Power Systems Talk about motors, ESC speed controllers, gear drives, propellers, power system simulators and all power system related topics

Turnigy Outrunner Shaft Collar

Old 08-17-2009, 01:04 AM
  #1  
Colt187355
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Calif coast
Posts: 24
Default Turnigy Outrunner Shaft Collar

Okay, being totally new to electric RC airplanes, not RC planes, I ran into a motor shaft collar. It was in the box and it obviously fits the motor shaft, but what the heck is it for? My only guess is it has to act as a backup to the circlip as those clips are not really capable of handling thrusts. But on the other hand I really haven't a clue. Any response would be appreciated.
Colt187355 is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 01:32 AM
  #2  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by Colt187355 View Post
Okay, being totally new to electric RC airplanes, not RC planes, I ran into a motor shaft collar. It was in the box and it obviously fits the motor shaft, but what the heck is it for? My only guess is it has to act as a backup to the circlip as those clips are not really capable of handling thrusts. But on the other hand I really haven't a clue. Any response would be appreciated.
they are mainly there for exactly what you assumed, but moreso to hold the stator and can together if you reverse the shaft's orientation. When you do that, there isn't a groove where you need it on the shaft to accommodate the circlip - so you use the setscrew collar in its place.

Hope that makes sense.

GRU

PS - Welcome to Wattflyer, sir.
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 03:22 AM
  #3  
Colt187355
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Calif coast
Posts: 24
Default

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Now I know.

I've been snooping around the board for a few weeks reading articles by "Ajear" on power systems, etc. His work was good for me as I knew absolutely nothing about electric power. I go way back with glow RC's, back to escapements and reed systems if you can imagine that and changes along the way. What a change in the 2.4 GHz systems. Simply amazing. Thanks for the welcome. First RC electric should be in the air next weekend if the forest fire is put out and the fire crews leave the flying field area.
Colt187355 is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 04:45 AM
  #4  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by Colt187355 View Post
First RC electric should be in the air next weekend if the forest fire is put out and the fire crews leave the flying field area.
Good luck on the 'lectro-maiden. I think you'll find the convenience of electric power (as it is with brushless and LiPo innovations) to be a joy.

As for the wildfires.. sheesh! I find enough reason to complain when it is too windy!

josh
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 04:43 PM
  #5  
Colt187355
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Calif coast
Posts: 24
Default

The fire is over 50% contained finally after some 10 days, and we have the winds too living next to the ocean.

An ElectiStik is "raring" to go almost identical in size to a 45 glow powered Ulgly Stik just like I used to fly. A motor test run was completed with the ESC arming directions in hand. Oh, that was simple when I could listen to the beeps. Already, no oil to clean up off of the plane. What a pleasant experience.

What a steep learning curve trying to figure out ESC, BEC, etc, but I made it past those hurdles with a lot of reading on this forum about everyting. I even went so far as buying a watt meter as suggested here as I know I will change props, etc. and I checked my set up to make certain I wasn't over drawing current through the BEC when all servo's were actuated simultaneously. Of course there is no load on the servos from air passing by, but I know I am way under the max draw even at peak current draw.

A friend of mine has been over multiple times and just bought his electric rig, radio set, etc. As I am a little further down the road to understanding he looks at my stuff and determines what he needs to do next. Not that I am an authority on any of it. His airplane is about a week behind mine, but might be ready to fly Saturday too.

Up for a challenge? Take a look at the motor mounting in this kit. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...h_Electric_ARF . How the heck do you do that? How do you mount the prop, etc.?

Last edited by Colt187355; 08-17-2009 at 05:14 PM.
Colt187355 is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 06:52 PM
  #6  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by Colt187355 View Post
The fire is over 50% contained finally after some 10 days, and we have the winds too living next to the ocean.

An ElectiStik is "raring" to go almost identical in size to a 45 glow powered Ulgly Stik just like I used to fly. A motor test run was completed with the ESC arming directions in hand. Oh, that was simple when I could listen to the beeps. Already, no oil to clean up off of the plane. What a pleasant experience.

What a steep learning curve trying to figure out ESC, BEC, etc, but I made it past those hurdles with a lot of reading on this forum about everyting. I even went so far as buying a watt meter as suggested here as I know I will change props, etc. and I checked my set up to make certain I wasn't over drawing current through the BEC when all servo's were actuated simultaneously. Of course there is no load on the servos from air passing by, but I know I am way under the max draw even at peak current draw.

A friend of mine has been over multiple times and just bought his electric rig, radio set, etc. As I am a little further down the road to understanding he looks at my stuff and determines what he needs to do next. Not that I am an authority on any of it. His airplane is about a week behind mine, but might be ready to fly Saturday too.

Up for a challenge? Take a look at the motor mounting in this kit. http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...h_Electric_ARF . How the heck do you do that? How do you mount the prop, etc.?
yeah, it is a tight fit in there with all four sides of the motor box reinforced - a magnetic-tipped screwdriver will go a long way to help.

Basically you reorient the shaft of the motor so the bit with the wires (the stator) is bolts to the firewall, and the can is in the back and spins freely, with the prop mounted on the shaft peeking through the hole. IT is a relatively common configuration - it seems to be the nature of the outrunner and how it differs from traditional motors - that is hard for new electric flyers to get.

Here's the motor mount on my PZ trojan - same concept.

hope that helps.
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:51 PM
  #7  
idealhobbies
Super Contributor
 
idealhobbies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Milford, Delaware
Posts: 1,564
Default

Originally Posted by groundrushesup View Post
How's that working out for you? I have a AerodriveXp SK Series 35-36 910Kv that I'm considering putting in my T28.
idealhobbies is offline  
Old 08-17-2009, 10:09 PM
  #8  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by idealhobbies View Post
How's that working out for you? I have a AerodriveXp SK Series 35-36 910Kv that I'm considering putting in my T28.
I fly it with either a 10x7 or an 11x5.5 and it is a rocket. Great aerobatic performance - with the 11" prop there is truly unlimited vertical.

I fly my Corsair with the SK3536 and the stock prop - only a slight edge in performance but the efficiency makes it worthwhile - I get about an extra minute from my packs with this motor. I could prop it up to a 10x7 or 10x8 if I wanted and it would work fine, but I like it flying scale as it is.
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 08-18-2009, 03:34 AM
  #9  
idealhobbies
Super Contributor
 
idealhobbies's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Milford, Delaware
Posts: 1,564
Default

Not intending to hijack the thread....

I put one on my Multiplex Gemini and will be turning a 13x6.5 wood prop. The initial numbers look REAL promising.
idealhobbies is offline  
Old 08-20-2009, 05:49 PM
  #10  
Colt187355
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Calif coast
Posts: 24
Default

Okay, I took the Turnigy motor and tried to remove the shaft. First problem is where the heck do I find a micro minature circlip removal tool to fit the spring clip. Seconfd problem I see is if I drop the clip I will never find it, so does anyone know where I coulkd find spares? Then, even without the clip removed I see no way to slide out the shaft. How the heck is that accomplished? I do have a big hammer, vise, and a torch, but I am trying to avoid that method of dissasembly.
Colt187355 is offline  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:23 PM
  #11  
groundrushesup
Super Contributor
 
groundrushesup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 2,338
Default

Originally Posted by Colt187355 View Post
Okay, I took the Turnigy motor and tried to remove the shaft. First problem is where the heck do I find a micro minature circlip removal tool to fit the spring clip. Seconfd problem I see is if I drop the clip I will never find it, so does anyone know where I coulkd find spares? Then, even without the clip removed I see no way to slide out the shaft. How the heck is that accomplished? I do have a big hammer, vise, and a torch, but I am trying to avoid that method of dissasembly.

As far as the circlip goes, I just remove it as gingerly as possible with a pair of angled fine-needle nosed pliers.

the shaft is another thing. It can be a pain. Remove the set screws and put them in a safe spot. I have had success in the past if I heat up the area where the aluminum and the steel of the shaft meet (not too much of course) and then pressing out the shaft using a drill press with a slightly smaller diamter drill bit inserted backwards.

Hope that helps.

GRU
groundrushesup is offline  
Old 08-20-2009, 07:35 PM
  #12  
Colt187355
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Central Calif coast
Posts: 24
Default

Okay, it is a light press fit and I had considered that. Thanks for the advice.
Colt187355 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Reddog
Brushless Motor Construction
2
10-02-2010 06:01 PM
diverdon
Power Systems
14
10-12-2009 05:04 AM
Louis
Power Systems
3
06-20-2009 05:54 AM
humboldt guy
Power Systems
0
08-22-2008 10:02 AM
Flipside11
Micro Sized Electric Helicopters
1
08-06-2007 02:27 AM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Quick Reply: Turnigy Outrunner Shaft Collar


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.

Page generated in 0.11452 seconds with 13 queries