer will chime in with better suggestions so keep asking questions.its how i learn from others inquireries.

flying-barely

helipilot2: just checked the specs for this motor! It is specified to run on 6 or 8S, 16/10 is the largest recommended prop for 8S. 70amps for 60 seconds. Even at that rating, be absolutely sure both the motor and esc get plenty of cold air, and provide an air exit at least twice the entrance size!
It would be way too much prop for 10S if you wanted to try it!! On 10S, I'd probably start with 14/12 APC E for tests!
If you do not have a wattmeter, get one BEFORE you run, the thin line can be passed very quickly, and all you'll see is the SMOKE!!!
Good luck with your new plane, nice choise! flying-barely

helipilot2

Flying-B: Thanks for the advice! The specs read up 36v which is about 10s, correct? I got two packs of 5s (18v)...but i will run 1 pack of 5s with a wattmeter and a 14x12 like you said..I am jut afraid it wont be enough to pull this plane.. Its feels pretty heavy for a 14 prop..its about 9.5lbs.
thanks!

flying-barely

You will need both packs 10S to get the power you will need to fly. these planes can be very fast!! They require good long runways for both takeoff and landing! A 5S would not even get it to fly, likely.
It appears that your ESC can handle 10S, but others have had failures on 12S. Like I mentioned, the motor is rated for 8S with a 16/10, would be faster with the 14/12 on 10S. Watch your first flight times!
Have fun! flying-barely

flying-barely

I just did some checking, here's what i found!
The 5065D-270 Turnigy running a 16/10 should pull about 65 amps, go 86 mph, produce 282 oz thrust and 2370 watts.
Running a 14/12 on 10S makes 104 mph,at 53 amps, 1952 watt in,190 oz thrust ( still plenty for take offs)
Dropping to 8S, 16/10 speed drops to 69 mph, 1270 watts in, 185 oz thrust, at 47 amps. Not your basic speed demon here!
Just as an example: a Scorpion 4025-16 running on 10S, with a 14/12, shows 1880 watts in, at 78 amps, 246 oz thrust, 86% efficiency,and 118 mph static ( should break 125 in the air). Now that would make your Revolver sit up and pay attention!! FWIW flying-barely

helipilot2

Thanks!! Thats what I was looking for! The basic queston is if i want speed or power...I am not into 3d. I want an airplane that have plenty of power to get out of trouble if i need to. So i guess a happy medium would be like a 15x8 or so? I am more of a pttern pilot wich love some mild simple acrobatics..but i do want the vetical climb.
Anyway..i do appretiate your help!!!

flying-barely

Hi helipilot2: That sounds about right, a 15/8 on 10S would still have enough power for sport flying. good choice! flying-barely

scott-p

I bought this plane. It will be my biggest one to date. I can't wait to get it. Looks like with that set up a 80 amp esc is needed....or bigger? I will get a watt meter for this plane because I have been going with the recommended setups on the others. I would like to push it a little harder with this one.

kyleservicetech

Last year I had the smaller Revolver, with about a 55 inch wingspan. Power was a Hacker A40 Series motor. After about 20 flights, the right aileron came completely out of the wing, suspended only by the servo's push rod. I got the plane back on the ground in one piece, but with considerable damage.

Didn't take long to figure out why the aileron came out. The CA type hinges were mostly glued into the wing's foam core. All three CA hinges were still well glued into the aileron itself. In the wing, only about 3/16 inch of the CA glue surface was balsa. Bad design, and little mechanical strength! Be sure to check yours, and if nescessary, peg the hinges with something.

scott-p

did you read the reviews on that besc on the page in your link? Dang every one of them were bad. From smoke to flames in 1st and second flights. Thats scary

flying-barely

Hi scott-p It is always a good idea to use an esc at least 20% larger than the highest rating of the motor. If the motor is capable of pulling 80 amps, I'd run a 100 amp ESC. That way if your current setup pulls 65 amps, you will have room to go to a larger prop or add pitch later.
The 100 amp Sentillion has shown issues with 12S, but reports say it handles 10S just fine! Make sure you get the approriate programming card for it too. The new K-force units are reporting very good results too.

When you reach these S ratings, testing your system is everything, use the recommended motor amps max as your top limit (if motor is rated for 65amps continuous, don't exceed it). If a chosen motor cannot give you the desired power without exceeding it constant limit, you need a bigger motor.
Just my 2 cents, FWIW fly-barely

scott-p

I totally know nothing about programming the besc and program cards and timing. Could you or someone point me in the direction of best reading to learn about these things. I have time to study. I got the plane coming but now have to get the electrics a little at a time, as the $$$ lets me, and will put a package together that I like. Iwould like to break the 100mph mark with this one too.

Thx, Scott

flying-barely

Check out the forums here that discuss esc's, batteries etc, right at the top of the page. Look for articles on your specific motor/esc.
I have used several Hobby city esc's, Plush 40, 60, and 80 sizes up to 6S. Bulletproof as far as I'm concerned. Also have a new Tz85A 6S, absolutely great, very smooth power delivery!
The HV units seem to be giving problems to some people when run on 12S, I believe some of the problems are the setup, and that is in the programming.
Go to the Hobby city web site, find your motor, then read every thing anyone has written, watch for successful setups describing the timing,PWM freqwuency on the S you intend to use. Do the same with your chosen ESC, the guys who haven't burnt them up have figured out the safe setups.
Timing on these bigger motors is critical, at these voltage levels, a mismatched motor will destroy itself the esc or both in seconds!!
Get the appropriate Programming Card for you particular ESC, its the best investment going to protect your equipment and makes setup very easy!
Best I can do for you, I've been playing with this stuff for two years and still learn something new every time I pick a power package.
I have just been informed that my new K-force100 will be here in a couple of days, I've got my motor/ test bed all set up to run the hell out of it! flying barely

scott-p

thanks, I guess the bigger ya go the more studying you have to do...now to the reading!!

helipilot2

Well...i broke the landing gear on its maiden flight. It did some repairable damage to the LG mount plate. I am thinking of putting a little glass to reinforce it.. It makes me mad that GP normally builds such a high quality ARF's and if you read all the forums about the Revolver, it seems that ALL of the revolvers 70 break at the same place. Anyway..I wasnt able to fly it because the gear came off as soon as it started to rotate.. I fly on a grassy stirp, so the wheel pants are comming off too.. The Motor, ESC seem to have enough power with the 15x8 prop..It was hauling butt down the runway at little more than 1/4 stick....I will keep posting on the progress..

helipilot2

About the reviews on the ESC...all the 1 stars came after i bought it....I wonder if they got a bad badge....

kyleservicetech

H'mmm
Forgot about that. Mine did the same exact thing. The landing gear plate was a piece of ply the same dimensions as the LG itself. And it was installed with thin CA. And most of it was not glued to anything. It just came out on the third landing, with the wheel pants trying to poke holes through the wing.

flying-barely

Hi helipilot: At this point its redundant to say that almost every brand I'v purchased has similar lack of glues or wrong glue types.
Despite the fact that I don't think for one minute we should tolerate this poor workmanship, the vast majority of buyers just seem to accept that they will have to carefully reglue everything on a plane when we recieve it!
The best you can do is to complain to the company (GP in this case),ask them to replace the fuselage, threaten to never buy another GP product if they don't smarten up. And mean it!
Then about once a month send them an email reminding them you no longer buy or support their products. If enough protest, they will do something to try to remedy the problems. 10 cents worth of proper glue at the factory would avoid 90% of the stupid,unnecessary repairs.
I have stopped buying all Eflite products over this very situation, and have informed them so! I bought three planes from them, firewall fell out of the first one on the first flight, second planes landing gear had NO glue, it left the plane on second landing (a perfect 3 pointer by the way). and the 3rd had issues with firewall, landing gear and prestripped t nuts in wing mounts. That was enough for me. I have had two Great Planes biplanes, both had firewalls so weak they couldn't support the reccommended motor,and wing struts plywood mounts that crumpled while drilling for screws! I have not bought from them since! My 2-3 cents flying-barely

helipilot2

I had good luck so far with GP..I own 3 Big Sticks..(.40, .60, 1.20). THey are awsome planes..This is why I am surprised about the poor workmanship of this plane (at leaston the landing gear area). Terrible design plus cheap glue (looked like cheap white glue). I might put some glass ther to reinforce it. There was other damage to the airplane caused by the wheel pants breaking through parts of the floor boards... Anyway..it will be couple of days...

helipilot2

This was the repair I had to do aftr the landing gear was ripped out on first take off.
I repaired with fiberglass and it worked perfectly. It flew yesterday and it flies awsome...Its a little fast, but I think I canwork with the expo on my controler and smooth it out a bit... I love the plane though and its so dar quiet. I could fly it very early in the morning without the neighbors even knowing it...LOVE THE QUIET POWER!

kyleservicetech

Double and triple check the aileron hinges on your Revolver. Might be a good idea to drill under the wing, and pin them with several 1/8 inch dowels and epoxy.

Only about 3/16 inch of balsa trailing edge holds the hinge. The rest is nothing but foam.

The aileron hinges on the wing end on my Revolver came completely out of the wing during a flight, leaving the aileron hooked up only to the servo. Got the model back on the ground, bent up the motor, took off the landing gear.

Word to the wise.