T28 Trojan
#1026
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 54

OH yes!! So right on the shadow and all on the invert. Had I paid closer attention I might have not tried the inference that you were fooling us. I should have known. I do water color art (I am a painter..not an artist) and have had to learn a lot about shadow, shading, and reflection. Ever heard what the definition of an artist is? It's anyone who paints on a sheet of paper that costs $11.00. jim
#1027

I totaled the Trojan last night, it was already held together with glue an tape. This crash has finished her off i think. Fuselage is bent and crumpled so even if glued it back together (again) i actually wouldn't be able to. The propeller has severed one of the aileron cables. All in all its a mess.
I will probably by an f27c stryker pnp, i know the battery from the Trojan will be fine in it, but will the reciever and transmitter be ok?
Hopefully it will be more or less a straight swap, plus my transmitter has elevon mixing.
I will probably by an f27c stryker pnp, i know the battery from the Trojan will be fine in it, but will the reciever and transmitter be ok?
Hopefully it will be more or less a straight swap, plus my transmitter has elevon mixing.
#1028

Bummer on the crash Joe. The Trojan is a lot like a Stryker in the crash department. You'd be surprised how badly they can be banged up, repaired and still fly just fine.
I finally got the new fuse from Horizon for mine, but I've been flying the daylights out of the wonky one. I looked at it yesterday and noticed for the first time that when I crushed the nose on it I even twisted the fuse behind the wing so much that the V stab is nearly an inch out of square with the nose. And it still flies just fine.
Heck the nose got squished so badly that it shortened it. If I had used the stock steering set up instead of a remote servo on the firewall the steering would have been jammed to one side and I would have had to have shortened the control rod to make it work.
Oh well, on to Pudgy II.
I finally got the new fuse from Horizon for mine, but I've been flying the daylights out of the wonky one. I looked at it yesterday and noticed for the first time that when I crushed the nose on it I even twisted the fuse behind the wing so much that the V stab is nearly an inch out of square with the nose. And it still flies just fine.
Heck the nose got squished so badly that it shortened it. If I had used the stock steering set up instead of a remote servo on the firewall the steering would have been jammed to one side and I would have had to have shortened the control rod to make it work.
Oh well, on to Pudgy II.
#1029

It has served me well for over 2 years now. It is a shame, but i want something with a bigger punch. My fuselage was actually 3 pieces of fuselage glued together, the wing was also completely glued on. Half the rudder is homemade after clipping a tree. But this time she's well and truly as dead as a dodo.
I shall save up for a Stryker.
I'm selling a Parkzone Spitifre by the way. No box but i have everything else for it, only flown it about 5 times. Slight kink in the wing but everything else is perfect. The transmitter is also stuck on high rates.... it still isn't very maneuverable though
.
If anyone from the UK wants it pm me.
I shall save up for a Stryker.
I'm selling a Parkzone Spitifre by the way. No box but i have everything else for it, only flown it about 5 times. Slight kink in the wing but everything else is perfect. The transmitter is also stuck on high rates.... it still isn't very maneuverable though

If anyone from the UK wants it pm me.
#1030

I be working on it. I'd be a lot further along if it wasn't for the local Hobby Town. A POS LHS, and the only game in town. How the heck can Lakeland, home of Florida Jets and Top Gun, have no stinking hobby shops. Other then HT, and Frank T's place, there is nothing near by. Closest place is Graves in Orlando. 1hr+ drive one way.
I needed a horizontal stab, as of course they were out. Owner tells me he'll order it on the 28th, and will be in on the 30th no problem. Well no call on the 30th, so I call today. Guess what, it never got ordered as apparently they didn't have an order over $100.00 to place. So maybe they will order on Monday.
I should have just ordered it from Horizon, and should have known better. This is the same place that ordered the prop for my Gee Bee, 58, yes FIFTY EIGHT times before I checked their order number and saw they had been ordering a non existing number
and no one was smart enough to see it and thought because it got canceled it was on back order. I actually ordered a prop from both Tower and Horizon and got them before they even got on the ball and got it coming.
I needed a horizontal stab, as of course they were out. Owner tells me he'll order it on the 28th, and will be in on the 30th no problem. Well no call on the 30th, so I call today. Guess what, it never got ordered as apparently they didn't have an order over $100.00 to place. So maybe they will order on Monday.
I should have just ordered it from Horizon, and should have known better. This is the same place that ordered the prop for my Gee Bee, 58, yes FIFTY EIGHT times before I checked their order number and saw they had been ordering a non existing number
and no one was smart enough to see it and thought because it got canceled it was on back order. I actually ordered a prop from both Tower and Horizon and got them before they even got on the ball and got it coming.
#1031

I know what you mean about Hobbytown. The one here in Orem, UT, sucks, too!! The last time I went in there I walked around about 20 minutes and walked out, the person behind the counter was still BSing with another person about nothing related to the shop of the hobby. I absolutely hate going in there and won't do it anymore. Plus, from where I am it's about a 2 hour drive. I do know that when I lived in Tampa, there were quite a few shops there and I never had any problems with them.
RE: HOBBYTOWN-USA
The ones over in the East Coast of Florida (Central Florida) are great such as the one in Melbourne, Florida (David is the owner) and they have a great selection and the help is very good. At times you have to ask, though.
Carlos

#1035
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 54

Just finished my Trojan yesterday. I modded it by adding flaps. I am hoping the wind stays calm so I can charge the battery and do its first flight. I've only flown the Aeronca, the Slowstick, and now the Trojan. I have spent a lot of time on the Phoenix sim with their T-28. Hope it's real close to the real thing. My second plane and I added flaps. Was a little scary of the unknown a few times but it works fine on the bench. Now onto the field. jim
#1036

Trojan #5 Tabasco Thunder II is flight ready! Here are a few aerial shots taken by a partner of mine this past weekend.
Working on some details before I hit it with a final gloss coat of WBPU.
Pilot is Leslie Nielson! lol
#1037
#1039
jr
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 34

I bought a T-28 off craigslist (my 3rd plane). After a electric 3 channel cub, then about 30 flights on an aileron Trainer, I flew my T-28 with no problems. I just love it. What a great airplane, plenty maneuverable, but slows nicely for landing. I have 5 flights on it now, and am thinking of painting it. After reading this thread, It seems like I would need to strip off all the decals, clean the foam with alcohol, spray a coat or two of minwax water based polycrylic, followed by krylon fuson (several light coats), mask and paint trim colors, then add decals. Does that sound right? I would like to convert mine to a modified Air Force scheme (silver & blue), since I was in the AF for 10 years. Any painting tips would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
John
Austin Tx
Regards,
John
Austin Tx
#1040

I bought a T-28 off craigslist (my 3rd plane). After a electric 3 channel cub, then about 30 flights on an aileron Trainer, I flew my T-28 with no problems. I just love it. What a great airplane, plenty maneuverable, but slows nicely for landing. I have 5 flights on it now, and am thinking of painting it. After reading this thread, It seems like I would need to strip off all the decals, clean the foam with alcohol, spray a coat or two of minwax water based polycrylic, followed by krylon fuson (several light coats), mask and paint trim colors, then add decals. Does that sound right? I would like to convert mine to a modified Air Force scheme (silver & blue), since I was in the AF for 10 years. Any painting tips would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
John
Austin Tx
Regards,
John
Austin Tx
John,
you are on the right track - all I can say is be very ginger removing the decals as it can lift the light skin of foam - and that can be a bit of an eyesore when you do the repaint.
Try using some of that alcohol to get under the decals before you remove them to minimize 'scarring'.
You are a local! Come by and see us at the Hill Country Watthead thread - me and the crew fly in Fredericksburg every weekend and attend a lot of fly-ins in the Austin area.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51997
cheers
GRU
#1041
jr
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 34

Well, I crashed my T-28 after many great sorties, and I was really getting the hang of it. Wish I could say I was hot dogging some new maneuver, but actually I was brain dead and took off with the wrong model selected in my Transmitter. The Ailerons were reversed and the flight lasted to about 30 ft before I pulled power just as the airplane dived inverted straight in. The cowl was in several pieces with large cracks in the biggest part, the motor mount was shattered with the motor about a foot away from the fuselage, the wing had 3 large cracks and broken plastic hold down parts on both front and rear, and the fuselage had several large cracks. Now the good news, the Radio and all electronics, as well as the motor all work fine. I have already repaired the wing and fuselage (Thank god for gorilla glue), I am in the process of repairing the engine mount with epoxy and fiberglass, and the cowl with gorilla glue. However, I ordered a new cowl and engine mount (should have included decals with that order), but will repair mine anyway for backup. One question, what kind of tape do you use to replace the flat white tape on the wing underside (over spar and servo leads).
I have to say I love my T-28, its my favorite and usually makes me look good at the park. It will fly again!!
Regards,
John R
Austin Tx
I have to say I love my T-28, its my favorite and usually makes me look good at the park. It will fly again!!
Regards,
John R
Austin Tx
#1042
jr
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 34

So I flew my repaired T-28 today. It flew well, but took quite a bit of aileron trim to trim out the roll (1/8in deflections at trailing edges of ailerons). It is not a weight issue since it wants to roll away from the repaired wing. It looks like the repaired wing has slightly less washout now. So here is a dumb question. Is there any way to warp a foam wing. I know with Balsa I have used steam to straighten out a slight twist. Will heat or steam take out a slight twist in a foam wing? Otherwise its $35 for a new wing.
Regards,
John R
Austin Tx
Regards,
John R
Austin Tx
#1043

Hot water works wonders on the foam. I just picked up the parts for another one, and it had some UPS rash on it. Strategic application of a stream of hot water and I was able to remove nearly every mark.
With a wing that's warped, do it in multiple steps, heat/bend and hold till cool, recheck, and do it again.
One of the UPS rash items was a snapped and badly bent H stab on mine. Little CA took care of the break, then I used the hot water, two flat pieces of wood and a pair of clamps to realign the stab. Two tries and I had it nailed.
With a wing that's warped, do it in multiple steps, heat/bend and hold till cool, recheck, and do it again.
One of the UPS rash items was a snapped and badly bent H stab on mine. Little CA took care of the break, then I used the hot water, two flat pieces of wood and a pair of clamps to realign the stab. Two tries and I had it nailed.
#1044
jr
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 34

Thanks for that tip. Would steam do the same thing? I really don't want to soak the aileron servo with hot water, and it's glued in so I would prefer not to rip it out. I guess I could tape it up real good, and just run the hot water over the top surface.
JR
JR
#1047

Went old school on my latest. Well kinda, did add E-flite electric retracts.
But used my proven low kv motor with different cell counts to make this one a general putz around bird on 3S with an 11x8x3. Or bump it to 6S and a 9x10 and it becomes a missile. 1+ thrust to weight, 116 prop speed, and draws less then 32 amps.
Really cut it close on the nose gear. The big prop clears by maybe 1/4" on the tire.
Took some real tinkering to get the gear to fit and not hit the wing and still keep the stance level. The mains weren't too bad. I even added wheel tubs to clean it up.
Quite happy with this one, the motor( Mega 600/30/7, 640 kv) is 6.6 oz, using a 50 amp esc with a heat sink, the 15-25 series retracts and larger wheels, and a 3S3700 for the low power set up.
Came out to exactly 49 oz RTF. "Porky III" is ready to go, will hold off on paint till she maidens today.
But used my proven low kv motor with different cell counts to make this one a general putz around bird on 3S with an 11x8x3. Or bump it to 6S and a 9x10 and it becomes a missile. 1+ thrust to weight, 116 prop speed, and draws less then 32 amps.
Really cut it close on the nose gear. The big prop clears by maybe 1/4" on the tire.
Took some real tinkering to get the gear to fit and not hit the wing and still keep the stance level. The mains weren't too bad. I even added wheel tubs to clean it up.
Quite happy with this one, the motor( Mega 600/30/7, 640 kv) is 6.6 oz, using a 50 amp esc with a heat sink, the 15-25 series retracts and larger wheels, and a 3S3700 for the low power set up.
Came out to exactly 49 oz RTF. "Porky III" is ready to go, will hold off on paint till she maidens today.
#1048

Steam would work but it's a little harder to work with, as in keeping it where you want it. For a big area it should work OK. Some tape over the servo should protect it easily.
Is the wing warped down? You want to apply the heat to the side that's compressed to cause the foam to expand.
Is the wing warped down? You want to apply the heat to the side that's compressed to cause the foam to expand.
#1050
jr
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 34

The right wing trailing edge needs to come up on the outer 1/3 of the wing to put in washout to match the other. So it sounds like I need to hold it upside down and put hot water on the underside while twisting. I'll give it a try.
Thanks,
JR
Thanks,
JR