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Ready to try the electric route

Old 09-07-2005, 02:56 PM
  #26  
Geoff_Gino
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Hi CorsairJock

The hatch was incorporated because of the high current flowing in the cct and I did not want to put a heavy duty switch in and I do NOT trust a fuse. Should it blow you will lose all power incuding the rx.

The hatch was carefully cut out and the piece was used for the door, with a hinge at the rear and the one in the front has a removeable pin. Takes about 15 seconds to power up and close the door.

Opens to the rear (which is not prefered) due to constraints in the ESC cable.

Geoff
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Old 09-21-2005, 09:38 AM
  #27  
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CorsairJock,

I'm looking to go electric on either my Top Flt Corsair or my Jamara Corsair which is lighter "I think" but have to admit I simply don't understand all this electric talk.

I'm to the point where I'd just like for someone to suggest a good setup for these planes. Some say for that size setup you must also have an EBEC but others don't?

I just want to go fly and not spend too much so if someone could suggest a nice electric power setup for these planes I'd very much appreciate it and think a few others out there will as well.

Thanks so much

Mike

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Old 09-21-2005, 01:26 PM
  #28  
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I don't know much about the Jamara, but my guess would be that it would be lighter than a Top Flite. The many Top Flite ones that I have seen varied greatly in weight: some weighed up to 12 lbs while others are in the 8 1/2 lb neighborhood (all having retracts). the difference seems to be in the way they werer finished: the 12 lb ones were 'glassed and painted, while the iron on covered ones were more likely to weigh between 8 1/2 ~ 9 lbs.

I did lots of research, and determined the AXI 4130/16 would be a very good choice for my 8 lb Hanger 9 Corsair. Later I learned that this is a VERY popular motor for aircraft in the 8 ~ 10 lb range. So I would recomend that motor, using a 6S Li-Poly pack with somewhere between 4000 ~ 8000 mAh capacity. Prop size should be 14 x 8 minimum, and up to something will will result in a 35 amp draw.

Speed controller should be rated at least 40 amps, and be capable of handling the 6S Li-Poly. It is not recomended by ANYONE that I know to use BEC when using this many cells. BECs work best/ are most efficient when the supplied voltage is closer to the output voltage. Thus, 2 cell BEC is great, 3 cell is OK, and anything over that it becomes 'iffy'. I am using a second Li-Poly pack: 2 cell 1050 mAh which runs thru a regulator to power my onboard radio system.

Lastly, check out the calculator which I mentioned in post 3. It will help you to fine tune your setup, regardless of which motor/ battery pack/ prop setup you decided on.
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Old 09-24-2005, 12:36 AM
  #29  
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Corsair Jock,

I seem to be confusing the issue about EBEC's. Maybe I should say UBEC like another poster mentioned or the BEC's I believe that Greg Covey has talked about. Don't know one from another so do I need one for this setup? Simply put, is it a battery for the receiver?

Also, for an AXI 4130 shouldn't I use a higher amp speed control.

Thanks

Mike
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Old 09-24-2005, 05:40 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
Corsair Jock,

I seem to be confusing the issue about EBEC's. Maybe I should say UBEC like another poster mentioned or the BEC's I believe that Greg Covey has talked about. Don't know one from another so do I need one for this setup? Simply put, is it a battery for the receiver?
BEC is abbreviation for Battery Eliminator Circuitry. Simply stated, it means the need for a seperate battery to power radio reciever and servos is eliminated. The same battery that powers the motor is used to power radio system. This works GREAT for smaller electric powered aircraft, which have lower battery voltage and fewer servos. For an 8+ lb warbird with retracts (and flaps?) it just isn't advisable. In other words, you should use a separate battery pack to power the on-board radio system, just as you would with a fuel powered aircraft.
I don't know what "EBEC" and "UBEC" stand for, nor what they are, so I cannot tell you anything about them.

Originally Posted by [email protected]
Also, for an AXI 4130 shouldn't I use a higher amp speed control.

Thanks

Mike
I suggest that you re-read post 9. My set-up draws 27 amps static at max throttle (which means it is less when the aircraft is airborne). For a heavier aircraft, such as a Top Flite Corsair will most likely be, I would suggest setting it up for about a 35 amp draw. I am using a Jeti 40P, and have over 40 flights with it, no problems. If you intend to push the motor into the high 30s amp range or higher, then you will need a controller with a higher rating. You might ask the others why they are using the higher amp speed controls, as I don't know. Possibly it is because previous to the 40P, most (if not all ) speed controllers in the 40 amp rating range were NOT rated for 6S Li-Poly battery packs). In other words, if one wanted to use 6S Li-Poly, one had to purchase a cotroller with a higher amp rating because they were the only ones rated for 6S. The 40P however IS rated for 6S
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Old 09-24-2005, 06:18 AM
  #31  
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on my 4130/16 and 6S, even with a rather small prop (15*10), I am getting more than 40A static... I use the jeti 77A and a hacker 48A. no problem...
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Old 09-24-2005, 01:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by luc
on my 4130/16 and 6S, even with a rather small prop (15*8), I am getting more than 40A static... I use the jeti 77A and a hacker 48A. no problem...
I for one don't consider a 15*8 a small prop. Most fuel powered 1/8 scale warbirds are using smaller props than that: 14*7 or smaller. If the 15*8 is drawing about 40 amps, maybe a 15* 6 would provide the needed thrust while drawing less than 40 amps. The electric motor calculator (are any of you guys using this?) predicts a current draw of 35 amps with APC 15 *8. My Hanger 9 Corsair has flown just fine with a 14* 6 (and drawing about 19 amps): very good climb-out and capable of large loops. I am using the 14*8 now for a higher top speed, which is really not needed but everyone else seems to think so.

And if one really thinks a 15*8 prop is to small, the obvious solution would be to use a 4130/20 instead of the 4130/16. Same price, same size and weight, different winding. Tha Master Airscrew 3 blade 16*10 would probably work well with one of these.

And again: do some research on this motor and you will find that peak effiency (about 85%) occurs in the 25 amp range when using 6S. I like to push it to about 125% of that for static tests, and would maybe go 150% if I felt the power was needed. Beyond that, read about the ones who are having problems with magnets seperating and hot motors when pushed to far.

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Old 09-24-2005, 06:53 PM
  #33  
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the 4130 accepts more amps..;but you are right not to push it too much. I tested it in 7S giving close to 1000W vs 700W and diodn't see anything better in flight....
I also fried one on 7S. These motors don't like too many amps (60+)
40A+ is still perfect, with good efficiency.
I agree also that if you want less amps better go for the 4120, you will save w<eight...
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:54 PM
  #34  
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OK, time to ammend some of my statements. I previuosly had no knowledge about "UBEC"s and no-one here found the time to post an info link on them, but I just stumbled across an online artical about them: they are 'Super BEC's, which are seperate from the BECs on ESCs. They are capable of running radio gear from a high voltage ( up to 55 volt!) battery pack, and with enough current capacity to safely power larger warbirds with retracts and accesories.
Here is artical:
http://www.rcgroups.com/links/index.php?id=4879
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Old 10-01-2005, 06:33 AM
  #35  
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CorsairJock,

Thanks for the info, I'm just a little slow on the uptake with electrics and forums like this are very helpful. Guess it's like most things in that verybody has there own opinion but that's good also.

I'll stay tuned for more tips on electric flying and with winter coming in AZ. it's about time to head for the park.

Thanks again

Mike
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Old 10-03-2005, 06:46 AM
  #36  
Geoff_Gino
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Hi CorsairJock

My Blue bird went up on Saturday and it still is AWESOME !

Had a mishap with my little Extra though. The ESC overheated and one of the IC's actually moved off the PC board which resulted in a total lack of power and the Rx died. The ESC looks as though it did not actually burn but the loss of supply to the Rx is most disconcerting to say the least.
Perhaps I was pulling to much from the ESC with the new prop on the plane.

Needless to say the little Extra Rx now has it's own batt pack.

Geoff

Last edited by Geoff_Gino; 10-03-2005 at 11:42 AM.
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